Wooden Moldings — Complete 2026 Selection Guide

Are you planning a renovation or finishing of a country house but got confused in the terminology of building materials? Have you heard the phrase 'molding products' but don't fully understand what they are and why they are needed? Then thiswooden molding products guideis created specifically for you. In 2026, wooden moldings remain one of the main tools for high-quality finishing, capable of transforming the most ordinary space into a stylish, meticulously thought-out dwelling.

Why wood specifically? Because natural wood breathes, creates a unique atmosphere of warmth and coziness, and possesses incomparable aesthetics.wood trim items— it's an entire universe of baseboards, moldings, casings, battens, handrails, balusters, and decorative profiles that close the interior contour, hide technical joints, and turn renovation into a finished composition. Without them, even the most expensive wallpaper and parquet will look incomplete.

That is precisely why understanding how to choose the right molding, from which wood species to order it, and which technical characteristics to pay attention to when purchasing — is not just theoretical knowledge, but real savings of budget, time, and nerves. Let's figure everything out in order.

Wooden molding / casing MLD-008

from 17.34 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-023

from 120.38 $

Wooden baseboard / casing / cornice PLT-006

from 16.48 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-029

from 12.57 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-033

from 10.13 $

Wooden Molding / Trim MLD-031

from 10.38 $

Wooden molding / casing MLD-040

from 16.73 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-052

from 11.84 $

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What is wooden molding and why is it measured exactly this way

The term 'molding products' comes from the unit of measurement — the linear meter. Unlike square meters (area) or cubic meters (volume), a linear meter is simply the length of a product regardless of its width and thickness. You are not buying squares of boards, but precisely meters of profiled strips with a constant cross-section along the entire length.

The main feature of molding is a fixed profile. A baseboard three meters long has an absolutely identical cross-section at every section: at the beginning, in the middle, at the end. This is not just a wooden batten, but a specially milled product with a clearly defined shape — be it a simple chamfer, a complex cove, or a multi-step carved molding.

Producing such products requires high-precision equipment. Four-sided planers (in professional circles they are called four-siders) simultaneously process a workpiece from four sides, forming the profile in one pass. CNC milling machines create complex reliefs, replicating a digital model with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter.

Why is molding needed at all? Imagine an interior without baseboards — bare joints of floor and wall, gaps through which dust penetrates. Or a door opening without casings — protruding mounting foam, uneven edges of slopes. Molding products solve utilitarian tasks (covering joints, protecting corners, hiding utilities) and simultaneously create visual completeness of the space.

In 2026, trends towards natural materials are only intensifying. Eco-friendliness, durability, the possibility of repair and restoration make wooden molding preferable to plastic or MDF analogues. Yes, wood is more expensive, but it pays off with decades of service and a noble appearance that cannot be imitated by any film.

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Types of wooden molding: from utilitarian to decorative solutions

Our factory also produces:

Wooden cornice KZ-004

from 17.82 $

Wooden Cornice KZ-001

from 25.03 $

Molding / skirting / wooden baseboard MLD-007.1

from 21 $

Wooden crown MLD-039

from 15.26 $

Wooden skirting board / molding / casing MLD-043

from 16.85 $

Wooden Molding / Door Trim MLD-050

from 17.82 $

Wooden crown molding KZ-015

from 24.54 $

Wooden crown KZ-017

from 44.56 $

View Full Product Catalog

Baseboards and ceiling moldings

Floor baseboard — the most common type of molding. Its task is to close the technological gap between the wall and the floor covering (parquet, solid wood board, laminate always leave an expansion joint for thermal expansion), protect the lower part of the wall from impacts by furniture, vacuum cleaners, and wet cleaning.

The height of modern floor baseboards varies from modest 50 mm to impressive 150 mm. Low baseboards are suitable for rooms with low ceilings — they visually do not steal height. High baseboards (100–150 mm) are characteristic of spacious rooms with ceilings from three meters — here they look organic, creating classic solemnity.

The baseboard profile can be extremely simple (a rectangle with a top rounding) or complex multi-step with chamfers, grooves, and protrusions. The classic European profile includes three zones: a flat base for tight adhesion to the wall, a central decorative part with relief, and an upper protective edge.

Ceiling baseboard (often called a cove or cornice) performs a different function. It hides the joint of the ceiling and wall, visually smooths the transition between planes, and gives the room architectural completeness. The width of ceiling cornices — from 30 to 120 mm depending on ceiling height and interior style.

Door and window casings

Casing frames the opening, covering the gap between the door frame (or window frame) and the wall. Typical casing width — 60–90 mm, thickness — 10–18 mm. The profile can be flat (minimalist interiors), rounded (classic), or carved with ornaments (palace styles).

The quality of the casing affects the perception of the entire opening. Uneven joints in corners, gaps, curvature of planks immediately catch the eye and spoil the impression even of an expensive door. Therefore, professionals pay no less attention to casings than to the door leaf itself.

Moldings and decorative strips

Molding — a profiled strip used for dividing wall planes, creating coffer panels, framing mirrors and paintings. Molding width — from 20 to 100 mm, profile — from simplest chamfers to complex multi-level reliefs with classic architectural motifs.

In classic interiors, moldings form horizontal and vertical divisions of walls. The lower third of the wall is highlighted with panels separated by battens — resulting in traditional boiserie, characteristic of European interiors of the 18th–19th centuries. Modern minimalist spaces use moldings restrainedly — one or two horizontal lines for a graphic accent.

Round molding: handrails, posts, dowels

buy round moldingis used for stair railings, furniture making, creating decorative structures. The diameter of round molding ranges from thin 10 mm (dowels for joinery connections) to massive 100–150 mm (support posts, columns).

Stair handrails — a classic example of round molding. A diameter of 45–55 mm provides a comfortable grip for an adult's palm. The surface is carefully sanded to a silky smoothness — no burrs or roughness that could injure the hand.

Round wooden trim to buycan be solid (turned from solid wood on a lathe) or finger-jointed along the length. Finger-jointed molding is cheaper, allows obtaining greater lengths (up to 6 meters), while the strength of the joint is not inferior to solid wood.

Balusters — vertical support posts

Balusters fill the space between the support posts of a stair railing, creating a physical safety barrier and a visual rhythm. Baluster cross-section — square 40×40 mm, 50×50 mm or round with a diameter of 40–50 mm.Balusters pricedepends on the wood species, complexity of the profile, and type of processing.

Turned balusters with smooth transitions, thickenings, and waists are a classic of the genre. Carved balusters with three-dimensional ornaments transform a staircase into an artistic object. Simple rectangular balusters with chamfers correspond to modern minimalist aesthetics.

Planks and beams

Batten — rectangular or square millwork without a complex profile. Width from 20 to 100 mm, thickness from 10 to 40 mm. Battens are used to create decorative wall screens (a popular trend in recent years), lathing for cladding or panels, and furniture frames.

Block — a more massive product with a square or rectangular cross-section from 30×30 mm to 100×100 mm. Used as a support, an embedded element for attaching heavy structures, or a base for assembly components.

Wood species for millwork: choosing between budget and prestige

Coniferous species: pine, spruce, larch

Pine — the most affordable material for millwork. Density 450–500 kg/m³, soft structure, easy to work with, relatively inexpensive. Pine millwork is suitable for painting with opaque enamels — wood defects (knots, resin pockets) are hidden under a layer of paint.

Disadvantages of pine — uneven texture, presence of resin pockets, low hardness. Pine baseboards scratch easily, dents from furniture impacts remain forever. Therefore, pine is more often used in technical rooms, children's rooms (where baseboards will be hit with toys anyway), and for dense painting.

Larch is harder and denser than pine (density 600–650 kg/m³), contains natural antiseptics, and is resistant to moisture and rot. Larch millwork is suitable for damp rooms (bathrooms, kitchens, saunas), exterior work (façade elements). The color of larch is warm honey-amber, with an expressive texture featuring contrasting annual rings.

Hardwood species: oak, beech, ash

Oak — the king of millwork. Density 700–800 kg/m³, Brinell hardness 3.7–4.0, expressive large-pored texture with visible medullary rays. Oak millwork will withstand decades of active use, maintaining its geometry and appearance.

The price of oak millwork is 2–3 times higher than pine, but it is a justified investment for formal areas: living room, study, hallway, dining room. Under clear varnish or oil, oak reveals the full depth of its texture — nobility tested by centuries.

Beech — a worthy alternative to oak on a limited budget. Density 650–750 kg/m³, hardness comparable to oak, but the price is 30–40% lower. Beech texture is fine-pored, uniform, light with a pinkish tint. The surface after sanding is silky, pleasant to the touch.

The only drawback of beech is sensitivity to humidity fluctuations. When wet, the wood swells; when drying, it can crack. Therefore, beech millwork is not recommended for damp rooms without high-quality waterproofing.

Ash is close to oak in strength but has a different aesthetic. Light sapwood contrasts with dark heartwood, creating a striped, graphic texture. Ash's impact toughness surpasses oak — it chips less under impact loads.

Technical characteristics of quality millwork

Wood moisture content is a critical parameter

The main enemy of wooden millwork is excessive moisture. Wood is hygroscopic, absorbing and releasing moisture depending on the room's microclimate. If millwork is made from raw wood (moisture content 18–25%), it will begin to dry out after installation.

The consequences of drying are catastrophic: gaps between planks, profile deformation, surface cracking, paint peeling. Joints that the installer fitted with millimeter precision will separate by 2–3 mm after three months. Everything has to be redone.

The standard moisture content for millwork in interior spaces is 8–12%. This moisture level is achieved through kiln drying at 60–80°C for several weeks. Properly dried wood is stable, with minimal dimensional changes (±0.5% with air humidity fluctuations within 40–70%).

How to check moisture content when purchasing? Ask the seller to measure it with a moisture meter. This is a portable device with two needles that are inserted into the wood to a depth of 10–15 mm. The display shows the percentage of moisture. If the seller refuses to measure or says there is no moisture meter — this is a warning sign.

Geometric accuracy and straightness

Millwork must be perfectly straight along its entire length. Any bends, twists (twisting along the longitudinal axis), or warping make installation a torment. A warped baseboard will not lie flush against the wall — gaps will form, which have to be filled with putty.

Checking straightness is simple: place the plank on a flat surface (table, floor), look along it as if along a sighting bar. If an arc is visible — the millwork is defective. The permissible deviation from straight for planks 2–3 meters long is no more than 2 mm.

The accuracy of cross-sectional dimensions is no less important. The width and thickness of the profile should be the same along the entire length of the plank. A variation of more than ±0.5 mm indicates low-quality processing or worn-out machine blades. When joining such planks, the seams will not align perfectly.

Wood grade and permissible defects

Wood is divided into grades based on the number and size of natural defects: knots, cracks, resin pockets, color variations. Three main grades are used for millwork.

Grade 'Extra' (or A) — no visible defects, uniform texture, perfect surface. Knots larger than 3 mm in diameter are not allowed. Color transitions are minimal. Such millwork is intended for transparent finishes (varnish, oil), where every defect will be visible.

Grade B — small sound knots up to 10 mm in diameter are allowed (no more than 2–3 per linear meter), minor tone variations, small resin pockets. Suitable for staining with subsequent varnishing — slight defects create naturalness without spoiling the overall impression.

Grade C — large knots, loose knots (which are filled with putty) are allowed, contrasting color transitions, resin pockets. Such millwork is only suitable for opaque enamel painting — all defects will be hidden under a dense layer of paint.

The price varies significantly: Grade 'Extra' is 2.5–3 times more expensive than Grade C. The choice depends on the type of finish. If you plan to paint the baseboard with white enamel — there is no point in overpaying for Grade 'Extra', Grade C will suffice. If you want to preserve the natural oak texture under oil — you cannot skimp on grade.

How to buy millwork without mistakes: a step-by-step guide

Step one: precise measurements and calculation of linear footage

Before heading to the Interior Decor Shop arm yourself with a tape measure, notebook, and calculator. Measure the perimeter of all rooms where skirting boards are planned to be installed. Record the length of each wall down to the centimeter.

Calculation example. A room 4×5 meters. Perimeter: (4+5)×2 = 18 meters. Minus the width of the doorway 0.9 meters. Total: 18 – 0.9 = 17.1 meters of skirting board. Add a 10% reserve for offcuts and possible errors when cutting corners: 17.1 × 1.1 = 18.8 meters. Round up to 19 meters.

For architraves, measure the height and width of each opening. A standard 2000×800 mm door opening requires: (2000 + 2000 + 800) × 2 = 9600 mm = 9.6 meters of architrave (considering the architrave is installed on both sides of the opening). Add a 10% reserve: 9.6 × 1.1 = 10.6 meters.

Don't forget that moldings are sold in standard-length strips (usually 2.2–2.5 meters). If you need 19 meters, and the strips are 2.2 meters, you will need 19 / 2.2 = 8.6 → round up to 9 strips. Total: 9 × 2.2 = 19.8 meters — just right with a small reserve.

Stage two: choosing the wood species for the task and budget

Decide which rooms you are finishing and what budget you are willing to spend. Formal areas (living room, study, dining room) deserve oak or ash. Bedrooms, children's rooms — beech or larch. Technical rooms (storage rooms, walk-in closets, hallways) — pine for painting.

Consider the operating conditions. Damp rooms (bathrooms, kitchens) require moisture-resistant species — larch, oak with additional waterproofing varnish or oil. Dry heated rooms — beech, ash, oak without restrictions.

The color scheme of the interior also dictates the choice. Light Scandinavian interiors harmonize with beech, ash, pine. Dark classic ones — with stained oak, walnut. Contrasting modern spaces play on the combination of light walls and dark moldings or vice versa.

Stage three: quality check at the warehouse

Be sure to inspect the actual strips before purchasing. Don't trust only the photos in the catalog — they may embellish reality. Visit the manufacturer's warehouse or a showroom with samples.

What to check:

• Moisture. Ask to measure with a moisture meter. The norm is 8–12%.

• Straightness. Place the strip on a flat surface, look along it. There should be no bends.

• Grade. Inspect the surface for knots, cracks, resin pockets. Make sure the grade matches the stated one.

• Processing quality. Run your palm over the surface. There should be no burrs, fuzz, or machine knife marks (if the molding is stated as sanded).

• Packaging. The molding should be packaged in stretch film or cardboard, protecting it from dirt and mechanical damage during transportation.

If the seller refuses to show the goods or says 'everything is packaged, cannot be unpacked' — look for another supplier. A self-respecting manufacturer will always allow samples to be inspected.

Stage four: storage conditions before installation

Purchased molding cannot be installed immediately after delivery, especially in winter. The wood must acclimate — get used to the room's temperature and humidity. Bring the packaged strips into the room where installation will take place, leave them for 3–5 days.

Store the molding horizontally on a flat surface. Do not lean the strips vertically against the wall — under their own weight they can bend and deform. Do not unpack until the moment of installation — the film protects against accidental scratches and dirt.

The room should be dry, temperature 18–24°C, air humidity 45–65%. If wet processes are ongoing in the room (plastering, floor screeding), bring the molding in only after complete drying. Otherwise, the wood will absorb excess moisture and then begin to dry out, forming cracks.

Molding installation: professional installation technology

Tools for precise work

Quality installation is impossible without the right tools. Minimum set:

• Miter saw with adjustable cutting angle. For cutting skirting boards and architraves at 45° (corners) and 90° (straight joints). A hand saw gives an uneven cut, resulting in joints with gaps.

• Screwdriver for driving screws, if using mechanical fastening.

• Pneumatic nail gun for headless finish nails — ideal for architraves and moldings where visible fasteners spoil the aesthetics.

• Laser or bubble level for checking horizontal and vertical alignment.

• Tape measure, square, pencil for marking.

• Adhesive (liquid nails, D3 class woodworking PVA) for gluing moldings to walls.

• Wood filler for sealing screw heads, minor chips, and gaps in joints.

Floor skirting board installation

Start with the longest wall. Place the first baseboard strip against the wall, mark the fastener points with a pencil. The spacing between fastener points is 40–50 cm for baseboards mounted with screws, 60–80 cm for glued baseboards.

If mounting with screws: drill holes in the wall (6 mm diameter for dowels), insert the dowels, place the baseboard, screw in 50–60 mm long screws. Sink the screw heads 2–3 mm below the wood surface, then fill with filler to match the baseboard color.

If mounting with adhesive: apply liquid nails in a zigzag pattern on the back of the baseboard, press firmly against the wall, secure with clamps or painter's tape for 12–24 hours until the adhesive cures. Adhesive only holds reliably on perfectly flat walls. If the wall has bumps, adhesive won't help; screws are needed.

In corners, baseboards are joined at a 45° angle. Internal corners (between two walls): both ends are cut at 45°, the strips meet to form a right angle. External corners (wall protrusion): cut in the opposite direction. Apply wood glue to the joints, press firmly together—after the glue dries, the seam becomes monolithic.

Installation of door casing

Casing is installed after the door frame is set. First, install the vertical strips (on the sides of the opening), then the horizontal strip (at the top). The top ends of the vertical strips and the ends of the horizontal strip are cut at a 45° angle for corner joining.

Fastening with finish nails: drive nails with a pneumatic nail gun at 25–30 cm intervals. Nails penetrate the wood of the frame by 15–20 mm, heads are almost invisible. If a pneumatic nail gun is not available, use thin 1.5×40 mm nails, hammer them in, sink the heads 2 mm deep with a nail set, and fill the holes with filler.

Alternative—adhesive. Apply liquid nails around the perimeter of the back of the casing, press firmly against the frame and wall, secure with painter's tape for 24 hours. Adhesive only works if the frame and wall are flat, without gaps.

Installation of ceiling molding

Ceiling molding is glued; screws are not used here (they spoil the appearance). The back of the molding has two contact planes: to the ceiling and to the wall. Both planes are coated with adhesive, the strip is pressed against the ceiling and wall simultaneously, and secured with painter's tape until the adhesive dries.

Joining in corners is done at a 45° angle, but with a nuance: the molding is installed at an angle to both planes, so the cut is made on a miter saw with the saw blade tilted. For an internal corner: cut the left strip with the blade tilted to the right, the right strip—to the left. If you make a mistake with the cut direction, the joint won't align.

Final finishing: painting, varnishing, staining

Surface preparation

Even pre-sanded millwork requires final preparation before painting. Inspect the surface for minor dents, scratches, and installation marks. Fill all defects with acrylic wood filler, allow to dry for 4–6 hours.

Sand the filled areas with P180–P220 grit sandpaper until completely smooth. Remove dust with a vacuum or damp cloth. Prime the entire surface with acrylic primer—it strengthens the wood, improves paint adhesion, and evens out absorbency (without primer, paint may apply unevenly, absorbing more in some areas and less in others).

Painting with opaque enamels

If the goal is to hide the wood grain and achieve a uniform, smooth surface, use polyurethane or acrylic enamels. Choose the color based on the overall interior palette. White—classic, versatile, visually lightens bulky millwork. Gray—modern, neutral. Black—dramatic, contrasting.

Apply enamel with a brush or roller in 2–3 coats with intermediate drying. The first coat—base, may apply unevenly. The second coat evens out the coverage. The third—final, creates perfect opacity. Lightly sand between coats with P320 abrasive to remove raised fibers.

Varnishing and oils for preserving wood grain

If you want to emphasize the natural beauty of the wood, use clear coatings. Water-based varnish—eco-friendly, odorless, dries quickly, doesn't yellow the wood. Apply in 2–3 coats with intercoat sanding using P320.

Polyurethane varnish creates an ultra-durable film, resistant to abrasion, moisture, and household chemicals. Suitable for high-traffic areas. Disadvantage—difficulty in local repair if the coating is damaged.

Oil-wax deeply penetrates the wood structure, strengthens the surface layer, and creates a silky matte sheen. Advantage—the wood breathes, retains tactile warmth, and damage is easily repaired locally without complete resanding. Disadvantage—requires renewal every 12–18 months in high-contact areas.

Staining with stains

Stain changes the color of the wood while keeping the grain visible. Light woods (beech, ash, pine) can be tinted to dark shades (walnut, wenge, mahogany), achieving the effect of expensive exotic wood at a budget material price.

Apply stain with a brush or sponge along the grain in an even layer. Remove excess with a rag after 5–10 minutes. Dwell time affects color intensity: the longer the stain remains on the surface before removing excess, the darker the shade. After drying (4–12 hours), always seal the color with varnish—unsealed stain fades over time and can stain hands.

Frequently asked questions and answers about millwork

Can the same millwork be used for different rooms?

Technically possible if the wood species suits the conditions of all rooms. But aesthetically undesirable—each room has its own style. A classic-style living room requires wide, profiled baseboards; a Scandinavian-style children's room—narrow, simple ones. It's better to select millwork individually for each room.

Which millwork to choose for underfloor heating?

Underfloor heating creates constant heating up to 25–28°C in the baseboard area. Wood dries out when heated, which can cause cracks. Choose stable species—oak, larch. Always use expansion gaps during installation (1–2 mm between strips) for thermal expansion. Mount the baseboard not rigidly to the floor, but to the wall—the heated floor expands more.

How much does millwork cost in 2026?

Prices depend on wood species, grade, and region. Approximately per linear meter: pine grade C — 150–250 rubles, pine grade A — 300–450 rubles, beech grade B — 500–700 rubles, oak grade A — 800–1200 rubles, ash grade A — 700–1000 rubles. Carved molding with complex profiles is 1.5–2 times more expensive than simple ones. Retail prices are indicated; wholesale prices are 20–30% lower.

How to care for wooden trim?

Regular dry cleaning with a soft cloth or vacuum with a brush attachment once a week. Damp wiping with a well-wrung cloth once a month. Do not use aggressive cleaning agents with chlorine or abrasives—they damage the finish. For oil-wax finishes, renew with special oil 2–3 times a year. Polish lacquered surfaces with furniture polishes every 3–6 months.

Can molding be made independently?

Theoretically yes, if you have a milling machine, high-quality kiln-dried wood, and carpentry skills. Practically — not cost-effective. The cost of equipment, cutters, setup time, and material waste will make homemade molding more expensive than factory-made. Factory production on modern four-sided planers provides precision and productivity unattainable in artisanal conditions.

Solid wood molding or veneered MDF — which is better?

Solid wood — natural timber, eco-friendliness, durability, possibility of restoration, noble appearance. MDF with veneer — cheaper, does not crack, does not dry out, but if damaged, the loose filler is visible, and the veneer film peels off. For living spaces, solid wood is preferable. For technical areas where molding is hidden by furniture, MDF is economically justified.

Conclusion: STAVROS company — your reliable partner in the world of wooden molding

Choosing high-quality wooden molding is not just buying a building material. It is an investment in the atmosphere of your home, in its durability and aesthetic value.wood trim itemscreate that very completeness of the interior that distinguishes professionally executed renovation from amateur work.

STAVROS company — a full-cycle manufacturer with twenty years of experience in woodworking. Own production in St. Petersburg is equipped with modern four-sided planers, CNC milling centers, and drying chambers. This allows quality control at every stage — from incoming wood inspection to final packaging of finished products.

The STAVROS catalog features over 200 profiles of molding products: floor skirting boards with heights from 40 to 150 mm, ceiling cornices with widths from 30 to 120 mm, door architraves from 50 to 100 mm, decorative moldings with profiles from simple to multi-stage carved, slats of various sections for decorative screens,round moldingwith diameters from 10 to 150 mm,balusters for staircasesturned and carved.

Wood species: pine (budget option for painting), spruce, birch, larch (for damp rooms), oak (premium segment), ash, beech. Grades from 'Extra' to C — each customer chooses the optimal price-quality ratio for their tasks.

Allwood trim itemsundergo kiln drying to a moisture content of 8–12%, guaranteeing geometric stability after installation. Processing precision — tolerance ±0.3 mm on cross-sectional dimensions. The surface is sanded with abrasives of grit P120–P180, ready for final painting without additional preparation.

STAVROS offers not only standard catalog profiles but also custom production according to customer drawings. Minimum order for non-standard profiles — 50 linear meters. For designers, architects, and construction companies, a loyalty program with wholesale prices and priority production times is available.

Delivery is organized to St. Petersburg, Moscow, all of Russia, and CIS countries. Molding is packaged in stretch film, placed on pallets, and delivered by company transport with guaranteed safety. Upon receiving the order, the client can inspect each plank to ensure there are no defects. If defects are found — immediate replacement at no additional cost.

STAVROS showrooms in St. Petersburg and Moscow are open for visits. Samples of all profiles are displayed here; you can compare different wood species, assess processing quality, and select optimal solutions for a specific project. Consultants will help calculate the required amount of molding considering corners and offcuts, suggest finishing options, and organize delivery to the site.

STAVROS product quality is confirmed by compliance certificates, many years of experience (the company has been operating since 2005), and thousands of completed projects — from private apartments and country houses to commercial facilities: hotels, restaurants, office centers, public buildings.

Buying wooden molding products from STAVROS is a choice in favor of reliability, durability, and aesthetic perfection. This is molding that will not dry out after three months, will not warp, will not develop gaps. Molding that in ten years will look as dignified as on the day of installation. It is an investment in the quality of your home, in the beauty of the space, in that very sense of completeness when every interior detail is in its place and executed flawlessly.

Contacts: phone 8 (800) 555-46-75, official website stavros.ru. Addresses of showrooms, warehouses, current prices, full catalog with photos — all on the company's website. Call, visit, choose — STAVROS will turn your project into reality, where every linear meter works for the beauty and functionality of the interior.