Polyurethane Facade Molding: Selection, Installation, and House Exterior Design

You drive past a cottage community. One house stands out from all the others. Not by size, not by expensive finishes — by form. Cornices emphasize the roof line, pilasters divide the facade into proportional sections, framed windows create rhythm, a port

al entrance group invites you to enter. What magic turned an ordinary box into architecture?Polyurethane molding allows creating a stylish and presentable exterior of a house, while the material retains its qualities in any weather conditions.— a modern solution for creating a classical or custom exterior without astronomical costs for stone or concrete molding.

Twenty years ago, a decorated facade was a privilege of elite construction. Concrete elements weighed hundreds of kilograms, required wall reinforcement, special lifting equipment, and a team of professionals. Plaster was fragile, absorbed moisture, and deteriorated within a few winters. Natural stone cost as much as half the house. Todaybuy facade molding made of polyurethaneany developer can, install it — a team of two people in a few days, and it will last for decades. How to choose elements for a specific architectural task? How does facade polyurethane differ from interior polyurethane? How to install it so that the decoration survives hundreds of freeze-thaw cycles? What styles can be implemented?

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Revolution in Facade Decoration: Polyurethane vs. Traditional Materials

Traditional facade molding was made from materials, each of which had critical drawbacks. Concrete is strong and durable, but incredibly heavy. A cornice 30 centimeters wide and 2 meters long weighs 80-120 kilograms. For fastening, wall reinforcement with embedded parts is required, anchors 200-300 millimeters long, penetrating the load-bearing structure to a depth of 150 millimeters. Installation is a small construction project with lifts, scaffolding, and a team of 4-6 people. The cost of labor exceeds the cost of the concrete decoration itself by 2-3 times.

Plaster is lighter than concrete, but hygroscopic. It absorbs atmospheric moisture; in winter, the water freezes, expands, and ruptures the structure from within. After 5-10 freeze-thaw cycles, plaster begins to crumble; after 15-20 cycles, it disintegrates. In the climate of central Russia, this is 3-5 years of operation. Plaster can be protected with hydrophobic impregnations and multi-layer painting, but this is a temporary measure — the protection needs to be renewed every 2-3 years.

Architectural stone (limestone, sandstone, artificial cement-based stone) is durable but astronomically expensive. A window surround made of architectural stone for a single window costs 50-80 thousand rubles for the material alone; a cornice around the perimeter of a medium-sized house costs 500-800 thousand rubles. This makes stone decoration inaccessible to 95 percent of builders.

Polyurethane solved all three problems simultaneously. The density of high-quality facade polyurethane is 300-400 kilograms per cubic meter, compared to 2200-2400 for concrete and 1200-1400 for plaster. The same cornice, 30 centimeters wide and 2 meters long, made of polyurethane weighs 6-8 kilograms. It is installed by two people without special equipment, attached with polyurethane adhesive foam without reinforcing the walls. Savings on installation are 70-80 percent.

Polyurethane is absolutely moisture-resistant. Its closed-cell structure does not absorb water. An element can be submerged in water for a year—you can take it out, wipe it, and it will be like new. Frost resistance exceeds 300 freeze-thaw cycles, which corresponds to 50-70 years of operation in the conditions of the middle zone. This is confirmed by laboratory tests and real practice—facades decorated with polyurethane 20-25 years ago still look impeccable.

The price is affordable.Buy facade stucco made of polyurethanecan be 5-10 times cheaper than concrete and 15-30 times cheaper than stone. Complete decoration of a house facade with an area of 150-200 square meters will cost 80-150 thousand rubles for materials, compared to a million for concrete and 2-3 million for stone.

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Typology of facade elements: architectural constructor

polyurethane facade moldingrepresents a system of elements that are combined to create a complete architectural image. Understanding the function of each element is critical for proper design.

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Cornices: horizontals that structure the facade

Cornices are horizontal profiled strips installed under the roof, between floors, above windows, and at the base of a building. They serve a dual function: aesthetic (dividing the wall plane into zones, creating rhythm, emphasizing horizontals) and practical (diverting water away from the wall, protecting plaster and windows from direct rainwater runoff).

The crowning cornice is installed at the top of the facade under the roof. Width 20-40 centimeters, projection from the wall 15-30 centimeters. The profile is multi-stepped: cyma reversa (lower curved element), fillet (horizontal plane), neck (transitional zone), drip (lower protruding strip from which water runs off). In classical style, the cornice is complemented by modillions—brackets spaced 40-60 centimeters apart, creating the illusion of supporting the roof overhang.

The interfloor cornice marks the boundary between the first and second floors. Width 12-20 centimeters, projection 8-15 centimeters. The profile is simplified compared to the crowning cornice. The interfloor cornice visually divides the facade into tiers, creating proportions. It is especially effective on long walls—without division, the wall looks monotonous; the cornice structures the plane.

The plinth cornice separates the plinth (the lower part of the wall, 50-80 centimeters high, usually protruding or decorated with rustication) and the main wall. Width 10-15 centimeters. Its function is to serve as a visual boundary, emphasizing that the building stands on a solid foundation.

The windowsill cornice is installed under windows, creating a horizontal line and protecting the windowsill from water running off the window. Width 8-12 centimeters, length 10-15 centimeters greater than the window width on each side.

Pilasters and columns: verticals that set the scale

Pilasters are flat vertical projections of rectangular cross-section, imitating a column but not bearing loads. Width 15-30 centimeters, projection from the wall 3-8 centimeters, height spanning an entire floor or from the plinth to the crowning cornice. Pilasters are installed at building corners, on both sides of the entrance, and divide long walls into sections.

The structure of a pilaster includes a base (lower expansion 30-50 centimeters high with a profiled foundation), a body (vertical part—smooth, rusticated, or with fluting), and a capital (upper completion 40-60 centimeters high with decorative elements—volutes in the Ionic order, acanthus leaves in the Corinthian, abacus and echinus in the Doric).

Columns are vertical elements with a circular cross-section. They are used less frequently than pilasters due to greater installation complexity and cost, but create a more expressive volume. Diameter 25-40 centimeters, height 2.5-3.5 meters. They are used for decorating entrance groups (a portal with two columns on either side of the door and an entablature above), open terraces, and balconies. A column consists of a base, a shaft (smooth or with fluting—vertical grooves that create play of light and shadow and visually lighten the massiveness), and a capital.

Window surrounds: architraves, pediments, keystones

Windows without surrounds look like holes in the wall. Surrounds turn them into architectural elements, creating a hierarchy of the facade.Polyurethane molding on a window facadeincludes several types of elements.

Architraves are vertical and horizontal strips 10-20 centimeters wide, framing the opening around the perimeter. The profile is smooth (modern style, minimalism) or ornamented (classical, Baroque). Architraves are installed 3-5 centimeters from the window frame, creating a visible frame. Their function is to visually highlight the window and protect the reveals from direct rain.

A pediment is a horizontal canopy above a window. It projects from the wall by 10-20 centimeters, width 10-30 centimeters greater than the window width. Shape: straight (modern style), triangular (classical pediment), arched (Baroque), broken (pediment with a central break into which a decorative element is inserted—cartouche, coat of arms, mascaron). The pediment protects the window from rain—water runs off the canopy to the sides, not onto the frame and reveals. This extends the window's service life by 10-15 years.

A keystone is a decorative element of trapezoidal or rectangular shape, installed in the center of the upper part of the architrave (at the junction of vertical and horizontal strips). It imitates the keystone of an arched structure—the central stone that locks the vault. Height 15-40 centimeters, decoration smooth, carved (floral ornaments, mascarons—faces, heraldry) or geometric. The keystone creates a vertical accent, drawing attention to the window.

Brackets (consoles) are side supporting elements installed under the pediment. Shape: S-shaped (volute), leaf-shaped, geometric. Brackets create the illusion that the pediment rests on them, although structurally the pediment is attached to the wall with anchors. Decorative function—adding volume and complexity to the composition.

Rustication and quoins: imitation of stone masonry

Rustication is a technique of classical architecture that imitates masonry made of large stones (ashlars).Facades of houses with polyurethane stuccooften include rusticated elements to create an impression of monumentality and solidity.

Rustication is a rectangular or square element measuring 30×50, 40×60, 50×80 centimeters, projecting from the wall plane by 20-50 millimeters. Surface: smooth (polished stone), textured bumpy (wild stone), faceted (diamond rustication), with a chamfer (beveled edges creating clear geometry).

Corner rustication — rustication is installed vertically on the corners of the building, alternating in height (long-short-long) or uniform. Creates the effect that the building is constructed from massive corner blocks, imparting strength. The central part of the facade is smooth, corners are accentuated — a classic proportion.

Base rustication — rustication covers the entire surface of the base (the lower 60-100 centimeters of the wall), creating a continuous imitation of stone masonry. The upper part of the wall is smooth or plastered. Effect — the building stands on a solid stone foundation.

Inter-floor rustication — a horizontal belt of rustication at the level of the inter-floor slab. Rustication runs in a continuous line around the entire perimeter of the building, visually separating the first floor from the second.

Decorative elements: accents and details

Rosettes — round or oval flat elements with a diameter of 30-80 centimeters with relief ornamentation (floral motifs, geometric patterns, solar symbols). Installed above the entrance, in the tympanum of the pediment, on the frieze. Function — a decorative accent that attracts attention.

Cartouches — oval or shield-shaped elements with a smooth field for placing a coat of arms, monogram, inscription. Size 40×60, 50×80 centimeters. Installed above the entrance, in the center of the pediment, on the facade wall. Create personalization of the building.

Mascarons — decorative masks (faces of people, animals, mythological creatures), installed as keystones, on brackets, in cornice decoration. Size 20×30, 30×40 centimeters. Tradition dates back to antiquity, when masks served as amulets.

Balusters and balustrades — a railing system for porches, terraces, balconies. Baluster — a vertical post with a height of 70-90 centimeters, cross-section round with a diameter of 8-12 centimeters or square 8×8, 10×10 centimeters. Balusters are installed with a spacing of 12-15 centimeters between support posts, topped with a handrail. Polyurethane balusters for the facade are lighter than wooden ones, do not rot, and do not require annual painting.

Selection features: how facade polyurethane differs from interior polyurethane

A critical mistake of novice developers — using interior molding on the facade. After a year, such decor yellows, after two it cracks and begins to crumble. Why? Because interior and facade polyurethane are different materials.

Density and strength

Interior polyurethane has a density of 180-220 kilograms per cubic meter. This is sufficient for work inside premises, where there are no wind loads, impacts, or temperature extremes. Facade polyurethane is denser — 300-400 kilograms per cubic meter. Increased density provides resistance to impacts (falling branches, hail, accidental mechanical impacts), wind loads (a wide cornice with a large overhang experiences significant wind pressure), and thermal deformations.

UV stabilization

Ultraviolet radiation destroys polymers, breaking molecular chains. Interior polyurethane does not contain UV stabilizers — there is no direct sunlight inside the premises. On the facade without protection, it will yellow in 6-12 months (especially quickly on the south side), after 2-3 years it will begin to crack and crumble.

Facade polyurethane contains UV stabilizers — chemical additives (benzophenones, benzotriazoles, hindered amine light stabilizers) that absorb ultraviolet light or neutralize free radicals formed during irradiation. This extends the service life to 50-70 years without loss of color and strength.

Frost resistance

Interior polyurethane is not tested for frost resistance — there are no sub-zero temperatures inside the premises. Facade polyurethane undergoes freeze-thaw cycle testing. The element is immersed in water (although polyurethane does not absorb water, the surface is tested), frozen to -40 degrees, thawed to +20, the cycle is repeated 300 times. After this, strength, elasticity, and absence of cracks are checked. High-quality facade polyurethane withstands this without changes.

Operating temperature range

Interior polyurethane is designed for +5 to +30 degrees. Facade polyurethane — for -60 to +80 degrees. This is important not only for extreme climate zones but also for ordinary conditions. A dark facade surface on a sunny summer day heats up to +60 to +70 degrees even when the air temperature is +30. Interior polyurethane softens under such heating and may deform. Facade polyurethane retains its shape.

Facade installation technology: strength for decades

Installation of facade molding differs from interior installation with stricter requirements for fastening, sealing, and moisture protection.polyurethane molding for house facadeswill last the claimed decades only with proper installation.

Foundation Preparation

The facade must be strong, dry, clean. If the walls are insulated using the 'wet facade' technology (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool, reinforcing mesh, plaster layer), decor is installed after the final plaster has completely dried — at least 14 days in summer, 21 days in autumn-spring.

Old facades require inspection. Tap the plaster with a rubber mallet — a dull sound indicates delamination; such areas need to be removed down to the solid base and re-plastered. Cracks in the plaster are widened, reinforced with mesh, and filled with repair compound. Installing decor on cracked plaster means dooming it to delamination along with the fallen plaster section in a year or two.

Biological contamination (green algae on the north side, black mold in shaded corners) is treated with fungicidal compounds, allowed to stand according to instructions (usually 4-8 hours), and washed off with water under pressure. After cleaning, the facade dries for at least 5-7 days before installation.

Priming is mandatory. Deep penetration facade primer (Ceresit CT17, equivalents) strengthens the base, reduces absorbency, improves adhesive adhesion. Applied with a roller or sprayer in one or two coats. Installation can begin 24 hours after priming.

Marking: accuracy is critical

Unevenly installed decor on the facade is visible from afar. Use a laser level or water level to create precise horizontal and vertical lines. For the crowning cornice, marking goes from the roof downwards — measure the height of the cornice, measure this distance from the edge of the roof downwards, draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the building with a laser, mark it on the wall with a pencil or chalk.

For the inter-floor cornice, marking is tied to the slab — the line must run strictly at the level of the floor slab or slightly below (by 5-10 centimeters). For window surrounds, marking is individual for each opening — measure the window dimensions, determine the position of the architraves (usually at a distance of 3-5 centimeters from the frame), draw lines using a level.

Adhesive and fasteners

For the facade, specialized adhesives are used: polyurethane adhesive foams (Ceresit CT84, Tytan Styro, Penosil FixFoam) or cement adhesives for insulation (Ceresit CT85, Knauf Sevener). Adhesive foam is more convenient — applied with a gun, expands, filling irregularities, sets in 20-30 minutes. Cement adhesive is cheaper but requires mixing with water, sets slowly (2-4 hours).

Adhesive is applied to the back of the element in strips: for a cornice up to 20 centimeters wide — two longitudinal strips; for a cornice 20-40 centimeters wide — three strips (along the edges and in the center). The element is placed against the wall according to the markings and pressed. For long cornices, this is done by two people using a long straightedge or a flat board for even pressure.

Mechanical fastening is mandatory for heavy elements with large overhang. Cornices wider than 25 centimeters, pilasters, columns, and large window surrounds are additionally secured with facade dowels. The dowel must penetrate the load-bearing wall (brick, concrete, block) to a minimum depth of 60 millimeters. Dowel length = insulation thickness + plaster thickness + element thickness + 60 mm embedment depth.

The hole is drilled with a hammer drill through the element into the wall after gluing (when the adhesive has set but not fully cured — after 4-8 hours for foam adhesive, after 24-48 hours for cement adhesive). The dowel is hammered or screwed in, the head is countersunk 3-5 millimeters below the surface, the recess is filled with facade acrylic putty, sanded, and painted — the fastening point becomes invisible.

Number of fastening points: element up to 1 meter long — 2 dowels (at the edges); 1-2 meters long — 3 dowels (edges and center); longer than 2 meters — every 70-80 centimeters.

Sealing joints and seams

Joints on the facade are a critical area. Water can penetrate the seams, freeze in winter, expand, and destroy the connection. Therefore, joints are not just filled with putty but sealed with elastic compounds.

After installing the elements, the seams between them and the areas where they meet the wall are filled with facade acrylic sealant (Ceresit CS25, Soudal, equivalents). Sealant is squeezed into the seam from a tube with a narrow nozzle, smoothed with a wet rubber spatula or a gloved finger, and excess is removed. After polymerization (24-48 hours), the sealant is elastic, does not crack under thermal deformation, and is waterproof. The sealant is then painted over with facade paint along with all the decor.

Wide gaps (more than 5 millimeters) are first filled with pieces of polyurethane or foam sealant, then sealed. Filling deep seams only with sealant will lead to significant shrinkage and cracking.

Horizontal surfaces of elements (top planes of cornices, pediments, window sills) are areas where water and snow accumulate. After painting, an additional layer of hydrophobic agent — a composition that creates a water-repellent film — is applied to these surfaces. Water rolls off in droplets without being absorbed, extending the service life.

Painting and protection

Polyurethane is supplied white and primed. Painting is done with facade paints — acrylic, silicone, silicate. They form an elastic, vapor-permeable coating resistant to UV, precipitation, and frost. Interior paints on the facade will deteriorate within one season.

Painting is done in two to three coats. The first coat is the base and may apply unevenly. The second evens out the color and density. The third (if necessary) provides final saturation. Drying time between coats — according to the paint instructions, usually 4-8 hours.

For maximum durability, a protective varnish — facade polyurethane or acrylic-polyurethane — is applied after painting. The varnish provides additional protection against moisture, dirt, and UV. Varnish renewal frequency — every 5-7 years (simply apply a new coat with a roller without removing the old one). This maintains protection for decades.

Facade design: stylistic solutions

Polyurethane stucco on a house facadeallows the implementation of almost any architectural style — from strict classicism to contemporary minimalism.

Classicism: symmetry and proportions

A classical facade is built on symmetry, clear proportions, and an order system. A crowning cornice with modillions emphasizes the roofline. Pilasters divide the facade into three or five sections (central part and side wings). An inter-floor cornice separates the first floor from the second. Windows are framed with architraves and pediments — triangular on the second floor, straight on the first. The entrance group is decorated with a portal with columns and a pediment.

Colors are calm — white, cream, beige for walls, white for stucco. Contrast is moderate — stucco is half a tone to a full tone lighter than the walls. This creates volume without harshness.

Baroque: Opulence and Ornamentation

A Baroque facade is rich in decoration. Cornices have complex profiles with large modillions and carvings. Windows are framed with wide, ornamented architraves; pediments are arched or broken with cartouches; keystones have mascaron carvings. Pilasters have carved capitals. The entrance group is abundantly decorated with rosettes, cartouches, and stucco ornamentation.

Colors are contrasting — bright walls (ochre, terracotta, green) and snow-white stucco. The contrast creates drama, emphasizing each decorative element.

Neoclassicism: laconic elegance

A neoclassical facade simplifies classicism, preserving proportions but removing excessive decoration. Cornices have simple profiles without modillions. Pilasters are smooth with minimalist capitals. Windows are framed with narrow architraves with straight pediments or without them. Keystones are restrained, without carvings.

Colors are neutral — gray, graphite, white. Stucco can match the wall color (tonal contrast achieved through relief and light play) or be contrasting (white on gray, dark on white).

Modern style: minimalism and geometry

A contemporary facade uses stucco sparingly, creating accents. Simple, smooth cornices emphasize the building's geometry. Windows may be framed with minimalist moldings without decoration. Corner rustication creates structure. Decorative elements are absent — only functional lines.

Colors are monochrome — white, black, gray. Stucco matches the wall color or is contrasting (black on white, white on black). The effect is clear, graphic architecture.

Practical tips: how to avoid mistakes

First mistake: using interior polyurethane on the facade. Result — yellowing, cracking, deterioration within 2-3 years. Solution: only buy facade polyurethane marked 'for exterior use,' with UV stabilizers and frost resistance F200-F300.

Second mistake: installation on an unstable substrate. Peeling plaster will fall off along with the decor within a year. Solution: thorough preparation — tapping, removing unstable areas, priming.

Third mistake: lack of mechanical fastening for heavy elements. A wide cornice held only by adhesive — within a year or two, under wind, thermal deformation, and its own weight, the adhesive fails, and the element detaches. Solution: mandatory additional fastening with dowels for elements wider than 20 centimeters and weighing more than 3 kilograms per meter.

Fourth mistake: poor joint sealing. Water penetrates the seams, freezes in winter, and destroys the connection. After several cycles, seams open, and joints become visible. Solution: mandatory sealing of all joints with facade acrylic sealant followed by painting.

Mistake five: using interior paint. On the facade, it will peel off during the first winter. Solution: only facade paints with frost resistance, UV protection, and vapor permeability.

Answers to frequently asked questions about facade molding

How much does polyurethane facade molding cost?

Prices in 2026: cornices 400-1200 rubles per meter depending on width and profile complexity, window trims 2500-6000 rubles per set for one window, pilasters 3000-8000 rubles each depending on height, columns 15000-40000 rubles per pair, rustications 200-600 rubles each. Complete decoration of a house facade of 150-200 square meters — 80-150 thousand rubles for materials.

How long does polyurethane molding last on the facade?

High-quality facade polyurethane with UV stabilizer, when properly installed and painted, lasts 50-70 years without loss of strength or appearance. This is confirmed by frost resistance tests (over 300 cycles) and real-world practice—facades decorated 20-25 years ago still look excellent.

Can molding be installed in winter?

In heated rooms — yes, without restrictions. On the facade — with limitations. Most adhesives work at temperatures not lower than +5 degrees Celsius. There are special winter adhesives that work down to -10 degrees, but it is better to carry out facade work in spring, summer, and autumn at positive temperatures. In winter, you can prepare elements (cutting, fitting) and install them in spring.

Does polyurethane fade in the sun?

Facade polyurethane with UV stabilizers does not fade for decades. Interior polyurethane without protection will yellow within a year on the south side. Therefore, it is critical to purchase specifically facade material. Additionally, high-quality facade paint with UV filters and periodic renewal of protective varnish (every 5-7 years) provides extra protection.

What density of polyurethane is needed for the facade?

Minimum 300 kilograms per cubic meter, optimally 350-400. This ensures strength, resistance to impacts, and wind loads. Interior polyurethane with a density of 180-220 kg/m³ is not strong enough for the facade, may deform when heated, and can be damaged by hail or branches.

Does polyurethane molding on the facade need to be painted?

Yes, definitely. Although polyurethane is supplied primed, the primer is only a preparation for painting, not a finish coating. Without painting, the primer will darken from dust and atmospheric pollution within a year or two, and UV protection will weaken. Painting with facade paint in 2-3 layers followed by a protective varnish coating creates a durable finish.

How is polyurethane facade molding better than concrete?

Weight is 15-20 times less, eliminating the need for wall reinforcement. Installation is 10 times faster, can be done by 2 people without special equipment. Price is 5-10 times lower considering material and installation costs. Moisture resistance is absolute (concrete absorbs moisture, deteriorates in winter). Detail is higher (polyurethane is cast in precise molds, concrete has a rough texture). Repairability is better (damaged elements are easily replaced, concrete ones need to be chiseled out).

Can molding be glued onto an old facade?

Yes, if the old coating is strong. Check by tapping — a dull sound indicates delamination; such areas need to be removed. Strong areas are primed with facade primer, and after drying, decor can be installed. If more than 30 percent of the surface is not strong — it is better to completely redo the plaster, otherwise the decor will fall off along with the old coating.

Howpolyurethane molding for facade windowsprotects windows?

A pediment (canopy over the window) diverts rainwater to the sides, preventing it from running down the frame and seeping into the joints. This extends the lifespan of windows by 10-15 years. Trims protect slopes from direct precipitation, preventing plaster delamination. The windowsill cornice protects the windowsill from water running off the window.

Conclusion: architectural perfection with STAVROS

polyurethane stucco for the house facade— is not just decoration, but an architectural transformation. An ordinary boxy house gains style, character, and individuality. Cornices structure the facade, pilasters create verticals and proportions, framed windows become architectural accents, the entrance group invites and impresses.

With the correct choice of material (density 300-400 kg/m³, UV stabilization, frost resistance F300), quality installation (solid base, proper adhesive, mechanical fastening of heavy elements, sealing of joints), and protective painting (facade paints in 2-3 layers, protective varnish), such decor lasts 50-70 years, maintaining a flawless appearance.

Company STAVROS — a leading supplier of architectural decor in Russia — offers a full range ofpolyurethane facade moldingEuropean quality. The material is made from compositions with a density of 350-400 kg/m³ with UV stabilization and frost resistance of over 300 cycles, guaranteeing durability in any Russian climate — from Sochi to Yakutsk.

The range includes over 1200 SKUs of facade decor: cornices from laconic beads to lush baroque profiles up to 40 centimeters wide, trims for windows and doors of all sizes and styles, pediments — straight, triangular, arched, keystones with carvings and mascaron, rustications — corner and interfloor, pilasters and half-columns of classical orders, columns with flutes and smooth, balusters for porches and terraces, decorative overlays, rosettes, cartouches, brackets.

All products are supplied white, primed with UV-protective primer, with precise geometry and even joining surfaces. Installation proceeds without issues — elements fit together perfectly, requiring no adjustment or rework.

STAVROS professional designers will develop a concept for decorating your facade, taking into account the architectural style of the building, landscape, and your wishes. 3D visualization allows you to see the result before work begins, make adjustments, and choose the optimal solution. Material calculation, component selection, installation diagrams, recommendations for adhesives and paints — full project support.

Delivery throughout Russia and to Eurasian Economic Union countries — Belarus, Kazakhstan, Armenia, Kyrgyzstan. EAEU goods move without customs duties — you pay only the product price and transportation delivery.

Visit STAVROS showrooms in Moscow and St. Petersburg to see material samples, evaluate detailing quality, and receive professional consultation. Or order through the website — detailed photos, precise dimensions, and technical information will help you make the right choice.

Create facades that inspire awe. Transform houses into architecture. With quality STAVROS moldings and proper installation technology, your home will gain individuality and style that will delight for decades. Trust experience — trust STAVROS.