Article Contents:
- Advantages of polyurethane over other materials
- Tools and consumables
- Surface preparation for installation
- Marking and Planning Composition
- Cutting techniques for polyurethane elements
- Applying adhesive compositions
- Installing ceiling cornices and skirting boards
- Installing wall moldings and decorative panels
- Installing ceiling rose and dome elements
- Forming internal and external corners
- Sealing joints and final finishing
- Priming before painting
- Painting polyurethane molding
- Decorative painting techniques
- Features of installation in difficult conditions
- Typical mistakes of beginners
- Care for Polyurethane Moldings
- Integrating Lighting into Decoration
- Combining materials in decoration
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusion
Why professional decorators value polyurethane over plaster and foam? This material combines ease of installation, durability in use, and extensive decorative possibilities.Polyurethane moldingsIt has turned the complex art of creating relief decoration into an accessible technology, which any attentive person with basic repair skills can master. Proper preparation, quality materials, and adherence to technological nuances guarantee a result indistinguishable from professional execution.
Advantages of polyurethane over other materials
The polymer base of polyurethane molding ensures a unique combination of strength and low weight. Elements do not exert load on load-bearing structures, are mounted using ordinary adhesive without additional mechanical fastening. The material is completely inert to moisture —decor for bathroomsserves for decades without deformation or loss of appearance.
Polyurethane's temperature stability is impressive — a working range from minus 50 to plus 80 degrees Celsius allows usingfacade elementsin any climatic zone. Unlike plaster, the polymer does not absorb odors, does not support mold or bacterial growth.Polyurethane moldingscan be painted with any water-based or solvent-based paint, expanding design possibilities.
Processability — another strength of the material. Polyurethane can be cut with a standard office knife, does not produce dust, and does not require special tools. Joints of elements are "welded" with a special adhesive, forming a monolithic connection without visually noticeable seams.decorative polyurethane elementsare supplied ready for installation — primed white surfaces, requiring no preliminary preparation.
Tools and consumables
The basic set of tools for installing polyurethane molding is minimal and can be found in any handyman's arsenal. A measuring tape at least three meters long is necessary for accurate measurements — a millimeter error on a three-meter cornice is critical. An 80-100 cm construction level ensures control of horizontals and verticals. A laser level simplifies marking, but is not mandatory.
To cut elements, you will need a miter box — a device that holds the workpiece at a specified angle. Professional miter boxes have a rotating platform with a graduated scale, while budget plastic models are limited to standard angles of 45 and 90 degrees. A hacksaw with fine teeth — ideally a metal hacksaw — ensures a clean cut without chipping. For thin profiles, a sharp office knife with replaceable blades is sufficient.
For finishing, you will need acrylic putty, fine-grit sandpaper (180-220 grit), primer, and paint.
For finishing, you will need acrylic putty, fine-grit sandpaper (180-220 grit), primer, and paint.Molding corner piecesSimplify the creation of interior and exterior corners, eliminating the need for precise 45-degree trimming. Painter's tape protects adjacent surfaces during painting.
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Surface Preparation for Installation
The quality of surface preparation determines the reliability of fixation and the longevity of the decoration. The surface must be strong, dry, clean of contaminants and loose materials. Check the integrity of the finish coating — run a sharp object crosswise and attempt to lift the layer. If the coating is peeling, remove it down to a solid substrate.
Can polyurethane molding be mounted on wallpaper? It is categorically not recommended — the adhesive will bond to the wallpaper layer, not the wall, eventually leading to the entire structure peeling off. Exceptions are dense, paintable vinyl wallpapers adhered with quality adhesive to a perfectly prepared substrate. Even in this case, professionals recommend mounting the decoration on a cleaned wall, then applying wallpaper after installing the molding.
Surface irregularities are compensated by finishing putty. For light moldings, the allowable deviation from flatness is 2-3 mm per meter of length. More significant discrepancies require leveling. After the putty dries, sand the surface with abrasive mesh, vacuum up the dust, and wipe with a damp cloth. Deep-penetration primer strengthens the substrate, reduces absorbency, and improves adhesive bonding.
Temperature and humidity conditions are critical for successful installation. Optimal room temperature is 15–25°C, humidity 40–60%. Molding elements must acclimate to room conditions — leave them in the room for at least 24 hours before installation. This prevents thermal deformation after mounting.
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Marking and composition planning
Careful marking is the foundation of quality results. Start by identifying key points — room corners, ceiling centerline, height marks for wall moldings. Use a laser level or plumb bob to draw vertical lines, and a water or bubble level for horizontal lines. Use a lightly erasable pencil for all marking lines — the ability to adjust will save time.
Forceiling cornicesHorizontal alignment is critical. Even slight inclines are noticeable and create a sense of distorted space. Draw a horizontal line around the room at the height of the cornice. Check the level every 50–70 cm — building structures rarely are perfectly flat.
Wall moldings are marked according to room architectural features. Horizontal profiles are placed 90–100 cm above the floor — the classic height for boiserie panels. Vertical elements divide walls into symmetrical sections, centered relative to furniture or doorways.Decorative panelsAre marked according to the golden section proportions — the height-to-width ratio of 1.618 creates a visually harmonious composition.
Consider the length of standard elements when planning layout.MoldingsTypically supplied in lengths of 2 or 2.4 meters. Calculate the number of joints so they are symmetrically placed and as inconspicuous as possible. Avoid short scraps less than 30 cm — they are difficult to install and visually undesirable.
Technique for Cutting Polyurethane Elements
Correct cutting is half the success of installation. Clean edges ensure tight fitting of elements without gaps. Secure the molding in the saw vise so the working surface is tightly against the side wall of the vise. This guarantees precise cutting angle. For straight joints, cut strictly perpendicular to the profile’s longitudinal axis.
Corner joints require 45-degree cuts. Carefully orient the element in the vise — incorrect positioning will yield a mirror-opposite angle unsuitable for installation. Professionals recommend pre-marking the front face and cutting direction with a pencil. Cut smoothly without jerks or excessive pressure — polyurethane cuts easily; excessive force causes chips and unevenness.
After cutting, inspect the end — it should have no burrs, chips, or unevenness. Remove minor defects with fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. Sand gently with circular motions, avoiding heavy pressure. A perfectly flat end ensures an invisible joint after installation.
For complex relief profiles, use a circular saw with a fine-toothed blade. It ensures a perfectly clean cut without chips, even on delicate ornamentation. If you only have hand tools, cut slowly, checking the cut quality every few centimeters.Carved moldings with ornamentationRequire special care — restoring damaged patterns is nearly impossible.
Applying Adhesive Compounds
Installation adhesive is applied to the back of the element in a continuous zigzag or dotted line. The distance between application points — 5–7 cm for light moldings, 3–4 cm for heavy cornices anddecorative beamsThe adhesive should cover the entire mounting surface but not extend beyond the edges — excess will soil the wall and require cleaning.
For large elements wider than 10 cm, adhesive is additionally applied to the substrate — wall or ceiling. This increases contact area and fixation reliability. Use a notched trowel with 3–5 mm tooth height — it ensures an even layer of optimal thickness. Apply adhesive to an area slightly larger than the mounting element.
End-to-end adhesive is applied in a thin, even layer to both mating ends. Use a narrow brush or 2–3 cm wide trowel. Do not skimp on material at corners — these areas experience maximum mechanical stress during thermal expansion. The adhesive has a unique property — it chemically dissolves a thin surface layer of polyurethane, and upon joining elements, molecular diffusion occurs, creating a monolithic joint.
Open time of the adhesive is a critical parameter. After applying the compound to the surface, wait 1–2 minutes — the adhesive should slightly dry and become tacky. Immediate pressing of the element will cause excessive adhesive extrusion and weaken fixation. Excessive waiting — more than 5–7 minutes — reduces adhesion due to surface film formation. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations — they are indicated on the packaging.
Ceiling cornices and baseboards installation begins from the corner of the room. If pre-made corner elements are used, install them first, then adjust linear profiles. When forming corners by cutting at 45 degrees, start with the most visible wall — usually the surface opposite the entrance. The accuracy of the first corner determines the quality of the entire composition.
Installationof the ceiling corniceAttach the element to the mounting location according to the marking. Check its position with a level — it can still be adjusted now. Press the profile tightly against the ceiling and wall along its entire length. The pressing should be even — use both hands, pressing the element from the center to the edges. Hold the pressure for 20–30 seconds for initial fixation. The adhesive will begin to set, providing temporary hold.
Immediately remove the adhesive protruding from under the cornice using a damp sponge or putty knife. Do not delay cleaning — within 10–15 minutes, the adhesive will begin to polymerize, making removal significantly more difficult. Wipe adjacent surfaces with a damp cloth, removing even the smallest traces. After drying, these spots will become visible when painting.
The next element is mounted flush against the previous one. Apply joint adhesive to the ends of both profiles and wait the time specified by the manufacturer. Attach the second element to the mounting location, aligning it with the first, and press the joint tightly. The adhesive should protrude across the entire surface of the connection — this ensures complete filling of the joint. Hold the joint for 30–40 seconds for initial fixation. Check the alignment of relief and height marks — adjust the position if necessary.
Wall moldings and decorative panels installation
They are installed using the same principle as ceiling moldings, but with specific nuances. Horizontal profiles require perfect accuracy — even a slight tilt is visually noticeable. Use a long level and check horizontal alignment every 40–50 centimeters. If a deviation is detected, correct it immediately — after the adhesive sets, it will be impossible to fix the error without dismantling.
wall moldingsVertical elements are aligned using a plumb bob or laser level. Start mounting from the top and gradually move downward. This allows controlling verticality along the entire length of the profile. If the wall has a slight curvature, distribute the deviation evenly — do not attempt to rigidly fix a straight element onto an uneven surface, as this will result in gaps.
Decorative panels made of moldings
They are assembled like a frame — first, the top and bottom horizontal elements are mounted, then the vertical sides. Corners are formed by cutting at 45 degrees or usingpre-made corner elements. The second option is significantly simpler for beginners and guarantees perfect corner quality.The second option is significantly simpler for beginners and guarantees perfect corner quality.
Inside the frames, you can placedecorative inserts, sockets, carved elements. They are mounted after installing the main moldings using the same mounting adhesive. Center the inserts with maximum precision — asymmetry in decoration is especially noticeable and spoils the overall composition impression. Use a tape measure and level even for small elements measuring 5–10 centimeters.
Ceiling sockets and dome elements installation
Ceiling rosette— the central decorative element surrounding a chandelier or light fixture. Determining the exact center of the ceiling — the first and most important step. Measure the length and width of the room, divide by half, and mark the central point. Check accuracy by measuring diagonals from the corners — they must be equal.
If the socket is being installed on an already mounted chandelier, turn off the power, dismantle the light fixture. Feed the electrical cable through the central hole of the socket. Apply mounting adhesive to the back of the element in an even layer, avoiding the area around the central hole — adhesive must not contact the electrical wiring.
Attach the socket to the ceiling, centering it relative to the marking. Press the element tightly against the base, paying special attention to the edges. Sockets usually have significant surface area, and ensuring even pressure across the entire surface is difficult. Use an assistant or temporary supports — a wooden plank with a soft pad, resting on the floor. Hold pressure until the adhesive sets — 5–10 minutes depending on the element size.
Heavy sockets with a diameter over 50 centimeters require additional mechanical fixation with screws. Pre-drill holes in the socket with a 3–4 mm diameter, arranged symmetrically around the circumference. After applying adhesive and pressing against the ceiling, fix the element with screws, slightly depressing the heads. After 24 hours, when the adhesive has fully polymerized, the screws can be removed and the holes filled with putty.
Forming internal and external corners
Internal room corners are formed by joining two elements cut at a 45-degree angle. Correct orientation of the cut is critical — an error will result in a gap, which is difficult to correct. Remember the rule: for an internal corner, the cut on the front side of the profile is longer than on the back. Use a miter gauge to precisely position the element before cutting.
External corners are less common — on protruding architectural elements, columns, pilasters. Here, the ratio of cut lengths is reversed — the front side is shorter than the back. Check the accuracy of the cut by placing two unglued pieces together — they should form a right angle without gaps. Minor discrepancies can be corrected using sandpaper wrapped around a block.
Pre-made corner elementseliminate the need for precise cutting. They have two joint surfaces at a right angle, to which linear profiles are fitted with a straight cut. This solution is ideal for beginners and guarantees perfect corner quality. Install the corner element first, then the adjacent linear profiles.
Non-standard angles — not 90 degrees — require a special approach. Measure the actual angle with a protractor, divide it in half — this will be the cutting angle for each element. Most miter gauges do not have graduated scales for non-standard angles, so a miter saw with an adjustable angle or manual marking and cutting will be required. Professionals use special angle gauges and protractor miter gauges.
Joint sealing and final finishing
After the mounting adhesive has fully dried — usually 24 hours — inspect all element joints. Small gaps are inevitable even with quality installation — material thermal expansion and microscopic surface irregularities create gaps up to 1 millimeter wide. Fill them with acrylic putty, using a narrow putty knife or even your finger in a rubber glove.
The technique for filling joints is simple — apply putty generously, pressing it firmly into the joint. Remove excess with a damp sponge, creating a smooth transition from one element to another. Work carefully — putty on the front surface of the molding will create stains when painted. Wipe adjacent areas with a clean damp cloth, removing even the smallest traces.
After the putty has dried — 4–6 hours — inspect the joints under side lighting. This angle reveals the smallest imperfections, invisible under direct light. Sand any detected defects with fine-grit sandpaper (220–240 grit), wrapped around a block or sponge. Movements should be light and circular — aggressive sanding will damage the molding surface.
Holes from screws used for temporary fixation of heavy elements are filled with the same acrylic putty. Apply the material with a slight mound — the putty shrinks as it dries. After it is fully dry, sand it flush with the surface. Properly treated holes become completely invisible after painting.
Priming before painting
Despite the fact thatpolyurethane moldingsAlthough supplied primed, it is recommended to apply an additional layer of primer before painting. This is especially important for filled areas — putty has a different absorption capacity than polyurethane, and without priming it will create stains when painted. Use acrylic primer for plastics — it provides excellent adhesion of paint to polymer surfaces.
Apply the primer with a brush or roller in a thin, even layer. For relief elements with deep ornamentation, a brush is preferable — it penetrates into all recesses of the pattern. A roller is convenient for smooth, wide surfacescornices and skirting boards. Avoid drips and runs — they will become visible after painting.
The drying time for the primer is 2–4 hours depending on the temperature and humidity in the room. Check readiness for painting by touch — the surface should be dry and not stick to your fingers. Applying paint too early on an incompletely dried primer will result in coating defects — bubbles, peeling, uneven gloss.
Is it necessary to prime polyurethane before painting if the elements are already primed at the factory? Professionals recommend doing so for several reasons. First, during installation, the factory primer partially wears off at points of contact with hands and tools. Second, an additional layer improves paint adhesion and reduces paint consumption. Third, it creates a uniform base for painting moldings and filled joints.
Painting polyurethane moldings
The choice of paint depends on the conditions of use and desired visual effect. Water-based acrylic paints — a universal option for residential spaces. They are virtually odorless, dry quickly, and form a strong, breathable coating. Alkyd enamels create a smoother surface with a slight gloss, but require good ventilation during application and have a longer drying time.
Forof bathroom and kitchen decorFor areas with high humidity — choose moisture-resistant paints with antimicrobial additives. They prevent mold and mildew growth in humid conditions. Latex formulations form an elastic film resistant to abrasion and washing — optimal for elements located in areas of contact with furniture or hands.
SmoothMoldings and cornicesPaint with a short-pile roller — it creates an even coating without visible texture.Carved elements with ornamentationrequire a brush — only it penetrates into all recesses of the pattern. Use natural-bristle brushes for alkyd paints, synthetic brushes for acrylics.
Apply the first coat thinly and semi-transparently. It creates a base for the final coating and reveals surface defects not visible on a white primer. After the first coat dries, inspect the decoration under side lighting. Any defects — minor scratches, uneven putty — can still be corrected with light sanding. The second coat creates the final color and texture.
Decorative painting techniques
Gilding — a classic technique for giving moldings a luxurious appearance. Modern materials have simplified the process — instead of real leaf gold, use acrylic paints with metallic pigment. The technique is simple: paint the element in a base color — usually white or ivory — then, after drying, apply gold paint to the raised parts of the relief using a soft sponge or a short-pile brush.
Patina creates an effect of noble antiquity. The base layer is light, the patina is dark. After the base dries, apply the dark paint into all recesses of the relief, wiping away excess with a damp cloth, leaving the dark tone only in the depths of the ornament. This emphasizes volume and creates visual depth. Apply a matte varnish to protect the decorative coating.
The metal effect is achieved with special paints containing metallic pigment. Silver, bronze, copper, steel — the range of shades is vast. Metallic paints require flawless surface preparation — even minor imperfections will be visible. Apply them in thin layers, carefully blending the edges. Two or three thin layers create a better finish than one thick layer.
Gradient color transitions — a modern technique creating volume and dynamism. Apply the base color to the entire element, then blend a darker or lighter shade with a sponge from the edges toward the center or vice versa. The technique requires artistic taste and experience, but the result is impressive — the molding gains sculptural expressiveness.
Features of installation in difficult conditions
Uneven walls — a common problem in old buildings. If the height difference exceeds 5 millimeters per meter of length, installation requires a special approach. Use shims at sagging areas — thin strips of the same polyurethane, cardboard, or plastic. Apply a thicker layer of adhesive to compensate for unevenness. For significant defects, it is better to level the wall — it is simpler and more reliable than attempting to compensate for curvature during installation.
Angles deviating from 90 degrees require individual fitting of each joint. Measure the actual angle with a protractor, divide it in half — this will be the cutting angle. Cut the elements with a 1–2 millimeter allowance, try them without adhesive, adjust until perfect fit. Only after achieving a tight joint apply adhesive and install permanently.
Rooms with high humidity — bathrooms, saunas, pools — require special adhesive compositions. Use moisture-resistant mounting adhesive based on MS-polymers or polyurethane. Ordinary acrylic adhesives soften under constant moisture and lose strength. Additionally, treat the joints of elements with silicone sealant — this prevents water penetration.
Installation in unheated rooms or on facades requires frost-resistant adhesive compositions. Ordinary mounting adhesives lose elasticity at negative temperatures, leading to peeling of the decoration during structural thermal expansion.facade elementsare mounted on special adhesives that retain their properties in the range from minus 50 to plus 80 degrees.
Typical mistakes of beginners
Insufficient surface preparation — the main cause of decoration peeling. Dust, grease, and wallpaper residue reduce adhesive bond to zero. Spend time on thorough cleaning and priming — it is an investment in the longevity of the result. Check the strength of the substrate — weak, crumbling surfaces require reinforcement or complete removal down to a strong layer.
Hastiness during installation leads to misalignment of elements. Adhesive requires time to set — follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Attempting to speed up the process by installing the next element before the previous one is fixed results in a skewed composition. It is better to spend an extra hour on quality installation than to redo the entire work.
Ignoring material temperature adaptation causes deformation after installation. Elements brought from a cold warehouse into a warm room contract as they heat up, creating gaps at joints. Conversely, cold profiles expand, pushing adjacent elements. Allow the molding to acclimate in the installation room for at least 24 hours before starting work.
Incorrect adhesive selection is a common mistake. Universal mounting adhesives are not always suitable for polyurethane. Use specialized compositions recommended by the decorative element manufacturer. Saving on adhesive results in the need for a full redo after several months. Quality adhesive ensures fixation for decades.
Care for polyurethane molding
Regular dust cleaning is the foundation for maintaining appearance. Use a soft brush, dry cloth, or vacuum cleaner with a soft attachment.Relief elements with ornamentationAccumulate dust in recesses — vacuum cleaner is ideal for their cleaning. Perform dry cleaning once a month to prevent dirt buildup.
Wet cleaning is permissible for painted elements. Use slightly damp cloth with mild detergent — neutral soap solution or special plastic cleaners. Avoid abrasive cleaners and stiff sponges — they scratch the paint surface. After wet cleaning, wipe the decor with a dry cloth to remove moisture residue.
What to do if elements are damaged? Minor chips and scratches are filled with acrylic putty, then touched up to match the base color. Serious damage requires replacing the affected section or entire element. Polyurethane easily disassembles — carefully cut the adhesive seams with a sharp knife, remove the damaged fragment, clean the surface, and install the new one.
Polyurethane molding does not require periodic repainting — quality paint lasts 10-15 years without losing appearance. If you wish to change the interior’s color scheme, the decor can be repainted without removal. Lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to improve adhesion, prime, and apply new paint. The technology is the same as for initial painting.
Integration of lighting into decor
Hidden backlighting turns molding into a functional light source. LED strips are placed behindceiling cornices, creating a floating ceiling effect. For this, the cornice is mounted with a 5-10 cm gap from the ceiling plane. The LED strip is adhered to the wall above the cornice, and light reflects off the ceiling and diffuses into the room.
The color of backlighting determines the space’s atmosphere. Warm white creates a cozy, relaxing ambiance — ideal for bedrooms and living rooms. Neutral white is closest to natural daylight — optimal for kitchens and work areas. Cool white gives a modern, technological feel. Multi-color RGB backlighting with a remote control allows changing the mood with a single button press.
Wiring is laid before installing molding. Cut grooves in the wall for concealed cable placement, install power blocks in accessible service areas. If backlighting installation was not planned initially, use cable channels concealed behind cornices. Quality lighting integration requires electrician involvement — safety comes before aesthetics.
Wiring is run before installing moldings. Cut grooves into the wall for concealed cable placement, install power blocks in accessible service areas. If lighting installation was not initially planned, use concealed cable channels behind soffits. Proper lighting integration requires an electrician — safety comes before aesthetics.
Combining materials in decor
Can you combinepolyurethane elementswithwoodenin one interior? Not only can you, but you must to create multi-level compositions.Carved Wooden AppliquésAgainst smooth polyurethane moldings, they create a visual contrast of textures. The main condition — color harmony. Paint all elements in one tone, and material differences will become imperceptible.
MDF profilescombine with polyurethane when creating compositions for subsequent painting. MDF is cheaper than solid wood, but after priming and painting, it visually indistinguishable from wood. Use MDF for long, straight elements —baseboards, cornices, moldings. Use polyurethane for complex relief details and elements exposed to high humidity.
Gypsum and polyurethane are rarely combined due to differences in installation technology and element weight. However, during restoration of historical interiors, where existing gypsum molding is supplemented with new elements, polyurethane is the optimal choice. Modern casting technologies allow creating polyurethane replicas of gypsum originals, visually indistinguishable but significantly superior in performance characteristics.
Metallic elements — wrought iron appliqués, bronze outlets — effectively combine with painted polyurethane molding. The contrast between matte paint and shiny metal creates a luxurious effect. Metallic decor is mounted over already installed and painted molding using specialized metal adhesives or mechanical fasteners — concealed decorative covers with self-tapping screws.
Frequently asked questions
Can polyurethane molding be installed in winter in an unheated room? No, installation must be performed at a temperature no lower than +10 degrees. Adhesive will not set at low temperatures, and elements will detach after temporary fastening.
How long does cornice installation take in a standard room? For a 4x5 meter room with ceiling cornice installed around the perimeter, it will take 3-4 hours of work, including preparation and cutting elements.
Can polyurethane be painted with oil-based paints? Yes, but it is not recommended. Oil-based paints take a long time to dry, have a strong odor, and yellow over time. Acrylic compositions surpass them in all parameters.
Is special adhesive for polyurethane required, or will universal mounting adhesive suffice? Use specialized polyurethane adhesive. Universal adhesives do not provide sufficient strength and durability of the joint.
Can stucco be mounted on a stretch ceiling? No, the fabric cannot support the weight of the elements. The cornice is mounted on the wall below the level of the stretch ceiling, visually creating the effect of ceiling decoration.
How to remove polyurethane stucco without damaging the wall? Carefully cut the adhesive seams with a sharp knife, heat the element with a construction hairdryer to soften the adhesive, then remove it. Scrape off any remaining adhesive with a putty knife.
Is it necessary to remove old paint before repainting? No, if the coating is strong and does not flake. Light sanding is sufficient to improve adhesion of the new paint.
Can polyurethane moldings be bent for arch decoration? No, cast polyurethane is not flexible. For arched openings, use special flexible profiles or select elements with an appropriate curvature radius.
Conclusion
Installing polyurethane stucco yourself is a task manageable by anyone with basic repair skills. The material tolerates minor mistakes, is easy to work with, and does not require professional tools. Key factors for success: thorough surface preparation, accurate marking, use of quality adhesives, and observing technological pauses for adhesive setting.
Polyurethane ItemsCombines accessible cost, ease of installation, and excellent performance characteristics. Moisture resistance, temperature stability, and durability make this material the optimal choice for decorating residential and public spaces. A wide range of profiles, ornaments, and sizes allows you to realize any design concept — from classic luxury to modern minimalism.
STAVROS offers a full range ofpolyurethane moldingfor interior and facade.Cornices, moldings, baseboards, rosettes, decorative elementsof the highest quality at affordable prices. Professional consultants will help calculate the required amount of material, select adhesive compositions, and offer ready-made compositional solutions. Detailed installation instructions and video tutorials will ensure successful self-installation. Create dream interiors with materials from STAVROS — quality proven over time.
