Installing Balusters and Handrails on a Wooden Staircase DIY Style 2026: A Do-It-Yourself Approach for the Modern Craftsman

There is a special satisfaction in creating something with your own hands. When you tighten the last screw, when you run your hand over a perfectly smooth handrail, when you see sunlight playing on polished balusters — at that moment you realize: I did it. Not a hired crew, not a contractor with a dubious reputation, but you yourself.Installing balusters and handrails on a wooden staircaseDoing it yourself — it's not just a way to save on professional labor. It's an opportunity to fully control the quality, realize your own vision, gain invaluable experience, and, honestly, feel a little proud of the result.

In 2026, the DIY culture is experiencing a new boom. People are tired of standard solutions, of hiring craftsmen who do things 'as they always do,' rather than 'as you need.' The modern homeowner is not just a consumer of services — they are a craftsman, ready to pick up a tool and create something unique. Fortunately, technology has come to the rescue: detailed video instructions, professional tools at affordable prices, quality materials and fasteners — all of this makes installing a staircase railing a very realistic task, even for those who have never done carpentry before.

This article is your detailed guide. We will coverstaircase concerns every homeowner striving to create not just a functional structure, but a true focal point in the interior. Properly installed railing ensures not only safe movement but also gives the staircase a finished, professional appearance.the staircase from A to Z: from choosing tools and planning the project to final finishing and fixing typical mistakes. Here, there will be no complex terminology or professional jargon — only practical tips, step-by-step instructions, and real recommendations that work.

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Assess your capabilities: a realistic view of the task

Before rushing to the store for tools, it's important to honestly evaluate the scale of the task.Install balusters and handrails on a wooden staircasedoing it yourself — this is a medium-complexity project that will require time, patience, and attention to detail.

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What you will need

Time. For a straight staircase with 12-15 steps and 15-20 balusters, plan at least 2-3 full working days. Day one — preparation, marking, installing balusters. Day two — installing handrails, fitting. Day three — final finishing, sanding, coating. If you have a spiral or L-shaped staircase, add another 1-2 days for complex joints.

Physical preparation. The work does not require superhuman strength, but it involves constant awkward positions: kneeling, reaching with extended arms, leaning. If you have back or knee problems, consider getting help or doing the work in short sessions with breaks.

Basic skills. You should be able to use a drill, screwdriver, handsaw, measuring tools. If you've never held a drill — start with simpler projects. If you've assembled furniture, built shelves, or repaired wooden structures — this project is within your capabilities.

Accuracy and patience. The most important quality for this job — the ability to repeatedly measure, check, and align every detail. Rushing here is your enemy. One incorrectly installed baluster will ruin the appearance of the entire row. One poorly cut handrail will require redoing. Are you ready for methodical, meticulous work?

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When to better entrust professionals

Be honest with yourself: there are situations when doing it yourself is not the best idea. If your staircase has a complex spiral structure with a variable radius of curvature. If balusters need to be installed on a metal or concrete frame. If the staircase is located at the height of the second or third floor above an open space, and even the slightest mistake could lead to serious injury. If you don’t have the physical ability to work for several days in a row. In these cases, it’s wiser to hire experienced professionals and focus on controlling the quality of their work.

Project Planning: Where to Start

SuccessfulInstallation of Wooden Balusters and HandrailsIt doesn’t start with the first screw, but with careful planning.

Choosing Balusters and Handrails

First, decide on style and material. Balusters can be turned (classic, rounded shapes), carved (with decorative elements), flat (Slavic style), or minimalist (square or rectangular cross-section). Your choice depends on your interior’s overall style and personal preferences.

Material: Oak is the strongest and most durable, but expensive. Ash is light, strong, slightly cheaper than oak. Beech offers the best price-to-quality ratio. Pine is a budget option but requires mandatory protective treatment. For DIY projects, I recommend beech or ash — they are easier to work with than dense oak, yet the result will be high-quality and long-lasting.

Handrails: A standard round handrail with a 50 mm diameter is a universal solution, comfortable for the hand. Oval or rectangular profiles suit modern interiors. It’s important that the handrail and balusters are made of the same wood species or at least the same tone — this creates visual unity.

Calculating Quantity

Balusters. Building codes require that the distance between vertical elements does not exceed 150 mm. For families with children, 100–120 mm is recommended. Standard approach — 1–2 balusters per step.

Calculation formula: (number of steps × number of balusters per step) + 2 support posts at the ends of the stair run. For example, for a staircase with 14 steps and 2 balusters per step: 14 × 2 + 2 = 30 balusters.

Handrails. Measure the length of the stair run along the slope (from the first to the last step). Add 20–30 cm for fitting and possible errors when cutting angles. Handrails are usually sold in 2–3 meter sections, so calculate how many sections you will need.

Fasteners and Supplies. Shanks or bolts — number of balusters × 2 (for top and bottom mounting). Self-tapping screws — buy with a reserve, packs of 100–200 pieces of different lengths (50, 70, 90 mm). Wood glue — at least 1 liter. Sandpaper, stain, or varnish — as needed.

Creating a Sketch and Layout

Draw a sketch of your staircase indicating the position of each baluster. You can do it by hand on paper or in a simple program like SketchUp. The key is to visualize how everything will look. Mark dimensions, distances, and features (for example, the location of the turn on the landing).

Print the sketch and keep it handy during work — it’s your guide. Mark each installed baluster on the sketch to avoid mistakes.

Tools: Essential Minimum and Useful Additions

The right tool is half the success. Forinstalling balusters on a wooden staircase yourselfyou will need the following.

Essential Minimum

Measuring Tools:

• 5-meter tape measure

• 60–80 cm level (preferably two — short and long)

• Square

• Protractor or angle gauge for measuring angles

• Pencil and marker

Power Tools:

• Drill or drill-driver (power 500 W)

• Set of wood drill bits: 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 mm

• Drill (if you have a drill without a screwdriver function)

• Circular saw or jigsaw for cutting angles

• Orbital sander (preferred, but manual sanding is possible)

Hand tools:

• Fine-toothed wood saw

• Hammer 300-400 g

• Wooden or rubber mallet

• Set of chisels

• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)

• Clamps, 2-4 pieces

Consumables:

• Sandpaper grits 80, 120, 180, 220

• Painter's tape

• Wet cloths for removing excess glue

• Gloves and safety goggles

Useful additions

Drill stand — turns a handheld drill into a mini machine, ensuring perfectly perpendicular drilling. Price around 2000-3000 rubles, but significantly simplifies work and improves accuracy.

Laser level — for quick and accurate marking of horizontal and vertical lines. Especially useful when installing a large number of balusters.

Battery-powered tools — if possible, use a cordless drill and screwdriver. The absence of a cord greatly increases work comfort, especially when moving up and down stairs.

Preparation stage: laying the foundation for success

Check the staircase

Before installing the railing, ensure the staircase is in good condition. All steps must be firmly secured, not creak or sag. The step surface must be flat, without major defects. If any issues are found — fix them now, otherwise it will be too late.

Clean the staircase of dust and construction debris. If steps are coated with varnish or paint in areas where balusters will be mounted, lightly sand these areas for better glue adhesion.

Accurate marking — the foundation of everything

Marking — the most important stage, determining the entire result. Start by installing temporary support posts on the first and last steps. Check their vertical alignment with a level. Stretch a string or twine between them — this will be your approximate line for baluster placement.

Mark the points for baluster installation on each step. Use a tape measure to ensure equal distances from the step edge and between balusters. Professional tip — make a marking template: a wooden strip with a cutout whose distance from the edge exactly matches your marking. When applying the template to each step, you quickly and accurately mark all points without error.

Use a level and square to draw a vertical line from each mark — this way, you’ll see exactly where the baluster should be placed in full, not just its center.

Baluster preparation

Unpack all balusters and lay them out on a flat surface. Carefully inspect each one for defects — cracks, chips, unevenness. Check the height of all balusters — they must be identical to within 1-2 mm. If discrepancies are found, sort the balusters and distribute them so the difference is less noticeable.

Check the ends — they must be perfectly flat and perpendicular to the baluster’s axis. If not — trim with a circular saw or sand them.

For inclined staircases, the top ends of balusters must be cut at an angle. Measure your staircase’s incline angle with a protractor (usually 30-45 degrees). Set this angle on the circular saw and cut all top ends. After cutting, the baluster’s top end should be perpendicular to the staircase’s incline line, ensuring tight fit for the handrail support board.

Baluster installation: step-by-step guide

There are several methods of attachment. For a DIY project, I recommend two of the simplest and most reliable: using wooden dowels and metal bolts. We'll examine both in detail.

Method 1: Mounting with wooden dowels

This is a classic carpentry method, providing a strong and completely invisible connection.Installing wooden balusters yourselfUsing dowels requires precision, but the result is worth it.

What you'll need: wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm and length of 80 mm (2 per baluster), 9.5 mm drill bit, PVA carpentry glue, hammer, level.

Step-by-step instructions:

Step 1. Drilling holes in the treads. At the marked point on the tread, drill a vertical hole 40 mm deep and 9.5 mm in diameter (slightly smaller than the dowel diameter for a tight fit). Use a drill depth stop or wrap painter’s tape around the drill bit at 40 mm from the tip — this will help prevent drilling deeper than necessary.

It is critically important to drill strictly vertically. If you have a drill press — use it. If using a handheld drill — concentrate fully, and use a square to ensure the drill bit is perpendicular to the tread.

Step 2. Drilling holes in the balusters. Drill a hole 40 mm deep and 9.5 mm in diameter at the center of the bottom end of each baluster. Finding the center is simple — draw diagonals across the square or rectangular base (the baluster’s base), and the point where they intersect is the center.

For drilling the end, use either a drill press, a drill stand, or drill very carefully with a handheld drill, placing the baluster horizontally and clamping it securely.

Step 3. Installing dowels in the treads. Take a dowel, generously coat it with carpentry glue on all sides. Tap it (through a wooden pad to avoid damaging the dowel’s end) into the tread hole to half its length — approximately 35–40 mm. The protruding part should also be about 40 mm.

Let the glue partially set (5–10 minutes) so the dowel doesn’t pop back out when installing the baluster.

Step 4. Installing the baluster. Coat the protruding part of the dowel and the bottom end of the baluster around the hole with glue. Slide the baluster onto the dowel, aligning the hole with the protrusion. Carefully, without sharp blows, press the baluster into place, tapping gently on the top end with a mallet. The base of the baluster should fit snugly against the tread with no gaps.

Step 5. Checking and securing. Immediately check the baluster’s vertical alignment using a long level in two planes — along the staircase and across. If the baluster is misaligned, you have 2–3 minutes before the glue starts to set to make adjustments. Gently tilt the baluster in the desired direction, achieving perfect vertical alignment.

Secure the baluster in a vertical position using temporary supports (you can use boards leaned at an angle) or painter’s tape attached to the baluster and tread. Leave until the glue is fully dry — at least 12 hours, preferably 24 hours.

Step 6. Cleaning. Immediately wipe away any excess glue protruding at the joint with a damp cloth. After drying, the glue will be much harder to remove.

Repeat this process for all balusters. Work methodically, don’t rush. It’s better to install 5 balusters properly than 15 hastily.

Method 2: Mounting with metal screws

A more advanced method, providing maximum strength.installation of wooden balustersSuitable for heavily used staircases.

What you'll need: M8 metal threaded bolts 100 mm long (2 per baluster), 7.5 mm and 8 mm drill bits, M8 nuts and washers, carpentry glue, wrenches.

Step-by-step instructions:

Step 1. Installing bolts in the balusters. Drill a hole 50 mm deep and 7.5 mm in diameter at the center of the bottom end of the baluster (slightly smaller than the bolt diameter). Apply glue to the hole. Screw the bolt into the hole to full depth using two locknuts as handles. The bolt should go in 45–50 mm, leaving a smooth, metric-threaded portion 50–55 mm long exposed.

Let the glue fully dry (24 hours). This is important — the bolt must be permanently seated in the baluster.

Step 2. Drilling holes in the treads. If your staircase has access to the underside of the treads (open construction on stringers), use through-bolt installation. Drill a hole 8 mm in diameter straight through the tread at the marked point.

If access is not available — drill a blind hole 55–60 mm deep and 8 mm in diameter.

Step 3. Installing the baluster — Option A (through-bolt installation). Place the baluster in position so the bolt passes through the tread hole and protrudes from the bottom. Slide a large washer onto the bottom of the tread and tighten the nut. Tighten the nut with a wrench, pulling the baluster against the tread. Do not over-tighten — just feel good resistance.

Check the baluster’s vertical alignment and adjust if necessary by slightly loosening the nut, aligning the baluster, and retightening.

Step 3. Installing the baluster — Option B (blind-bolt installation). Apply glue to the blind hole in the tread. Place the baluster, aligning the bolt with the hole. Press firmly or gently tap the top end of the baluster to drive the bolt fully into the hole. Check vertical alignment and secure until the glue dries.

The advantage of this method — with through-bolt installation, you can always tighten the nut over time if the connection loosens. This provides additional reliability and longevity.

Installation of Support Posts

Support posts are installed on the first tread (or before it) and on the top landing — more massive elements with a cross-section of typically 80x80 or 100x100 mm. They serve as primary support points for the entire railing system.

Support posts are secured more robustly — use long M10 or M12 bolts with through-bolt installation and tightening from below. You can also use additional metal reinforcing plates. The support post must withstand significant loads, so do not economize on fasteners here.

Installing the handrail: the final touch

After all balusters are installed and the glue is fully dry, proceed to install the handrail. This is the most critical part, determining the final appearance of the staircase.

Preparing the handrail support rail

The handrail support board — a horizontal block that connects all balusters from the top and serves as the base for the handrail. Using a board is a professional standard, ensuring maximum structural rigidity. Understanding how toattach wooden handrails to balustersbegins with proper preparation of the handrail support board.

Board fabrication. Take a 50x70 mm block, the length equal to the staircase run (from the first to the last post/baluster). If the staircase is inclined, cut the lower longitudinal edge of the board at an angle matching the staircase's incline.

How to determine the angle? Place the board on the upper ends of the two outermost balusters. Observe how it lies — if the baluster ends were correctly milled, the board should lie horizontally (relative to the run's incline) along its entire length. If the board wobbles or gaps exist — there is an error in the baluster ends' milling. Correct it before attaching the board.

Marking balusters on the board. Place the board on the upper ends of all balusters. Trace the outline of each baluster with a pencil on the underside of the board. Remove the board — you now have an accurate marking of all baluster positions.

Attaching the board to balusters. Apply wood glue to the upper ends of all balusters. Place the board in position, aligning balusters with the markings. Secure the board with screws, driving them vertically upward from below the board into the baluster ends.

Use 60-70 mm screws, one precisely centered at each end. Drill pilot holes 3 mm in diameter beforehand to avoid splitting the ends. Screws driven from below are fully concealed — this ensures a clean joint.

Check the structure's rigidity — grasp the board and try to rock it. All balusters must be rigidly connected through the board, with no play.

Handrail fitting and installation

The handrail is the crown of the entire structure, the element that people will touch daily. It must be perfectly smooth, precisely fitted, and securely fastened.

Measuring and milling. Measure the exact length the handrail must have — from the first support post to the last. Add 2-3 cm on each side as a safety margin. On support posts, the handrail will be milled at a right angle and will abut vertical post surfaces.

Use a miter saw to mill the handrail ends precisely at 90 degrees. If you don't have a miter saw — use a miter box and a fine-toothed hand saw. The key — a perfectly flat, perpendicular cut without splinters.

Milling the groove (optional). Professional method — cut a longitudinal groove at the bottom of the handrail, width matching the support board's width (usually 50 mm), and depth 10-15 mm. The handrail slides onto the board via this groove — resulting in a very strong and neat joint.

To mill the groove, you need a handheld router and a straight bit. If you don't have a router — no problem, you can skip the groove, simply placing the handrail on top of the board.

Installing the handrail. Apply glue to the upper surface of the handrail support board (or into the handrail's groove, if present). Install the handrail in place. Clamp it using soft pads (to avoid damaging the handrail). If a groove is used — the handrail will slide onto the board like a lid.

Secure the handrail with screws driven from below through the support board vertically upward into the handrail. Use 50-60 mm screws, placing them between balusters (to avoid hitting screws used to attach the board to balusters). Screw spacing — 30-40 cm.

Alternative option (if no groove): drive screws from above through the handrail into the board, previously drilling pilot holes and recesses for concealed screw heads. After tightening, cover the screw heads with wooden plugs, which are then sanded flush.

Attachment to support posts. At the ends of the handrail, the handrail must be additionally secured to the support posts. On the inner side (not visible when ascending the ladder), drill a through hole through the post to the end of the handrail. Screw in a long self-tapping screw 90-100 mm to secure the handrail to the post. The hole can be covered with a wooden plug or left open if it is on the invisible side.

Finish handrails for turns

If your staircase has a turn on a landing, you will need to join two handrails at an angle. This is one of the most complex moments.

Simple solution: use a ready-made connector — an angle bracket or special coupling. These are available in stair component stores.

Complex solution: mill both handrails at a 45-degree angle (for a 90-degree turn) and join them with glue. This requires very precise milling and good tools. Not recommended for beginners — it's easier to use ready-made elements.

Final finishing: transforming the structure into a work of art

Sanding

Even high-quality balusters and handrails require final sanding after installation. During installation, minor scratches, tool marks, and unevenness inevitably appear.

Use an orbital sander with 120-grit sandpaper for initial treatment, then 180 and 220 for final sanding. Sand along the wood grain, without heavy pressure. Pay special attention to the handrail — it must be silky smooth, with no imperfections.

After sanding, thoroughly remove all wood dust — with a vacuum cleaner, then wipe with a damp cloth and let dry.

Filling mounting locations

If screws with visible heads were used, fill the recesses with wooden plugs. Cut plugs with a special drill-bit from the same wood species. Apply glue and press into the recesses. After drying, trim the protruding part flush with a chisel and sand it smooth.

Protective Coating

Final touch — applying protective finish. For interior staircases use:

Polyurethane varnish — the strongest finish, resistant to abrasion. Applied with brush or spray in 2-3 coats with intermediate sanding using fine-grit sandpaper (320). Each coat dries in 4-6 hours.

Hard wax oil — a more natural finish, enhancing wood texture. Applied with a rag in a thin layer, then rubbed in. After 15-20 minutes, excess is wiped off. Dries in 12-24 hours. Requires 2-3 coats.

Stain + varnish — if you want to change the color of the wood. First, apply the stain (1-2 coats), then after drying, cover the surface with varnish.

Work in a well-ventilated area, use a respirator when applying varnish. Avoid dust settling on fresh finish — work in a clean room, close windows.

Typical DIY mistakes and how to avoid them

Error 1: Rushing and carelessness

Problem: The master rushes to finish faster, does not repeatedly check measurements, installs balusters 'by eye'.

Consequences: Uneven baluster rows, varying distances, tilted elements. Repairs will require disassembly and may damage the material.

Solution: Work methodically, check each baluster with a level before fixing, use marking and templates. Rule: Measure seven times, cut once.

Error 2: Using cheap fasteners

Problem: Trying to save money on screws, dowels, glue.

Consequences: Fasteners loosen over time, creaking occurs, safety decreases.

Solution: Purchase quality fasteners from reputable manufacturers. This is a small part of the project budget, but it determines longevity. Use galvanized screws, professional woodworking glue.

Error 3: Ignoring the handrail support rail

Problem: Attempting to attach the handrail directly to balusters without an intermediate rail.

Consequences: Insufficient structural rigidity, difficulty aligning the handrail, weak connection points.

Solution: Always use the handrail support rail. It connects all balusters, distributes load, and creates an ideal base for the handrail.

Error 4: Incorrectly cutting angles

Problem: Ends of balusters or handrail are cut at incorrect angles or unevenly.

Consequences: Gaps in joints, poor fit of elements, unattractive appearance.

Solution: Use a circular saw with precise angle settings. If using a hand saw, use a miter gauge. Before cutting all elements, make a test cut on a scrap piece of wood.

Error 5: Lack of glue

Problem: Fastening only with mechanical fasteners without glue.

Consequences: Gaps in joints, creaking, gradual loosening.

Solution: Always use glue in addition to dowels, bolts, screws. Glue fills gaps, creating a monolithic joint.

FAQ: Answers to questions for beginner craftsmen

How long will installation take?

For a straight staircase with 15 balusters, an experienced DIY master will spend 2-3 days (6-8 hours per day). A beginner will need 3-5 days. Don't rush — quality matters more than speed.

Can I do without special tools?

Minimum required: drill, impact driver, hand saw, level, tape measure. Without these, quality work is impossible. Additional tools simplify and speed up the process, but are not absolutely necessary.

Which fastening method is easier for beginners?

Dowel fastening is technically simpler but requires precise drilling. Bolt fastening is slightly more complex but offers greater strength and adjustment capability. For the first time, I recommend dowels using a drill press.

What to do if the baluster is installed crooked?

If the glue has not yet set (first 5-10 minutes) — carefully remove the baluster, clean the spindle of glue, apply fresh glue, and reinstall, carefully checking vertical alignment. If the glue has already set — you will need to drill out the spindle and redo the joint.

Do you need help from a second person?

You can install balusters alone. For mounting long handrails, assistance is preferable — one person holds the handrail while the other secures it. However, it is possible to do it alone using temporary supports.

How to avoid chips when drilling?

Use sharp, quality drill bits. Drill at medium speeds without heavy pressure. When the bit exits from the opposite side, reduce pressure. Place a spare board under the drilling spot — it will absorb any potential chips.

Can you paint or stain already installed balusters?

Yes, but it is significantly more complex than staining before installation. If you plan to paint — it is better to paint the balusters and handrail before mounting (except for the gluing areas). After installation — only a final protective lacquer layer.

What to do with the staircase during work?

If the staircase is the only way to the second floor, work in stages: install balusters on half the steps, let the glue dry, and use that section. Then install the second half. Alternatively — install temporary wooden railings during the work.

Do you need to prime wood before applying lacquer?

For hardwoods (oak, ash, beech) priming is not mandatory. For conifers (pine) we recommend a resin-blocking primer. Use a primer from the same manufacturer as the lacquer.

How to check the strength of the finished railing?

After all joints have fully dried (minimum 48 hours after the last stage), check: grasp the handrail and try to rock it side to side with force. There should be no play, creaking, or sensation of weakness. The railing must be monolithic and rigid.

Conclusion: your success begins with the right choice

Installing balusters and handrails from woodDIY — this is a fully achievable task for a motivated craftsman. But success depends 50% on the quality of the initial materials. You can perfectly execute all technological operations, but if the balusters have inaccurate dimensions, poor-quality wood, or processing defects — the result will be mediocre.

That is why choosing a reliable supplier is critically important. STAVROS — this is a guarantee that every baluster, every handrail, every element is manufactured to the highest standards from premium wood.

Why DIY masters choose STAVROS

Over twenty years of operation, STAVROS has earned a reputation as a company that understands the needs of both professional builders and home craftsmen. In-house full-cycle production, modern CNC machines, quality control at every stage — all this guarantees perfect geometry for each element.

Why is this important for a DIY project? Because when you work by hand, you don’t have industrial equipment for fitting and finishing. You need elements that fit perfectly together right away, without additional processing. STAVROS balusters have identical height to the millimeter, flat ends, perfect cross-section. Handrails — straight, without curvature, precise dimensions. This means you’ll spend time assembling, not endlessly fitting.

Professional support for DIY masters

STAVROS doesn’t just sell materials — the company provides comprehensive support. Specialists will help calculate the required number of balusters, select the optimal type of fasteners, and recommend tools. The company’s website features detailed instructions, diagrams, and video materials for installation.

If you have questions during the work — you can always call or write, and receive qualified consultation. This is invaluable support for a home craftsman, especially if you’re doing such a project for the first time.

Wide assortment for any style

In the STAVROS catalog — over 50 baluster models: from classic turned to modern minimalist, from carved baroque to flat in Slavic style. You’ll find elements that perfectly fit your interior concept.

All components — balusters, support posts, handrails, baluster supports — are made from the same batch of wood, ensuring perfect color and texture match. This creates visual unity and a professional look for the finished staircase.

Quality proven by thousands of projects

STAVROS balusters and handrails have been installed in thousands of homes across Russia. Customer reviews confirm: quality remains consistently high, elements serve for decades without loss of strength or appearance.

Manufacturer’s warranty, careful packaging, reasonable prices for premium quality — all this makes STAVROS the optimal choice for a DIY project.

When you finish your project, when you climb the stairs with the balusters and handrails you installed with your own hands, when you feel the smoothness of the handrail under your palm — you will understand: it was worth it. You created not just a structure, but a part of your home, infused with your effort, attention, and craftsmanship.

Choose STAVROS — we will provide you with quality materials, professional consultations, and confidence in the result. Your DIY project deserves the best. Build your dream staircase by yourself — with STAVROS, it’s possible.