Polyurethane Moldings: Real Cases and Layout Schemes

When looking atpolyurethane molding photoIn catalogs, it seems beautiful, but somehow abstract. Flat images do not convey the main point — how exactly the decoration changes the space, how layout schemes work, what real transformations occur in ordinary apartments and houses. Yet it is precisely visual case studies, real "before and after" projects, that become the point of reference helping to make a decision and understand the logic of architectural decoration.

In this article, we will examine not theory, but practice. We will look at real projects in whichpolyurethane moldingstransformed plain boxes into stylish interiors. We will study panel maps and layout schemes used by professionals. We will understand how accent walls are created usingdecorative elements made of polyurethane, and why neoclassicism remains the most popular style for molding decoration. And most importantly — we will learn how to read photos so as to see not just a beautiful picture, but a specific technical solution that can be replicated.

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Why photos of molding are more important than technical drawings

Architectural decoration is not an engineering structure where a drawing with dimensions is sufficient. It is a living space where visual proportions, play of light and shadow, interaction of relief with wall color and texture work. A drawing will show you the width of the cornice, but will not show how it will look under evening lighting. Catalog descriptionsof polyurethane moldingswill tell you about the profile and length, but will not provide understanding of how to create a harmonious composition on a wall 2.7 meters high.

That is why professional designers and architects always start work with visual analysis of ready-made projects. They look at "before and after" photos, study panel layout schemes, analyze placementof stucco elementsin different stylistic contexts. This is not copying, it is understanding the logic. When you see ten to fifteen successful examples, you start feeling the right proportions, understanding scaling, distinguishing harmonious from overloaded.

A photo of a real interior gives the main thing — context. You see not an isolated cornice, but a cornice in conjunction with walls, ceiling, furniture, lighting. You understand howwall moldinginteracts with flooring, how molding panels relate to doorways, how ceiling rose fixtures work with chandeliers. This information is invaluable because it allows avoiding the main mistake of beginners — extracting elements from context and attempting to "stick" them anywhere.

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Space transformation: "before and after" cases

Let's start with the most convincing. Real interior transformation projects show how radically the perception of a room changes after installingpolyurethane molding decoration. This is not cosmetic improvement, it is architectural transformation that repaints the visual geometry of the room.

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Living room in a standard new build

Before: standard rectangular room 2.65 meters high, white walls, plain ceiling without decoration. The room looks flat, impersonal, like a train station corridor. Furniture is good, but disappears against empty walls. Lighting is diffused, space visually "sinks", no architectural accents.

Solution: installation of a 12 cm high ceiling cornice around the entire perimeter, creation of three vertical panels on the accent wall behind the sofa usingpolyurethane wall moldingswith a width of 6 cm, mounting a 60 cm diameter ceiling rose under the central chandelier. Painting all elements in wall color — neoclassical technique, where molding stands out only by relief, not contrast.

After: the room has acquired architectural structure. The ceiling cornice visually raised the height by 10-15 cm, creating an illusion of a higher space. Panels on the wall behind the sofa transformed the flat surface into a classic architectural composition, resembling old mansions. The rose gathered the gaze at the center of the ceiling, organizing a compositional focus. With directional lightingMolding on the Wallcreates a play of light and shadow, adding depth.

Costs: material around 35,000 rubles, installation 18,000 rubles. Total budget 53,000. Effect: the living room looks like a space with a designer renovation costing several million, although actual investments are minimal.

Bedroom in a minimalist apartment

Before: white room with a large bed and built-in wardrobe. Minimalist concept, but space feels cold, hospital-like. The wall behind the bed is bare, creating a sense of incompleteness. Owners wanted to add elegance without destroying the minimalist aesthetic.

Solution: installation of thin moldings (3 cm width) to create a rectangular frame behind the bed headboard. Without additional decoration, without overloading. Simply a clear geometric outline that structures the wall. UsedBuy polyurethane wall moldingswith minimal relief, painted to match wall color.

After: the bedroom acquired that very accent it was missing. The frame behind the bed created a visual headboard without any physical structure. With side lighting from bedside lamps, the moldings cast a soft shadow, adding depth. Minimalism is preserved, but the room is no longer faceless. The desired 'designer detail' has appeared, distinguishing a thoughtfully designed interior from a random furniture arrangement.

Cost: 8,000 rubles for materials, 5,000 for installation. Total: 13,000 rubles. Effect: the bedroom gained character and completeness.

Dining room-living room open plan

Before: combined space of kitchen, dining, and living areas. The area is large, but the perception is chaotic — there is no visual division of zones, the space 'falls apart' into disconnected pieces. The dining zone is lost between the kitchen and the sofa.

Solution: creating a unified systemdecorative moldingalong the entire perimeter of the space. A high ceiling cornice (15 cm) runs continuously through all zones, visually unifying them. In the dining area, three vertical panels are created on the wall using moldings, visually highlighting the dining table as an architectural centerpiece. In the living area, symmetrical panels of smaller size are placed on both sides of the sofa.

After: the space gained cohesion. Despite the open plan, the rooms are now perceived as a single whole in a unified architectural language. The dining area gained significance —Moldings decorationtransformed a simple wall into a grand space. The living area balanced the composition. The single cornice tied everything together.

Cost: 68,000 rubles (large perimeter, many moldings). Effect: the apartment visually expanded, gained architectural logic, and the space felt more valuable.

Corridor in a Stalinist apartment

Before: a long, narrow corridor 3.2 meters high. High ceilings — an advantage, but in a narrow space, they create a well-like effect. Walls appear as endless verticals, proportions are distorted.

Solution: horizontal division of walls with molding at 90 cm height. This line visually 'cuts' the height, restoring proportions to harmony. Above and below the molding, different zones are created: the lower (plinth) zone is painted in a darker shade, the upper remains light. A ceiling cornice 18 cm high (large elements are needed for such ceilings).

After: the corridor ceased to be a well. The horizontal division broke the verticality, making the space feel wider. The dark lower zone added stability, the light upper zone preserved airiness. The large cornice made the ceiling not 'somewhere up there,' but part of the composition.

Cost: 25,000 rubles. Effect: the corridor transformed from a deficiency into an asset — classical respectability, characteristic of Stalinist buildings, appeared.

Panel maps: logic of molding layout

When looking atpolyurethane stuccoIn interior photos, it often arises: how exactly was this designed? Why are panels of this exact size, why are moldings arranged this way? Are there rules, or is it arbitrary creativity?

Rules exist. They were developed by classical architecture over several centuries. Modern neoclassicism simplifies these rules, but the basic logic remains. A panel map is a scheme of molding placement on the wall, creating an architectural structure. Let's examine the main types.

Symmetrical three-panel composition

The most popular scheme for accent walls in living rooms and bedrooms. Three vertical rectangles are installed on the wall —of polyurethane moldings— arranged symmetrically relative to the central axis.

Proportions: the central panel is wider than the side ones. Typical ratio — 1:1.5:1. If side panels are 70 cm wide, the central one is 105 cm. Panel height is usually 1.5–1.8 meters at a standard ceiling height of 2.7 meters. The bottom edge of the panel is placed at 20–30 cm from the floor (or at the level of the sofa back/bed headboard).

Distance between panels: 10–15 cm. Too small a distance visually merges the panels, too large a distance breaks the composition.

Application: ideal for the wall behind the sofa in the living room, behind the bed in the bedroom, to highlight a fireplace or TV. The central panel visually gathers attention, the side panels create balance. If contrasting wallpaper or paint of another color is used inside the panels, the effect is enhanced.

Horizontal wall division

Classic three-part system: plinth, main field, frieze. This division originates from ancient architecture, where each zone had its own function and decoration.

Plinth zone: from floor to 80–100 cm height. Separated by a horizontal molding (so-called 'wall band'). Traditionally painted in a darker shade or clad with panels. This visually 'grounds' the interior, creating stability.

Main field: from the plinth molding to the start of the frieze zone (usually 30–40 cm from the ceiling). Vertical panels, decorative frames, and paintings are placed here.

Frieze: upper zone under the ceiling, separated by a cornice. Can be simply painted or contain an additional ornamental molding.

Application: works in rooms with ceiling height of 2.8 meters. In lower rooms, the three-part system compresses space. Ideal for dining rooms, offices, libraries, where classical respectability is needed.

Grid composition

The wall is divided into several identical rectangular sections, creating a regular grid. Typical scheme: four or six panels arranged in two horizontal rows.

Proportions: all panels are the same size, rectangular with a 2:3 or 3:4 aspect ratio. The distance between panels is equal horizontally and vertically (usually 10-12 centimeters).

Application: suitable for large walls in living rooms, for decorating walls along staircases, in hallways. Creates rhythm and order. Inside the panels, you can place photographs, paintings, mirrors, or simply leave a contrasting color.

Framing door and window openings

Portals — framing openings with moldings — create an architectural frame that highlights the opening from the wall plane. The scheme is simple: vertical moldings on both sides of the opening, horizontal molding on top (sometimes an additional one below for windows).

Important: the molding should be wider than the door casing (if present) or replace it. Typical portal molding width is 8-12 centimeters. You can add decorative corner elements at the junctions of vertical and horizontal moldings.

Application: any doors (especially entrance and inter-room doors in formal zones), windows (especially in classical interiors), arched openings.

Accent walls: how to create a focus using molding

Accent wall — a design technique where one wall in a room stands out among others, becoming a visual focal point. Usually, this is achieved using contrasting paint, patterned wallpaper, decorative panels. ButWall moldingit works more subtly and effectively — it creates an accent not through color, but through architectural form.

Principles of creating an accent wall with molding

Wall selection: the accent wall is the one that catches the eye upon entering the room, or the wall behind the main piece of furniture (bed, sofa, fireplace). In the living room, this is usually the wall behind the sofa or opposite the entrance. In the bedroom — the wall behind the headboard. In the dining room — the wall facing the dining table.

Decor scale: on the accent wall— everything must correspond to the chosen era.decorations should be larger or more complex than on the other walls. If other walls have only a ceiling cornice, the accent wall adds molding panels. If all walls have simple panels, the accent wall enhances them with decorative appliqués, rosettes, or a more complex molding profile.

Symmetry: the accent wall is built according to the principle of mirror symmetry relative to a central vertical axis. This creates calmness, harmony, and classic dignity. Asymmetric compositions are possible but require professional intuition.

Contrast without conflict: the accent wall stands out but does not clash with the rest of the space. IfYou can buy ready-made stucco matching the Baroque style. Calculate the quantity: linear meters of cornices and moldings, number of rosettes, pilasters, consoles, corner elements. Add a ten to fifteen percent allowance for trimming.white color is used on colored walls, the color should be muted. If molding matches the wall tone (neoclassical), contrasting paint or wallpaper can be used inside the panels.

Accenting options

Classic three-panel composition: described above. Three vertical rectangles, the central one wider. Inside the panels, you can leave a plain painted wall, apply patterned wallpaper, hang paintings or mirrors. The moldings themselves create an architectural structure that serves as the accent.

Large central frame: instead of several panels, a single large rectangular or square frame is created in the center of the wall. Inside — decorative panel, fresco, landscape photo wallpaper, mirror panel. The framepolyurethane wall moldingstransforms an ordinary wall into a gallery.

Vertical division: the wall is divided into narrow vertical sections (like pilasters or vertical panels). This creates a rhythm of vertical lines that visually raises the ceiling. Suitable for narrow walls, spaces with low ceilings, where height needs to be added.

Combination of molding and lighting: an LED strip is installed behind the cornice on the accent wall, illuminating the ceiling. The molding becomes an architectural light fixture. During the day — a decorative element, at night — a source of soft diffused light. Creates a floating ceiling effect, visually increasing height.

Neoclassicism: the main style for polyurethane molding

When talking aboutOnline store for polyurethane ornamentationUsually refer to elements for neoclassical interiors. Why exactly neoclassicism became the primary field of application for modern molding decor?

Neoclassicism is a simplified, modernized version of classical style. It retains architectural logic, symmetry, and use of molding elements, but simplifies forms, reduces ornamentation, and uses a more restrained color palette. While full classical style requires high ceilings (3 meters), large areas, and expensive materials, neoclassicism works in ordinary apartments with 2.7-meter ceilings and standard rooms.

Distinctive features of neoclassicism in the context of molding

Thin profiles: instead of massive baroque cornices 20-25 centimeters wide, elegant profiles 8-15 centimeters are used. Instead of wide moldings with abundant ornamentation — minimalist strips 4-8 centimeters with minimal relief.

Monochromaticity:Buy moldingspaint in the wall color — the main technique. Molding stands out not through color contrast, but through play of light and shadow on its relief. With side lighting (spotlights, wall sconces, directional fixtures), cornices and moldings cast soft shadows, creating depth. Under diffused light, molding almost blends with the wall, creating an effect of a single structured surface.

Symmetry with minimalism: classical symmetry in element placement is preserved, but decoration is reduced. It is not necessary to cover all walls with moldings — one accent wall with panels, a ceiling cornice around the perimeter, and doorways around doors are sufficient. The rest of the space remains clean.

Combination with modern furniture: neoclassicism allows combining classical wall and ceiling architecture with modern furniture. A minimalist sofa placed against a wall with molding panels will look harmonious. Full classical style does not permit this — all furniture must be historical.

Neoclassical color palette

Neutral base tones: white, cream, light gray, beige, gray-blue. These colors create a calm background on which molding acts as a structural element.

Muted accents: if a color accent is needed, complex shades are used — not pure blue, but gray-blue; not green, but sage; not brown, but taupe. Bright, saturated colors are not characteristic of neoclassicism.

Monochromatic palette:Ceiling moldingsand walls are often painted in one color or in close shades of one color. This creates unity and visually increases the space.

Lighting in neoclassicism

Correct lighting is critically important for the perceptionmolded ceilingand wall elements. Diffused central lighting (from chandeliers with frosted shades) creates general illumination but does not highlight the relief of molding.

Directional lighting (spotlights, track lights, wall sconces) creates side lighting that casts shadows from cornices and moldings. It is precisely these shadows that transform a flat wall into a volumetric architectural surface.

Hidden backlighting behind cornices — a modern technique that enhances the effect. An LED strip is installed behind the ceiling cornice, illuminating the ceiling from within. This creates a floating ceiling effect, visually increasing the room's height.

Installation technology: what to know before installation

When studying photos of finished interiors with molding, it seems complex and accessible only to professionals. In reality,installing polyurethane molding— it is a process fully achievable for self-installation if one understands the basic principles and works with precision.

Surface preparation

Walls and ceilings must be flat, clean, and dry. Irregularities exceeding 3–5 millimeters will cause problems during installation — molding will not fit tightly, gaps will form. If walls are uneven, they must be leveled with putty or plaster before installing molding.

The surface must be primed. Primer improves adhesive bond, prevents peeling. Especially important for loose surfaces (old plaster, drywall).

If walls are already painted, the paint must be durable. This is checked simply: stick a piece of painter’s tape to the wall and quickly peel it off. If the paint peels off with the tape, the surface must be strengthened with a penetrating primer or repainted.

Tools and materials

For cutting moldings, you will need a miter box (for precise 45-degree angles) and a fine-toothed hacksaw (or a circular saw if doing a lot). Polyurethane cuts easily, but the cut must be clean, without chips.

Adhesive — special for polyurethane. Regular PVA is not suitable (weak adhesion). Installation adhesives such as "liquid nails" or polyurethane adhesives provide strong bonding. Some masters use acrylic putty — it both adheres and fills small irregularities, and allows immediate sealing of joints.

For joining elements together, joint adhesive is needed — thicker, fast-drying. It fills gaps, creating a monolithic connection.

Painter’s tape for temporary fixation until adhesive dries. Level for checking horizontal and vertical alignment. Pencil for marking. Putty knife for applying adhesive. Sandpaper for final sanding of joints.

Work sequence

Marking: the most important stage. Using a level and pencil, precise markings for the placement of all elements are made. For ceiling cornices, a line is marked around the room at an equal distance from the ceiling. For wall panels, outlines of all rectangles are marked with precise symmetry.

Cutting elements: moldings are cut to size according to the marking. For corners (45 degrees), a miter box is used. Critically important: all angles must be precise, otherwise joints will have gaps.

Applying adhesive: adhesive is applied to the back of the molding in a thin wavy line (or two lines along the edges if the molding is wide). Do not apply too much — excess will squeeze out and stain the wall.

Installation: molding is pressed against the wall/ceiling according to the marking. It must be pressed evenly along the entire length. If the element is long, it can be temporarily fixed with painter’s tape or brads (which are later removed and the holes filled with putty).

Joining: the ends of elements are coated with joint adhesive before joining. When connecting, adhesive squeezes out — excess is immediately wiped with a damp cloth. The joint must be tight, without gaps.

Filling joints: after the adhesive dries (24 hours), all joints and mounting points are inspected. Small gaps and irregularities are filled with acrylic putty. After the putty dries, joints are sanded with fine sandpaper until perfectly smooth.

Painting: final stage.Molding pricewhich already includes white color, is often repainted to match wall color (neoclassicism) or contrasting color (classicism). Acrylic or latex paint is used, applied in two to three layers for even coverage.

Errors visible in photos

By studyingMolding MoscowBy studying projects and photos on the internet, one can notice characteristic errors that ruin the entire beauty. Understanding these errors helps avoid them in one's own project.

Incorrect scale

Too small elements in a large room: a 5 cm narrow cornice in a room with 3.2 m ceilings disappears and looks pitiful. The room requires large elements — a 15-20 cm cornice, wide moldings 8-10 cm.

Too large elements in a small room: a massive baroque 25 cm cornice in a 2.65 m room 'presses down', visually lowering an already low ceiling. For such rooms, thin elegant profiles 8-12 cm are needed.

Violation of symmetry

Panels of different sizes on the wall (when they should be identical), misalignment of the central axis, unequal spacing between elements — all this creates visual dissonance. The human eye is very sensitive to symmetry violations, even if the deviation is just a few centimeters.

Poor corner joints

Gaps between molding corners, inaccurate trimming — the most common error during self-installation. This is very noticeable in photos, especially under side lighting. Corners must fit perfectly, without gaps. If you lack skill in cutting at 45 degrees, better practice on scraps.

Over-decorating

Trying to place moldings everywhere: on ceilings, on all walls, around all doors, and on windows — turns the interior into a museum or theatrical decoration. In living space, restraint is needed. Better one well-designed accent wall than chaotic moldings throughout the apartment.

Mismatched furniture style

Classical moldings in an interior with ultra-modern furniture (if this is not a deliberate eclecticism, but a random combination) create a conflict. Either adapt moldings to modernity (neoclassicism, minimal decor), or choose furniture to match classicism.

Where to buy quality polyurethane moldings

Material quality determines the final result. Cheap low-density moldings deform over time, lose relief definition, may crack. Therefore, choosing a supplier is no less important than choosing a design.

When purchasing, pay attention to polyurethane density (should be 200-250 kg/m³), relief clarity (lines should be sharp, without blurring), color uniformity (without yellowing, spots), presence of quality certificates.

GoodMoldings shopOffers not only a catalog but also consultations on selecting elements, layout schemes, installation recommendations. The ability to see samples in person (not just on photos) is critically important — photos do not convey real scale and texture.

Frequently Asked Questions about Polyurethane Moldings

Can polyurethane moldings be used in humid areas?

Yes, polyurethane is moisture-resistant and does not fear humidity fluctuations. It can be installed in bathrooms and kitchens. The key is to use moisture-resistant adhesive and paint suitable for humid areas. Polyurethane does not swell from water (unlike plaster or wood), does not develop mold, and does not deform from steam.

How much does molding and installation cost?

furniture legAnd other solid wood items cost more than polyurethane. The average price per meter of ceiling cornice 8-12 cm — 300-600 rubles. Wall molding 4-6 cm — 200-400 rubles per meter. Decorative inserts, outlets — from 500 to 3000 rubles per piece depending on size and complexity.

Installation: professional installers take approximately half the cost of materials. That is, if you buy moldings for 40,000 rubles, installation will cost 20,000. DIY installation saves these funds but requires care and time.

How long does polyurethane molding last?

Decades with proper installation and use. Polyurethane does not crack, does not deform, does not lose shape. The only thing that may require updating is painting (if it fades over time or you want to change color). The material is not afraid of temperature fluctuations, mechanical loads (within reasonable limits), or humidity.

Can polyurethane molding be painted?

Yes, and it is recommended. Polyurethane is usually supplied in white color (primed). It can be painted with acrylic or latex paint. Oil and alkyd enamels are not recommended — they may react with polyurethane. Before painting, the surface can be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper to improve paint adhesion.

Can be painted in any color: matching wall color (neoclassicism), contrasting color (classicism), ceiling color. Decorative techniques can be used: patina, gilding, silvering, creating an aged effect.

How does polyurethane molding differ from gypsum molding?

Weight: polyurethane is much lighter than plaster. This simplifies transportation, installation, and reduces load on walls and ceilings.

Installation: polyurethane is glued with adhesive, while plaster requires more complex mounting (sometimes with self-tapping screws, reinforcement).

Water resistance: polyurethane is not afraid of water, while gypsum deteriorates with prolonged exposure to moisture.

Strength: polyurethane is more resistant to mechanical damage, does not crumble or crack from minor impacts.

Price: polyurethane is cheaper than handcrafted gypsum molding, but more expensive than low-quality stamped gypsum.

Appearance: high-quality gypsum molding has a deeper, more expressive relief. However, modern high-density polyurethane is visually indistinguishable.

Can molding be mounted on wallpaper?

Technically yes, but not recommended. The adhesive will stick to the wallpaper, but the wallpaper may peel off the wall under the weight of the molding (especially if it's vinyl on paper). Correct sequence: install molding on prepared walls, then paint the molding and walls, or apply wallpaper carefully avoiding the molding elements.

If molding is already installed on wallpaper and holds poorly, it must be dismantled, wallpaper removed, wall prepared, and reinstalled.

How to calculate material quantity?

For ceiling moldings: measure the room's perimeter (sum of all wall lengths) and add 10% for cutting angles. Moldings are usually sold in 2 or 2.4-meter segments. Divide total length by segment length and round up.

For wall panels: draw a layout on paper or in a graphic editor to scale. Calculate total length of all horizontal and vertical molding segments, add 15% for cutting and errors.

For doorways: multiply doorway height by 2 (two vertical posts) plus doorway width (horizontal element on top), add 10%.

Is it necessary to remove furniture before installing molding?

Depends on the scope of work. If installing only a ceiling molding, furniture can be moved 0.5 meters away from walls and covered with protective film. If installing wall panels, walls must be fully accessible — furniture must be removed or moved to the center of the room.

Ceiling work (moldings, cornices) requires scaffolding or a platform, so the floor must be clear for movement.

Can polyurethane molding be combined with wooden elements?

Yes, and this is a common practice. For example,wooden skirting board purchasefor flooring (wood is more logical here, as it pairs with parquet or solid planks), and use polyurethane on walls and ceilings. Or usewooden cornicein combination with polyurethane moldings.

Important: stylistic consistency. Wooden and polyurethane profiles must match in style (classical, neoclassical, minimalist), otherwise there will be visual conflict.

What tools are needed for self-installation?

Minimum set: miter saw for angled cuts, fine-tooth hacksaw, measuring tape, level (preferably laser), pencil, putty knife for applying adhesive, painter’s tape, fine-grit sandpaper, bucket of water, and cloth for wiping excess adhesive.

Extended set (for a more professional result): circular saw (for fast and precise cutting), laser level (for perfect layout), glue gun (if using glue in tubes), drill with mixer (for mixing putty), various-sized putty knives, spray gun or roller for painting.

Conclusion: from idea to reality

Photos of finished interiors withStucco SPBshow not just beautiful pictures, but real stories of space transformation. Behind each photo — a thought-out project, precise layout plans, quality materials, careful installation. When you understand the logic behind these interiors, you see not magic, but a repeatable technology.

Molding on the WallIt works as an architectural tool, structuring space. It transforms flat, featureless surfaces into volumetric compositions, creates visual accents, corrects room proportions. Panel layouts and placement schemes — this is not arbitrary creativity, but a system developed by classical architecture and adapted by modern neoclassicism to the realities of standard apartments.

When you see 'before and after' cases, you understand the main point: transformation is accessible. No million-dollar budgets, no full apartment renovation. Just properly selecteddecorative elements made of polyurethane, a thoughtful layout, quality installation. And a standard new-build room transforms into a space with character, architectural logic, and the very atmosphere created not by square meters, but by thoughtful details.

Accent walls with panels ofof polyurethane moldingsbecome compositional centers of rooms. Ceiling moldings visually raise the height and add elegance. Doorway portals turn ordinary openings into architectural events. All this works not in isolation, but as a unified system, where each element is in its place, proportions are respected, and lighting is considered.

Neoclassicism as a style perfectly suits modern use of polyurethane molding. It preserves classical elegance while adapting it to modern spaces, modern furniture, and contemporary lifestyles. Thin profiles instead of heavy baroque opulence. Monochrome coloring instead of gilding. Subdued elegance instead of excess. And yet — full architectural expressiveness that transforms housing into interior.