Article Contents:
- Exterior: the facade as a business card
- Why a facade needs decor: the philosophy of external beauty
- Window casings: frames of light
- Cornices: horizontal articulation of the facade
- Columns and Pilasters: Vertical Accents
- Entrance group: the main portal as a theater curtain
- Entrance composition: symmetry and accent
- Portal elements: from base to pediment
- Staircase inside the house: a sculpture made of wood
- Balusters: Safety Through Beauty
- Handrails: ergonomics in hand
- Combination of balusters and molding on walls along the staircase
- Floor contour: baseboards as boundaries of worlds
- Solid wood vs. MDF: when strength is needed
- Baseboard height: proportions and style
- Baseboard color: contrast or blending
- Ceilings and walls: interior molding as the finale
- Ceiling Cornices: Completing the Vertical Line
- Ceiling rosettes: the center of the composition
- Wall moldings: frames and panels
- Comprehensive purchase: logistics and economics
- Material calculation for a 150 m² house
- Savings with a comprehensive purchase
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusion: from facade to floor — one story
A house is not the sum of walls, a roof, and windows. A house is a composition where each element is connected to others by invisible threads of style, proportions, and materials. The facade speaks about the owner first: cornices, casings, and columns convey taste, status, and attitude toward architecture. The entrance group is a theater curtain that opens the way to the interior. The staircase inside the house is not just a way to get to the second floor but a sculptural object where solid wood balusters create rhythm, texture, and safety. Baseboards along the floor contour are not utilitarian strips but baseline elements from which the perception of walls begins. Ceiling cornices and rosettes are the finale of the vertical composition, a frame that completes the space from above.polyurethane molding for facade windowsIt connects the exterior with the interior, creating a unified style where the external and internal cease to be disjointed zones and become parts of a whole. Comprehensive design of a country house is a journey from the facade to the floor, where polyurethane and wood work together, creating spaces that delight the eye, serve for decades, and are passed down to future generations as family heritage. In this article, we will analyze in detail each stage, each element, and each decision that turns a house into an architectural work.
Exterior: the facade as a business card
Why a facade needs decor: the philosophy of external beauty
A typical cottage without decor is a geometric shape with windows and a door. Functionally, the house works: the roof protects from rain, the walls retain heat, and the windows let in light. But visually, such a house is anonymous, lacks individuality, and evokes no emotions. Facade decor transforms geometry into architecture: cornices create horizontal articulation, casings frame windows, columns or pilasters set vertical axes, and rustication on corners emphasizes structural logic.
The psychology of perceiving the exterior works differently than that of the interior. The interior is viewed up close, from inside, noticing details, textures, and nuances. The exterior is perceived from a distance, from 15-50 meters away, evaluating the silhouette, proportions, and large-scale articulation. Facade decor must be sufficiently large-scale to be readable from a distance and expressive enough to create character.
Polyurethane revolutionized facade decor. Twenty years ago, facade molding was made of concrete (heavy, requiring wall reinforcement, expensive to install) or fiber-reinforced concrete (lighter but still requiring special fasteners). Polyurethane facade decor weighs 10-15 times less than concrete, is installed with adhesive plus dowels (without wall reinforcement), withstands frost (300+ freeze-thaw cycles), does not crack, and does not chip. The cost of polyurethane decor is 3-5 times lower than concrete with comparable visual quality.
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Window casings: frames of light
Windows without framing are holes in the wall. Windows with casings are architectural accents that organize the facade, create rhythm, and emphasize proportions. A casing is an applied frame 8-20 cm wide, installed around the perimeter of the window (on the sides and top, sometimes with a sill molding at the bottom), protruding 3-8 cm from the wall plane, creating volume, shadow, and play of light.
Window trim styles define the character of the facade. Classical trims with a pediment (a cornice above the window) and a windowsill molding are suitable for houses in the Empire, Classicism, and Neoclassical styles. The pediment imitates a small canopy that historically protected the window from rain. Today, the pediment is purely decorative but creates an impression of solidity and substance. The windowsill molding emphasizes the horizontal line of the sill, completing the framing from below.
Simple trims without a pediment (a frame around the perimeter with a simple profile) are suitable for houses in Modern, contemporary architecture, and Minimalist styles. The width of such trims is 8-12 cm, with a rectangular profile featuring one rounded edge or a bevel. The effect: windows are framed but restrained, without excessive decoration.
Asymmetrical trims with decorative overlays (keystones above the window, side consoles) are suitable for houses in Baroque, Eclectic, and Victorian styles. A keystone is a decorative trapezoidal element installed in the center of the upper part of the trim, creating an accent and imitating a structural element of arched masonry.
The material for facade trims is polyurethane with a density of 350-400 kg/m³ (facade polyurethane is 1.5-2 times denser than interior polyurethane, withstanding mechanical loads, impacts, wind, and snow). The surface is primed with white primer containing UV protection to prevent fading and degradation from solar radiation. After installation, the trims are painted with facade paints (acrylic, silicone) in any color.
The color of the trims determines the visual logic of the facade. White trims on colored walls (beige, gray, brown, terracotta) are a classic solution that highlights windows, creates graphics, and visually lightens the facade. Contrasting dark trims on light walls (graphite or black on white, cream) are a modern solution that emphasizes geometry and creates clarity. Trims in the color of the walls (beige trims on beige walls) are a restrained solution where trims are visible due to volume and shadows but do not contrast in color.
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Cornices: Horizontal articulation of the facade
A facade cornice is a horizontal protruding element installed under the roof (crowning cornice), between floors (interfloor cornice), or above the plinth (plinth cornice). A cornice with a width of 15-40 cm and a projection from the wall of 10-30 cm creates a horizontal line that divides the facade into tiers, sets the scale, and creates shadow (the greater the projection, the deeper the shadow, the more expressive the cornice).
The crowning cornice is installed under the roof overhang, separating the wall from the roof. Functions: protecting the upper part of the wall from water running off the roof (the cornice creates a projection from which water drips onto the blind area without hitting the wall), visually completing the facade (without a cornice, the wall meets the roof abruptly; with a cornice, the transition is smooth and architecturally meaningful). The profile of the crowning cornice is complex: several rows of cymas, rolls, possibly dentils (small teeth), creating a classical entablature.
The interfloor cornice is installed at the boundary between the first and second floors, at a height of 2.7-3.2 meters from the ground. Functions: visually separating the floors (the first floor is perceived as the base, the second as the superstructure), enabling two-color facade painting (first floor dark, second floor light, with the cornice as the boundary), creating a horizontal rhythm (if the house is three-story, two interfloor cornices create three tiers of equal height).
The plinth cornice is installed above the plinth, at a height of 50-80 cm from the ground, separating the plinth from the main wall plane. Functions: protecting the joint between the plinth and the wall from water (water drips from the cornice onto the blind area), visually marking the boundary (the plinth is often finished with a different material—stone, plaster of a different color—and the cornice emphasizes this boundary).
Installing polyurethane molding on a facadeInstallation of cornices is performed using a combined method: polyurethane adhesive for exterior work (frost-resistant, moisture-resistant) ensures full contact with the base, and additional mechanical fasteners (dowels or anchors spaced 50-70 cm apart) provide security against detachment under wind loads or snow weight. After installation, joints between cornice sections are sealed with polyurethane or acrylic sealant, and the top surface of the cornice is coated with a hydrophobic compound to prevent water from seeping under the element.
Columns and pilasters: vertical accents
Columns (round, standing away from the wall) or pilasters (flat, attached to the wall) create vertical articulation of the facade, mark the entrance area, and support a canopy, portico, or balcony. The height of a column or pilaster equals the height of one floor (2.5-3.0 meters for single-story elements) or two floors (5.0-6.0 meters for two-story elements).
The structure of a column consists of three parts: the base (lower part, 30-50 cm high, with a square or circular cross-section and simple relief), the shaft (middle part, the main height of the column, smooth or with flutes—vertical grooves), and the capital (upper part, 40-70 cm high, the most decorative, with ornamentation). The order of the capital (Doric, Ionic, Corinthian) determines the style of the facade.
Polyurethane columns with a diameter of 25-40 cm and a height of up to 3 meters weigh 15-35 kg (a concrete column of similar size weighs 150-300 kg). Installation: the column is placed on a prepared platform (concrete base or metal plate), attached to the wall with anchors at several points along its height, and the space between the column and the wall is filled with mounting foam (for rigidity) or left empty (if the column serves only a decorative function).
Pilasters with a width of 12-20 cm and a thickness (projection from the wall) of 5-10 cm are glued to the wall with facade adhesive and additionally secured with dowels. Pilasters are lighter than columns (weight per meter of pilaster is 3-6 kg), easier to install, but visually less expressive (flat, they do not create as deep a shadow as round columns).
Entrance group: The ceremonial portal as a theatrical curtain
Entrance composition: Symmetry and accent
The entrance door is the point of transition between the outside world and the home, between the street and private territory. This transition must be visually marked, emphasized, and elevated. An entrance group with a molded portal transforms a simple door into a ceremonial entrance that says: here the home begins, here you are welcomed, here you are desired.
Symmetry is the law of the entrance group. The door is in the center, with pilasters or columns symmetrically placed on either side; above the door, there is a canopy or pediment, possibly a gable. If the entrance area allows, lanterns (lights on brackets or posts) are installed on either side of the door—also symmetrically. An asymmetrical entrance group is perceived as unfinished, accidental.
The scale of the portal is coordinated with the scale of the house. For a single-story house 3-3.5 meters high, a portal 2.5-2.8 meters high (from the ground to the top of the canopy or gable) is suitable. For a two-story house 6-7 meters high, a two-story portal 5-6 meters high is suitable, where columns or pilasters run from the ground to the roof, supporting a second-floor balcony or gable.
Portal elements: From base to gable
Pilasters on either side of the door: Two pilasters 15-20 cm wide and 2.2-2.5 meters high are installed on either side of the door opening, framing the door. The base of the pilaster is at a height of 20-30 cm from the ground (or from the porch level), the capital at a height of 2.0-2.3 meters. Between the capitals of the pilasters and above the door, an entablature is installed—a horizontal element consisting of a frieze (decorative strip with ornamentation) and a cornice (protruding strip).
Canopy or pediment above the door: A canopy is a functional awning that protects the entrance area from rain and snow. The width of the canopy is 1.5-2.5 meters (30-50 cm wider than the door on each side), with a projection of 80-120 cm. The canopy rests either on consoles (decorative brackets attached to the wall) or on columns (if the portal has columns, the canopy rests on the capitals). A pediment is a decorative cornice above the door without the function of an awning, purely a visual completion of the portal. The width of the pediment is 1.2-1.8 meters, with a projection of 15-30 cm.
Gable above the portal: A triangular or semicircular overlay installed above the entablature, completing the portal from the top. A gable 50-80 cm high and 1.5-2.0 meters wide (matching the width of the portal) with ornamentation (a cartouche, coat of arms, or floral pattern in the center) creates an impression of an ancient temple, classical architecture, and monumentality.
Decorative overlays: Keystones above the door (trapezoidal element in the center of the upper part of the opening), consoles under the canopy (carved brackets imitating awning supports), rosettes on the frieze (round or oval overlays with ornamentation) add decorative richness and enhance the classical character.
The color scheme of the portal is contrasting: a white portal (all molding elements painted white) on colored walls (beige, gray, terracotta) is a classic that highlights the entrance and creates a ceremonial feel. Alternative: a portal in the color of the walls with gold or bronze accents (gilding of capitals, frieze, consoles) conveys luxury and respectability.
Staircase inside the house: A sculpture made of wood
Balusters: Safety Through Beauty
A staircase without a railing is dangerous. A staircase with a railing made of balusters is safe and beautiful. A baluster is a vertical element of the staircase railing installed between the steps and the handrail (banister), creating a barrier that prevents falls while also serving as a decorative element.buy balustersChoosing solid wood means investing in safety, durability, and beauty.
Structure of a baluster: lower part (foot, which attaches to the step or stringer of the staircase), middle part (body of the baluster, decorative part with a turned profile—rolls, balls, vases, spirals), upper part (neck, which attaches to the handrail or sub-rail). The height of a baluster is 70-90 cm (from the step to the top of the handrail). The cross-section of the body is 40×40 mm, 50×50 mm, 60×60 mm (round or square).
Material of balusters: solid oak, beech, ash. Oak (density 700 kg/m³) – durable, hard, stable, with a pronounced grain, dark brown or golden brown color after staining. Beech (density 680 kg/m³) – uniform in texture, light (pinkish hue), durable, but sensitive to humidity (ideal for indoor staircases with controlled humidity). Ash (density 690 kg/m³) – durable, with a pronounced grain (large pores, expressive pattern), light (white-gray or white-yellow), takes stain well.
The shape of balusters defines the staircase style. Classic balusters with a turned profile (vase, sphere, beads, fluting) suit classical, neoclassical, and Provence interiors. Minimalist square-section balusters without turning suit modern, Scandinavian, and loft interiors. Carved balusters with intricate ornamentation (grapevines, geometric patterns) suit luxurious classical interiors, Baroque, and Art Deco.
Number of balusters on a staircase: standard scheme – two balusters per tread (at the edges of the tread), distance between balusters 10-15 cm. Safety scheme (for homes with children) – three balusters per tread, distance 7-10 cm (a child's head cannot fit through). Sparse scheme – one baluster per tread in the center or one baluster per two treads (for minimalist-style staircases where visual lightness is important).
Handrails: ergonomics in the hand
Handrail (railing) – a horizontal element of the staircase railing, installed on balusters, providing hand support during ascent or descent. A comfortable handrail prevents falls, an uncomfortable one is useless. Handrail ergonomics are critical.
Handrail cross-section: round with a diameter of 50-55 mm (optimal for an adult hand grip, fingers wrap around 70-80% of the handrail, ensuring a secure hold) or oval 50×65 mm (also comfortable, the top plane is flat or slightly convex). Rectangular cross-section 60×80 mm is less comfortable (corners dig into the palm during a sudden grip) but visually stricter, suitable for minimalist staircases.
Handrail material – solid oak or beech, solid-lamella (up to 2.5 meters in length) or finger-jointed (over 2.5 meters). A solid-lamella handrail is made from a single piece of wood, without lengthwise joints, visually and tactilely monolithic. A finger-jointed handrail is made from several blocks joined with a micro-tenon (finger joint), joints are almost invisible but discernible upon close inspection. For staircases up to 2.5 meters long (straight flight of 13-15 steps), solid-lamella is suitable; for longer staircases, finger-jointed.
Handrail finish: oil (clear or tinted) preserves the wood grain, tactile warmth, creates a matte surface, requires renewal every 2-3 years. Varnish (polyurethane or acrylic) creates a glossy or matte surface, protects more reliably than oil, but is colder to the touch; when worn, varnish chips (oil wears evenly, unnoticeably).
Combining balusters and wall moldings along the staircase
A staircase in a house is not an isolated element, but part of a space where walls, ceiling, and floor are visually and stylistically connected to the staircase. If the walls along the staircase flight are covered with moldings (frames, polyurethane panels), the balusters and moldings should rhyme: if the balusters are classic turned, the moldings should also be classic with relief. If the balusters are minimalist square, the moldings should be rectangular in section, without ornament.
Color coordination: if the balusters are dark (stained oak to walnut, wenge), the wall moldings are white or cream – a contrast where the wood is warm, the molding is cool. If the balusters are light (whitewashed oak, ash), the moldings are also light – monochrome, unity of the material palette.
Handrail base rail – a horizontal wooden rail installed on the balusters, onto which the handrail is then mounted. The rail creates a level base for the handrail, concealing the top ends of the balusters. If the walls along the staircase are covered with moldings, the handrail base rail can be made in the same profile as the horizontal moldings – a visual rhyme.
Floor contour: baseboards as the boundary of worlds
Solid wood vs. MDF: when strength is needed
and paint it to the desired shade — standard practice in modern design. It is important to use special wood finishes that allow the material to breathe.Choosing baseboards means choosing between solid wood and MDF. Both materials are visually similar (especially MDF with oak or ash veneer), but differ in strength, durability, and price.
Solid oak or ash baseboard, thickness 15-22 mm, height 80-220 mm – strong, heavy, withstands impacts (accidental hits from a vacuum cleaner or furniture do not leave dents), not afraid of humidity (provided it is coated with oil or varnish), lasts for decades without losing appearance. Price 1200-2000 rub/m depending on height and profile. For high-traffic areas (halls, corridors), staircase spaces, living rooms with high load, solid wood is optimal.
MDF baseboard with oak or ash veneer, thickness 12-18 mm, height 80-180 mm – lightweight, visually close to solid wood (0.6 mm veneer creates wood grain), 2-3 times cheaper than solid wood (500-800 rub/m). But less durable (can crack under strong impact), sensitive to humidity (if water gets on the MDF and remains for a long time, the board swells). Suitable for bedrooms, studies, dressing rooms (low-traffic areas, no risk of mechanical damage).
Alternative: MDF baseboard for painting (without veneer, surface primed with white primer) for interiors where all elements are painted white or a color (monochrome interiors, Scandinavian style, minimalism). Price 400-600 rub/m, after painting visually indistinguishable from painted solid wood.
Baseboard height: proportions and style
Standard baseboard 60-80 mm – a utilitarian element that closes the joint between floor and wall but does not participate in decoration. For standard apartments with ceiling height 2.5-2.7 meters, such a baseboard is sufficient. For a country house with ceiling heights of 2.8-3.2 meters, a standard baseboard looks skimpy, does not hold proportions.
Tall baseboard 120-180 mm creates a visual base for the wall, from which the perception of the vertical begins. A room with a tall baseboard appears taller (optical effect based on proportions), more solid, more classical. The profile of a tall baseboard is complex: scotia (concave part, transition from the vertical plane of the baseboard to the floor), torus (convex part in the middle zone), straight vertical plane (main body of the baseboard), possibly another scotia in the upper part. A complex profile creates play of light and shadow, visual richness.
Very tall baseboard 200-220 mm – a solution for rooms with ceilings 3.5+ meters (double-height living rooms, halls of private houses). Such a baseboard works almost like a panel covering the lower part of the wall. European interiors of the 18th-19th centuries used baseboards up to 250 mm, creating an impression of solidity.
Skirting board color: contrast or blending
Classic scheme: baseboard contrasts with floor and walls. Dark floor (stained oak parquet, walnut, wenge), light walls (white, cream, light gray), baseboard dark to match the floor – visual continuation of the floor onto the wall, the boundary is emphasized. Alternative: baseboard light to match the walls – visual continuation of the wall downward, the floor appears as a separate element.
Monochrome scheme: floor, walls, baseboard the same color (all light – white oak, white walls, white baseboard). Effect: space visually expands, boundaries blur, the room appears larger. Suitable for small rooms 12-18 m².
Contrast scheme: baseboard a color different from both floor and walls. Dark floor, light walls, baseboard medium in tone (natural oak, walnut) – a triple composition where the baseboard is an independent element, not a continuation of the floor or walls. A complex solution requiring good taste, but creates visual richness.
Ceilings and walls: interior molding as the finale
Ceiling cornices: finishing the vertical
Polyurethane ceiling cornice – the transition from the vertical plane of the wall to the horizontal plane of the ceiling. Cornice width 100-180 mm (for ceilings 2.7-3.2 meters) with a classic profile (scotia, torus) or simplified (smooth slope) painted white (classic solution, cornice lighter than walls and ceiling) or the color of the ceiling (blends, creates a soft transition).
Functions of a cornice: visual completion of the wall from above (without a cornice the wall meets the ceiling abruptly, with a cornice the transition is smooth), possibility for hidden lighting (if an LED strip is installed behind the cornice, light reflects off the ceiling, creating soft diffused perimeter lighting), masking of imperfections at the wall-ceiling joint (if the joint is not perfect, the cornice covers gaps).
Cornice width is proportional to ceiling height. For ceilings 2.7 meters, optimal width is 90-120 mm. For ceilings 3.0-3.2 meters – 130-160 mm. For ceilings 3.5+ meters – 170-200 mm. A narrow cornice on a high ceiling gets lost, a wide cornice on a low ceiling visually weighs it down.
Wall finishing in a private houseWall molding is complemented by ceiling cornices, creating a complete composition where each plane (floor, walls, ceiling) is framed: floor – by baseboard, walls – by moldings, ceiling – by cornice.
Ceiling rosettes: the center of the composition
A ceiling rosette is a round or oval overlay with a diameter of 40-120 cm, installed on the ceiling in the center of a room (usually at the chandelier mounting point). It creates a compositional focal point, frames the light fixture, and adds decorative richness. A rosette with an ornament (acanthus leaves, roses, geometric patterns) suits classic interiors. A smooth rosette with concentric circles suits neoclassical or modern classic styles.
The size of the rosette is proportional to the room size. For a living room of 20-25 m², a rosette with a diameter of 60-80 cm is suitable. For a living room of 30-40 m² — 90-110 cm. For a hall or double-height living room of 50+ m² — 120-150 cm. A small rosette gets lost in a large room, while a large rosette overwhelms a small room.
The rosette is mounted on the ceiling with adhesive and additionally secured with a central fastener (a screw in the center, which is then covered with a decorative cap or passes through the rosette, serving as the chandelier mount). After installation, the rosette is painted white (classic) or to match the ceiling color. Gilding or patination of the relief (gold or silver accents on the raised parts of the ornament) is possible for luxurious interiors.
Wall moldings: frames and panels
Wall moldings in a private house create decorative panels — rectangular frames that structure the space, add volume, and link the interior with the exterior (if the facade has casings and cornices, the interior moldings stylistically rhyme with them). The layout of the moldings is symmetrical: on one wall, two to four panels are placed at equal distances from each other and at the same height.
The size of the panels depends on the wall height. For walls 2.7-2.9 meters high, vertical panels of 70×130 cm or 80×150 cm are suitable, arranged in a single tier from 30-50 cm above the floor to 200-230 cm. For walls 3.0-3.5 meters high, panels of 90×180 cm or 100×200 cm are suitable, or two tiers of smaller panels (lower tier 70×100 cm, upper tier 70×100 cm, separated by a horizontal molding).
Molding width for panels is 50-80 mm, profile is classic (ogee, bead) or simplified (rectangular cross-section). Molding color is white (universal solution, moldings are lighter than walls) or wall color (moldings blend in, visible due to relief and shadows).
Comprehensive Purchase: Logistics and Economics
Material Calculation for a 150 m² House
Example: A two-story country house with an area of 150 m² (first floor 75 m², second floor 75 m²), ceiling height 3.0 meters, 12 windows, one entrance door, staircase with 15 steps.
Facade:
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Casings for 12 windows (4 elements per window: two side, one top, one windowsill molding): 12 × 4 × 1.5 m = 72 linear meters of casings, width 12 cm × 800 rub/m = 57,600 rub
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Crowning cornice around the house perimeter (perimeter 40 meters, cornice width 20 cm): 40 × 1600 rub/m = 64,000 rub
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Entrance portal (two pilasters, entablature, canopy): ready-made set 85,000 rub
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Total facade: 206,600 rub for materials
Staircase:
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Oak balusters 30 pcs (two per step) × 1800 rub = 54,000 rub
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Oak handrail 6 meters × 2400 rub/m = 14,400 rub
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Support posts 2 pcs × 4500 rub = 9,000 rub
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Total staircase: 77,400 rub for materials
Baseboards:
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Perimeter of all rooms 120 meters, solid oak baseboard 120 mm: 120 × 1400 rub/m = 168,000 rub
Ceiling cornices:
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Perimeter of all rooms 120 meters, cornice 120 mm: 120 × 900 rub/m = 108,000 rub
Wall moldings:
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40 panels sized 80×150 cm (panel perimeter 4.6 m): 40 × 4.6 m = 184 meters of molding 70 mm × 700 rub/m = 128,800 rub
Rosettes:
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4 rosettes diameter 70 cm × 7500 rub = 30,000 rub
Total materials: 718,800 rub. Installation (facade + staircase + interior): 420,000 rub. Total 1,138,800 rub for comprehensive finishing of a 150 m² house.
Savings with a Comprehensive Purchase
Purchasing all materials (facade + staircase + baseboards + cornices + moldings) from a single supplier provides savings through bulk discounts, unified delivery, and discounts. Most manufacturers and distributors offer discounts: for orders over 150,000 rub — 5%, over 300,000 rub — 8%, over 500,000 rub — 10%, over 800,000 rub — 12%.
For a project with 718,800 rub in materials, a 12% discount amounts to 86,256 rub. Total materials 632,544 rub instead of 718,800 rub. Additional savings on delivery: one delivery of a large volume costs 25,000-35,000 rub, whereas multiple small deliveries from different suppliers would cost 60,000-90,000 rub. Savings of 30,000-55,000 rub.
A single installation by one crew (facade, staircase, interior molding) is faster and cheaper than different crews for different jobs. One crew works continuously for 3-4 weeks, while different crews wait for each other, experience downtime, and the overall timeline stretches to 2-3 months.
Frequently asked questions
Can polyurethane molding be installed on the facade in winter?
Yes, but with limitations. Mounting adhesive for exterior work maintains adhesion at temperatures down to -10°C, but sets more slowly (at +20°C setting time is 2-4 hours, at -5°C — 8-12 hours). Mechanical fasteners (dowels, anchors) work at any temperature. Optimal: install molding in spring or autumn at temperatures of +5...+20°C, low humidity, and no rain.
How long does facade polyurethane molding last?
With proper installation and painting, 30-50 years. Polyurethane is frost-resistant (withstands 300+ freeze-thaw cycles), UV-stabilized (does not degrade from sun), and moisture-resistant. The weak point is the joints between elements (if the sealant cracks, moisture penetrates, freezes in winter, expands, and damages the joint). Solution: inspect joints every 3-5 years and renew sealant as needed.
Oak or Beech Balusters — Which is Better?
For interior staircases in a house with controlled humidity (40-60%) and temperature (+18...+24°C), oak and beech are equally suitable. Oak is slightly stronger (density 700 vs. 680 kg/m³), has a more pronounced grain, and is 10-15% more expensive. Beech is lighter, more uniform in texture, and slightly cheaper. The choice depends on aesthetics: if you need a pronounced wood grain, choose oak. If you need uniformity and lightness, choose beech.
120 mm or 180 mm Skirting Board — How to Choose?
For ceilings 2.7-2.9 meters high, an optimal skirting board height is 120-140 mm (proportional to the room height). For ceilings 3.0-3.2 meters — 150-180 mm. For ceilings 3.5+ meters — 200-220 mm. General rule: the skirting board height should be 1/20...1/15 of the ceiling height. A 3.0-meter ceiling = 300 cm, skirting board 150-200 mm (1/20 = 150 mm, 1/15 = 200 mm).
Is a Ceiling Rosette Needed for a Modern Chandelier?
Not mandatory, but desirable for classical and neoclassical interiors. The rosette frames the chandelier, creates a compositional center on the ceiling, and adds decorative richness. For minimalist, modern interiors with spot lighting instead of a chandelier, a rosette is not needed — the ceiling is smooth, and a cornice around the perimeter is sufficient.
Can Polyurethane Molding Be Combined for Interior and Exterior?
Not only can it be combined, but it should be to create stylistic unity. If the exterior has classical architraves with pediments, the interior should also have classical moldings, cornices, and rosettes (with fillets, beads, ornaments). If the exterior is minimalist (simple rectangular-profile architraves), the interior should also be minimalist (smooth cornices, rectangular moldings). Unity of style creates the feeling that the house is designed as a whole, not assembled from disparate elements.
Conclusion: From Facade to Floor — One Story
A country house is not a set of rooms, but a single story that begins with the facade and continues inside. Exterior molding communicates the style, status, and taste of the owners. The entrance group with a formal portal greets guests and creates a first impression. The staircase with solid wood balusters leads to the second floor, being not just a functional element but a sculpture that you look at and touch. Skirting boards frame the floor, creating a baseline from which the perception of the walls begins. Wall moldings, ceiling cornices, and rosettes above chandeliers complete the composition, linking all planes into a unified system.
Polyurethane and wood are two materials that complement each other. Polyurethane provides lightness, moisture resistance, and the ability to create complex reliefs at a reasonable cost. Wood provides warmth, tactile richness, naturalness, and strength. Together, they create homes where artificial and natural elements do not conflict but work towards a common goal — beauty, comfort, and durability.
installation guide for polyurethane moldingAllows you to perform the work yourself or supervise contractors. Installing exterior molding requires care but is not overly complex: preparing the base, applying adhesive, installing the element, securing with dowels, sealing joints, painting. Installing stair balusters requires precision (each baluster must be vertical, the handrail must be horizontal or slanted at the correct angle), but with the right tools (level, miter box, screwdriver) it is feasible.
The cost of comprehensive house finishing for a 150 m² house is 630,000-720,000 rubles for materials + 380,000-450,000 rubles for installation = 1,010,000-1,170,000 rubles. This is 15-20% of the cost of building a turnkey house (6-7 million rubles), but it is precisely these percentages that transform a standard cottage into a house with character, individuality, and architectural value.
Company STAVROS offers a comprehensive approach to finishing country houses — from exterior decor to interior furniture. Exterior polyurethane molding of European production with a density of 350-400 kg/m³ and frost resistance of 300+ cycles — architraves of all styles and sizes, cornices from 15 to 40 cm wide, columns and pilasters of classical orders, rustication, balustrades, keystones, decorative overlays. All exterior decor is primed with white primer with UV protection, ready for painting with exterior paints.
Stair components made of solid oak, beech, ash — over 80 baluster models (from classical turned to modern square), handrails of round and oval cross-section (solid lamellar up to 2.5 meters, spliced up to 6 meters), support posts, sub-rail strips, fasteners. All made from high-quality dried solid wood (moisture content 8-12%), sanded, ready for oil staining or painting.
Floor skirting boards made of solid oak and ash — over 40 profiles with heights from 80 to 220 mm, simple rectangular for modern interiors and complex multi-step for classical ones. MDF skirting boards with oak or ash veneer or for painting as a budget alternative. All skirting boards have precise geometry, ready for installation.
Ceiling cornices and rosettes made of polyurethane — cornices of all widths (from 80 to 220 mm) and profiles (from smooth to lavish with dentils), rosettes with diameters from 40 to 150 cm (smooth, with concentric circles, with ornaments). Wall moldings of all widths and profiles for creating decorative panels.
Design studio STAVROS develops comprehensive house finishing projects with 3D visualization. You see how the exterior molding complements the house's architecture, how the entrance portal integrates into the composition, how the staircase balusters rhyme with the wall moldings, how skirting boards and cornices complete the interiors. The project includes calculation of all materials down to the meter, an estimate, and recommendations for installation and painting.
When ordering a set of materials for a house (exterior + staircase + skirting boards + cornices + moldings) for an amount from 300,000 rubles, STAVROS provides an 8% discount on all materials. For orders from 500,000 rubles — a 10% discount plus free delivery to Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region. For orders from 800,000 rubles — a 12% discount plus free delivery throughout Russia. Savings of 40,000-110,000 rubles.
STAVROS installation teams — specialists in exterior and interior work. Installation of exterior molding with base preparation, gluing, mechanical fastening, joint sealing, painting. Installation of stair balusters and handrails with precise placement, fastening, joint sanding. Installation of skirting boards, cornices, moldings with miter cutting, finishing. Work in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Moscow and Leningrad regions, travel to regions for large projects, 3-year quality guarantee.
By choosing STAVROS, you get a partner in creating a home where every element is thought out, where the exterior and interior are connected by a unified style, where polyurethane and wood work together, creating spaces that delight the eye, serve for decades, and become a family legacy. From facade to floor — one story, one style, one quality. With STAVROS, your home will gain an architectural appearance that will delight generations.