How to work with sloped ceilings: baseboards, mirrors, and moldings in an attic

The attic is a space with complex geometry, where verticals transition into slopes, where the ceiling descends to the floor, creating zones with different heights. This architectural feature is both a charm and a challenge. The charm lies in the coziness of slanted planes, the romance of the under-roof space, and the uniqueness of forms. The challenge lies in the complexity of organizing the interior, where standard finishing techniques do not work directly. How to usebaseboards in rooms with slanted ceilings? Where to place mirrors when walls are low or slanted? How do moldings help visually organize chaotic geometry?Wooden interior finishing of the atticrequires an understanding of the specifics of the space, the ability to turn architectural limitations into design advantages, and to use the warmth of natural material to create comfort where geometry could create discomfort.

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Anatomy of Attic Space: What Distinguishes It from an Ordinary Room

A typical room is a parallelepiped with four vertical walls and a horizontal ceiling. Proportions may vary, but the geometry is simple and predictable. The attic is arranged differently. Here, there are elements that create the unique architecture of the under-roof space.

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Roof Slope as the Dominant Element

The slanted plane of the roof is the main feature of the attic. The slope angle is usually 30-50 degrees, creating a slanted ceiling that starts at a height of 100-150 cm from the floor and rises upward to the ridge. This plane is both a wall and a ceiling, vertical and horizontal, creating a transitional zone of complex geometry.

The slope can start directly from the floor (in the simplest attic without knee walls) or from a low wall 80-120 cm high (knee walls — vertical sections of the wall between the floor and the start of the slope). The second option is more functional — knee walls create full vertical walls where furniture can be placed, mirrors hung, and space used without the limitations of the slope.

A gable roof creates a symmetrical attic with two slopes converging at the ridge. A shed roof creates an asymmetrical one, where one side has full height, and the other sharply lowers. A hip roof (four-sloped) creates an attic with slopes on all four sides, complicating the geometry but creating a unique spatial configuration.

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Zones with Different Ceiling Heights

The attic does not have a uniform ceiling height. The central zone under the ridge can have a height of 2.5-3.5 meters (comfortable for a person). As you move away from the center toward the edges, the height decreases. At a distance of 2 meters from the center, the height may be 1.8 meters. Another meter further — 1.2 meters. At the very wall — 0.8 meters or the slope starts directly from the floor.

This creates functional zoning dictated by geometry. The central zone with maximum height — for movement, placement of tall furniture (wardrobes, shelves), work areas. The middle zone with a height of 1.5-1.8 meters — for beds, sofas, armchairs (furniture used while sitting). The low zone under the slope — for storage (dressers, drawers), decorative elements, built-in storage systems.

Windows on Slopes: Dormer and Gable

Dormer windows are cut into the plane of the slope, creating light wells that penetrate deep into the roof. They provide excellent lighting (light falls from above, more effective than side lighting) but create difficulties with finishing — the slopes are slanted, the windowsill is also slanted, standard curtains are not suitable.

Gable windows are located in the vertical end walls of the attic (gables). They are finished like ordinary windows but often have non-standard shapes — triangular (repeating the shape of the gable), arched, combined. Gable windows create viewpoints, orient the space, and set compositional axes.

Floor Beams: Hide or Emphasize

The roof structure includes wooden beams — rafters that support the roofing, and floor joists that bear the floor load. In modern attics, these elements are often covered with drywall, creating smooth surfaces. But in interiors that value authenticity, the beams are left exposed, turning a structural element into a decorative one.

Exposed wooden beams create rhythm, structure, and emphasize the architecture of the space. They are painted in a contrasting color (dark beams on a light ceiling is a classic Scandinavian technique) or left in the natural tone of the wood. The beams set directions along which the rest of the decor is arranged — moldings, baseboards, zoning.

Baseboard in an attic: a baseline in non-standard geometry

baseboardIn a regular room, it runs along the perimeter, connecting four corners. In an attic, the perimeter is not rectangular. The baseboard runs along the two long walls, then either abuts the slope (if the slope starts from the floor) or continues along the short vertical walls (knee walls) and stops where the incline begins.

Baseboard height: proportion relative to low walls

A standard 80-100 mm baseboard looks good with a wall height of 2.5-2.8 meters. But if in an attic the vertical part of the wall (knee wall) is only 100 cm, a 100 mm baseboard will occupy 10% of the wall height — disproportionately large. Visually, the wall will appear even lower.

For attics with knee walls of 80-120 cm, the optimal choice isa thin baseboard of 60-70 mm. It marks the boundary between floor and wall, performs a protective function, but does not overload the low wall. The baseboard profile should be as simple as possible — rectangular with a slight rounding of the top edge, without complex protrusions and recesses.

If knee walls are absent (the slope starts directly from the floor), the baseboard runs only along the end vertical walls and along the central part of the long walls (where there is a full vertical zone under the ridge). It is not installed along the slope — technically difficult and visually illogical.

Baseboard color: light for visual expansion

Attics often have limited height, which creates a risk of a cramped feeling. A light baseboard (white, light gray, light wood) visually lightens the lower part of the room, creates an expansion effect, and does not feel oppressive. Using a dark baseboard in an attic is risky — it can create visual heaviness and enhance the feeling of low space.

Exception — attics with high knee walls (150-180 cm) and a large ridge height (3-3.5 meters). There is enough air there, and a dark baseboard will create contrast, emphasize the architecture, without creating pressure. But for typical attics with a ridge height of 2.5-2.8 meters, a light baseboard is safer.

Baseboard and the start of the slope: resolving the joint

The critical point is the place where the vertical wall (knee wall) transitions into the roof slope. The baseboard runs along the vertical part and stops at the transition line. It is necessary to decide how to finish this termination.

The first option — the baseboard ends with a vertical end, covered by an end cap (a decorative element covering the baseboard cut). The cap can be made of the same material (wood), painted to match the baseboard. This creates a neat finish, but the fact of termination remains noticeable.

The second option — the baseboard continues with a molding running along the slope at an angle. A molding of the same profile (or a simplified version of the baseboard profile) runs from the point where the baseboard stops upward along the vertical-to-slope transition line. This creates visual continuity, marks the architectural boundary, and acts as a "conditional baseboard" for the sloped part.

The third option — no continuation. The baseboard stops at the transition line, the slope remains without framing at the bottom. This is the most minimalist solution, suitable for modern interiors where clean lines and absence of excessive decor are important.

Conditional baseboard under the slope: framing the inclined plane

The molding running along the knee wall to slope transition line serves as a "conditional baseboard" — it marks the lower boundary of the inclined plane, creates a visual frame, and organizes the geometry. This technique is especially effective when the slope is painted a different color than the vertical wall.

Profile of the conditional baseboard

The profile should be simpler and narrower than that of the floor baseboard. If the floor baseboard is 70 mm, the conditional one under the slope is 40-50 mm. A simple rectangular profile ora beveled (chamfered) one— are optimal solutions. Complex classical profiles with protrusions and recesses are inappropriate here — they will overload the composition and conflict with the slope.

Material — the same as the floor baseboard. If the lower one is an oak wood baseboard, the conditional baseboard under the slope is also oak. If the lower one is white MDF, the upper one is white MDF. Unity of material creates a visual kinship of elements, reads as a system, not a random set of planks.

Installation of the conditional baseboard: working with the angle

Installing molding along an inclined line is more difficult than along a horizontal one. It is necessary to precisely maintain parallelism to the vertical-to-slope transition line. Any deviation is noticeable — the molding begins to diverge from the line, creating a visual error.

Fastening is done with screws (or nails) to the wooden elements of the roof structure (rafters, sheathing) through drywall or paneling. Fastening spacing is 40-50 cm. Using only glue is risky — under its own weight, the molding can detach on the inclined plane. A combination of glue + mechanical fastener is the optimal solution.

Joints of individual molding planks (standard length 2-2.5 meters) should be made at a 45-degree angle (miter cut), not a blunt butt joint. A miter cut is less noticeable and creates visual continuity. After installation, joints are filled, sanded, painted — they should be invisible.

Visual effect: ordering chaos

A conditional baseboard under the slope transforms the inclined plane from an architectural accident into a deliberate compositional element. The slope gains a frame, becomes a panel, rather than just a piece of ceiling that has descended to the floor. This is especially important when the slope is painted a contrasting color or clad in a different material (wooden cladding on the slope with painted vertical walls).

Two conditional baseboards (on both sides of the attic, along both slopes) create visual symmetry, parallel lines that guide the eye upward to the ridge. This structures the space, creates order, compensates for the complexity of the geometry.

Mirrors on low walls: functionality at limited height

Placing mirrors in an attic requires consideration of the constraints created by sloping ceilings. A standard full-length mirror of 60×180 cm, hanging on a 2.5-meter-high wall, may not fit in an attic — if the knee wall is only 120 cm and the slope starts immediately, there is no height for a proper full-length mirror.

Full-length mirrors at knee walls: placement calculation

If the vertical part of the wall (knee wall) has a height of 120-140 cm, a vertical mirror up to 110 cm high can be placed. The lower edge of the mirror is 5-10 cm above the baseboard, the upper edge is 5-10 cm from the start of the slope. A mirror of this height (110 cm) is not a full-length mirror (which requires at least 150 cm), but shows a person from the knees to the head — sufficient for most functional tasks.

The width of the mirror can be 50-70 cm, creating a proportional vertical rectangle. The mirror frame should be relatively narrow (40-60 mm), so as not to consume the scarce height. A massive frame 80-100 mm wide is disproportionate under height constraints.

Place such mirrors on the long walls of the attic where the knee wall is at its maximum height. Avoid placement at gable walls (frontons) if they have a triangular finish — a mirror on such a wall visually conflicts with the triangle's geometry.

Horizontal mirrors: an alternative approach

If height is limited, use horizontally oriented mirrors. A mirror of 80×50 cm (width × height) will fit on an 80 cm high knee wall, leaving 15 cm at the top and bottom. A horizontal mirror does not provide a full-length reflection, but reflects the face and upper body, works for cosmetic functions, and visually expands the space (by reflecting the opposite wall).

A group of 2-3 horizontal mirrors, placed on one wall with an interval of 30-40 cm, creates a composition that fills the low wall, creates rhythm, and adds light. The mirror frames can be identical (uniformity) or variations on a theme (different profiles, but the same wood species).

Inclined placement: a mirror repeating the slope angle

A bold solution is to place a mirror on the slope itself, repeating its incline. The mirror is attached to the inclined plane, reflecting the space at an angle. This creates an unusual effect — the reflection shows the ceiling, beams, the upper part of the opposite wall, rarely seen from such an angle.

Technically, such placement is more difficult — reliable fastening is needed to support the weight of the mirror on an inclined plane. French cleats (metal brackets that hook onto a wall strip) are used with mandatory additional fixation (corner brackets or additional fasteners in the lower part of the frame).

Functionally, an inclined mirror does not work for viewing oneself (the angle is inconvenient), but creates an artistic effect, a play of reflections, a visual complication of space. This is a solution for creative interiors where originality is important, not just functionality.

Mirror on the gable wall: reflecting the slope line

The gable (end) wall of an attic often has a triangular shape — a vertical part at the bottom, then two sloping planes converging at the apex. Placing a mirror on such a wall creates an interesting effect — the mirror reflects the opposite gable with its slopes, beams, windows.

Size and shape of a mirror on a gable

For small attics (width 4-5 meters), a mirror on the gable can be a vertical rectangle of 60×120 cm, placed in the center of the vertical part of the wall. It reflects the central part of the opposite gable, part of the ceiling with the ridge, creating an illusion of additional spatial depth.

For spacious attics (width 6-8 meters), a large mirror of 100×180 cm or even a composite of several mirrors can be used, creating an almost complete reflection of the opposite wall. This visually doubles the length of the attic — it seems the room continues beyond the mirror.

The shape of the mirror can repeat the shape of the gable — a triangular or arched mirror, repeating the wall's outline. This creates architectural harmony; the mirror becomes part of the room's geometry, not just an object on the wall.Arched frames for mirrorsare more complex to manufacture but create a unique effect that emphasizes the attic's architecture.

What the mirror reflects: composition control

A mirror on the gable wall reflects the entire opposite side of the attic. It is important that the reflection is beautiful. If opposite is just a plain white wall without details, the reflection is boring. If opposite is a dormer window showing sky and trees, the reflection creates a connection with nature, doubling the presence of light and greenery.

If opposite are exposed wooden beams painted a contrasting color, the reflection enhances the architectural rhythm, creates graphic quality. If opposite is an area with beautiful furniture (a bed with a carved headboard, an antique chest of drawers, a bookshelf), the reflection doubles the presence of these objects, creates richness of detail.

When planning the placement of a mirror on a gable, visualize (or check on-site with a temporary mirror) what exactly will be reflected. Adjust the mirror's position (higher-lower, left-right) so that the reflection captures the most interesting elements of the space.

Moldings in the attic: visual alignment of complex geometry

Moldings — thin decorative strips framing panels, doors, windows, creating wall divisions — in an attic work as a tool for visual correction. The complex geometry of slopes, varying wall heights, and inclined planes create visual clutter. Moldings structure this, create order, and guide the eye.

Horizontal molding at the level of the slope's start

The main technique is horizontal molding that runs along the entire perimeter of the attic at the level where the vertical wall transitions into the slope. This molding creates a visual shelf, a horizontal line that divides the room into two zones: the lower vertical and the upper sloped.

The molding width is 40-60 mm, with a simple profile (rectangular or with one bevel). It is mounted strictly horizontally (checked with a laser level) along the entire length of the walls. On the end walls (gables), the molding is interrupted or transitions into vertical moldings that frame the gable.

The visual effect is powerful. The attic gains a readable architecture. The lower part (from the floor to the molding) is perceived as walls. The upper part (from the molding to the ridge) — as the ceiling. The boundary between them is clear, understandable, and calming for perception. The chaos of complex geometry is organized.

Vertical moldings: framing zones

Vertical moldings are used to frame functional zones or architectural elements of the attic. For example, the bedroom area is framed by two vertical moldings (on the sides of the bed), running from the baseboard to the horizontal molding at the level where the slope begins. This creates a visual panel that highlights the sleeping area from the general space.

A dormer window is framed with moldings around the perimeter — vertical on the sides, horizontal at the top and bottom (if the window is rectangular). The framing emphasizes the window as an architectural element, integrating it into the wall composition. Without framing, a dormer window often looks like a hole in the slope; with framing — like a deliberate architectural element.

Doorways in the attic (entrance, doors to the bathroom or wardrobe) are framed with casings made of the same material and profile as the wall moldings. This creates a unity of the decorative system — all strips (baseboards, moldings, casings) are read as parts of one family of elements.

Moldings along beams: emphasizing the structure

If wooden floor beams or rafters are exposed in the attic, you can use moldings running along the beams, emphasizing their lines. A narrow molding (20-30 mm) is mounted on both sides of the beam, creating a framing effect. The beam visually becomes more expressive, read as an architectural dominant.

This technique works when the beams are painted in a color contrasting with the ceiling (dark beams on a light ceiling). Moldings of the same color as the beams enhance the contrast, making the rhythm of the beams clearer. For authentic interiors (Scandinavian style, country, chalet), this creates additional architectural expressiveness.

Materials for the attic: the warmth of wood versus the coldness of geometry

An attic with its sloped ceilings, limited height, and complex geometry risks seeming cramped, cold, and uncomfortable. Finishing materials are critical for creating psychological comfort. Warm natural materials — wood, textiles, natural stone — compensate for architectural complexity and create coziness.

Wooden baseboards and moldings: tactile warmth

Wood is a material with psychological warmth. Its texture, color, smell (of fresh wood), and tactile sensations create a connection with nature and evoke positive emotions. In an attic, where space can feel oppressive due to complex forms, wood acts as a psychological buffer, creating a sense of home, refuge, and safety.

Baseboards and moldings made of solid oak or beech, coated with oil or wax, preserving the natural color and texture of the wood, create a warmth that cannot be replicated by artificial materials. Polyurethane or MDF baseboards painted to look like wood may visually resemble it, but are tactically and psychologically cold — they are an imitation, not authenticity.

For attics where coziness is important (bedrooms, children's rooms, studies, studios), natural wood in light tones is preferable — light oak, natural beech, ash. Light wood reflects more light, visually expands the space, and creates lightness. Using dark wood (stained oak, wenge) in an attic is risky — it can create a feeling of crampedness and pressure.

Choice of wood species: oak, beech, or ash

Oak is a classic for wooden trim. Durable, stable, with an expressive texture and a wide palette of shades from light honey to dark brown. Oak baseboards and moldings last for decades, do not warp, do not crack, and withstand mechanical loads. For attics with active use (children's rooms, guest bedrooms), oak is the optimal choice.

Beech is a wood with a more uniform texture and a soft pinkish hue in its natural state. Beech is slightly less durable than oak, but for baseboards and moldings (non-load-bearing elements), this is not critical. Beech elements are often painted or stained, hiding the natural texture and creating an even color. For attics in Scandinavian style (light, minimalist), beech with light staining or white paint is an excellent solution.

Ash is a wood with a texture similar to oak, but lighter, with a grayish tint. Ash creates a northern, cool aesthetic suitable for modern minimalist attics. Ash elements treated with oil retain a light gray tone, creating freshness, lightness, and airiness.

Wood finishing: oil, wax, or paint

Oil penetrates the wood structure, emphasizes the texture, creates a matte or semi-matte surface that is pleasant to the touch. Oil does not create a film on the surface; the wood breathes and retains its naturalness. For attics where eco-friendliness and tactile comfort are important, oil is the best choice. Requires renewal every 3-5 years (light sanding and a fresh coat of oil).

Wax creates a glossier surface than oil, with a slight sheen that emphasizes the nobility of the wood. Wax protects better than oil but requires more complex maintenance (periodic polishing). For classic attics where respectability is important, wax is more suitable.

Paint hides the wood texture, creating an even colored surface. White paint is a popular choice for Scandinavian and Provence-style attics, creating maximum lightness. Colored paint (gray, blue, green) creates color accents that support the overall interior palette. Paint requires high-quality surface preparation (sanding, priming) but provides a durable finish.

Attic lighting: light as compensation for complex geometry

Attics often suffer from a lack of natural light (if dormer windows are small or few) and from uneven lighting (the center is bright, the edges under the slopes are dark). Well-thought-out artificial lighting is critical for comfort.

Multi-level lighting

A single ceiling light in the center of the attic will not solve the problem — the edges will remain dark. A system of several sources at different levels is needed.

Upper level (ceiling light) — a chandelier or group of lights on the ridge (the highest part), providing general diffused light. The power should be sufficient to illuminate the entire area.

Middle level (wall sconces) — lights on the vertical parts of the walls (knee walls) at a height of 150-180 cm, creating local lighting zones. Sconces by the bed, by an armchair for reading, by a dressing table with a mirror.

Lower level (floor lamps, table lamps) — mobile light sources that can be moved and directed to create localized lighting for specific tasks.

Hidden lighting in moldings

Modern technology — integration of LED strips into moldings to create hidden lighting. The LED strip is placed in a special molding with a groove (or behind the molding, creating a gap between the molding and the wall), with light directed along the wall or toward the ceiling, creating a soft, even glow.

A horizontal molding at the start of the slope with an integrated LED strip creates a light line that visually separates the lower and upper zones of the attic. This is not only beautiful but also functional — additional lighting makes the space brighter, especially in the evening.

Vertical moldings framing zones, with integrated LED strips, create light frames that turn zoning from visual to luminous. A sleeping area framed by glowing moldings becomes a light cocoon, cozy and distinct from the general space.

Mirror lighting

Mirrors in the attic require good lighting for functional use. Two sconces on the sides of the mirror or one fixture above the mirror — a classic solution. The light should be directed at the person in front of the mirror, not at the mirror itself (otherwise, glare is created).

For horizontal mirrors (above a dresser, vanity table), a linear LED fixture installed above the mirror is suitable, providing even lighting across the entire width. The color temperature for mirrors in the bedroom is warm white (2700-3000K), creating softness and coziness.

Frequently Asked Questions About Baseboards and Mirrors in the Attic

What is the minimum knee wall height needed to place a full-length mirror?

Minimum 150 cm to place a mirror 140 cm tall (accounting for 5 cm gaps at the top and bottom). If the knee wall is below 150 cm, use shorter mirrors (100-120 cm) or horizontally oriented ones.

Is a baseboard needed along the slope if the slope starts from the floor?

Technically possible, but visually odd — a slanted baseboard on the floor creates perceptual discomfort. It's better to limit baseboards to vertical sections and leave the slope without a baseboard. An alternative is to use a corner profile (corner bead) covering the joint between the floor and slope, but this is a technical solution, not a decorative one.

Can wide classic baseboards be used in the attic?

Yes, if the knee wall height is sufficient (minimum 150 cm) and the overall ridge height allows (minimum 2.8 meters). But for typical attics with knee walls 100-120 cm and ridge height 2.5 meters, wide baseboards (100+ mm) will visually overwhelm the low walls. Betterthin 60-80 mm.

How to secure a heavy mirror on drywall-clad attic walls?

Drywall alone cannot support a mirror weighing 10+ kg. It must be attached where wooden structural elements (rafters, frame studs) are behind the drywall. Use a detector (stud finder) to locate the screws securing the drywall to the frame — they indicate stud positions. Secure the mirror with screws through the drywall into the wooden frame.

What baseboard color is best for a dark attic?

Only light colors — white, light gray, light natural wood. Dark baseboards in a dark attic worsen the problem, creating a cellar-like feel. Light baseboards reflect light, visually expand the space, and create lightness.

How much does attic finishing with baseboards and moldings cost?

Depends on area and materials. For a 30 sq.m attic (perimeter about 25 meters): wooden baseboards 25 meters at 1800 rub/m = 45000 rub, moldings (horizontal and vertical) 40 meters at 1200 rub/m = 48000 rub, installation = 30000 rub, oil/wax coating = 15000 rub. Total about 138000 rubles. Using MDF for painting reduces cost to 80-90 thousand.

Can a mirrored ceiling be used in the attic?

Technically yes, but psychologically uncomfortable. A mirrored ceiling on a slope will reflect everything below (bed, people) at a strange angle. This is disorienting and may create a falling sensation. For ceilings, use glossy stretch ceilings (they reflect but not sharply, creating a slight shine without detailed reflection) or matte ones.

How to combine wooden elements with modern furniture in the attic?

Use light-toned wood (light oak, natural beech, ash) with simple profiles (rectangular, beveled, without carvings or complex protrusions). This is a modern interpretation of wooden decor, compatible with minimalist furniture. Dark wood and complex classical profiles conflict with modernity.

Conclusion: the attic as a space of possibilities

The attic is not a compromise due to limited budget or lack of space, but a unique space with character, individuality, and romance. Sloped ceilings, beams, dormer windows, complex geometry — these are not flaws but features that, with the right approach, become advantages.Wooden baseboards and moldingsdo not just cover technical joints but structure the space, create visual order, and compensate for complex forms. Mirrors add light, expand tight spaces, and double the beauty of the architecture. Warm wood creates psychological comfort where geometry might otherwise feel oppressive.

Designing an attic requires understanding its specifics, considering limitations, and a creative approach to using every centimeter. You cannot simply transfer techniques from a regular room—they won't work. Adapted solutions are needed: thin baseboards instead of wide ones, horizontal mirrors instead of full-length, conditional baseboards along the slopes, moldings as tools for visual correction. This requires design, calculations, and professional installation.

Since 2002, STAVROS has been creating solid wood products for the most complex interior projects.Finishing attics with wooden elements—is one of the areas where STAVROS's experience is fully revealed. Baseboards of all heights from 60 to 200 mm, moldings of all profiles from minimalist to classic, frames for mirrors of any sizes and shapes—all made from selected solid oak, beech, and ash, kiln-dried to a moisture content of 8-10%.

STAVROS's production base is equipped with CNC milling centers, allowing the creation of elements with perfect geometry—critical for attics, where any curvature, deviation from parallel or perpendicular lines is noticeable and disrupts the composition. Processing accuracy up to 0.1 mm ensures that elements will join without gaps, corners will be straight, and profiles will be consistent along their entire length.

A wide range of baseboard and molding profiles includes solutions specifically for rooms with complex geometry. Narrow baseboards 60-70 mm for attics with low knee walls. Simple rectangular andbeveled profilesfor modern interiors. Flexible moldings for framing curvilinear elements (arched windows, rounded transitions).

The possibility of custom manufacturing solves the problems of non-standard attics. Need a baseboard of a specific height (e.g., 85 mm) not available in the standard line? Require a molding that replicates a complex historical profile for restoring an old attic? STAVROS will manufacture according to your drawings or samples. Custom production lead times start from three weeks, with costs calculated after agreeing on the technical specifications.

STAVROS's consulting service assists at the attic project planning stage. What baseboard height is optimal for 120 cm knee walls? How to calculate the number of moldings for framing attic windows? Which profile will create the desired visual effect? Experienced specialists, working with architects and designers for over twenty years, will answer all questions and offer proven solutions.

The partner network of installers includes craftsmen specializing in work in attics—knowing how to attach elements to inclined planes, how to ensure accuracy with complex geometry, how to work in conditions of limited height. Proper installation in an attic is more complex than in a regular room, requiring experience, tools, and an understanding of the roof structure.

STAVROS logistics ensures the safe delivery of long-length products (baseboards and moldings of standard length 2-2.5 meters). Each element is individually packaged, protected from bending and impacts. For large orders (complete attic finishing), address-specific delivery is organized with unloading and lifting to the floor (including the attic).

STAVROS product warranty—five years against deformations, cracks, and delamination. Wood that has undergone kiln drying and proper storage is stable, does not warp from humidity changes, and does not crack from internal stresses. If manufacturing defects are found, the product is replaced at the company's expense without additional conditions.

Create attics where you want to live. Turn architectural limitations into design advantages. Use the warmth of wood to compensate for geometric complexity. Add light with mirrors, structure space with moldings, create order with baseboards. STAVROS—your partner in creating attics where architecture serves comfort, where details matter, where material quality guarantees durability and beauty. Start designing your attic today—the space under the roof awaits transformation into your home's favorite place.