Article Contents:
- Measurements: the basis of accurate calculations
- Linear meter calculation: formulas and nuances
- Corner elements: simplified installation and calculation accuracy
- Adhesive: calculation based on contact area
- Sealant and putty: filling gaps and joints
- Paint and primer: finishing touches
- Additional materials and tools
- Project kit: shopping checklist
- Main Elements
- Installation materials
- Finishing materials
- Consumables
- Tools (if not available)
- Total cost (approximate)
- Where to buy: procurement strategy
- Conclusion
Choosing to decorate the interior with moldings is an aesthetic decision, but its implementation requires mathematical precision. Between admiring beautiful cornices in the catalog and installing them on the ceiling lies the planning stage, where the cost of an error is measured not only in money, but also in time, nerves, and an imperfect result.
Material shortages are discovered at the most inconvenient moment — when three walls are already decorated, the adhesive has set, and suddenly it turns out that the last cornice is missing by 30 centimeters. You will have to buy an entire board, paying for unnecessary 1.5 meters. Or you will have to go to the store, losing a day, risking not finding an identical item. Excess materials are also a problem — money is spent, elements lie unused, returning cut boards is impossible.
Accurate calculation begins not with measuring walls, but with understanding the composition structure.You can buy ready-made stucco matching the Baroque style. Calculate the quantity: linear meters of cornices and moldings, number of rosettes, pilasters, consoles, corner elements. Add a ten to fifteen percent allowance for trimming.— this is not just cornices and rosettes. It is a system of basic elements, corner details, consumables for installation and finishing. Omitting any component makes the project unfeasible or significantly complicates the work.
Professional installers know: correct kit composition — 50% of project success. The remaining 50% — material quality and neat execution. But without the first 50%, the second is useless. It is impossible to install cornices properly if there is no corner element. It is pointless to spend time on perfect joints if there is no joint adhesive to seal them.
In this article, we will systematically examine the process of preparing the project for decorative moldings. You will learn how to accurately calculate linear meters of elements, taking into account trimming in corners, how to determine the required number of corner elements, how much adhesive, sealant, putty, and paint will be needed. Get ready formulas for calculation, kit checklists, practical recommendations for material reserves.
Measurements: the basis of accurate calculations
The quality of calculations depends on the quality of measurements. An error of 2-3 cm in measuring wall length creates a material deficit or excess, inaccuracies in corner quantities lead to a shortage of corner elements.
Measuring tools must ensure accuracy to 1 cm over a length of up to 5 meters. A 5-7 meter tape measure with a wide ribbon (25 mm), metal casing, and locking mechanism — optimal tool. Cheap tape measures with narrow ribbons bend when pulled, creating errors. Laser distance meters are more accurate and faster, but more expensive — justified for large-scale projects.
Measuring the room perimeter for cornices is done along the mounting line. Cornices are mounted at the junction of the wall and ceiling. Measure the length of each wall along this junction, not along the floor — the top of the wall may differ from the bottom by 2-5 cm in standard apartments. Record the lengths of all walls separately — this will be needed for optimizing cutting.
Checking measurements is critical. Measure each wall twice, preferably at different times or with different tools. A discrepancy exceeding 2 cm is a sign of error — remeasure. Add up the lengths of all walls — you will get the total perimeter. For a rectangular room, check: the perimeter should equal twice the sum of the room's length and width.
Internal angles are counted visually while walking around the room — where two walls form an inward angle (standard room corners). External angles — where walls form an outward projection (columns, niches, bay windows). Record separately the number of internal and external angles — they require different corner elements.
Non-standard angles (not 90°) require special attention. Measure the angle with a protractor or set square. Deviation up to 5° is acceptable — corner elements or 45° trimming will compensate. Deviation exceeding 5° requires individual adjustment of elements; standard corner elements will not fit.
Ceiling height affects the choice of cornice width, but not the calculation of linear meters. However, record the height — it will be needed when selecting elements from the catalog. Measure at several points in the room — height may vary by 1-3 cm, use the average value.
Room layout with dimensions — mandatory planning document. Draw a room plan indicating wall lengths, corner positions, door and window locations. This plan is used for calculations, shown to consultants when purchasing, and serves as a guide during installation.
Photos of the room complement the plan. Photograph each wall, corners, problem areas (irregularities, protrusions). Photos help the store consultant understand the room's specifics and provide accurate recommendations.
Calculating linear meters: formulas and nuances
Linear meter — a unit of measurement for the length of an element regardless of its width or height. A cornice, molding, or skirting board is sold by linear meters. Standard plank length — 2 or 2.4 meters. The task — calculate how many linear meters (and accordingly, planks) are required.
Basic formula for cornice around the perimeter: linear meters = room perimeter + allowance for trimming. The allowance for trimming depends on the number of corners and is 5-10% of the perimeter, but not less than the sum (number of corners × 0.1 meter).
Example calculation for a rectangular room 5×4 meters. Perimeter: (5+4)×2 = 18 meters. Corners: 4 internal. Allowance for trimming: 4 corners × 0.1 m = 0.4 m, or 5% of 18 m = 0.9 m (take the larger value). Total: 18 + 0.9 = 18.9 meters. Round up to whole planks: 18.9 / 2 = 9.45 planks. Round up to 10 planks (20 linear meters).
Why is allowance necessary? When trimming cornice at 45° angles in corners, each plank loses 5-10 cm due to cutting. Four corners — minus 20-40 cm of material. Cutting error (damaged plank) — minus 2 meters. Minor defect on plank (dent, scratch) — minus another 2 meters. Allowance of 5-10% covers these losses.
Optimizing cutting reduces waste. If a wall is 3.5 meters long, you can use two 2-meter planks (remaining 0.5 m) or one 2.4-meter plank + 1.1 meters from another plank (remaining 1.3 m used on a short wall). Plan your cutting in advance to minimize waste.
Calculating moldings on walls is more complex, as it depends on the composition's configuration. If creating wall frames, measure the perimeter of each frame separately, add them up, and add 10% allowance. If moldings run horizontally around the perimeter, the calculation is similar to cornice.
Calculating skirting boards is identical to cornice calculation — room perimeter minus door opening widths (skirting board is not installed in openings) plus 5-10% allowance. Don't forget to subtract door widths — standard door 80-90 cm, two doors in a room — minus 1.6-1.8 meters from the perimeter.
Company STAVROS suppliesPolyurethane cornicesandMoldingsstandard length of 2 meters. Knowing this, easily calculate the number of planks: divide required linear meters by 2, round up.
Complex rooms (L-shaped, polygonal) require dividing into sections. Measure each wall section separately, calculate for each, and add results. Do not attempt to calculate complex rooms with one formula — high risk of error.
Room height affects calculation of vertical elements ( pilasters, moldings from floor to ceiling). If installing pilasters full height, linear meters equal wall height multiplied by number of pilasters, plus 10% allowance.
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Corner elements: simplifying installation and ensuring accurate calculation
Corner elements — pre-made parts for joining cornices and moldings at corners. They solve the main installation difficulty — precise 45° trimming of planks with matching ornament. Using corner elements simplifies work, speeds up installation, and guarantees quality results.
Types of corner elements: internal corners (for standard room corners where walls meet), external corners (for protrusions, columns, where walls diverge), corner rosettes (decorative elements with rich ornament for classic interiors).
Calculating the number of corner elements is simple: number of internal corners = number of internal corner elements, number of external corners = number of external corner elements. For a standard rectangular room — 4 internal corner elements. For an L-shaped room — 6 internal, possibly 2 external, if there are protrusions.
Corner elements cost 2-3 times more than straight planks. An internal corner element costs as much as 0.5-1 meter of straight plank. However, time savings and guaranteed quality justify the cost. Alternative — precise 45° trimming of straight planks, requiring experience, special tools (circular saw or miter gauge), and time for fitting.
When corner elements are mandatory: cornices with rich ornament (matching complex ornament at 45° corner joints is very difficult), first installation experience (simplifies work for beginners), non-standard angles (differ from 90°, corner elements adapt better).
When corner elements can be omitted: simple cornices without ornament (45° trimming is not complicated), experienced installer (can precisely cut and join), limited budget (saving on corner elements reduces project cost by 10-15%).
Compatibility of corner elements with straight planks is critical. Corner elements must be from the same collection and article as straight planks — only then is profile and ornament matching guaranteed. Do not attempt to combine corner elements from one collection with planks from another — even visually similar elements may differ in details, and the joint will be noticeable.
Calculating savings when using corner elements: installation time reduces by 30-50% (no need for precise trimming of each corner), risk of damaging planks decreases (unsuccessful trimming — damaged plank costing 300-500 rubles), joint quality is higher (factory precision vs. manual fitting).
Alternative solutions for corners: corner caps (decorative elements applied over straight plank joints, masking imperfect trimming), filling with putty (if gap at corner joint is no more than 3-5 mm, fill with putty, sand, becomes invisible), ignoring (in modern minimalist interiors, small gap at joint may be considered acceptable).
Purchasing corner elements: first choose straight cornice or molding planks, note the article number. Then find corner elements for this article in the catalog — usually listed in straight plank descriptions or in accessories section. If not found — ask the consultant if corner elements are available for the selected model.
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Adhesive: calculated by contact area
Adhesive — critical installation material. Insufficient adhesive is discovered during work, when half the elements are already installed, and remaining adhesive does not cover the remaining area. Buying more adhesive — wastes time and risks new tube from another manufacturer not matching properties of already used adhesive.
Types of adhesive for polyurethane molding: mounting adhesive (thick acrylic compound for attaching elements to wall/ceiling, 310 ml tube for mounting gun), joint adhesive (polyurethane compound for joining elements together, 80-100 ml tube with narrow nozzle).
Mounting adhesive consumption depends on element width. For narrow elements (moldings, skirting boards up to 80 mm) — one zigzag line of adhesive down the center of the back. For wide elements (cornices 100-200 mm) — two lines along the edges. For very wide elements (cornices over 200 mm, panels) — full application with a notched trowel.
Mounting adhesive calculation formula: for narrow elements — 1 tube of 310 ml per 15-20 linear meters, for medium elements — 1 tube per 10-15 linear meters, for wide elements — 1 tube per 7-10 linear meters. For rosettes 500-800 mm diameter — 50-80 ml per piece.
Example calculation: room with 18-meter perimeter, cornice 120 mm wide (medium element). Consumption: 18 / 12.5 (average between 10 and 15) = 1.44 tubes. Round up to 2 tubes. Allowance is justified — better to have leftover adhesive than run out during work.
Joint adhesive is used to seal joints between elements. Apply a thin layer of 1-2 mm to both ends being joined. Consumption is minimal — 80 ml tube covers 30-50 linear meters of joints. For a room with a perimeter of 18 meters and 4 corners (8 joints if no corner elements are used) — 20-30 ml; one tube is sufficient for several rooms.
Joint adhesive is mandatory — it creates a monolithic connection between elements, making the joint invisible. Mounting adhesive does not replace joint adhesive — it holds the element on the wall but does not seal joints between elements.
Recommended adhesives: Orac Decofix FDP500 (mounting), FX200 (joint) — premium quality, high price. Decomaster DM-0801 (mounting), DM-0802 (joint) — excellent price/quality ratio, Russian production. Tytan for moldings — budget option, available in most construction stores.
Adhesive reserve: buy mounting adhesive with an extra tube (1 tube over calculated amount) — adhesive lasts years, leftover will be useful for re-adhering peeled sections or future projects. Joint adhesive — 1 tube is sufficient for most projects, reserve is not necessary.
Adhesive storage conditions: temperature +5-25°C, protection from direct sunlight, vertical position of the tube (nozzle up). Shelf life 12-18 months from production date. Check the date when purchasing — old adhesive loses its properties.
Adhesive application tools: mounting gun for 310 ml tubes (mechanical for 300-500 rubles or pneumatic for 1500-3000 rubles), narrow nozzle for joint adhesive (usually included with the tube).
Sealant and putty: filling gaps and joints
Even perfectly installed molding has minimal gaps — between elements, between molding and wall/ceiling, at corner joints. Gaps of 0.5-2 mm are visible under side lighting, spoiling the impression. Sealant and putty fill gaps, making joints invisible.
Sealant — elastic acrylic compound, applied into gaps using a gun. Elasticity allows compensating for micro-movements of materials due to temperature fluctuations. Used for filling gaps between molding and wall/ceiling up to 5 mm wide.
Putty — paste-like acrylic compound, applied with a trowel. After drying, it hardens and can be sanded. Used for filling joints between molding elements, gaps up to 3 mm wide, and leveling minor surface defects.
Difference between sealant and putty: sealant is elastic, does not sand, applied from a tube, ideal for movable joints. Putty becomes hard after drying, can be sanded, applied with a trowel, ideal for fixed joints.
Sealant consumption: to fill the gap between cornice and ceiling/wall along a 18-meter perimeter with a 2-3 mm gap, 50-100 ml of sealant is required (280-310 ml tube with reserve). If walls are flat and gaps are minimal, one tube will suffice for 2-3 rooms.
Putty consumption: to fill joints between elements in a room with an 18-meter perimeter and 8 joints, 50-100 g of putty is required (250-500 g jar with reserve for other rooms).
Sealant application technique: extrude a thin bead along the gap, smooth with a wet finger or rubber trowel, immediately wipe off excess with a damp cloth. Sealant dries in 2-4 hours, full polymerization in 24 hours. Does not sand — apply carefully in one go.
Putty application technique: load putty onto a narrow trowel (40-60 mm), fill the joint, smooth to level with the surface, remove excess with a damp sponge. Dries in 2-4 hours. After drying, sand with fine abrasive paper P220-P320 until perfectly smooth joint.
Sealant and putty color: white for white molding, matched to color for colored molding. White sealant/putty becomes invisible after painting — paint fully covers them.
Recommended brands: acrylic sealant Ceresit CS 25 (for interior use, elastic, paintable), acrylic putty Knauf (finish, no shrinkage, sands well). Alternatives — any acrylic sealants and putties for interior use, main thing — paintability and absence of silicone.
Material reserve: sealant — 1 tube per room with reserve, putty — 500 g jar for 2-3 rooms. These materials store for a long time, leftovers will be useful for other projects.
Paint and primer: finishing finish
Polyurethane molding is supplied white, ready for painting. Painting is not mandatory — white molding on white walls/ceilings is elegant. But painting offers advantages: surface protection from dirt, color customization, leveling absorption after puttying joints.
Primer before painting is mandatory for quality result. Polyurethane has a dense surface, poorly absorbs paint. Putty on joints is porous, absorbs actively. Without primer, paint lays unevenly — glossy film on polyurethane, matte spots on putty. Primer equalizes absorption, paint lays evenly.
Primer type: acrylic primer for interior use, universal or for low-absorption substrates. Consumption: 100-150 ml per linear meter of cornice 100-150 mm wide when applied with brush. For a room with 18-meter perimeter — 1.8-2.7 liters of primer.
Paint type: acrylic or latex water-based paint for interior use. Cannot use solvent-based paints (alkyd, nitro-enamels) — they dissolve or deform polyurethane. Sheen level: matte (hides minor defects, elegant), satin (easier to clean, moderate gloss), glossy (maximum gloss, but reveals defects).
Paint consumption: 80-120 ml per linear meter of cornice when applied in two coats with brush. For a room with 18-meter perimeter — 1.44-2.16 liters. 2.5-liter jar covers a room with reserve. A roselet 500-800 mm in diameter requires 100-150 ml of paint in two coats.
Painting technique: first coat — primer, thin, brush along element with filling ornament recesses. Dries in 3-4 hours. Second coat — covering, masks gaps, creates even color. Dries in 3-4 hours. Do not sand between coats unless there are drips.
Painting tools: flat brush 40-60 mm with synthetic bristles for acrylic paints. For large areas — 100 mm foam roller (but ornament recesses cannot be painted with roller, brush is needed). Paint tray, painter’s tape for protecting edges.
Color solution: white molding is universal, suitable for any interior. Contrasting molding (dark on light walls or light on dark walls) creates graphic effect, emphasizes architecture. Colored molding (blue, gold, gray) — authorial solutions for bold interiors.
Paint tinting: white paint is tinted with pigments to desired color. Tinting is better done in store using a tinting machine — higher color accuracy, repeatability guaranteed. Manual tinting with pigments is possible but difficult — repeating the exact shade when buying more paint is almost impossible.
Paint reserve: buy quantity with 20-30% reserve for possible painting defects, touch-ups years later, other projects. Paint stores 2-3 years in sealed containers at +5-25°C. Leftover will be useful.
Additional materials and tools
In addition to main materials (molding, glue, paint), you will need consumables and tools.
Painting tape (scotch) to fix elements during glue setting. Tape width 30-50 mm, roll length 25-50 meters. For a room with a perimeter of 18 meters, you will need 10-15 meters of tape (fixation every 40-60 cm, 30-40 fixation points at 30-40 cm of tape per point). One 25-meter roll is sufficient.
Sandpaper for sanding spackled joints. Grit P220-P320 (fine), 2-3 sheets A4 size per room. Used manually or on a sanding block for even pressure.
Wall/ceiling primer for surface preparation before installation. Acrylic deep-penetration primer, consumption 100-200 ml per m² per layer. For priming 20 cm wide strips around an 18-meter perimeter (molding contact zone), you will need 0.36-0.72 liters. One liter jar with reserve.
Degreaser for cleaning surface before installation (grease stains and nicotine residues reduce adhesion). Isopropyl alcohol, acetone, or special degreaser. Minimal consumption, a 250-500 ml bottle is sufficient.
Cloths (rags) for removing excess glue, sealant, paint. Clean cotton cloths, 5-10 pieces 30×30 cm. Or a roll of paper towels.
Water for thinning spackling compound (if too thick), wetting cloths, cleaning tools. A 5-10 liter bucket for convenience.
Tools are not necessary to buy if you plan one-time use — you can rent them. However, a basic set is inexpensive and pays for itself with multiple projects.
Installation gun for 310 ml glue tubes. Mechanical model costs 300-500 rubles, operates via manual press. Battery-powered model costs 1500-3000 rubles, more convenient but justified only for large volumes.
Miter saw for cutting elements at an angle, if not using corner elements. Plastic miter saw costs 300-600 rubles, cuts up to 45°. Metal hacksaw with fine teeth included for cutting polyurethane. Professional panel saw costs 5000-15000 rubles, justified for regular work.
2-meter aluminum straightedge for checking wall/ceiling flatness and element installation. Costs 600-1200 rubles.
Bubble or laser level for marking horizontal lines. Bubble level 60-100 cm costs 300-800 rubles. Laser level costs 1500-5000 rubles, more convenient, projects a line around the entire perimeter.
Trowels for applying glue and spackling compound. Toothed trowel 6-8 mm for glue (200-400 rubles), rubber trowel 40-60 mm for spackling and sealant (100-200 rubles).
Brushes for painting. Flat brush 40-60 mm with synthetic bristles (200-400 rubles for quality brush). Cheap brushes lose bristles, leaving them in paint — savings are questionable.
Project kit: shopping checklist
We will organize everything into a single checklist for a typical project — decorating a room with a cornice along the perimeter and a ceiling rose.
Input data: room 5×4 meters, ceiling height 2.7 m, perimeter 18 meters, 4 internal corners.
Main Elements
Polyurethane corniceWidth 100 mm: 18 meters + 0.9 meters reserve = 18.9 meters. Divide by 2 (length of each piece) = 9.45 pieces, round up to 10 pieces.
Internal corner elements for selected cornice: 4 pieces (per number of corners).
Ceiling rosetteDiameter 500 mm: 1 piece (for a 20 m² room).
Installation materials
Polyurethane mounting glue (310 ml tube): 2 tubes (18 meters cornice + rose).
Polyurethane jointing glue (80 ml tube): 1 tube (sufficient for all joints).
White acrylic sealant (280-310 ml tube): 1 tube (filling gaps around perimeter).
Acrylic finishing spackling compound (500 g jar): 1 jar (filling joints).
Finishing materials
Acrylic primer (1 liter): 1 jar for priming surface + 1 jar for priming molding before painting.
White acrylic paint (2.5 liter jar): 1 jar (for molding in two coats with reserve).
Consumables
50 mm painting tape (25 meter roll): 1 roll.
Sandpaper P220-P320: 2-3 sheets.
Cloth or paper towels: 1 pack.
Tools (if not available)
Caulking gun for tubes: 1 unit.
Miter saw or panel saw: if not using corner elements.
Level: 1 unit.
Notched and rubber trowels: 1 each.
Flat brush 50 mm: 1-2 units.
Total cost (approximate)
Crown 10 pieces at 300-600 rubles = 3000-6000 rubles.
Corner elements 4 pcs at 200-400 rubles = 800-1600 rubles.
Socket 1 unit = 800-2000 rubles.
Installation and finishing materials = 1500-2500 rubles.
Tools (if purchasing) = 1500-3000 rubles (or 0 if rented or already owned).
Total: 7600-15100 rubles for materials, plus tools if needed.
For comparison: professional installation costs 100-200% of material cost, i.e., another 7600-15100 rubles. DIY installation saves this amount.
Where to buy: procurement strategy
Choosing where to buy affects price, quality, and convenience.
Specialized cornice stores (offline and online) offer a wide selection, professional consultations, and quality guarantees. Prices are 10-20% higher than in construction hypermarkets, but quality is consistent, consultants will help calculate the kit and select compatible elements. Delivery to home is charged separately or free with orders above a certain amount.
STAVROS — specialized suppliermoldings from polyurethanewith quality guarantee, professional consultations, and delivery across Russia. Wide catalogcrown moldings, molding, baseboards, rosettesin various styles. Consultants will help calculate the exact quantity and compose a complete project kit.
Construction hypermarkets (Leroy Merlin, OBI, Castorama) have a cornice section, but the selection is limited to popular models. Prices are 10-20% lower than specialized stores. Consultants are less knowledgeable about cornice — may not know nuances of calculation or compatibility. Advantage — you can buy all materials (cornice, glue, paint, tools) in one place in one trip.
Online marketplaces (Ozon, Wildberries, Yandex Market) offer a wide selection, competitive prices, and convenient home delivery. Risks — quality is inconsistent (Chinese unknown manufacturers may deliver defective items), no consultations (calculation is self-done), returns are more complicated. Suitable for experienced buyers who know exactly what they need.
Optimal procurement strategy: buy cornice from a specialized store (STAVROS or similar) — quality is guaranteed, consultants will help calculate and select compatible elements. Buy installation materials and tools from a construction hypermarket — prices are lower, quality of glue and paint from well-known brands is consistent, no consultations needed (what to buy, you already know).
Inspection upon receipt is mandatory. Check each piece — no dents, scratches, or breaks. Verify quantity — recount the pieces and corner elements. Check part numbers — all pieces must be the same part number (otherwise they may differ in white shade or profile). If you find a defect, initiate a return immediately, before starting installation.
Delivery of large orders to home saves time and effort. Cornice is bulky (a 2-meter-long piece), inconvenient to transport in a regular car (requires a trunk at least 2 meters or foldable seats). Delivery from the store costs 500-1500 rubles within the city, justified for orders over 5000 rubles.
Conclusion
Buying polyurethane cornice is not a spontaneous decision, but a planned project requiring precise calculations and full kit preparation. Between admiring a beautiful cornice in the catalog and its flawless installation on your ceiling lies a planning stage where mathematical precision determines success.
Measurements — the foundation of calculations. Accuracy to 1 cm for lengths up to 5 meters, double-check each wall, count all angles, room layout with dimensions. Measurement errors multiply into kit errors.
Calculating linear meters requires understanding formulas. Room perimeter plus 5-10% allowance for trimming at corners. Divide by standard piece length (2 meters), round up to the nearest whole number of pieces. Optimizing cutting reduces waste, but allowance is mandatory — better to have 0.5 meters leftover than shortage in the last corner.
Corner elements simplify installation, ensure high-quality joints, and save time. Their quantity equals the number of corners — 4 internal corner elements for a standard rectangular room. The cost is higher than straight profiles, but the time saved and guaranteed result justify the expense.
Installation materials — adhesive, sealant, putty — are consumed based on contact area. Adhesive: 1 tube of 310 ml for 10-15 linear meters of average cornice. Sealant: 1 tube per room to fill gaps. Putty: 500 g jar covers 2-3 rooms. Insufficient quantity of any material stops installation.
Finishing materials — primer and paint — complete the project. Primer is mandatory for even coloring. Paint applied in two coats creates the final finish. Consumption: 2-2.5 liters of paint per room with a perimeter of 18 meters, including reserve.
Project kit — checklist of all materials from main elements to consumables. Plan purchases systematically: main elements, corner elements, installation materials, finishing materials, consumables, tools. Omitting any component creates problems.
STAVROS Company — a reliable partner in implementing decorative molding projects. Professional consultants will help accurately calculate material quantities, prepare a complete kit, and select compatible elements.You can buy ready-made stucco matching the Baroque style. Calculate the quantity: linear meters of cornices and moldings, number of rosettes, pilasters, consoles, corner elements. Add a ten to fifteen percent allowance for trimming.At STAVROS — get guaranteed quality, precise calculations, and complete kit.
Wide assortmentcrown moldings, molding, baseboards, rosettescorner elements for any project. Delivery across Russia, professional technical support at all stages.
Precise calculations, complete kit, quality materials — three pillars of a successful project. Start with proper planning, continue with quality purchasing, and finish with professional installation. The result will exceed expectations — an interior with molding, where every element is in its place, every joint is invisible, and every line is perfect.
Buy moldingAt STAVROS — you receive not just materials, but a complete solution set for creating your dream interior. Consultations, calculations, kit preparation, delivery, technical support. Everything to ensure your project is executed perfectly from the first attempt.
