Polyurethane Furniture Molding: Overlays for Cabinets, Dressers, and Doors

IKEA furniture looks like IKEA furniture. Standard, mass-produced, recognizable from a mile away. Want to stand out? Want a simple particleboard cabinet to turn into an item worthy of a classic interior?Polyurethane molding for cabinetstransforms — carved overlays on fronts, molding frames around panels, rosettes in the centers of doors, decorative legs instead of standard supports. Result: furniture that cannot be bought in a store, unique, custom-made, stylistically cohesive with the interior.

In 2026, polyurethane furniture decor is experiencing a renaissance. The reason is simple: people are tired of faceless, standard furniture, but custom-made classic solid wood furniture with carving costs 300-800 thousand rubles for a set. The compromise is to buy a simple, quality base (cabinet, dresser, chest for 30-80 thousand) and decorate it with polyurethane overlays (5-15 thousand for a decor set). The result is furniture that is visually indistinguishable from expensive classic pieces, but at a third of the price.

This article is a practical guide to transforming ordinary furniture into classic furniture through polyurethane decor. We'll cover types of overlays and elements, choosing a design to match the style, calculating quantity and placement, gluing technology (which adhesives hold on vertical surfaces, how to avoid peeling), painting (creating a uniform color for furniture and decor, gilding, patination), specific projects (transforming a sliding wardrobe into a classic wardrobe, decorating kitchen fronts, restoring Soviet-era dressers). This is not theory, but step-by-step instructions for DIY implementation.

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Why polyurethane is ideal for furniture decor

Historically, furniture was decorated with wood carving — a craftsman carved ornaments directly into the solid wood or glued carved overlays. Expensive, time-consuming, required the skill of a cabinetmaker. In the 20th century, alternatives appeared — plaster, plastic, MDF milling. But each has drawbacks.

Comparison of furniture decor materials

Wood: noble, durable, long-lasting, but heavy (a carved overlay 150×200 mm made of oak weighs 200-300 grams), expensive (hand carving 3000-8000 rubles/element, even milled blanks 800-2000 rubles), requires processing (sanding, priming, painting take more time than the installation itself).

Plaster: traditionally used for architectural molding, but inconvenient for furniture. Fragile (breaks if dropped or hit), heavy (an overlay 150×200 mm weighs 400-600 grams — overloads cabinet doors, creates stress on hinges), not moisture-resistant (in kitchens, bathrooms, it quickly deteriorates).

Plastic (PVC, ABS): cheap, but looks cheap. Characteristic plastic shine, low relief clarity (details are blurry), deforms when heated (in the kitchen near the stove, on the sunny side, plastic warps).

Milled MDF: strong, precise, but limited in relief depth (maximum 8-12 mm vs. 20-40 mm for polyurethane), dusty during processing, requires multi-layer painting to hide the MDF texture.

Polyurethane: lightweight (an overlay 150×200 mm weighs 40-80 grams — 5-10 times lighter than wood and plaster), durable (doesn't break upon impact, doesn't crumble), moisture-resistant (suitable for kitchens, bathrooms), easy to process (cuts with a saw, glues with ordinary mounting adhesive), can be painted any color (after painting, visually indistinguishable from wood or plaster), affordable (overlays 200-1500 rubles/piece vs. 800-8000 rubles for wooden ones).

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Weight is critical for vertical surfaces

When you glue decor onto a horizontal surface (tabletop, dresser top), weight is not a problem — the element lies flat, and the adhesive mainly holds against shear. On a vertical surface (cabinet door, dresser side), weight creates a peeling force — the adhesive holds against peel, which is more difficult. A heavy wooden or plaster overlay can peel off after a few months under its own weight, even if the adhesive is high-quality.

Polyurethane weighs so little that the peeling force is minimal. The adhesive works in a comfortable mode, holds for decades without risk of peeling. This makes polyurethane ideal for furniture, where most surfaces are vertical.

Types of furniture decor: overlays, onlays, rosettes

Polyurethane furniture overlayscome in different shapes, sizes, and ornaments. Understanding the typology helps choose the right element for a specific task.

Carved overlays: central accents

Rectangular, square, or diamond-shaped elements with carved ornamentation. Sizes from 50×50 mm to 400×600 mm. Used as central accents on doors, drawers, and furniture sides.

Ornaments:

Floral — acanthus leaves, grapevines, roses, palmettes. Baroque, Rococo, Empire classics.

Geometric — meanders, rosettes, stars, diamonds, interlaces. Classicism, Art Deco, Neoclassicism.

Figurative — cherubs, putti, masks, coats of arms. Rare, used for particularly ceremonial furniture.

Application:

Cabinet door center – a 150×200 mm overlay is glued strictly in the center of the panel, creating a focal point.

Door corners – four small 50×50 mm overlays at the corners form a frame, framing the panel.

Chest of drawers drawer fronts – an 80×120 mm overlay in the center of each drawer instead of or in addition to a handle.

Furniture moldings: frames and trims

Narrow long profiled elements (width 20-60 mm, length cut to requirement). Used to create frames around panels, trim countertops, decorate door edges.

Profiles:

Simple rounded (quarter circle, bead) – minimalism, modern classic.

Multi-step (several angled planes) – classicism.

With ornament (beads, egg-shaped elements, leaves) – Baroque, Rococo.

Application:

Frames on doors – molding is glued around the perimeter of the panel, creating a recessed or protruding panel.

Chest of drawers countertop trim – molding along the edge of the countertop visually weighs it down, makes it more solid.

Vertical stripes on cabinet sides – create architectural articulation, break up the plane.

Round rosettes: point decorations

Round or oval overlays with a diameter of 30 to 150 mm with centrally symmetrical ornament (flower, sun, rosette). Used as point accents, fastener caps, composition centers.

Application:

Door center above or below the main overlay – an additional decorative layer.

Furniture corners – a rosette in the upper corners of the cabinet softens the geometry, adds sophistication.

Replacing handles – a large rosette with a diameter of 80-100 mm can serve as a handle (it is convenient to grab by the protruding parts of the ornament).

Corner elements: focus on joints

Special overlays for corners – L-shaped, T-shaped, cross-shaped. Sizes from 40×40 mm to 150×150 mm. Installed at molding joints, panel corners, on furniture edges.

Application:

Molding frame corners – instead of mitering moldings at 45° (which requires precision), a corner element is glued, hiding the joint and adding decorativeness.

Vertical cabinet ribs – corner elements every 40-60 cm in height create rhythm, break monotony.

Legs and supports: replacing standard ones

Decorative polyurethane legs replace standard plastic or metal furniture supports. Height from 50 to 200 mm, shapes – turned (imitation of lathe work), carved, in the form of animal paws, columns.

Application:

Chests of drawers and cabinets – four legs 80-120 mm high lift the furniture off the floor, create lightness, a classic look.

Sofas and armchairs – replacing standard legs with carved ones transforms modern furniture into classic.

Cabinets – low legs 50-80 mm instead of a plinth strip.

Turning standard furniture into classic: step-by-step projects

The theory is clear, let's move on to practice. Specific projects for decorating different types of furniture.

Project 1: Sliding door wardrobe into a classic wardrobe

Standard sliding door wardrobe – sliding doors made of laminated chipboard or mirrors, minimalist design. Task: turn it into a classic-looking wardrobe without replacing the doors.

Materials:

Carved overlays 200×300 mm — 4 pieces (one for each door, if there are four doors, if three — 3 pieces). Floral ornament, Baroque style. Price 800 rub./pc., total 3200 rub.

Furniture molding width 40 mm, multi-step profile — 12 meters (perimeters of frames on doors). Price 250 rub./meter, total 3000 rub.

Corner elements 60×60 mm — 16 pieces (4 corners × 4 doors). Price 300 rub./pc., total 4800 rub.

Polyurethane adhesive — 2 tubes at 300 rub., total 600 rub.

Acrylic primer — 1 liter 400 rub.

Acrylic paint ivory color — 2 liters at 600 rub., total 1200 rub.

Total materials: 13200 rubles.

Technology:

Remove the cabinet doors from the tracks, lay them horizontally on sawhorses or a table.

Mark frames on each door. Indent from the edge of the door 80-100 mm, frame rectangular, aspect ratio close to the door.

Cut the molding into segments according to the frame dimensions with a 50 mm allowance. Lay out a dry assembly (without glue), check alignment.

Glue the molding along the marking with polyurethane adhesive. Apply glue in a thin strip to the back of the molding, press to the door, secure with painter's tape for 2 hours until the adhesive sets.

Glue corner elements into the corners of the frame, concealing the molding joints.

Glue the carved overlay in the center of the frame.

Allow the adhesive to dry completely for 24 hours.

Prime the decor (moldings, overlays, corner elements) with white acrylic primer using a brush. The LDF door is not primed (or primed if you plan to paint the entire door).

Paint the decor with ivory color paint in two coats (4-hour interval). If painting the entire door — three coats of paint.

After drying (24 hours), reinstall the doors onto the tracks.

Result: the sliding wardrobe turned into a wardrobe with paneled doors, externally indistinguishable from classic furniture costing 150-200 thousand rubles. Costs 13200 rub. + 6-8 hours of work.

Project 2: Kitchen fronts from simple to classic

A kitchen with smooth MDF fronts (painted or PVC film) looks modern but bland. Task: add classic decor while preserving functionality.

Materials:

Carved overlays 80×100 mm — one for each door (if the kitchen has 12 doors — 12 pieces). Geometric or restrained floral ornament (kitchen is a workspace, excess decor complicates cleaning). Price 400 rub./pc., total 4800 rub.

Narrow molding 25 mm — 20 meters (frames on doors). Price 150 rub./meter, total 3000 rub.

Adhesive — 2 tubes, 600 rub.

Paint matching the front color (if fronts are white — white, if colored — tinted to match) — 1 liter 600 rub.

Total: 9000 rubles.

Technology:

Remove the kitchen doors, lay them horizontally.

On each door, mark a frame from molding (indent 40-60 mm from the edge) and the center for the overlay.

Glue the molding, then the overlay. Technology as in project 1.

Paint the decor to match the front color — visually the decor will become one with the door, as if originally part of the furniture.

Install the doors back.

Result: a kitchen from the mass-market segment (30-80 thousand per set) looks like a custom-made classic one (150-300 thousand). Cost: 9000 rub. + 4-6 hours of work.

Project 3: Restoration of a Soviet-era chest of drawers

An old chest of drawers from the 1970s-80s — solid wood (quality base), but the design is outdated (straight lines, minimal decor, Soviet-era varnish has yellowed). Goal: transform it into a classic piece worthy of a modern interior.

Materials:

Carved overlays 120×150 mm — 4 pieces (one for each drawer). Classic ornament, price 600 rub./pc., total 2400 rub.

Decorative legs height 100 mm — 4 pieces (to replace old low legs or a plinth strip). Price 800 rub./pc., total 3200 rub.

Molding for framing the countertop width 50 mm — 4 meters (perimeter of the countertop). Price 300 rub./meter, total 1200 rub.

Glue — 1 tube 300 rub.

Wood filler — 200 rub.

Primer — 400 rub.

Patina paint (beige base + brown patina) — 1500 rub.

Matte finish varnish — 600 rub.

Total: 9800 rubles.

Technology:

Remove the old varnish from the chest of drawers with a sander (grit P80 for coarse sanding, then P120 for finishing). Remove all the old yellow varnish, expose the wood.

Fill cracks, chips, and defects with wood filler. After drying, sand flush with the surface.

Replace the old legs with decorative polyurethane ones. Unscrew the old legs, attach the new ones with screws from the inside of the chest of drawers' bottom (screws are driven into the wood of the leg by 20-30 mm).

Glue the molding along the edge of the chest of drawers' countertop, creating a frame.

Glue the carved overlays to the center of each drawer front.

Prime the entire chest of drawers (body + drawers + decor) with white primer in two coats.

Paint with a base beige color in two coats.

Apply patina: brown paint diluted with water 1:2, with a brush into the recesses of the decor, joints, and corners of the chest of drawers. Immediately wipe the protruding parts with a damp sponge — the patina remains only in the recesses, creating an aged effect.

Apply one coat of matte varnish for protection.

Result: the Soviet-era chest of drawers has been transformed into a vintage classic piece worth (if purchased new) 40-60 thousand rubles. Actual cost: 9800 rub. + 10-12 hours of work. The chest of drawers is unique; no one else has one like it.

Glue for furniture decor: what holds forever

Choosing the right glue is critical. Furniture is used intensively — doors open and close dozens of times a day, creating vibration. Decor on vertical surfaces is subjected to pull-off forces. You need a glue with high adhesion to different materials (polyurethane + laminated chipboard, polyurethane + MDF, polyurethane + solid wood) and high pull-off strength.

Polyurethane glues: number one for furniture

Cosmofen Plus, Moment Crystal, Titebond Polyurethane Glue. One-component polyurethane glues based on isocyanates. They polymerize under the influence of air moisture, expand (increase in volume by 10-20%, filling micro-irregularities, increasing the contact area).

Advantages:

Setting time 30-90 seconds — you can hold the overlay with your hands for a minute, then release; the glue already holds.

Pull-off strength 8-12 kg/cm² — higher than most glues.

Adhesion to different materials — wood, laminated chipboard, MDF, plastic, metal.

Water resistance — suitable for kitchens, bathrooms.

Disadvantage: price 300-500 rubles per 50-75 ml tube (enough for 15-25 medium-sized overlays). However, for furniture that lasts decades, saving on glue is irrational.

Application technology:

Apply glue in a thin strip to the back of the overlay (around the perimeter + crosswise in the center).

Place the overlay onto the furniture and press firmly for 30-60 seconds.

Temporarily secure with painter's tape (crosswise over the overlay onto the furniture) or with a weight (if the surface is horizontal).

After 2 hours, the glue has fully set, and the tape can be removed.

Full strength after 24 hours.

Acrylic mounting adhesives: a budget alternative

Moment Montage, Titan, Quelyd Mastix. Water-based acrylic dispersions. White paste-like, set by water evaporation.

Advantages:

Price 150-250 rubles per 250-300 ml tube (enough for 50-80 overlays) — 3-4 times cheaper than polyurethane in terms of consumption.

No odor — can be used in enclosed spaces without ventilation.

Easily removable with water (while still wet) — if the overlay is glued crookedly, while the glue is wet, it can be removed, wiped, and re-glued.

Disadvantages:

Slow setting — 15-30 minutes of holding the overlay pressed or securing with clamps, weights, or tape is required.

Lower tensile strength — 4-6 kg/cm² (sufficient for lightweight polyurethane decor, but with less safety margin).

Not waterproof (standard versions) — for kitchens and bathrooms, special moisture-resistant versions are needed (Moment Montage Waterproof).

Technology:

Apply glue to the overlay (2-3 mm layer, evenly over the entire surface).

Place onto the furniture and press.

Secure with painter's tape crosswise in several places.

After 4-6 hours, remove the tape (the glue has set).

Full strength after 24 hours.

Adhesives that are NOT suitable

PVA (wood glue): weak adhesion to laminated chipboard and MDF (these materials have a laminate or paint film, PVA does not penetrate through it). On solid wood, PVA works, but tensile strength is low — an overlay on a vertical door may peel off after 1-2 years.

Hot glue (glue gun): fast, convenient, but strength is insufficient for durable mounting. Hot glue degrades over time (becomes brittle), softens when heated (in the kitchen near the stove, on the sunny side). Suitable for temporary fixation, prototyping, but not for permanent mounting of furniture decor.

Solvent-based liquid nails (Moment Montage Strong): strong odor (work only with ventilation), slow setting (30-60 minutes), aggressive to some plastics (may dissolve laminated chipboard laminate). Use only on solid wood and painted MDF, avoid on laminated chipboard.

Painting furniture decor: the art of unity

Polyurethane overlays come white and primed. Painting turns them into an organic part of the furniture or creates contrasting accents.

Option 1: Monochrome — decor matching the furniture color

Goal: the decor visually blends with the furniture, looks like an original part of the structure, not a glued-on detail.

Technology:

Select paint exactly matching the furniture color. If the furniture is white — white paint (the shade of white matters: pure white, milky, ivory — check on a sample). If colored — tint the paint to match (take a sample of the furniture color to a paint store, they will match the tint).

Paint the decor (already glued to the furniture) with a brush in two to three thin layers. The first layer may not fully cover the white primer — that's normal, the second will cover it.

If painting the entire furniture (repainting old or uniformly decorating new) — paint the furniture and decor simultaneously, with the same paint, in the same number of layers. The color will be identical.

Result: the decor is only revealed by its relief (play of light and shadow on the ornament), not highlighted by color. The effect is one of noble restraint, classic elegance.

Option 2: Contrast – decor in a different color

Goal: the decor stands out with color, creates an accent, graphic quality, a modern interpretation of classic style.

Examples:

White furniture + gold decor – a classic combination of palace interiors.

Gray furniture + white decor – a Scandinavian interpretation of classic style.

Dark blue furniture + bronze decor – modern luxury.

Black furniture + silver decor – Art Deco glamour.

Technology:

Paint the decor (before or after gluing – before is more convenient, you don't need to be careful around the decor, but precision is required when gluing to avoid staining the furniture with adhesive).

If painting after gluing – use painter's tape to protect the furniture around the decor (apply tape along the overlay's contour, paint the overlay, remove the tape).

Two to three coats of paint in a contrasting color.

Result: the decor is noticeable, creates visual accents, emphasizes the furniture's architecture. Suitable for bold, authorial interiors.

Option 3: Patination – an antique effect

Goal: to create the impression of antique furniture that has served for decades, accumulating a noble patina of time.

Technology:

Paint the furniture and decor with a base color (beige, cream, gray-blue – colors characteristic of antique furniture). Two coats.

Prepare the patina – dark brown or black acrylic paint, diluted with water 1:2 (consistency of liquid sour cream).

Apply the patina with a brush to the decor (especially into the recesses of the ornament), furniture corners, joints of parts, places where dirt naturally accumulates.

Immediately (after 20-30 seconds) wipe the protruding parts with a damp sponge – the patina remains in the recesses, the protrusions are clean.

Let dry for 2-4 hours. Coat with matte or semi-matte varnish for protection (patina without varnish may wear off during use).

Result: the furniture looks antique, vintage, having passed through generations. Perfect for Provence, shabby chic, French classic interiors.

Option 4: Gilding and silvering

Goal: maximum luxury, palace style, Baroque, Empire.

Technology:

Paint the decor with gold or silver acrylic paint with metallic pigment (Tikkurila Precious Gold, Dulux Metallic Silver). Two coats.

To enhance the effect: a dark base coat (brown, black), then gold applied with a dry brush (the brush is dipped in paint, wiped almost dry, applied with light strokes on the protrusions of the decor – the gold adheres only to the protrusions, the recesses remain dark, creating volume).

Patination over the gold (dark patina in the recesses) creates the effect of antique gilding.

Result: luxury, pomp, palace-like grandeur. Requires a corresponding interior (rich fabrics, crystal chandeliers, parquet) – in a simple setting it looks ostentatious.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Mistake 1: Mismatch between the scale of the decor and the furniture

Large overlays 300×400 mm on a small nightstand 60 cm high look disproportionate, overwhelm the furniture. Small overlays 50×50 mm on a large wardrobe 2.5 meters high get lost, fail to create an effect.

Rule: overlay height/width = 1/6 - 1/10 of the height/width of the facade on which it is placed. Wardrobe height 2 meters → overlays 200-300 mm high. Cabinet height 60 cm → overlays 60-100 mm.

Mistake 2: Overloading with decor

Dozens of overlays on a single piece of furniture, each door decorated with three or four elements – visual noise, bad taste. Classic style requires restraint.

Rule: no more than 1-2 decorative elements on one facade (door, drawer). Symmetry is mandatory – if there is an overlay on one door, there must be overlays on the others in the same places.

Error 3: Mixing Styles

Floral Baroque ornament + geometric Art Deco + modernist abstractions on one cabinet — an eclectic cacophony. Decor must be stylistically unified.

Rule: all decorative elements on one piece of furniture (and preferably throughout the entire interior) should be from the same style. Baroque — only Baroque. Classicism — only Classicism. Mixing styles is permissible only with very high design competence.

Error 4: Painting without Primer

Paint applied to unprimed polyurethane goes on unevenly (stains, streaks), adheres poorly (peels during use).

Rule: always prime decor before painting. The factory white primer on polyurethane overlays is sufficient, but if it is damaged (scratches, dirt) — prime again.

Frequently Asked Questions about Furniture Molding

Can polyurethane decor be glued to chipboard furniture?

Yes, polyurethane adhesives and acrylic mounting adhesives adhere well to laminated chipboard. Important: the surface must be clean (degrease with alcohol) and dry. Lightly sand glossy laminate with P180 sandpaper to improve adhesion.

Will the decor on kitchen fronts withstand frequent washing?

Yes, if the decor is painted with moisture-resistant paint and coated with varnish. Polyurethane is moisture-resistant, does not swell from water. Wash with a soft sponge and soapy water, avoid abrasives (they scratch the paint).

How much does the decor on a door weigh — will it overload the hinges?

A polyurethane overlay 150×200 mm weighs 40-80 grams. Even 4 overlays on one door = 160-320 grams. This is an insignificant load for modern furniture hinges (they support doors weighing up to 10-15 kg). Overloading is excluded.

Can the decor be removed if you get tired of it?

Yes, but it's labor-intensive. The decor is cut off with a sharp knife (carefully run the blade between the overlay and the furniture, cutting through the adhesive). Adhesive residue is removed with solvent or sanding. The furniture surface may be damaged (chipping of laminate, scratches) — it will need to be restored (filled, painted).

Is polyurethane decor suitable for modern styles (minimalism, loft, Scandinavian)?

Carved floral decor — no, that is exclusively classic. But simple geometric overlays (squares, rhombuses, circles without ornament) and moldings with a minimalist profile are suitable for transitional styles (modern classic, neoclassical, Scandinavian classic). Loft and strict minimalism do not accept decor in principle.

Can wooden overlays be used instead of polyurethane ones?

Yes, wood is more noble, more durable. But it is 3-5 times more expensive, 5-8 times heavier (overloads doors, may require hinge reinforcement), and requires more complex processing (sanding, wood primer, multi-layer painting). Polyurethane is more practical for DIY decorating.

Conclusion: Furniture as a Canvas for Creativity

Furniture does not have to be standard. Even purchased in the mass segment, it can become unique through decor.Furniture moldingmade of polyurethane is a transformation tool accessible to everyone. You don't need to be a cabinetmaker, wood carver, or restorer. Taste, care, a few hours of time, and a set of overlays, adhesive, and paint are enough.

The result exceeds expectations. A cabinet for 40 thousand looks like it's worth 150 thousand after decorating. A kitchen for 80 thousand competes with custom ones for 250 thousand. A Soviet chest of drawers from the storage room turns into a vintage find you can't buy for any money. This is not deception, not a low-quality imitation — it's using modern materials to create classic aesthetics without classic costs.

Furniture decoration is a creative process. Choosing overlays, their placement, color solutions — a space for self-expression. No one will say what's correct — correct is what you like, what suits your interior, your taste. Experiment with layout (arrange overlays on the furniture without adhesive, try options, take photos, choose the best), try colors (paint a sample overlay, see it in different lighting), don't be afraid to make a mistake (polyurethane and paint are inexpensive, you can always redo it).

Company STAVROS — your partner in furniture transformation. Over twenty years of producing decorative elements, thousands of satisfied customers, a reputation as a reliable supplier of quality materials.

The STAVROS furniture decor assortment includes over 150 models of polyurethane overlays: from miniature 40×40 mm (price from 200 rubles) to large 400×600 mm (up to 2000 rubles), from simple geometric to complex multi-figure compositions. Styles of all eras: Baroque (lush floral ornaments), Classicism (strict geometry), Art Nouveau (smooth curved lines), Art Deco (stylized symmetrical patterns).

STAVROS furniture moldings — 20+ profiles with widths from 20 to 80 mm, plank length 2 meters (cut to requirement). Price from 150 to 500 rubles/meter. Profiles from simple quarter-round to carved with beads and leaves.

STAVROS decorative legs — 15 models with heights from 50 to 200 mm, styles include turned classic, carved Baroque, lion's paws, small columns. Price from 600 to 2500 rubles/piece. Material: high-density polyurethane 350-400 kg/m³ (supports furniture weight up to 200 kg per set of 4 legs).

STAVROS quality: each overlay undergoes control for relief clarity (details up to 15-20 mm deep, detailing down to 1-2 mm element thickness), geometry (size deviations less than 1 mm), absence of defects (pits, chips, deformations — defective items are not allowed for sale). Polyurethane density 280-320 kg/m³ — optimal balance of lightness (overlay weight is minimal) and strength (does not break during installation, does not deform during use).

Factory-applied white acrylic primer - overlays are ready for painting or installation without additional preparation. Saves time, guarantees paint adhesion.

STAVROS prices are affordable: overlays from 200 to 2000 rubles (average 600 rubles), moldings from 150 to 500 rubles/meter (average 300 rubles), legs from 600 to 2500 rubles (average 1200 rubles). Decorating a cabinet with STAVROS materials costs 5-15 thousand rubles versus a 50-150 thousand ruble difference between standard and custom furniture.

For professionals - furniture makers, restorers, designers - STAVROS provides wholesale discounts from 15% to 25%, custom overlay manufacturing from sketches (minimum order 20 pieces, lead time 3-4 weeks), technical project support (calculating decor quantity, style matching, installation consultations).

For private buyers - detailed furniture decorating instructions (element selection, layout calculation, gluing technique, painting), video tutorials (visual process demonstration), consultations (help choosing overlays for your furniture, suggesting best layout options), fast delivery (warehouses in Moscow and St. Petersburg, next-day shipping, Russia-wide delivery via transport companies in 3-7 days).

Choose STAVROS - choose the ability to create unique furniture from ordinary pieces, transform standard into custom, embody classical aesthetics without classical budgets. Your furniture deserves decor. Your interior deserves individuality. Create! Decorate! Transform!