Wooden Architrave: Beauty and Functionality

A door without casing is like a painting without a frame. A window without trim is like an unfinished thought.Wooden casing— is an element that transforms a technical opening into an architectural detail. It conceals the mounting gaps between the frame and the wall, protects against drafts, provides a finished look, and creates a stylistic accent.

Why wood? Because it is a material with a history spanning millennia. Wooden casings adorned Russian huts, European mansions, and American cottages. They were hand-carved, turning into works of folk art. Today, technology has changed, but the essence remains:solid wood casing— is the nobility of natural material, the warmth of texture, the possibility of carving, patination, and painting in any color.

Choosing casing seems simple: a strip around the perimeter of the opening. But behind this simplicity lie many nuances. Profile width, shape, wood species, mounting method, compatibility with the door and wall. A mistake leads to the casing either disappearing or dominating, disrupting the visual balance. The right choice creates harmony, where every element is in its place.

Wooden skirting board / door casing PLT-005

from 19.66 $

Wooden molding / casing MLD-040

from 16.73 $

Wooden skirting board / molding / casing MLD-043

from 16.85 $

Wooden baseboard / casing PLT-003

from 39.43 $

Skirting Board / Door Architrave PLT-004

from 25.03 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-052

from 11.84 $

Wooden Molding / Door Trim MLD-050

from 17.82 $

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The purpose of casing: more than just decor

Wooden casingsperform several functions simultaneously. Understanding these functions helps in making an informed choice.

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Covering the installation gap

There is always a gap between the door or window frame and the wall. This is a technical necessity: the frame cannot be placed flush against the opening—there needs to be allowance for level adjustment and to compensate for wall irregularities. The gap is filled with mounting foam, which is trimmed after curing but remains visible—gray, porous, and unaesthetic.

Casing completely conceals this gap. Its width is typically 60-100 mm, which is sufficient to cover a 15-30 mm gap on each side of the frame. Thus, the technical element becomes a visually clean outline. The opening looks neat, professional, and finished.

Without casing, the opening looks unfinished and cheap. Even if the foam is trimmed evenly and plastered over, the joint between the frame and the wall will always be noticeable.Baseboardradically eliminates this problem.

Our factory also produces:

Wooden molding / casing MLD-008

from 17.34 $

Carved casing NL-14

from 40.90 $

Carved casing NL-16

from 51.89 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-023

from 120.38 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-029

from 12.57 $

Wooden Molding / Baseboard MLD-033

from 10.13 $

Wooden Molding / Trim MLD-031

from 10.38 $

Wooden skirting board / door casing PLT-005

from 19.66 $

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Protection against drafts and dust

Mounting foam is a good thermal insulator, but over time it deteriorates under the influence of ultraviolet light, moisture, and mechanical stress. Without protection, the foam crumbles, forming microcracks through which cold air passes in winter and dust passes year-round.

Casing creates an additional barrier. It presses the edges of the frame against the wall, sealing the connection. If sealant is applied under the casing, an almost airtight seal is achieved. This is especially important for entrance doors and windows, where thermal insulation is critical.

In old houses with wooden windows,Wooden trimwere the only protection against drafts. They were nailed over gaps caulked with tow. Today, this function is secondary but has not disappeared.

Stylistic function: the language of interior

Casing is one of the elements that shape the style of a room. Its shape, width, color, and finish must match the overall concept. A classic interior requires wide, profiled casings with carving or patina. Modern minimalism requires narrow, flat strips without decoration. Provence requires light casings with a distressed effect.

Casings on all doors and windows in a room should be identical. A mix of styles creates visual chaos. If one room has classic carved casings and the adjacent room has minimalist flat ones, it creates a sense of unfinished design.

Casing color is determined by the door color or the overall color scheme. The casing can match the door—this is a classic solution that creates integrity. It can contrast with the wall—a dark casing on a light wall or vice versa. It can be painted the same color as the wall—then the door is perceived as a standalone object.

Visual proportion correction

WideWooden casingvisually enlarges the opening, making it more significant. This is useful when the door is narrow or gets lost on a large wall. A 100-120 mm wide trim adds weight to the opening, making it noticeable.

Narrow casing—40-60 mm—minimizes the visual presence of the opening. This is needed when there are many doors, and wide casings would create clutter. Or when the door is in a corner, and there is physically no space for wide casing.

The profile shape also affects perception. A flat rectangular casing is neutral. A profiled one with curves and beads creates a play of light and shadow, adding volume. A carved casing attracts attention, making the opening a focal point.

Types of Architraves: From Simplicity to Complexity

Varietywooden architravesis enormous. Classification is based on several parameters: profile shape, mounting method, material, purpose.

Flat casings: minimalism of form

A flat architrave is a rectangular strip without profiling. Cross-section 60×10 mm, 70×12 mm, 80×15 mm. The front surface is smooth, without relief. Edges may have a slight bevel for a soft transition to the wall.

The advantage of flat architraves is versatility and low price. They suit any style, do not attract attention, simply perform the function of framing. Ideal for modern interiors where clean lines and absence of decoration are important.

FlatSolid wood door casingsare good for painting. The smooth surface paints easily, paint applies evenly, does not accumulate in recesses. Any color from the RAL catalog can be obtained, perfectly matching the color of walls or doors.

Disadvantage — visual simplicity. In a classic or rich interior, a flat architrave looks poor, out of place. It lacks volume, play of light, decorativeness.

Profiled architraves: classic forms

A profiled architrave has a complex cross-section consisting of several elements: shelves, coves, beads, ogees. The profile is milled on a machine, creating a three-dimensional relief. Width of such architraves 70-100 mm, thickness 18-25 mm.

The profile creates a play of light and shadow on the surface of the architrave. Depending on the lighting, the relief is revealed differently: in the morning, when the light is slanted, shadows are deeper; during the day with overhead light — softer. This adds dynamics, liveliness.

Profileddoor casingsare universal. They suit classical, neoclassical, traditional interiors. Can be painted, tinted, patinated. The complexity of the profile determines the degree of decorativeness: a simple two-element profile is restrained, a multi-element one with deep coves — luxurious.

Installation of profiled architraves requires precision. Corners are mitered at 45 degrees, the profile must join perfectly, without steps. Even a millimeter shift is noticeable.

Carved architraves: art in wood

A carved architrave is a sculptural work. The surface is covered with relief carving: plant ornaments, geometric patterns, figurative elements. Every centimeter is elaborated, creating depth, drama.

Making carved architraves is labor-intensive. The base profile is milled on a machine, then a master carver elaborates the details by hand. Leaves with veins, flowers with petals, curls with smooth transitions — all this requires hours of work. Therefore carvedWooden trimare expensive.

Carved architraves are appropriate in classical, baroque, Russian interiors. They create an atmosphere of luxury, historical depth. On the facades of wooden houses, carved architraves are an element of house carving, folk art.

In modern minimalist interiors, a carved architrave is a provocation. One carved architrave in a loft or high-tech space can be an outrageous accent, a demonstration of eclecticism. But this requires design flair, otherwise it becomes kitsch.

Telescopic architraves: hidden mounting

A telescopic architrave has a longitudinal groove on the back side that fits onto a protrusion of the door frame. Mounting occurs through friction and snapping, without nails and screws. This creates a visually clean surface without fasteners.

The advantage of telescopiccasingsis aesthetics and adjustability. If the wall width is greater than the frame width, an additional strip — an extension jamb — can be used. The architrave fits over it, hiding the entire structure.

Installation of telescopic architraves is faster and cleaner. No need to drill, hammer nails, putty screw heads. Fit, snap — done. Dismantling is also simple: removed the architrave, replaced it, put it back.

Disadvantage — width limitations. A telescopic architrave works only with a telescopic frame. Not suitable for ordinary frames. The second point — price. Telescopic systems are more expensive than ordinary ones.

Materials: solid wood vs MDF

Wooden casings create a frame around the opening, visually highlighting it from the wall plane. A classic casing has a profiled section that corresponds to the profiles of baseboards and moldings.are made from solid wood or MDF. Each material has features, pros, cons.

Solid wood: nobility of nature

Architraves made from solid oak, beech, ash, pine — this is classic. Natural wood has a unique texture, each strip is individual. Annual rings, pores, medullary rays create a living pattern that cannot be imitated.

Oak — the king among species. Density 700 kg/m³, hardness high, texture expressive. Oak architraves last for decades, do not deform, do not crack. Color from light golden to dark brown when stained. Under oil, the oak texture is revealed in all its glory.

Beech — strong and uniform. Density 650 kg/m³, texture fine-pored without a pronounced pattern. This makes beech ideal for painted projects. Paint on beech applies evenly, does not emphasize pores. Any color, smooth surface can be obtained.

Ash is light and contrasting. The texture, with alternating dark and light rings, creates a dynamic pattern. AshSolid wood casingsare popular in Scandinavian and eco-interiors. They add light and freshness.

Pine is a budget option. Density 450-500 kg/m³, the wood is soft, with a texture featuring knots and resin channels. Pine architraves are cheap but less durable. Suitable for cottages, temporary housing, and budget projects.

The disadvantage of solid wood is its reaction to humidity. Wood swells in a humid environment and shrinks in a dry one. This can lead to deformation and gaps at joints. High-quality drying of the wood to 8-10% moisture content and a protective coating of oil or varnish are required.

MDF: stability and paintability

MDF is medium-density fiberboard. It is produced from finely ground wood fibers, pressed under pressure with the addition of binders. The material is homogeneous, has no texture, and does not react to humidity as actively as solid wood.

AdvantageMDF architraves— geometric stability. The strip does not twist or warp, maintaining its dimensions. Corners join perfectly, and gaps do not appear. This is especially important for painted architraves, where any deformation creates cracks in the paint.

Painting MDF gives a flawless result. The surface is primed, and paint is applied in several layers with intermediate sanding. The finish is smooth, even, and in any color. Under paint, MDF is indistinguishable from solid wood.

MDF is lighter than solid wood. This simplifies installation and reduces the load on fasteners. MDF architraves can be fixed with adhesive, without nails—the adhesive holds reliably, and no fasteners are required.

The disadvantage of MDF is the lack of texture. Under a transparent finish, MDF looks artificial. Therefore, MDF is always painted or veneered. The second point is lower prestige. It is not natural wood, not solid. For expensive projects, MDF is not suitable.

Veneered MDF: a compromise

Veneered architraves are an MDF base covered with a thin layer of natural veneer from oak, ash, or walnut. This combines the stability of MDF with the texture of natural wood. The price is lower than solid wood but higher than painted MDF.

Veneer is glued to the front and end surfaces. Visible parts look like solid wood. The back side is MDF, but it is not visible. The veneer is coated with varnish or oil, like solid wood. The texture is visible, and the color is natural.

VeneeredDoor and window casings— a reasonable choice for projects where the aesthetics of solid wood are needed without its price and caprices. They are stable, beautiful, and durable.

Architrave styles: adaptation to the interior

Wooden casingmust match the style of the room. Dissonance destroys harmony.

Classic: proportions and profiles

Classical architraves are wide—90-120 mm, profiled, with several relief elements. The profile is symmetrical, proportions are mathematically precise. Color is natural wood or dark stain. Light patina in the profile recesses is possible.

Material—solid oak or beech. The texture is emphasized with transparent oil or matte varnish. Carving is possible but restrained—laurel wreaths, meanders, beads. Not baroque opulence, but classical severity.

ClassicSolid wood door casings- combined withbaseboardsandmoldingsof the same profile. This creates stylistic unity when all elements speak the same architectural language.

Art Nouveau: Fluidity and Asymmetry

Modernist architraves have smooth curved lines, stylized plant motifs. Width is medium—70-90 mm, profile with soft transitions. Carving is light, relief, depicting irises, lilies, climbing stems.

Colors are natural: light wood, silver-gray, greenish. Gilding is rare, and if present, it is matte. Modernist architraves create a romantic mood, good for bedrooms, boudoirs, artistic spaces.

Provence and country: rustic simplicity

Architraves in Provence or country style are simple, without excesses. Width 60-80 mm, profile minimal or completely flat. Color light: white, cream, light gray, whitewashed oak. Surface with a distressed effect, brushing, light patina.

The wood looks as if it has served for decades, faded in the sun, worn from touch. This effect is created intentionally: brushing removes soft fibers, revealing texture; patina is applied and partially wiped off; paint is rubbed into the pores.

Architraves in Provence style combine withwooden decorative elementssimple forms, floral textiles, vintage furniture. They create an atmosphere of coziness, rural leisure.

Minimalism: form without ornamentation

Minimalist architraves are narrow—40-60 mm, flat, rectangular cross-section. No profile, no carving. Only pure geometry. Color white, gray, black, or natural light wood under matte oil.

Fastening is hidden—with adhesive or telescopic. No visible nails or heads. The surface is perfectly smooth, edges with a minimal chamfer. Corners join with jeweler's precision; gaps are unacceptable.

MinimalistWooden casingsdo not attract attention. They simply clearly frame the opening, creating a contour. But this very restraint is the sophistication of minimalism.

Door framing: technical features

A door opening is framed with trim on three sides: two vertical jambs and a top horizontal rail. The fourth side—the threshold—is usually without trim, although in classic interiors, a threshold trim is possible.

Material quantity calculation

Standard door height is 2000 mm, width 800-900 mm. Trim is installed with a small offset from the edge of the frame—5-10 mm. This creates a visual frame.

To frame one side of an opening, you need: two vertical rails of 2200 mm each (with allowance for cutting) and one horizontal rail of 1000-1100 mm. Total about 5.5 linear meters per side. For a double-sided door—multiply by two, resulting in 11 meters.

Standard lengththe wooden skirting board— 2200 mm. This is the optimal length for vertical jambs without joints. For the horizontal rail, the remainder is sufficient or a separate short rail is taken.

When purchasing, take a 10-15% surplus. Corners are cut at 45 degrees; defects may occur during cutting, and measurement errors are possible. It's better to have a reserve than to search for an exact matching trim later.

Corner cutting: joint precision

Trim corners are joined at 45 degrees. This is a classic solution, creating a beautiful joint where the profile smoothly transitions from vertical to horizontal. Cutting is performed on a miter saw with an accuracy of up to 0.1 degrees.

For flat trims, a straight butt joint at 90 degrees is possible: the horizontal rail is laid on the vertical ones. This is simpler to execute but less aesthetically pleasing. The joint is noticeable, lacking smooth transition.

After cutting, corners should join without gaps. Even a millimeter gap is noticeable, especially on painted trims. If a gap exists—it is filled with putty, sanded, and touched up. But it's better to cut accurately from the start.

Methods of mounting

Trims are attached to the door frame, not to the wall. This is important: the wall may be uneven, crooked. The frame is leveled—attach to it. There are several fastening methods.

Finish nails—classic method. A nail with a diameter of 1-1.5 mm, length 40-50 mm is driven through the trim into the frame. The head is countersunk 1-2 mm, the hole is filled with putty or covered with a wax pencil matching the wood tone. Nail spacing 400-500 mm.

Adhesive—modern method. Mounting adhesive like liquid nails is used. Adhesive is applied to the back of the trim in a zigzag pattern, the trim is pressed against the frame, secured with painter's tape until the adhesive dries. After 24 hours, the tape is removed. Fastening is invisible, but removal is difficult.

Screws—for MDF trims. A screw is driven from the front side, the head is countersunk, covered with a decorative cap. Reliable method, but caps are visible.

Telescopic connection—for telescopic trims. The trim groove fits onto the frame protrusion, snaps into place. No fasteners needed. Easy removal.

Window framing: specifics and differences

Window trims have features compared to door trims. A window is framed on four sides. The window is in a reveal; the trim is attached either to the reveal or directly to the frame.

Interior window trims

Interiortrims for windowsare installed on the interior side. They frame the reveal, conceal the mounting gap between the frame and wall. Width 60-90 mm, profile usually flat or slightly profiled.

Attachment to the reveal or to the frame. If the reveal is plastic or drywall, attach with adhesive or screws with caps. If the reveal is plastered, nails can be used, but carefully—plaster may crack.

The windowsill is considered the lower trim of the window. An additional trim under the windowsill is usually not installed. But in classic interiors, a lower trim framing the windowsill from below is possible, creating compositional completeness.

Exterior window trims

Exterior trims are installed on the facade side. This is an element of facade decor, a tradition of wooden architecture. Carved trims adorned windows of Russian huts, turning the facade into a work of art.

Modern exteriorWooden trimtrims are usually simpler. Flat or with a slight profile, painted with weather-resistant paints. They protect the mounting seam from precipitation, UV rays, and give the facade completeness.

Attachment of exterior trims—with galvanized screws or nails. Wood must be treated with antiseptics, protective compounds. Without protection, wood on the facade darkens, rots, deteriorates within 3-5 years.

Trim installation: step-by-step instructions

Installationwooden moldingrequires care. Errors lead to gaps, misalignments, visual discomfort.

Preparation and marking

Start with a check: is the door frame installed strictly vertically? Use a level. If the frame is misaligned, the trim will not hide it but emphasize it. The frame must be leveled before installing the trim.

Determine the casing setback from the edge of the door frame. The standard is 5-10 mm. Mark this line with a pencil around the perimeter of the frame. The inner edge of the casing will follow this line.

Measure the height and width of the trim. Height is from the floor to the top horizontal rail. Width is along the top rail between the vertical stiles. Note that the corners are mitered at 45 degrees, so the rail length is measured along the inner edge, not the outer.

Cutting and fitting

Cut the vertical stiles. The bottom end is square, the top end is at a 45-degree angle. The cut direction is determined by the side: the left stile is cut with a slope to the right, the right stile to the left. The cut is made with a miter saw or a miter box with a fine-toothed saw.

Cut the horizontal rail. Both ends are at 45 degrees, mirrored. The rail length is the distance between the inner edges of the vertical stiles plus twice the width of the casing (to compensate for the angle).

Place the rails against the opening without fastening, check the corner joints. The corners should meet perfectly, without gaps or steps. If there is a small gap, sand the end with sandpaper. If the gap is large, recut.

Fastening

Start with one vertical stile. Place it against the frame, aligning the inner edge with the marking. Secure it at several points with finish nails or glue. If using nails, the first nail at the top, the second at the bottom, then intermediate ones spaced 400-500 mm apart.

Install the second vertical stile symmetrically. Check that both stiles are vertical and at an equal distance from the edges of the frame.

Install the horizontal rail. Align the mitered corners with the corners of the vertical stiles, press, and secure with nails. The corners should fit tightly. If using glue, secure the rail with painter's tape until dry.

If the bottom side of the opening is also trimmed (rare for doors, common for windows), install the bottom horizontal rail similarly to the top one.

Final finishing

If nails were used, their heads are visible. Sink the heads 1-2 mm with a nail set. Fill the holes with wood putty matching the casing color. Sand with fine sandpaper after drying.

If the casing is solid wood with a transparent finish, use a wax pencil or tinted wood putty. Fill the holes, smooth, and polish with a soft cloth. The holes will become almost invisible.

Corner joints, if there are micro-gaps, are also filled. For painted casings, use putty; for transparent finishes, use tinted putty. After sanding, touch up or tint the filled areas so they don't stand out.

Combination with other elements: interior integrity

Wooden casingdoes not exist in isolation. It is part of a systemmolding products: baseboards, moldings, cornices.

Combination with baseboards

Casing andSkirtingmeet in the corner of the room near the door. The joint should be neat. Options: the casing extends to the floor, and the baseboard is cut to fit under it; or the casing ends at the height of the baseboard, and the baseboard is cut at an angle and joined to the casing.

Ideally, the casing and baseboard are of the same wood species, same finish, and similar profile. This creates visual unity. A mismatch in styles—such as a classic wide casing with a modern narrow baseboard—creates dissonance.

Combination with moldings

Moldingson walls and casings often have similar profiles. If there are molding frames on the walls framing panels or paintings, it is logical to use casings of the same or similar profile. This creates rhythm, repetition of form, and architectural logic.

In classic interiors, moldings and casings are often designed as a unified system. The profile is repeated, the scale is coordinated, and the color is identical. This approach requires planning, but the result is a cohesive space where every element is in place.

Combination with the door

The color and style of the casing should match the door. The classic solution is a casing in the same color as the door. A walnut door—walnut casing. A white door—white casing. This creates integrity, and the door unit is perceived as a single object.

A contrasting solution is a casing that contrasts with the door but coordinates with the wall. A white door, dark casing, light wall. Or a dark door, light casing, dark wall. Contrast highlights the opening, making it an accent.

The width of the casing affects the perception of the door. A narrow casing minimizes the framing, making the door look modern and concise. A wide casing creates formality and classic monumentality.

Frequently asked questions about wooden casings

What is the optimal casing width for a standard door?

For a standard interior door with a height of 2000 mm and a width of 800 mm, the optimal width isskirting board70-90 mm. This is sufficient to cover the mounting gap and create a visually balanced frame. For main entrance doors or high ceilings, a width of 100-120 mm can be used.

Can wooden architraves be painted?

Yes,Solid wood door casingsThey paint excellently. The surface is sanded, primed, and 2-3 coats of paint are applied with intermediate sanding. Use acrylic paints for interior work. Any color from the RAL catalog can be obtained. The finish is a matte or semi-matte varnish for protection.

How to join architraves at corners?

The standard method is a 45-degree miter cut. Both architraves are cut at an angle and joined, forming a right angle with a smooth profile transition. For flat architraves, a straight 90-degree butt joint is possible: one architrave is cut flush against the other. This is simpler but less aesthetically pleasing.

Do wooden architraves need to be treated with protective compounds?

QualityWooden casings create a frame around the opening, visually highlighting it from the wall plane. A classic casing has a profiled section that corresponds to the profiles of baseboards and moldings.They are supplied treated with oil or varnish. Additional treatment is not required. But if the architraves will be used in damp rooms or on the facade, an additional layer of moisture-protective compound is beneficial. Use oil with wax or yacht varnish.

How to choose an architrave color to match the interior?

The architrave color should harmonize with the door color and the overall color scheme. The classic option is an architrave matching the door color. The contrasting option is an architrave that contrasts with the door but coordinates with the wall orbaseboards. Also consider the color ofmolding, crown moldings, other wooden elements.

How many meters of architrave are needed for one door?

For framing one side of a standard door, about 5.5 linear meters are needed: two vertical strips of 2.2 m each and one horizontal strip of 1.1 m. If the door is double-sided — 11 meters. Take a 10-15% surplus for miter cuts and possible errors.

What is the difference between a telescopic architrave and a regular one?

A telescopicBaseboardhas a longitudinal groove on the back that fits onto a protrusion on the door frame. It attaches without nails or screws, by snapping into place. Advantages — a visually clean surface, possibility of demounting. Disadvantages — only works with telescopic frames, more expensive than regular ones.

Can the same architrave be used for doors and windows?

Yes, if the style and dimensions are suitable. Often, for interior unity, the sameWooden trimare used for doors and windows. This creates integrity, rhythm, and repetition of form. It is important that the architrave width corresponds to the opening size.

How to care for wooden architraves?

Dust with a dry, soft cloth once every 1-2 weeks. Perform wet cleaning with a slightly damp cloth once every 2-3 months. Do not use aggressive cleaning agents. Renew oiled finishes every 2-3 years with a thin layer of oil. Painted finishes do not require renewal if the paint is not damaged.

Where to buy quality wooden architraves?

Choose manufacturers with experience, reputation, and a wide range. The company STAVROS has been producingarchitraves from solid oak, beech, ashfor over 23 years. Dozens of profiles from flat to carved. Any finish. Delivery across Russia. Showrooms in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Conclusion: When Details Create a Whole

Wooden casingis a detail. But it is the details that create the interior. You can buy expensive furniture, do quality renovations, but if the architraves are cheap plastic, the interior loses its nobility. And vice versa: quality wooden architraves ennoble even a simple space.

Wood lives in the interior. It breathes, changes shade under sunlight, retains the warmth of touch.Solid wood casingsover the years do not look new — they acquire a patina of time, become part of the home's history.

The right choice of architrave requires knowledge. You need to understand styles, know about wood species, and consider the proportions of the opening and room. But the result justifies the effort. A door or window opening framed by a quality wooden architrave becomes an architectural element, not just a technical necessity.

The company STAVROS has been creatingarchitraves from solid oak, beech, ash. The range includes over 50 profiles of various styles, widths, and complexity. From minimalist flat strips 40 mm wide to carved classic architraves 120 mm wide.

All lumber undergoes kiln drying to 8-10% moisture content. This guarantees dimensional stability and prevents warping. Profiling is performed on European equipment with an accuracy of up to 0.1 mm. Corners join perfectly, without gaps or steps.

Carved elements are cut on 3D machines with subsequent manual refinement. Master carvers work on the details, create depth of relief, and give individuality to each piece. CarvedWooden trimby STAVROS are works of art capable of decorating any interior.

Finishing is done with natural compositions. Linseed-based oils highlight the grain, protect from moisture, and give a silky surface. Stains create a rich palette of shades from light honey to black ebony. Varnishes are acrylic, eco-friendly, and odorless.

For painted projects, premium-grade primers and paints are used. Any color from the RAL catalog. Patination creates an antique effect. Brushing reveals the wood grain. Each finishing technique expands design possibilities.

STAVROS offers comprehensive interior solutions. Casing trims are combined withsolid wood skirting boards, moldings, wooden cornices, decorative inlays. A unified style, coordinated profiles, and identical finishing create interior integrity.

Custom orders are executed based on client sketches. If standard profiles don't fit — we'll develop a unique one. If a non-standard length is needed — we'll manufacture up to 4 meters. If a special finish is required — we'll implement it. Production time is 2-4 weeks.

Specialist consultations will help choose the optimal profile. Tell us about your interior style, opening dimensions, and color preferences. Specialists will recommend suitable options, calculate material quantity, and agree on cost and timelines.

Delivery to Moscow, St. Petersburg, all of Russia, and CIS countries. Casing trims are packed in cardboard boxes or stretch film. Carved elements are protected with soft padding. Delivery via transport companies with tracking.

STAVROS showrooms in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Here you can see casing trims in person, touch the wood, assess the quality of profiling and carving, and compare various finishing options. Consultants will assist with selection and process your order.

Create an interior where every detail is considered. WhereSolid wood door casingsdon't just hide gaps but shape style, create rhythm, and unify the space. Complement them withbaseboards, moldings, cornices— achieve a holistic architectural solution.

Choose quality tested by time. Choose natural wood from STAVROS — and your home will gain a character that cannot be bought ready-made. A character born from respect for the material, for the craft, for the traditions of woodworking. Visit the STAVROS catalog. Explore the profilescasings. Find what matches your vision for the interior. Contact us — tell us about your project. We'll help bring it to life in wood. A material that holds the warmth of centuries, remembers the hands of the master, and serves generations.