Ceiling molding and polyurethane ceiling molding under a chandelier: how to avoid mistakes with diameter and spacing

You look at the ceiling and realize: something is missing. The chandelier is hanging, the light is on, but the composition seems incomplete, like a sentence without a period. What creates this lack of closure? The absence of framing. A bare chandelier on a white ceiling is functional but not beautiful. Yet, just addmolding on the ceilingaround the light fixture—and the picture changes. The chandelier becomes the compositional center, the ceiling gains architecture, and the room acquires character.

But here the questions begin. What diameter rosette should you choose? How to correlate the size of the molding with the size of the chandelier? What happens if you make a mistake—if the rosette turns out too large or too small? How to correctly calculate the distance between elements if you plan not just one rosette, but a composition of several? And most importantly—how to avoid typical mistakes that turn elegant decor into a visual disaster?

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Why a Rosette Under a Chandelier is Not Just Decoration, but a Necessity

Let's start with the basics: why do you even need a ceiling rosette? Isn't it enough to just hang a chandelier on a hook and call it a day?

From a functional standpoint, a rosette solves a practical problem: it conceals the mounting point of the light fixture. The junction box, wires, hook, gap in the ceiling around the mounting hole—all of this is unsightly.Polyurethane rosette for chandelierscovers these technical details, creating a neat frame.

But the aesthetic function is much more important. The rosette visually enlarges the chandelier, makes it more significant, turning it into the dominant element of the space. The eye first fixes on the rosette (a large light spot on the ceiling), then on the chandelier at its center. A compositional hierarchy is created: background (ceiling) — frame (rosette) — object (chandelier). This is a logic of perception that works on a subconscious level.

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Psychology of Proportions

The human eye instantly reads proportions and assesses their harmony. If a chandelier with a diameter of 60 cm hangs on a ceiling without a frame, it appears small, lost in the space. Add a rosette with a diameter of 90 cm — and the chandelier visually grows, becomes the center of attention, a focal point.

But if the rosette is too large (for example, 150 cm for the same 60 cm chandelier), the opposite effect occurs: the rosette overwhelms the chandelier, becomes an independent massive object that dominates. The chandelier gets lost inside this frame, looks like a weak accent.

If the rosette is too small (for example, 40 cm for a 60 cm chandelier), it looks insufficient, like a napkin placed under the chandelier. It doesn't create a frame, doesn't enhance perception, but only adds visual noise.

Harmony arises when proportions are observed. And here there are clear mathematical ratios, tested by centuries of architectural practice.

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The Golden Rule of Diameter: The Formula for the Perfect Rosette

The first and main parameter is the diameter of the rosette relative to the diameter of the chandelier. There is a professional rule used by interior designers and decorators all over the world.

The diameter of the rosette should be 1.2 to 2 times the diameter of the chandelier.

Let's examine this formula in more detail.

Measuring the Chandelier Correctly

The first step is to accurately measure the diameter of your chandelier. But which diameter exactly is meant? Chandeliers can be multi-tiered, with arms of different lengths, with decorative elements that protrude at different distances from the axis.

Measure the diameter at the widest part of the chandelier. Usually, this is the middle tier (if the chandelier is three-tiered) or the upper tier (if it's two-tiered). Take a tape measure, measure the distance from the outermost point of one arm to the outermost point of the opposite arm through the center.

For example, you have a classic chandelier with six arms. The upper tier (the body with the mount) has a diameter of 30 cm. The middle tier (arms with shades) is spread out to 70 cm. The lower decorative element (tassel, ball) is 15 cm. Which diameter to take? The largest one — 70 cm.

Applying the Formula

So, your chandelier has a diameter of 70 cm. Apply the rule:

• Minimum rosette diameter: 70 × 1.2 = 84 cm

• Optimal rosette diameter: 70 × 1.5 = 105 cm

• Maximum rosette diameter: 70 × 2 = 140 cm

What do these numbers mean?

84 cm (coefficient 1.2) — this is the minimum framing that creates a visual connection between the chandelier and the ceiling, but does not make the rosette dominant. Suitable for small rooms (12-16 sq.m), where a large rosette would overload the ceiling.

105 cm (coefficient 1.5) — a classic balance that gives a harmonious ratio. The rosette creates a full-fledged frame, enhances the perception of the chandelier, but does not overwhelm it. This is a universal choice for most situations.

140 cm (coefficient 2) — the maximum framing that turns the rosette into an independent architectural element. The chandelier inside such a rosette looks intimate, the rosette dominates. Suitable for high ceilings (from 3.5 m) and large rooms (from 30 sq.m), where monumentality is needed.

Adjustment by room area

The diameter formula is the basis, but not an absolute. The area and height of the room must be taken into account.

For small rooms (10-15 sq.m, ceiling height 2.5-2.7 m): use a coefficient of 1.2-1.3. A large rosette will visually reduce the space, creating a feeling of clutter.

For medium rooms (16-25 sq.m, height 2.7-3.0 m): use a coefficient of 1.4-1.6. This is the optimal ratio for standard living spaces.

For large rooms (25-40 sq.m, height 3.0-3.5 m): use a coefficient of 1.6-1.8. The rosette should be large enough not to get lost on a large ceiling.

For huge halls (40+ sq.m, height 3.5+ m): use a coefficient of 1.8-2.0. Monumentality is appropriate here, the rosette can and should be impressive.

The One-Fifth Rule

There is another guideline that helps verify the choice: the diameter of the rosette should not exceed 1/5 of the width of the room.

If a room is 4 meters wide (400 cm), the maximum rosette diameter: 400 / 5 = 80 cm. If you choose a 120 cm rosette for such a room — it will look disproportionately huge and overwhelming.

This rule is especially important for elongated rooms. If a room is 3 × 6 meters, base your calculation on the shorter side (3 m = 300 cm). Maximum rosette diameter: 300 / 5 = 60 cm. Even if the chandelier is 50 cm in diameter, the rosette should not exceed 60 cm, otherwise the spatial proportions will be disrupted.

Spacing between elements: when there is more than one rosette

Let's complicate the task. What if you're planning not one rosette, but several? For example, three chandeliers over a dining table. Or five lights in a row in a long gallery. How to calculate the distance between rosettes so the composition looks harmonious?

The rule of visual breathing

Rosettes should not touch each other. There should be a gap between them — 'air' — which allows each rosette to be perceived as a separate element, yet all of them should be read as a single group.

Optimal distance between the edges of adjacent rosettes: 0.5-1 times the rosette diameter.

This means: if each rosette's diameter is 60 cm, the distance between them should be 30-60 cm (edge to edge, not center to center).

Why this specific ratio? If the distance is less than 0.5 times the diameter (e.g., 20 cm between 60 cm rosettes), they visually merge, lose individuality, and create a sense of crowding. If the distance is more than 1 times the diameter (e.g., 80 cm between 60 cm rosettes), they break apart into separate objects, fail to form a group, and look disjointed.

Calculating the spacing between centers

For practical installation, it's more convenient to work with the distance between rosette centers (rather than between edges). Let's translate the rule:

Distance between centers = rosette diameter + gap between edges

If the rosette diameter is 60 cm, and the optimal gap between edges is 30-60 cm, then the distance between centers is:

• Minimum: 60 + 30 = 90 cm

• Optimal: 60 + 45 = 105 cm

• Maximum: 60 + 60 = 120 cm

This is the value to use when marking the ceiling before installation.

Symmetry in composition

If there are more than two rosettes, symmetry is important. For three rosettes in a row: the middle one should be exactly centered, with the side ones equidistant from it. For five rosettes: the middle one centered, with two pairs symmetrically on either side.

Check symmetry not only along the axis of the rosette arrangement but also relative to the walls. If rosettes are aligned along a long wall, they should be equidistant from both short walls. Any asymmetry will be noticeable and create a sense of error.

Grouping with an odd number

In design, a rule applies: an odd number of objects is perceived as more harmonious than an even number. Three rosettes look better than two. Five is better than four. Why? Because in an odd group, there is a central element around which the side elements are symmetrically arranged. This creates visual stability.

If you have an even number of light fixtures (e.g., four lamps over a long table), you can either use four rosettes (but then you need to create two pairs, each perceived as a subgroup), or forgo rosettes for the outermost fixtures, leaving them only for the two central ones.

Types of ornamentation and their influence on size selection

Polyurethane ceiling rosettesRosettes differ not only in size but also in the complexity of their ornamentation. And the ornament influences the perception of size.

Simple smooth rosettes

A rosette with minimal relief — a few concentric circles, simple geometric lines — appears visually compact. Even if its diameter is 80 cm, it doesn't seem massive because the relief is delicate and doesn't create deep shadows.

Such rosettes suit modern interiors, minimalism, and Scandinavian style. They create a frame but do not dominate or draw excessive attention to themselves.

Rule for simple rosettes: you can use a larger diameter (coefficient 1.6-2.0 relative to the chandelier diameter) because they are visually light.

Medium-complexity rosettes

An ornament with botanical motifs—stylized leaves, flowers, and interweavings—creates a medium level of visual density. Such rosettes are more noticeable, attract the eye, but do not overwhelm.

Suitable for neoclassical interiors, classic eclecticism, and French style. They create a balance between decorativeness and restraint.

Rule for medium rosettes: use the standard coefficient (1.4-1.6), and the rosette will be perceived as harmonious.

High-complexity rosettes

Baroque rosettes with lush ornamentation—figurative scrolls, acanthus leaves, putti, cartouches—are visually heavy and massive. Even with a diameter of 70 cm, such a rosette appears larger due to the richness of details.

Suitable for palace interiors, luxurious classicism, Empire style, and Baroque. They should dominate and be the center of the composition.

Rule for complex rosettes: use a smaller coefficient (1.2-1.4), otherwise the rosette will visually overwhelm everything around. A large Baroque rosette with a diameter of 120 cm is no longer just a chandelier surround but an independent work of art on the ceiling.

Ceiling height: a corrective factor

The rosette diameter should be correlated not only with the chandelier and room area but also with the ceiling height. The higher the ceiling, the larger the rosette can be.

Low ceilings (2.4–2.6 m)

With low ceilings, a large rosette creates a looming effect, visually further reducing the space. Use compact rosettes with a diameter of 40-60 cm even for medium-sized chandeliers. It is better to choose rosettes with simple relief, light-colored, almost blending with the ceiling.

An alternative is to forgo the rosette in favor of other ceiling decor elements: a thinof the ceiling cornicearound the perimeter, which visually raises the ceiling but does not create a central mass.

Standard ceilings (2.7–3.0 m)

This is the optimal height for most rosettes. A diameter of 50-90 cm looks harmonious, does not loom, and does not get lost. Medium-complexity ornaments and experiments with shape (oval, polygonal rosettes) can be used.

High ceilings (3.0-3.5 m)

High ceilings require larger rosettes; otherwise, the decor gets lost. A diameter of 80-120 cm looks appropriate. Complex ornaments, multi-tiered constructions (rosette + additional molding ring around it), and contrasting colors (e.g., a gold rosette on a white ceiling) can be used.

Very high ceilings (3.5+ m)

In rooms with ceilings above 3.5 m (old tenement houses, mansions, public buildings), a rosette with a diameter of less than 100 cm simply won't be visible from the floor. Monumental rosettes of 120-180 cm with rich ornamentation and multi-layered structure are appropriate here.

You can use not one rosette but a composition: a central large rosette + several smaller ones around the ceiling perimeter, connected by moldings into a unified system. Such aPlaster ceilingbecomes a work of art.

Color and its influence on size perception

Even with a correctly calculated diameter, a rosette may appear larger or smaller depending on its color.

White rosette on a white ceiling

A classic solution that creates a monochrome relief. The rosette is perceived as volume but not as a contrasting object. This solution visually lightens the rosette—even a large one (100 cm diameter) does not seem heavy.

Suitable for most interiors, especially if the walls and ceiling are light, and the chandelier is also white or transparent (crystal).

Colored rosette on a white ceiling

A contrasting solution that makes the rosette dominant. Gold, silver, black, or colored rosettes on a white background are an accent that attracts maximum attention.

Such a rosette is perceived as larger than its actual size. A gold rosette with a diameter of 70 cm is visually equivalent to a white one of 90 cm. Consider this when choosing: if you plan a contrasting color, take a rosette 20-30% smaller than the calculated diameter.

Rosette in the color of the ceiling

If the ceiling is colored (e.g., soft blue, peach, light gray), the rosette can be painted the same color. This creates a delicate volumetric decor that is read as relief but not contrast.

Such a rosette is visually even more compact than a white one on white. Larger diameters can be used without the risk of overloading the ceiling.

Technical parameters: hole diameter and relief depth

In addition to the outer diameter, the rosette has two other important parameters.

Central hole diameter

In the center of the rosette is a hole for wire exit and chandelier mounting. Standard hole diameter: 60-100 mm. This is sufficient for most chandeliers.

But if your chandelier is mounted on a thick, massive rod (120-150 mm in diameter), the standard hole is insufficient. You will either have to widen the hole (polyurethane rosettes are easy to cut) or choose a rosette with a larger hole (120-150 mm).

Check the diameter of the chandelier's mounting rod before purchasing the rosette. Measure the upper decorative cup of the chandelier (it covers the mounting) — its diameter must be larger than the rosette's hole diameter so that the cup overlaps the hole and hides the wires.

Relief Depth

The rosette's relief can be shallow (2-5 mm — for simple geometric patterns) or deep (10-20 mm — for complex Baroque patterns with a multi-layered structure).

Relief depth affects the play of light and shadow. With side lighting (e.g., from wall sconces), deep relief creates expressive shadows, making the rosette look more voluminous and dramatic. With frontal lighting (ceiling light), shadows are minimal, and the relief is perceived subtly.

For high ceilings (from 3 m), choose rosettes with deep relief — they are more visible from below. For low ceilings (up to 2.7 m) — choose shallow relief to avoid creating an effect of an overhanging mass.

Installation: where to place the rosette relative to the chandelier

It might seem obvious: the rosette in the center of the ceiling, the chandelier in the center of the rosette. But there are nuances.

Exact center of the room

If the room is a regular rectangular shape, the center is determined by the intersection of the diagonals. Measure the diagonals from the corners — the point of their intersection is the geometric center. This is where the center of the rosette should be.

But what if the room has a non-standard shape (L-shaped, with niches, a bay window)? Then the geometric center may not coincide with the visual one. The visual center is the point perceived as the middle of the main living area. For example, in a living room with a bay window, the visual center is above the sofa and coffee table area, not in the geometric middle of the room, which may fall in a walkway area.

Rule: for non-standard rooms, place the rosette in the visual center, above the main functional area.

Offset of the chandelier from the center of the rosette

Sometimes the hook for the chandelier is not installed exactly in the center of the ceiling (a common mistake by builders). Moving the hook is difficult and expensive. Can the rosette be placed to compensate for the offset?

Yes, but with limitations. If the offset is minimal (up to 3-5 cm), the rosette can hide it — simply place the rosette so that the chandelier is in its center, even if the rosette itself is slightly offset from the geometric center of the ceiling. On small rosettes (diameter up to 70 cm), such an offset is unnoticeable.

If the offset is significant (10+ cm), the rosette will not hide it. Then either move the hook or abandon the rosette in favor of other decorative options (e.g., a frame of moldings around the chandelier, which can be placed asymmetrically).

Height of rosette installation

The rosette is glued directly to the ceiling; it does not hang in the air. But it is important at what stage of renovation it is installed.

Optimally: install the rosette after the final ceiling finishing (painting, whitewashing), but before hanging the chandelier. First, prepare the ceiling, then glue the rosette, then paint the rosette together with the ceiling or separately (if a contrasting color is needed), and only after the paint has completely dried, hang the chandelier.

If you hang the chandelier before installing the rosette, you will have to remove it to install the rosette, which adds extra steps.

Mistakes that ruin the beauty: what definitely not to do

Even knowing all the rules, mistakes can be made. Let's look at the most common ones.

First mistake: the rosette is three or more times larger than the chandelier

You bought a huge Baroque rosette with a diameter of 120 cm and hung a miniature chandelier with a diameter of 40 cm under it. Ratio 3:1. The chandelier gets lost inside the rosette, looking like a small brooch on a huge medallion. The rosette dominates, and the chandelier becomes secondary.

How to fix: replace the chandelier with a larger one (60-80 cm in diameter) or replace the rosette with a smaller one (60-80 cm in diameter).

Second mistake: the rosette is smaller than the chandelier

The opposite situation: a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm, a rosette of 50 cm. The chandelier extends beyond the edges of the rosette; the rosette does not create a frame but looks like a random element stuck to the ceiling. The logic of the composition is broken.

How to fix: replace the ceiling medallion with a larger one (100-120 cm in diameter).

Mistake three: the ceiling medallion doesn't match the style

A classic Baroque ceiling medallion with putti and scrolls under a modern minimalist chandelier made of chrome metal and glass is a stylistic conflict. Or vice versa: a simple geometric medallion under a luxurious multi-tiered crystal chandelier.

How to fix: choose a ceiling medallion that matches the chandelier's style. A classic chandelier requires a classic medallion. A modern chandelier requires a simple geometric medallion or even forgoing a medallion in favor of other elementsof ceiling decor with molding.

Mistake four: the ceiling medallion is not painted

You glued the ceiling medallion to the ceiling and left it unpainted. Polyurethane medallions are sold primed—they are matte, grayish-white. Without final painting, they look unfinished, cheap, and sloppy.

How to fix: be sure to paint the ceiling medallion after installation. Use high-quality acrylic paint, apply 2-3 coats for even coverage. The color should either match the ceiling or be contrasting (if intended), but it must be painted.

Mistake five: the ceiling medallion is glued crookedly

The center of the ceiling medallion is offset relative to the center of the ceiling or chandelier. This is noticeable and creates a sense of error and sloppiness. Asymmetry is acceptable only if it is intended as a design technique, but then it must be radical and obvious. A slight accidental offset (5-10 cm) looks like a defect.

How to fix: carefully mark the center before installation. Use a laser level, stretched strings, geometric calculations. Check the markings three times before gluing the ceiling medallion.

Combining with other elements of ceiling decor

A ceiling medallion does not necessarily have to be the only element on the ceiling. It can be combined with other types ofCeiling moldings, creating complex compositions.

Ceiling medallion + ceiling cornice

Classic scheme:ceiling cornice made of polyurethanearound the perimeter of the room, with a ceiling medallion in the center under the chandelier. The cornice creates a frame for the ceiling, the medallion is the central accent. They should be executed in a unified style: if the cornice is simple, the medallion should also be simple; if the cornice has a rich ornament, the medallion can be complex.

Important: the width of the cornice and the diameter of the ceiling medallion should be proportional. For a cornice 80-100 mm wide, a medallion 50-70 cm in diameter is suitable. For a cornice 150-200 mm wide, a medallion 80-120 cm in diameter.

Ceiling medallion + moldings (frames)

You can create a frame on the ceiling made of moldings (rectangular, oval, round), inside which to place a ceiling medallion with a chandelier. The frame highlights the central area of the ceiling, creating a compositional hierarchy.

Rule: the frame must be significantly larger than the ceiling medallion. If the medallion is 70 cm in diameter, the inner size of the frame should be at least 150 × 150 cm, so that there is visual 'air' around the medallion.

Ceiling medallion + coffers

In a coffered ceiling, a ceiling medallion can be placed in the central coffer (the largest cell in the middle). The other coffers remain without medallions but may have small decorative overlays or built-in lights.

This solution is for high ceilings (from 3.2 m) and large rooms (from 30 sq.m), where the coffered structure does not feel oppressive but creates architectural depth.

Practical section: step-by-step selection algorithm

Let's summarize everything into a practical algorithm that will help you choose the perfect ceiling medallion.

Step 1: Measure your chandelier. Determine the diameter at its widest part. Record the value.

Step 2: Measure the room. Determine the area (length × width), ceiling height, and room width (the shorter side).

Step 3: Calculate the ceiling medallion diameter using the formula: chandelier diameter × coefficient (1.2-2.0 depending on room size and ceiling height).

Step 4: Check using the one-fifth rule: ceiling medallion diameter ≤ (room width / 5). If the calculated diameter is larger, reduce it to the permissible size.

Step 5: Choose an ornament style that matches the chandelier and interior style. For modern interiors—simple geometric ceiling medallions. For classic ones—with floral motifs. For palatial styles—Baroque with lavish decor.

Step 6: Check the diameter of the central hole of the ceiling medallion. It should be smaller than the diameter of the chandelier's decorative cup but larger than the diameter of the mounting rod.

Step 7: Purchase a ceiling medallion, mount it in the center of the ceiling (or the visual center for non-standard rooms), paint it, and hang the chandelier.

Questions and Answers: Everything You Need to Know Before Buying

Can a ceiling medallion be glued directly to a stretch ceiling?

No, directly is not possible. The stretch fabric cannot support the weight of a medallion (even a lightweight polyurethane one). For stretch ceilings, special overlay medallions are used, which are glued to the base ceiling before stretching the fabric. Then a cutout for the chandelier is made in the fabric, and the edges of the cutout are tucked under the medallion.

How much does a polyurethane ceiling medallion weigh?

The weight depends on the diameter. A medallion with a diameter of 50 cm weighs 0.5-1 kg. 80 cm diameter — 1.5-2.5 kg. 120 cm diameter — 3-5 kg. This is 5-10 times lighter than plaster counterparts.

Can a ceiling medallion be painted a dark color?

Yes, polyurethane accepts any paints. But note: a dark medallion (black, graphite, dark blue) will visually appear larger than a light one of the same diameter. If you plan to paint it dark, choose a medallion 20-30% smaller than the calculated size.

Can a ceiling medallion be cut to reduce its diameter?

No, this is impossible without destroying the ornament. A medallion is a solid element with a circular pattern. Trimming the edges will disrupt the design. If you need a smaller diameter, purchase a medallion of a smaller size.

How to install an outlet on an uneven ceiling?

Polyurethane is flexible and compensates for minor unevenness (up to 3-5 mm). If the unevenness is greater, level the ceiling with putty at least in the area where the medallion will be installed. Otherwise, the medallion will not adhere tightly, creating gaps that will spoil the appearance.

How long does it take to install a ceiling medallion?

Surface preparation (cleaning, priming) — 1-2 hours + primer drying time (12-24 hours). Center marking — 15-30 minutes. Gluing the medallion — 10-15 minutes + fixing time (holding for 2-3 minutes). Sealing joints with sealant (if needed) — 15-20 minutes. Painting — 1-2 hours + paint drying time (2-4 hours per coat, 2-3 coats needed). Total: 2-3 days including all technological pauses.

Can one ceiling medallion be used for multiple chandeliers?

No, if the chandeliers are spaced more than 1 meter apart. A medallion frames a single light fixture. For multiple chandeliers, use either several medallions (one under each) or one large oval medallion if the chandeliers are placed close together (e.g., two chandeliers over a dining table spaced 60-80 cm apart).

How to choose a ceiling medallion if the chandelier hasn't been purchased yet?

Plan in reverse: first determine the desired medallion diameter based on the room size (one-fifth rule: medallion ≤ room width / 5). Then calculate the maximum chandelier diameter: chandelier diameter = medallion diameter / 1.5. This will give you a guideline when selecting the light fixture.

Is a ceiling medallion needed for recessed ceiling spotlights?

No. Recessed spotlights do not require framing—they are integrated into the ceiling plane. Medallions are used only for pendant chandeliers and large ceiling light fixtures that extend below the ceiling level.

Can a ceiling medallion be combined with hidden lighting?

Yes, there are special medallions with a niche for LED strips. The LED strip is placed along the inner perimeter of the medallion, with light directed toward the center (onto the chandelier) or away from the center (onto the ceiling around the medallion). This creates an additional decorative effect, especially striking when the chandelier is turned off.

STAVROS: Masters of Creating Ceiling Masterpieces

When it comes to choosingceiling decorations, the quality of the material and precision of dimensions become critically important. A cheap medallion with a blurred ornament, incorrect geometry, or distorted shape is a guarantee of disappointment. It will not create the desired effect and will only spoil the impression of the interior.

For over twenty years, STAVROS has been producing ceiling moldings that meet the highest quality standards. Eachsocket for chandelier undergoes multi-stage quality control at all production stages.

Polyurethane with a density of 280-320 kg/m³ ensures structural rigidity without excessive weight. High-pressure casting guarantees sharp ornament detail with precision up to 1 mm. The primed surface is ready for painting with any interior paints. Geometric accuracy — diameter deviation no more than 2 mm for a 1-meter diameter product.

The STAVROS catalog features over 50 models of ceiling medallions—from minimalist modern designs with a 30 cm diameter to monumental Baroque styles with a 150 cm diameter. Medallions with simple geometric patterns for Scandinavian and minimalist interiors. Medallions with botanical motifs for neoclassical styles. Medallions with lavish Baroque compositions for palace-style interiors.

All sizes are standardized and correspond to European dimensional series. Diameters: 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 120, 150 cm. Central hole diameter: 60, 80, 100, 120 mm (specified in each model's description). Relief depth: from 3 mm (for simple ornaments) to 20 mm (for complex multi-layered compositions).

STAVROS offers not just materials, but professional support at every stage. Consultants help calculate the optimal medallion diameter based on your chandelier and room parameters. They select ornament styles that match your interior. Recommend additional elements (Ceiling Molding, moldings, overlays) to create a harmonious composition.

The professional tinting service allows you to get a medallion in any color from the RAL catalog. White, cream, gold, silver, bronze, any shade of your choice. Decorative effects like patina, aging, metallic — for exclusive projects.

Our own production in the Moscow region guarantees consistent quality and availability of popular models in stock. Lead time for custom sizes is 7-14 days. Delivery across Russia and CIS countries — from Kaliningrad to Vladivostok, from Murmansk to Tashkent.

STAVROS showrooms in Moscow and St. Petersburg are spaces where you can see medallions in person, assess the quality of relief, touch the material, compare different sizes and ornaments. Consultants take measurements (if you bring a photo of your chandelier), calculate the optimal diameter, and show painting samples.

The STAVROS quality guarantee is confidence that every medallion is manufactured without defects: perfectly round shape, without distortions; clear relief without blurred details; smooth primed surface without pits or drips; central hole precisely on axis. If a defect is found — replacement without questions.

Working with STAVROS, you get a partner who shares your passion for beauty and perfection. Who understands that a ceiling is not just a horizontal plane, but a space for creating architectural accents. Who provides the highest quality materials and expert knowledge so that your ceiling becomes what you dreamed of.

Entrust the selection and creation of ceiling decor to STAVROS — and get not just a chandelier medallion, but an architectural element that will turn your ceiling into a work of art. Because beauty created with precision and craftsmanship knows no compromises.