Framing Mirrors with Polyurethane Molding: Frames and Decorative Borders

A frameless mirror is a function. A framed mirror is art. The difference between a piece of reflective glass on the wall and an architectural object that sets the tone for the entire interior lies in the framing.Polyurethane molding mirrortransforms a utilitarian object into a decorative focal point of the room — moldings form the frame, appliqués create corner accents, painting adds color and texture. The result: the mirror ceases to be just a mirror, becoming a portal of light, a compositional anchor, a carrier of style.

In classic interiors, a framed mirror is an essential element. Above the fireplace, above the console in the hallway, between windows in the living room, in a bedroom wall recess — anywhere you need to enhance light, visually expand space, create symmetry. Historically, mirror frames were made of carved wood with gilding — expensive, heavy, requiring highly skilled craftsmen. Polyurethane molding democratized luxury: complex profiles and carved ornaments are available for 2-10 thousand rubles instead of 50-200 thousand for a wooden frame, weight is 5-10 times less (easier installation, no wall reinforcement needed), painting creates any finish from matte white to gold with patina.

This article is a practical guide to creating mirror frames from polyurethane moldings. We will cover the selection of profiles and appliqués, size calculation, the technique of mitering corners and assembly, mounting the frame around a ready-made mirror or installing the mirror inside the frame, painting (gold, silver, patina, colored options), placement in the interior (above the fireplace, console, in panels). This is not a superficial overview, but a detailed instruction for independent implementation or competent ordering from craftsmen.

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The philosophy of the mirror: why the frame is critical

A mirror does not work on its own. It reflects space, light, people — but its own shape, boundary, transition from wall to reflection determine perception. A frameless mirror dissolves into the wall (if the wall is light) or looks like a technical element (if the wall is dark). The frame creates a window — symbolically, the mirror becomes an opening into another space, an illusion of depth.

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Historical roots: the mirror as status

Until the 19th century, mirrors were rare — Venetian glass cost as much as a small estate. The mirror was framed accordingly — a carved frame of walnut, oak, precious woods with gilding emphasized the object's value. The frame cost more than the mirror sheet itself. It was a statement of status: the owner could afford not just a mirror, but a mirror in a work of art.

This tradition has been preserved in classic styles. Baroque, Rococo, Classicism, Empire — all require massive carved frames for mirrors. Ignoring this rule destroys stylistic integrity. A frameless mirror in a Baroque interior looks alien, cheap, modern (in a negative sense — an anachronism).

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The function of the frame: not just decor

The frame protects the edges of the mirror sheet. The amalgam (reflective layer on the back of the glass) is fragile — scratches, chips at the edges spread quickly, the mirror degrades. The frame covers the edges, prevents mechanical damage, and extends service life.

The frame conceals the fasteners. The mirror is mounted with adhesive, special holders, anchors (for heavy sheets). All these elements are technical, unattractive. The frame covers the mirror's perimeter, hiding the fastenings, creating visual cleanliness.

The frame sets the scale. A 60×80 cm mirror sheet without a frame seems small, gets lost on the wall. The same sheet in a frame 10-15 cm wide occupies an area of 80×110 cm — perceived as a large object, a compositional center.

Choosing moldings: profile, width, style

Mirror frames made of polyurethaneare assembled from moldings — profiled linear elements. The choice of molding determines the style, visual weight, and compatibility of the frame with the interior.

Molding width: proportions matter

Narrow moldings (30-50 mm) create a delicate frame, suitable for small mirrors (up to 50×70 cm) in intimate spaces (bedrooms, bathrooms, studies). The frame does not dominate, serving as a subtle border.

Medium moldings (60-80 mm) are versatile, suitable for mirrors ranging from 60×80 cm to 100×150 cm in living rooms, hallways, and dining rooms. They create a noticeable but not overwhelming frame.

Wide moldings (90-120 mm) are for large mirrors (120×180 cm and above) in spacious rooms with high ceilings (from 3.5 meters). The massive frame matches the scale of the space without appearing excessive.

Extra-wide (150-200 mm) for palace interiors, full-length mirrors 2-3 meters high, grand halls. Rarely found, usually made to order.

Proportion rule: the width of the frame (molding) should be 1/8 to 1/12 of the mirror's shorter side. For a 60×80 cm mirror → frame width 60÷10 = 6 cm (choose a 60-70 mm molding). For a 100×120 cm mirror → 100÷10 = 10 cm (choose a 90-110 mm molding).

Molding profile: stylistic cross-section

Simple rounded profile (semi-circle, quarter-circle) suits modern, transitional, and Scandinavian interiors. Minimal decoration, clean lines.

Classical multi-step profile (multiple planes at different angles, creating interplay of light and shadow) for classicism and neoclassicism. Strict geometry, architectural feel.

Carved ornamental profile (acanthus leaves, palmettes, scrolls, rosettes, meanders) for Baroque, Rococo, and Empire styles. Maximum decorativeness, luxury.

Textured profile (imitation of wood, stone, or leather through relief) for eclectic, ethnic, and country interiors. Visual tactility, naturalness.

Matching the interior style is critical. A carved molding in a minimalist room looks absurd. A simple smooth one in a Baroque hall looks cheap and unfinished.

Material: why polyurethane outperforms wood and plaster

Wood is traditional and noble but heavy (a frame for an 80×100 cm mirror made of oak molding weighs 8-12 kg vs. 1.5-2.5 kg for polyurethane), expensive (wooden carved molding costs 1500-4000 rubles/meter, while polyurethane of similar design costs 600-1500 rubles/meter), and requires complex processing (cutting, sanding, painting).

Plaster is classic but fragile (breaks if dropped), heavy (a plaster frame weighs 10-15 kg), not moisture-resistant (deteriorates in bathrooms and kitchens), and expensive to produce (hand-crafted or costly molds).

Polyurethane is lightweight (density 200-300 kg/m³, frame weighs 1-3 kg), durable (doesn't shatter on impact, doesn't crumble), moisture-resistant (suitable for bathrooms and kitchens), affordable, easy to install (cuts with a saw, glues with polyurethane adhesive), and can be painted any color. After painting, it is visually indistinguishable from wood or plaster.

Size calculation: geometry of the perfect frame

Creating a frame starts with precise measurements and calculations. An error at this stage leads to gaps, mismatches, and rework.

Option 1: frame around an existing mirror

The mirror is already hanging on the wall; you need to create a frame around it. Measure the external dimensions of the mirror glass (width W and height H).

The inner perimeter of the frame (the part that adjoins the mirror) should be slightly larger than the mirror—a 2-3 mm gap on each side to compensate for inaccuracies. Inner frame width W_in = W + 6 mm. Inner frame height H_in = H + 6 mm.

Molding width (M) is chosen according to the proportion rule.

Outer perimeter of the frame: W_outer = W_in + 2×M, H_outer = H_in + 2×M.

Length of molding blanks:

Top and bottom strips: L_horiz = W_in + 2×M = W_outer (cut with 45° miter cuts; note that the measured length is along the outer edge of the molding).

Side strips: L_vert = H_in + 2×M = H_outer (also with 45° miter cuts).

Example: mirror 60×80 cm, molding width 70 mm.

W_in = 600 + 6 = 606 mm, H_in = 800 + 6 = 806 mm.

W_outer = 606 + 2×70 = 746 mm, H_outer = 806 + 2×70 = 946 mm.

Horizontal blanks: 746 mm along the outer edge (after 45° miter cut, the inner edge length will be 606 mm).

Vertical blanks: 946 mm along the outer edge (inner edge 806 mm).

Option 2: frame with mirror installed inside

The frame is created separately, then a mirror panel (cut to the size of the frame's inner perimeter) is inserted into it. This method yields a cleaner result—the mirror fits the frame's inner opening precisely, with no gaps.

Determine the desired external frame dimensions (W_external, H_external)—how much wall space the composition should occupy.

Subtract double the molding width: W_internal = W_external - 2×M, H_internal = H_external - 2×M.

Order a mirror panel sized W_internal × H_internal (minus 2-3 mm on each side for fitting into the frame).

Assemble the frame from four molding strips, install the mirror inside, secure it from the back (plywood back panel with hanging hardware or silicone sealant around the mirror perimeter).

Example: we want a frame with external dimensions of 80×100 cm, molding 80 mm.

W_internal = 800 - 2×80 = 640 mm, H_internal = 1000 - 2×80 = 840 mm.

Order a mirror 635×835 mm (5 mm clearance accounted for).

Assemble the frame from strips: horizontal 800 mm, vertical 1000 mm (by external edge).

Accounting for molding thickness and profile depth

Moldings have a thickness (distance from the back plane to the profile peak) of 8-25 mm. If the mirror is glued to the wall, the frame is mounted over it—it protrudes from the wall by the molding thickness. This is normal and creates volume.

If the mirror is installed inside the frame, you need to provide a groove or ledge on the back of the frame to hold the mirror. Some moldings have a profile with a step (ledge) that forms a natural groove. If the profile lacks a step, glue a thin strip (5×10 mm) around the inner opening perimeter on the back—it will create a ledge for the mirror edge to rest on.

Assembly technique: 45° angles and profile joining

The frame consists of four strips (two horizontal, two vertical), joined at the corners at 45°. Cutting angle precision is critical—a 1-2° error is visible as a gap, making the frame look amateurish.

Tools for precise cutting

Miter box—a guiding tool for cutting at specified angles. A plastic miter box (300-600 rubles) is suitable for moldings up to 80 mm wide, providing angles of 45°, 90°, sometimes 22.5°. An aluminum or steel miter box (1500-3000 rubles) is more precise, durable, and works with wide moldings up to 120 mm.

Miter saw (an electric tool with a rotating table and saw) ensures perfect angles, clean cuts, and productivity. Price ranges from 5000 to 50000 rubles depending on power and features. Not cost-effective for a single frame, but pays off if you plan multiple projects.

A metal saw with fine teeth (32-36 teeth per inch) paired with a miter box gives a clean cut without chips. A wood saw with coarse teeth cuts faster but leaves chips—requires subsequent sanding.

Cutting technique: step by step

Mark the first strip. Measure the required length (by external or internal edge depending on the chosen calculation method), mark with a pencil. Consider the angle direction: for horizontal strips, angles face down; for vertical strips, angles face sideways.

Place the molding in the miter box with the front side up (profile facing you), press the flat back side against the far wall of the miter box. Guide the saw through the miter box guide slots at 45°, cut with smooth motions without strong pressure (strong pressure deforms polyurethane, causing chips).

Cut the second end of the strip at the opposite 45° angle (mirroring the first). This results in a strip with two angled cuts, forming a trapezoid.

Repeat for the remaining three strips. Important: opposite strips (top-bottom, left-right) must be identical in length (difference no more than 1 mm).

Dry assembly: check before gluing

Lay out the four strips on a flat surface (table, floor), join the corners. Check:

Profile alignment—the ornament or profile steps should continue through the corner without misalignment.

No gaps at corners—the joint should be tight, with a gap no more than 0.5 mm (acceptable, will be filled with putty).

Frame squareness—measure the diagonals (from corner to opposite corner). Diagonals should be equal within 2-3 mm. If not equal—the frame is skewed, check the cut angles, possibly one is 44° or 46° instead of 45°.

Frame gluing: permanent fixation

Use polyurethane glue (Cosmofen, Moment Crystal) or acrylic mounting adhesive (Moment Mounting). Apply a thin layer of glue to both cut surfaces of the corner, join, press for 30-60 seconds. Wipe away any squeezed-out glue immediately with a damp cloth.

Secure the corners until the glue fully sets. Use:

Corner clamps for frames (sold in woodworking stores, 500-1500 rubles each, 4 pieces needed). They pull the corner together, ensuring tight contact.

Painter's tape — wrap the corner in a crisscross pattern, creating a tightening force. A simple, cheap, effective method.

Nails or screws — on the back side of the corner (invisible when mounted), drive a small screw or a finish nail at an angle, connecting the two strips. Increases the mechanical strength of the corner.

Leave the frame clamped for 2-4 hours until the glue fully sets. Then remove the clamps, check the strength of the corners (try to gently pry them apart — the corner should not have any play).

Final processing of joints

Even with a perfect miter cut, there can be micro-gaps in the corners. Fill them with white acrylic putty (if the frame will be white) or primer for painting. Apply the putty with a rubber spatula, pressing it into the gap, smooth it flush with the surface. Let it dry (1-2 hours), sand with P220 sandpaper, remove dust.

After sanding, the joints are invisible — the frame looks solid, as if carved from a single piece.

Mounting the frame on the wall: two approaches

Method 1: frame around an already glued mirror

The mirror is already hanging on the wall (glued with mounting adhesive, special double-sided tape for mirrors, or held by metal hook fasteners).

Apply glue to the back plane of the frame (in a strip 10-15 mm wide around the perimeter, stepping back 5-10 mm from the inner edge so that squeezed-out glue does not get on the mirror). Use fast-setting polyurethane glue or mounting acrylic adhesive.

Carefully place the frame over the mirror, aligning the inner perimeter of the frame with the edges of the mirror (2-3 mm gap on each side). Press the frame against the wall, hold for 2-3 minutes until the adhesive sets.

Check for level and plumb with a level. If the frame has shifted — adjust it while the adhesive hasn't set yet.

Additional fixation (for heavy frames 100+ mm wide): in several points (frame corners, midpoints of sides) drive screws through the frame into the wall. Sink the screw heads, fill with putty, sand — they will become invisible after painting.

Method 2: installing the mirror into a ready-made frame

The frame is assembled separately. The mirror glass is cut to the size of the frame's inner opening (minus a 2-3 mm gap).

Place the frame face down on a soft surface (blanket, carpet — to avoid scratching the profile). Insert the mirror into the opening from the back side; it will rest on the shelf or ledge of the profile.

Secure the mirror. Options:

Plywood back panel — cut plywood 4-6 mm thick to the outer dimensions of the frame, attach it to the frame with small nails or screws. The plywood presses the mirror, preventing it from falling out. Attach hanging hardware (D-rings, sawtooth hangers) to the plywood.

Silicone sealant — apply a bead of neutral silicone sealant around the perimeter of the mirror (between the edge of the mirror and the back of the frame). The silicone will bond the mirror to the frame, securing its position. Let it dry for 24 hours, then mount the frame on the wall.

Metal clips (U-shaped brackets) — install clips at the corners and midpoints of the sides, securing the mirror with small nails to the frame.

Hang the finished frame with the mirror on the wall. Use sturdy hooks, anchors (if the wall is concrete/brick) or drywall fasteners (if the wall is drywall). Weight of frame with mirror: polyurethane frame 80×100 cm ≈ 2-3 kg + mirror ≈ 8-10 kg = 10-13 kg total. The fasteners must support at least 20 kg with a safety margin.

Corner decorative elements: accents of luxury

Framing mirrors with moldingscan be enhanced with decorative overlays in the corners. This adds three-dimensionality, creates visual accents, and reinforces the style.

Types of corner overlays

Corner rosettes — square or diamond-shaped overlays with carved ornamentation (flowers, leaves, geometric patterns), installed on the corners of the frame over the molding joints. Sizes from 50×50 mm to 150×150 mm. They hide the joints, turning a simple frame into a carved one.

Corner scrolls (volutes) — S-shaped or C-shaped elements installed in the corners, extending beyond the frame. Create a Baroque, Rococo effect.

Cartouches — oval or shield-shaped overlays with heraldic motifs, installed in the upper part of the frame (above the mirror). A classic element of formal interiors.

Mounting overlays

Overlays are glued to the corners of the frame after assembly, before painting. Apply adhesive to the back of the overlay, place it on the frame corner, press for 30-60 seconds. Ensure the overlay is symmetrical relative to the corner (the center of the overlay aligns with the line of the molding joint).

After gluing all overlays, prime the frame together with the overlays, then paint — the overlays and frame will become a single, visually inseparable whole.

Where to buy overlays

Polyurethane decorative appliquesare available in catalogs of molding manufacturers. Price from 150 to 1500 rubles per piece depending on size and complexity of the ornament. The frame requires 4 pieces (one in each corner) — total 600-6000 rubles per set.

STAVROS offers over 100 designs of corner overlays: from simple geometric (circles, squares, rhombuses) to complex carved (acanthus leaves, palmettes, roses, grapes). Sizes from 40×40 mm to 200×200 mm. All overlays are white primed, ready for painting.

Frame painting: color and texture

A white frame is elegant, universal, but monochrome. Painting opens up limitless possibilities — gold, silver, bronze, patina, colored options, aging effect.

Gilding: imitation of palace luxury

A gold frame is a symbol of classic interiors. Genuine gold leaf (ultra-thin sheets of gold glued onto the frame) costs 50-200 thousand rubles for an 80×100 cm frame. Imitation with gold paint — 2-5 thousand rubles, visually close to genuine.

Gilding technique with paint:

Prime the frame with white acrylic primer (if the factory primer is damaged during assembly). Let dry for 2 hours.

Paint with gold acrylic paint. Use paints with metallic pigment (Tikkurila Gold, Dulux Precious Metals, Rust-Oleum Metallic). Two to three thin coats (2-hour intervals between coats) provide dense, even coverage.

Option: full gilding (entire frame gold) or partial (gold only on protruding parts of the profile — dry brush technique). Partial creates depth, volume — recesses remain white or cream, protrusions are gold.

Patination (aging effect): after the gold paint dries, apply dark patina (brown, black acrylic paint diluted with water 1:1) into the recesses of the relief. Immediately wipe the protruding parts with a damp sponge — patina remains only in the recesses, creating an effect of accumulated time's grime, noble antiquity.

Silver and bronze: alternatives to gold

A silver frame (Metallic Silver, Chrome paints) creates a cooler, more modern look. Suitable for neoclassical, art deco, glamorous interiors.

Bronze (Antique Bronze, Copper paints) is warmer than gold, less pompous. Good for ethnic, Mediterranean, loft interiors.

The painting technique is identical to gilding.

Colored frames: bold solutions

A frame matching the wall color creates monochromy — the mirror acts as an architectural element, not a decoration. Suitable for modern styles.

A contrasting frame (black on white walls, white on blue) creates graphic quality, clarity. Suitable for Scandinavian, contemporary interiors.

A pastel frame (gray-blue, dusty pink, mint) for Provence, shabby chic, romantic interiors.

Paint with regular acrylic interior wall paints. Two to three coats, final coat matte or semi-matte (not glossy — gloss on a frame looks cheap).

Mirrors in classic interiors: placement rules

Where to hang a framed mirror so it works compositionally, functionally, stylistically?

Above the fireplace: symmetrical dominant

A fireplace (functional or decorative) is the compositional center of a living room, study, library. A mirror above the fireplace is a classic solution that enhances centrality.

Rules:

Width of the mirror frame = 60-80% of the mantel shelf width. Fireplace width 150 cm → mirror 90-120 cm (with frame).

Lower edge of the frame at a height of 10-20 cm above the mantel shelf. Too low — the mirror merges with the fireplace; too high — the connection is lost.

Vertical orientation is preferable to horizontal — stretches the space upward, balances the horizontality of the fireplace.

Symmetry is mandatory — mirror exactly centered on the fireplace. A shift of 5-10 cm ruins the composition.

On the sides of the mirror are sconces (wall lights), candelabra on the mantel shelf, symmetrical accessories. The mirror reflects light from the sconces, doubles it, and enhances the illumination of the area.

Above the console in the hallway: function plus decor

A console (a narrow wall-mounted table) in the hallway serves as a place for keys, bags, and decor. The mirror above the console serves a function (to check oneself before leaving) + decor (the first thing a visitor sees).

Rules:

Frame width = console width ± 10 cm. Console 80 cm → mirror 70-90 cm.

The lower edge of the frame is at a height of 5-15 cm above the console surface.

Shape — vertical or square. A horizontal mirror above the console visually grounds the composition.

The frame is massive, carved, gilded — the hallway sets the tone for the interior and should make an impression.

On the console — symmetrical pairs of objects (two lamps, two candlesticks, two vases), mirror in the middle. Symmetry creates order and welcomes the visitor.

In wall panels: architectural integration

Walls decorated with moldings (rectangular panels made of moldings, empty or with wallpaper inside) are a classic technique. A mirror in one of the panels is the next level.

Technique:

Create panels from moldings on the wall (usually 3-5 panels horizontally, 2-3 vertically).

Leave one central panel for the mirror. Mirror size = inner panel size minus 5-10 cm on each side.

The mirror frame is made from the same molding as the panels or from a slightly narrower one (by 10-20 mm). Visual unity.

The mirror inside the panel reflects the opposite wall with panels — creating an effect of doubling the architecture and visually expanding the room.

The remaining panels can contain paintings, tapestries, or be empty (wallpaper, fabric).

Mirror in the bedroom: function and superstitions

A large framed mirror above a dresser or vanity table in the bedroom is functional (for dressing, styling hair) and decorative.

Notes:

Do not hang a mirror opposite the bed — superstition (feng shui prohibits it), but also practical discomfort (waking up and seeing one's reflection is psychologically uncomfortable for many).

Optimal placement — above a dresser on a side wall, above a vanity table by the window.

Frame in calm tones (white, cream, pastel) — the bedroom is a place of rest, aggressive colors (black, red, bright gold) are undesirable.

Shape oval or rectangular with smooth lines — sharp corners in the bedroom are considered sources of negative energy in feng shui (even if you don't believe it, the subconscious reacts).

Frequently asked questions about framing mirrors with molding

Can you create a mirror frame without professional tools?

Yes, minimal set: plastic miter box (500 rub.), hacksaw for metal (300 rub.), tape measure, pencil, glue (300 rub.), sandpaper. Total up to 1500 rubles. The quality of cuts is worse than with a miter saw, but sufficient for a first project. The main things are accuracy, patience, precise measurements.

What glue is best for gluing frame corners?

Polyurethane (Cosmofen Plus, Moment Crystal) — sets in 30-60 seconds, maximum strength. Acrylic mounting adhesive (Moment Montage, Titan) — sets in 15-20 minutes, requires clamping, but cheaper. For critical projects — polyurethane, for budget ones — acrylic.

How much does it cost to create a frame yourself vs. buying a ready-made one?

DIY: molding 4 meters (frame perimeter 80×100 cm ≈ 3.6 m) × 800 rub./m = 2900 rub. + corner overlays 4 pcs. × 400 rub. = 1600 rub. + paint, glue, consumables 1500 rub. Total 6000 rubles + 4-6 hours of work.

Ready-made frame from catalog: 8000-25000 rubles depending on size, profile complexity, brand.

Savings of 2000-19000 rubles, but requires skills, tools, time.

Can wooden moldings be used instead of polyurethane ones?

Yes, wood is more noble and durable. But it is 2-3 times more expensive, 4-5 times heavier, and more difficult to process (requires a miter saw with a carbide blade, a sander). For large frames (120×150 cm+), weight becomes a problem — powerful fasteners are needed, the risk of tearing off the wall is higher. Polyurethane is more practical for DIY.

How to care for a mirror frame?

Wipe dust with a dry soft cloth once a month. For dirt — use a damp cloth with soapy water, then wipe dry. Do not use abrasives (they scratch the paint), solvents (they soften polyurethane). Do not rub a gilded frame hard — you may erase the gilding from the raised parts.

Can an old frame be redone by repainting it?

Yes. Sand the old paint with P180-220 sandpaper (removes gloss, creates adhesion for new paint), wipe off dust, prime, paint with a new color. A gold frame can be repainted white, white can be repainted colored, colored can be repainted gold again — polyurethane withstands multiple repaints.

Conclusion: Mirror as Art

A mirror without a frame is a utilitarian object. A mirror in a frame made of polyurethane molding is a work of interior art, a compositional center, a style carrier, a functional object of beauty. Creating such a frame with your own hands is a creative process combining calculation (mathematics of dimensions), craftsmanship (precision of cuts, quality of assembly), and artistic taste (choice of profile, painting, placement).

The result justifies the effort. Instead of a mirror for 2-3 thousand rubles, hanging on the wall as a technical element, you get a mirror in a frame for 8-12 thousand (including materials, paint, overlays), which sets the tone for the entire interior, attracts the eye, and evokes admiration from guests. This is not just saving (although compared to buying a ready-made frame for 20-30 thousand, the saving is significant), it is mastering a skill, the ability to create unique things adapted to a specific space, style, taste.

Company STAVROS — your source of materials and inspiration for creating mirror frames. Over 20 years in the architectural decor market, own production in St. Petersburg, full quality control from raw materials to the finished product.

The range of STAVROS polyurethane moldings includes over 80 profiles suitable for mirror frames. From narrow delicate ones (30-50 mm) for small mirrors in bedrooms and bathrooms, to wide massive ones (100-150 mm) for formal mirrors in living rooms and halls. Profiles of all styles: simple smooth for modern interiors, classic multi-step for neoclassicism, carved ornamental for Baroque and Empire.

STAVROS corner decorative overlays — over 100 designs from simple geometric (circles, squares, size from 40×40 mm, price from 200 rub./pc.) to complex carved (acanthus, palmettes, roses, size up to 200×200 mm, price up to 1500 rub./pc.). All overlays are white primed, ready for painting in any color.

STAVROS quality: polyurethane density 250-300 kg/m³ (optimal balance of lightness and strength), precise profile geometry (deviations less than 0.5 mm per meter of length), clear relief (ornament details worked out to 1-2 mm thickness), uniform factory priming (ready for painting or installation without additional preparation).

STAVROS prices are competitive: moldings from 300 to 1500 rub./meter (2-meter strip 600-3000 rub.), overlays from 200 to 1500 rub./pc. This is 20-40% cheaper than European brands with comparable quality. Russian production means availability — stock inventory, shipment of standard items the next day, delivery across Russia.

For professionals — designers, decorators, carpentry workshops — STAVROS provides wholesale discounts from 10% to 20%, technical project support (calculation of material quantities, selection of profiles to match the interior style), manufacturing of custom profiles to order (minimum order from 50 linear meters).

For private buyers — detailed instructions for creating frames from moldings (calculations, cutting technique, assembly, painting), consultations by phone and online chat (we help choose a profile, calculate quantity, select overlays and paint), delivery by convenient method (pickup, courier in Moscow and St. Petersburg, transport companies to regions).

Choose STAVROS — choose materials for creating frames that turn mirrors into works of art. Your interior deserves not just mirrors, but mirrors in frames that create beauty, light, space. Create! Decorate! Get inspired!