Article Contents:
- What is a door casing and why is it needed
- How casing differs from molding
- Door casing materials: solid wood, MDF, polyurethane
- Surface finishing options
- Profiles and styles of door casings
- Sizes and proportions
- Advantages of purchasing casings individually
- Calculating the required quantity
- Installation of door casings: installation technology
- Corner joining: professional installation nuances
- Combining casings with other interior elements
- Casings and door leaf: combination rules
- Special cases: non-standard openings and solutions
- Door of what: terminology clarification
- Stylistic solutions: From classic to modern
- Carved casings: the art of framing
- Door casing care: preserving beauty
- Updating casing finishes
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusion: framing as the art of detail
Have you ever noticed how a door opening without framing gets lost against the wall? Like an unfinished thought in the middle of a sentence, it creates a sense of incompleteness, randomness. Doors become merely functional openings for moving between rooms, nothing more. Yet they could be architectural accents, elements that organize space and give character to the interior. What transforms a bland opening into an expressive design element? Proper door framing—moldings, casings, decorative trim—that can be selected individually, purchased piece by piece, creating exactly the solution your interior needs.
The times when you had to buy casings in sets for a specific door are becoming a thing of the past. The modern approach is choosing interior door decor independently of the door leaf manufacturer. You buy neutral doors without factory edging and select casings for them from the catalog of a specialized decorative elements manufacturer. This opens up limitless possibilities for creating a unique interior, where moldings for interior doors become a tool for personalizing space.
What is a door casing and why is it needed
An MDF or solid wood door casing is a trim strip that frames the door opening around its perimeter. It is installed on the wall around the door frame, covering the joint between the frame and wall finish. Casing width varies from 50 to 150 mm, thickness from 10 to 25 mm, with standard length of 2000-2200 mm. The profile can be flat, rounded, shaped, with ornamentation, or smooth.
The functions of casing are diverse. Decorative—the primary and obvious one. Casing turns a technical opening into a finished architectural element. It creates a visual frame that draws attention to the door, emphasizing its importance in the interior.Door Frame TrimIt sets the style, scale, and character of the space.
The practical function is no less important. When installing a door, a technological gap forms between the frame and the wall, often uneven, with visible mounting elements. Casing conceals all this, creating a neat junction. Wallpaper edges, joints of various finishing materials, plaster chips—all are masked under the decorative strip. Casing protects the wall edge from damage when moving furniture or impacts from door handles during sudden opening.
There is also a soundproofing role. The gap between the frame and the wall, even filled with foam, remains a weak point in sound insulation. Casing, tightly fitted to the wall and frame, additionally blocks sound transmission paths. The difference isn't colossal, but in a bedroom or study, every decibel of noise reduction matters.
How casing differs from molding
Confusion in terminology often arises. Are moldings for interior doors and casings the same or different elements? Casing is a specialized element designed specifically for framing door and window openings. It has certain proportions that account for typical frame widths and standard opening sizes. The back side of casing often has compensation grooves to prevent warping.
Molding is a more universal decorative profile. Moldings are used to create wall panels, ceiling compositions, framing mirrors, paintings, and any decorative purposes. Molding can also be used to frame a door opening, becoming a functional casing in this case. The difference is more about specialization than fundamental design.
Trim products made of oak, beech, and MDFinclude both architraves and mouldings in a single catalog. Many profiles are universal — suitable for both doors and walls. The choice depends on width (for doors, typically 60-100 mm), mounting method (architraves often have mounting grooves), and the presence of corner and joining elements (doors require 45° corner elements).
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Materials for door architraves: solid wood, MDF, polyurethane
The traditional material is solid wood. Oak, beech, ash, walnut — noble species create premium-class architraves. Solid wood has a natural texture, unique grain pattern, and tactile warmth. A wooden architrave can be restored multiple times — sanded, repainted, and damages repaired. With proper care, its service life spans decades.
Disadvantages of solid wood — sensitivity to humidity and temperature fluctuations. Wood may slightly deform with changes in microclimate and requires stable conditions. The price of oak or beech solid wood is significantly higher than alternative materials. The weight of wooden architraves requires reliable fastening, especially for wide profiles.
MDF door architraves are a popular alternative to solid wood. MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is a board material made from wood fibers compressed under pressure. It is completely homogeneous, free of knots, cracks, and grain direction. MDF is more stable than solid wood — less reactive to humidity, does not warp or dry out. The MDF surface is perfectly smooth, which is important when painting with enamels.
MDF Moldingallows for creating complex profiles impossible in solid wood due to grain direction. The cost of MDF architraves is lower than wooden ones with comparable surface quality. The main disadvantage is the lack of natural wood texture. If a transparent finish revealing the wood structure is planned, MDF is not suitable. But under enamel paint, MDF surpasses solid wood due to the absence of pores and homogeneity.
Polyurethane is the third material option. Polyurethane architraves are lightweight, moisture-resistant, and unaffected by temperature fluctuations. They are ideal for high-humidity rooms — bathrooms, kitchens. Polyurethane allows for creating architraves with rich ornamentation, imitating plaster stucco. The price is affordable, installation is simple due to low weight. The disadvantage is the artificiality of the material, lacking the nobility of natural wood.
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Surface finish options
Natural solid wood tones — a classic solution for wooden interiors. Clear varnish or oil reveals the wood texture, emphasizing the grain pattern. Oak has an expressive radial texture, beech — finer and more uniform. Staining with wood stains allows changing the color while keeping the structure visible. From light maple to dark wenge — the palette is limitless.
Painting with enamels conceals the texture, creating a uniform colored surface. This is optimal for MDF trims, which have no inherent texture. White trims are a universal solution that suits any doors and walls. Colored enamels allow for creating accents or integrating trims into the interior color scheme. Matte enamels look modern, while glossy ones appear more classic.
Patination and aging — techniques giving architraves an antique effect. The base paint layer is covered with a contrasting patina, rubbed into the profile recesses. Gold or silver patina on a dark base creates luxury, green on beige — Provence, black on gray — loft. The aging effect is achieved by sanding edges, imitating natural wear.
Profiles and styles of door architraves
Simple flat architrave — a minimalist rectangular-section strip without any profiling. Width typically 60-80 mm, thickness 10-15 mm. Such architraves suit modern interiors — Scandinavian style, minimalism, loft. They do not attract attention, creating a neat frame without decorative excess. Flat architraves join easily at corners, simple to install.
Rounded architrave has a convex front surface — semicircle or ellipse in cross-section. This softens perception, making the frame more voluminous and expressive compared to the flat option. Rounded architraves are appropriate in classic and transitional interiors, where moderate decorativeness without overt ornamentation is needed. Width 70-100 mm creates a noticeable frame.
Shaped architrave has a complex multi-step profile with alternating protrusions and recesses. The play of planes creates a chiaroscuro relief, enriching perception. Such profiles are characteristic of classicism, neoclassicism, American classic. Width reaches 100-120 mm, the profile can include up to 5-7 different elements.
carved casings for windows and doorsrepresent the highest degree of decorativeness. The surface is adorned with three-dimensional ornamentation — floral motifs, geometric patterns, stylized compositions. Carving can be through (pierced) or relief. Carved architraves turn the doorway into an artistic object, appropriate in high-style interiors — Baroque, Empire, Russian terem.
Dimensions and Proportions
Architrave width affects the visual perception of the opening. Narrow architrave 50-60 mm creates a thin frame, almost unnoticeable. This suits small rooms where every centimeter of wall matters, or minimalist interiors. Medium architrave 70-90 mm — optimal balance between noticeability and restraint, suitable for most interiors.
Wide architrave 100-150 mm creates an imposing frame, turning the door into an architectural accent. This solution is for spacious rooms with high ceilings, where proportions allow using large-scale decor. Wide architraves are characteristic of palace interiors, mansions, representative spaces. In a standard apartment, they may look disproportionate.
Architrave thickness determines its volume. Thin architrave 10-12 mm almost merges with the wall, creating a delicate frame. Thick architrave 20-25 mm protrudes noticeably, forming an expressive relief.decorative doorway framingrequires balancing proportions.
Standard architrave length 2000-2200 mm is designed for typical door opening height around 2000 mm. For installation on an opening, 2.5 sets are needed: two full-length vertical posts and one horizontal crossbar, trimmed to the opening width. When buying individually, take 5 planks per opening: 2 for left and right sides, 2 for the horizontal (usually 1.5 is required, but better to have a spare), 1 reserve in case of defects during trimming.
Advantages of buying architraves individually
Why is it more advantageous to buyWooden casings create a frame around the opening, visually highlighting it from the wall plane. A classic casing has a profiled section that corresponds to the profiles of baseboards and moldings.individually, rather than pre-packaged sets? Flexibility in quantity — the main advantage. An apartment may have a non-standard number of doors, wide openings requiring additional planks, spare for potential damage during installation. Sets are often excessive or insufficient, forcing you to buy extra or purchase separately.
Freedom to choose profiles for different openings. The entrance door can be framed with a wide formal architrave, interior doors — medium, closet or bathroom door — narrow. Or vice versa — identical framing for all doors except the entrance, requiring a special accent. Individual purchase allows flexible combination of widths and profiles.
Ability to purchase additional items when expanding the project. Started with decorating several rooms, decided to continue. With set purchases, each new door requires buying a full set with inevitable leftovers. With individual purchase — you buy exactly the number of planks needed. This is especially relevant for phased renovations, when home decoration extends over time.
Economic benefit for non-standard openings. A wide double door requires an increased amount of horizontal architrave. In a set, it's insufficient, forcing you to buy a second set, resulting in excess vertical planks. With individual purchase, you take exactly what you need, without overpaying for extras.Mouldings, architraves, and skirting boardsindividually optimize the budget.
Calculation of required quantity
How to accurately calculate how many planks are needed? A standard single-leaf opening 800 mm wide and 2000 mm high requires: two vertical planks 2100-2200 mm long (opening height plus thickness of horizontal architrave plus a small margin) and one horizontal plank, trimmed to the opening width plus double the thickness of vertical planks plus gaps. Total 3 planks minimum, 4-5 considering a margin.
A double-leaf opening 1600 mm wide requires the same vertical calculation, but the horizontal becomes longer. If the opening width is 1600 mm, the horizontal trim should be about 1700-1800 mm long (width plus thickness of side strips plus allowances). A standard 2200 mm strip fits, but with little margin. For peace of mind, it's worth taking an extra strip in case of cutting errors.
An arched opening requires special calculation. The curved part is framed with a flexible trim (some wood species, such as beech, allow bending after steaming) or segmented short pieces that approximate the arc. For arches, it's easier to use flexible polyurethane trims or order custom radius elements.
Framing on both sides of the wall doubles the consumption. Each door is visible from two sides, with trims installed both outside and inside the room. If the rooms connected by the door have different styles, the trims may differ. On the side of a classic living room—an ornate trim; on the side of a minimalist bedroom—a smooth one. This requires purchasing different profiles.
Door trim installation: mounting technology
Surface preparation is a critical stage. The wall around the door frame must be level, clean, and dry. The trim contacts the wall with its entire back surface—any unevenness creates gaps visible in side projection. Check wall flatness with a straightedge. Fill significant unevenness with putty; minor ones can be compensated with flexible adhesive.
Marking the trim position requires precision. Measure the width and height of the door opening. Mark the position of the trim's outer edges on the wall—typically with a 10-20 mm offset from the inner edge of the frame. This offset creates a visual 'step' between the frame and trim, emphasizing the structure's volume. Use a level to check the vertical and horizontal alignment of the markings.
Cutting corners at 45° is the standard technique for joining trims. Vertical and horizontal strips are connected at corners with diagonal cuts, creating a neat joint. Cutting is done with a miter saw set precisely to 45°. Cut quality is critical—the slightest deviation from 45° or an uneven cut will create a visible gap in the corner.
Trims are fastened using several methods. Finish nails are the traditional method. Thin nails 40-60 mm long are driven through the trim into the door frame or wall at 300-500 mm intervals. Heads are countersunk with a nail set, and the indentations are filled with wood putty.How to decorate a doorcorrectly — is a whole art.
Mounting adhesive is a modern alternative to nails. Special wood adhesive or universal mounting adhesive is applied to the back of the trim in a zigzag line. The trim is pressed against the wall and secured with painter's tape during adhesive curing (usually 12-24 hours). This method leaves no visible fastening marks but requires a perfectly flat wall.
Liquid nails are a compromise between adhesive and mechanical fasteners. The trim is set on liquid nails and additionally secured with a few finish nails or screws. After the adhesive dries, the mechanical fasteners bear the entire load; the nails only held the strip during curing. Nails can be removed, holes filled, resulting in a surface without marks.
Corner joining: professional installation nuances
Perfect corner joining requires precise cutting and profile quality. Even at an exact 45° angle, a gap can form if the trim profile has rounded or complex shapes. Test the joint on scraps before installation. If a gap forms, adjust the cut on the miter saw, slightly correcting the angle (45.2-45.5°) until perfect joining.
Filling small gaps is done with acrylic sealant matching the trim color. Sealant is applied in a thin line into the gap, smoothed with a wet finger or rubber spatula. Excess is immediately removed with a damp cloth. After drying, the sealant is painted along with the trim, becoming invisible. This method conceals minor joining imperfections.
Decorative corner elements are an alternative to diagonal joining. Instead of cutting at 45°, trims are joined at a right angle, and the joint is covered with a decorative overlay—a carved corner rosette. This simplifies installation by eliminating the need for perfect cutting and adds decorative appeal. Corner rosettes must match the trim style.
Combining trims with other interior elements
Door framing does not exist in isolation—it must harmonize with baseboards, crown moldings, and wall moldings. Unity of style is the main principle. If baseboards have a shaped profile with classic details, trims should be similar. Combining ornate trims with flat, minimalist baseboards creates visual dissonance.
Consistency in width creates proportionality. Rule: the trim should be wider than the baseboard but narrower than the crown molding (if present). This creates a logical decorative hierarchy—crown molding is the widest (top frame of the room), door trim is medium, baseboard is the narrowest (lower boundary). Typical proportions: crown 120 mm, trim 80 mm, baseboard 60 mm.
Color matching is a classic solution. Door frames, baseboards, and cornices are painted in a unified color, creating a cohesive decorative system. Most often this is white, a universal and neutral color. The natural color of wood can also be uniform for all elements. Color unity connects the space, creating a sense of thoughtfulness.
Contrast solutions are acceptable with a competent approach. Dark doors with dark trims on light walls with light baseboards is a popular contrast combination. It's important that the contrast is intentional, not accidental.Interior Door Decormust be logically justified.
Trims and door leaf: combination rules
A neutral door leaf without decoration is the ideal canvas for any trims. A smooth panel door or one without panels becomes a canvas on which the trim creates a frame. You can choose trims of any decorative level—from minimalist to richly ornamented. The door does not compete with the framing but is emphasized by it.
A decorated door leaf with ornamentation, carving, or overlays requires coordination with the trim. The decorative style of the door and trim must match. A door in Provence style with floral motifs requires a trim with similar motifs. A door with geometric panels requires a trim with a laconic profile. Style mismatch creates eclecticism, which can be interesting but requires experience.
Color combination of door and trim can be of three types: monochrome (door and trim the same color), contrast (light door with dark trim or vice versa), nuanced (close shades with slight tone difference). Monochrome creates integrity; door and trim are perceived as a single element. Contrast emphasizes structure, highlighting the frame. Nuance provides a soft transition, refined and delicate.
Special cases: non-standard openings and solutions
Wide double-leaf openings require enhanced framing. A standard 70-80 mm wide trim may look disproportionately narrow on a 1600-1800 mm wide opening. Here, wide trims of 100-120 mm or even 150 mm are appropriate, creating substantial framing proportionate to the opening scale. The horizontal trim above a wide opening can be complemented with a central decorative overlay or keystone.
Sliding doors that retract into the wall lack a traditional frame. Framing is created with applied strips directly on the wall, forming a visual frame for the opening. This is more of a decorative molding than a functional trim, but the principles are the same. Strip width can be increased to 150-200 mm, compensating for the absence of a volumetric door.
Arch openings are framed with special flexible architraves or composite elements. For a semicircular arch, an architrave capable of bending along the radius is required. Beech becomes flexible after steaming, allowing the creation of radius elements with a minimum radius of 400 mm. Polyurethane architraves are inherently flexible. Segmented arch framing with short straight elements creates a faceted approximation of the curve.
Doorless openings connecting adjacent rooms are framed with architraves on both sides of the wall along the entire perimeter. This creates a portal, an architecturally designed transition between spaces. The width of architraves for a portal can be increased — 100-150 mm, emphasizing the significance of the opening. Portals are often complemented with capitals (decorative overlays in the upper corners), transforming the opening into a colonnade.
Door of what: terminology clarification
A common question arises: what is a door skirting board called? This is a widespread confusion in terms. A skirting board is an element that finishes the joint between the floor and the wall. The element that finishes the joint between the door and the wall is called an architrave. The confusion arises due to their external similarity — both are planks framing something along the perimeter. But their functions and installation locations are different.
Another terminological nuance: 'obnalichka' or 'obnalichivanie' — the process of installing architraves. A door is 'obnalichivaetsya', meaning it is equipped with architraves. An 'obnalichennaya' door — a door with installed architraves. A 'neobnalichennaya' door — a door without architraves, where the frame is directly visible. In the professional jargon of builders and designers, these terms are commonly used.
wooden moldings and architravesIn catalogs, they are often combined into one category, as the boundary between them is conditional. Many profiles are universal, used both as door architraves and as wall decor, and even as ceiling elements. The choice is determined by the specific project task.
Stylistic Solutions: From Classic to Modern
A classic architrave is distinguished by a symmetrical, complex profile with characteristic elements of classical orders. Flutes (vertical grooves), egg-and-dart ornament, bead-and-reel, meander (geometric pattern) — these details indicate a classical style. The width of classic architraves is usually 90-120 mm, material — solid oak or beech with natural finish or painting in noble shades.
A Provence-style architrave has a lighter, more elegant profile with botanical motifs. Winding tendrils, small flowers, grape clusters — characteristic ornamentation. The color palette is light — white, cream, pale blue, often with an aging effect. Medium width, 70-90 mm, material — beech or MDF for painting. Provence prefers tenderness and delicacy of forms.
A modern architrave is minimalist — flat or with a simple rounding, without ornaments and complex profiles. Width is usually narrow, 50-70 mm, creating a delicate frame that almost merges with the wall. Colors are neutral — white, gray, black, or natural light wood. Modern style values purity of lines, absence of decorative excess.Modern style wooden millworkis laconic and functional.
A loft-style architrave is deliberately industrial — it can imitate a metal profile, have rust patination, be painted in dark graphite or anthracite tones. The profile is simple but with emphasized geometry. Medium width, 70-90 mm. Loft allows for roughness, deliberate incompleteness, contrast between smooth and textured.
Carved architraves: the art of framing
A carved architrave is the pinnacle of decorativeness in door opening design. A three-dimensional ornament carved into solid wood transforms a functional element into a work of art.Carved Window TrimIt can cover the entire front surface with a continuous pattern or have ornamental inserts in specific areas.
Botanical carving is the most popular motif. Acanthus leaves, grapevines, roses, oak branches, ivy — each plant carries symbolic meaning. Acanthus symbolizes overcoming difficulties, grapes — abundance, oak — strength, ivy — loyalty. The carver can create both stylized and naturalistic images, depending on the interior style.
Geometric carving creates ornaments from repeating geometric elements — rhombuses, triangles, circles, spirals. This is a more strict, architectonic decorativeness, characteristic of northern traditions, Scandinavian style, Art Nouveau. Geometric carving requires mathematical precision, creating rhythmic compositions of high expressiveness.
Narrative carving is rarer, found in exclusive projects. The architrave is decorated with scenes — hunting, pastoral, mythological. This is custom work requiring the skill of a carver-artist. Narrative architraves turn the door into an exhibition object, requiring special lighting and viewing points.
Door frame care: preserving beauty
Regular dry cleaning is the basis of care. Dust settles on architraves, as on any horizontal and vertical surface. If the architrave has a profile with recesses, dust accumulates in them, creating gray stripes. Wipe architraves with a soft, dry cloth once a week. For complex profiles, use a soft brush that penetrates into the recesses.
Wet cleaning is required less often, once a month or as needed. Wipe architraves with a slightly damp (not wet!) cloth with a small amount of mild detergent. Avoid excess moisture, especially on wooden architraves — water can penetrate the wood structure, causing swelling, cracking of the finish. After wet cleaning, wipe dry immediately.
Protection from mechanical damage prolongs the life of architraves. The main threat is impacts when moving furniture. Corners of cabinets, sharp edges of tables can leave dents, chips on architraves. When rearranging furniture, use protective pads, move carefully. Especially vulnerable are the corners of architraves at joints — here the wood is thinner, chips more easily.
Restoration of minor damage is possible at home. Scratches on painted architraves are repaired with retouching — paint of the exact shade is selected, the defect is painted over with a fine brush. On architraves with a natural finish, scratches are masked with retouching markers or wax crayons in the wood color. Minor dents can be steamed with an iron through a damp cloth — the wood swells, the dent evens out.
Updating the finish of architraves
Over time, the finish on architraves loses its freshness — fades, wears, gets dirty. Updating the finish restores the original beauty. Architraves painted with enamel can be repainted. Lightly sand the surface with fine sandpaper to create adhesion, remove dust, apply a new coat of paint. Two thin coats are better than one thick one.
Architraves with a natural finish require more complex updating. If the varnish has dulled, it needs to be removed by sanding or with a stripper, then a fresh coat applied. Removing old varnish without damaging the wood requires care. Stripper acts chemically, softening the varnish, which is then scraped off with a putty knife. After stripping, the wood needs to be neutralized, sanded, dusted, and only then coated with new varnish or oil.
Changing the color of architraves allows updating the interior without replacing elements. Natural wood can be tinted with stain, changing the shade from light to dark. Painted architraves can be repainted a different color — this completely changes the character of the interior. White architraves, repainted black, turn a classic interior into a modern, graphic one.
Frequently asked questions
Can you install architraves yourself without experience?
Yes, installing door architraves is accessible to a DIYer with basic tools. The main thing is precise miter cutting at 45°, for which a miter saw or miter box is needed. Fastening with finish nails or glue does not require special skills. The first opening may take several hours, subsequent ones will go faster.
What width of architrave is optimal for a standard apartment?
For a standard apartment with ceiling heights of 2.5-2.7 meters, a casing width of 70-90 mm is optimal. Narrow 50-60 mm casings look modest, while wide 100-120 mm ones can appear bulky. The average width creates a noticeable but not dominant frame, suitable for most interior styles.
Do door casings need to match the door color?
Not necessarily. Three common approaches are: casings matching the door color (monochrome solution), casings matching the wall color (the door contrasts), and casings matching the baseboards and cornices (a unified decorative system). The choice depends on the design concept. Monochrome emphasizes the door as a solid element, while contrast highlights the frame.
How do solid wood casings differ from MDF casings in terms of performance properties?
Solid wood is more sensitive to humidity and temperature, may warp slightly, and has a natural texture. MDF is more stable, does not react to microclimate changes, and has a uniform surface. For transparent finishes, the choice is clear—only solid wood. For enamel painting, MDF is preferable due to its smoothness and stability.
How much do door casings cost per piece?
The price depends on the material, width, and profile complexity. A simple flat MDF casing 70x10 mm costs 200-300 rubles per 2200 mm strip. A shaped beech casing 90x18 mm costs 800-1200 rubles. A carved oak casing 100x25 mm starts from 2000 rubles and up. A standard door requires 5 strips, totaling from 1000 to 10,000+ rubles.
Can ceiling moldings be used as door casings?
Technically, yes, if the width and profile are suitable. However, ceiling moldings are often designed to be viewed from below and have specific geometry. Door casings are viewed frontally and require a symmetrical profile. Check how the molding looks in a vertical position when viewed directly.
How to calculate the required number of strips for a non-standard wide opening?
Measure the height of the opening (for vertical casings) and the width (for horizontal ones). Vertical strips should be 50-100 mm longer than the height for allowance. The horizontal strip should cover the width of the opening plus double the thickness of the vertical casings plus 50 mm allowance. If a standard 2200 mm strip does not cover it, two strips are needed.
Do casings need to be varnished after installation?
It depends on how they were supplied. If the casings already have a finish (varnish, enamel), no additional coating is required. If they are supplied untreated or only primed, a finish coating is mandatory—it protects the wood from dirt, moisture, and mechanical damage.
Can the same casings be used for doors and windows?
Yes, many casings are universal. Window openings are framed on the same principle as door openings. Uniform casings on doors and windows create stylistic integrity in the interior. Keep in mind that window openings may be wider and lower than door openings, requiring more horizontal strips.
What is the minimum set of tools required for installing casings?
A miter saw or miter box with a handsaw (for cutting corners), a hammer (for finish nails) or a screwdriver, a tape measure, a pencil, a level, a nail set (for sinking nail heads). It is advisable to have wood putty and sandpaper for final finishing. This set allows for professional installation.
Conclusion: Framing as the Art of Detail
Door framing is not a technical necessity but a design technique capable of transforming an interior. Properly selected moldings for interior doors turn utilitarian openings into architectural events, set the style of the space, and create visual cohesion among disparate elements. The ability to purchase by the piece offers flexibility, allowing precise quantity calculation, profile combination, and implementation of non-standard solutions without overpaying for excess.
The variety of materials—noble solid wood, stable MDF, practical polyurethane—offers a choice for any budget and operating conditions.Decorative overlays for furniture and facadescomplement casings, creating comprehensive decoration. The stylistic range, from strict classic to laconic modern, allows finding a solution for any interior direction.
The company STAVROS specializes in the production of high-quality interior trim. The catalog featurescarved and shaped casingsmade of solid oak, beech, as well as MDF profiles of varying complexity. Each product undergoes multi-stage processing—from wood drying to final sanding—ensuring dimensional stability, profile clarity, and durability.
STAVROS's production facilities are equipped with modern equipment from European manufacturers. CNC milling machines ensure micron-precision profiling and geometric repeatability in each strip. Sanding lines create an impeccably smooth surface ready for any type of finish. Painting booths with climate control guarantee uniform coating and absence of defects.
The wide range of STAVROS profiles covers all stylistic directions.Classic moldings and casingswith traditional elements of order architecture. Modern, laconic profiles for minimalist interiors. Hand-carved elements for exclusive projects. Each collection is thoughtfully designed, with elements coordinated to simplify the creation of harmonious compositions.
Piece-by-piece sales are a fundamental principle of STAVROS. The company understands that every project is unique, and standard kits rarely fit perfectly. Buy as many strips as you actually need. Purchase more as the project expands. Keep a spare in case of installation defects.
