Article Contents:
- Load zones
- Painting and RAL
- Combinations with rails
- Repair joints
- Service Life
- Conclusion: reasonable balance
- Frequently Asked Questions
Russian style in interior design is often associated with expensive natural wood — oak floors, solid baseboards, carved door casings. This is beautiful, authentic, long-lasting, but requires significant investment. A 70 m² apartment with full wooden interior in Russian style may cost 800,000–1,200,000 rubles just for materials. For many, this is unattainable.
But Russian style is not only about expensive materials. It’s about proportions, rhythm, honesty of construction, connection to tradition. And these qualities can be embodied with fewer expenses, by intelligently combining solid wood (where it is critical) and MDF (where it performs no worse).MDF Skirting BoardIt costs 2–3 times less than oak, but after painting looks respectable and lasts for decades.
MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard, medium-density fiberboard) is pressed wood dust bonded with resins. The material is stable (does not warp from humidity), dense (holds fasteners well), uniform (ideal for painting). But it lacks the live wood texture, is less strong under intensive mechanical impacts, and is less eco-friendly (contains formaldehyde resins, though modern E1 and E0 classes are safe).
In this article, we will examine where in Russian-style interiors you can use MDF without compromising quality or aesthetics, and where solid wood is required. You will learn which zones require maximum strength, how to properly paint MDF in any RAL color, how to combine MDF elements with wooden rails, how to repair damage, and how long MDF elements will actually last.
Load zones
Not all interior elements are subjected to the same loads. There are zones of intensive impact, where the material must be maximally strong. And there are low-load zones, where MDF performs no worse than solid wood, saving budget.
High-load zone: floor. Floor covering is the most heavily loaded surface. People walk on it, drop objects, move furniture, mop with water. Here, MDF is not suitable at all. Laminate (essentially MDF with a protective layer) can withstand it, but only class 32–33 for apartments, and even then it lasts 10–15 years. For Russian style, where longevity is important, the floor must be wooden (solid boards, parquet) or ceramic tile (wood-effect).
High-load zone: countertops. Kitchen countertops, bathroom countertops — zones of direct contact with water, hot objects, mechanical impacts (cutting, impacts). MDF is inappropriate here. For kitchens — solid wood with quality oil finish, stone, quartz aggregate. For bathrooms — stone, ceramic.
Medium-load zone: baseboards. Baseboards are subjected to impacts during cleaning, contact with water during mopping, abrasion from furniture. But this is not as intense a load as on the floor.— is a horizontal element that frames the room at the bottom of the walls where the wall meets the floor. Skirting boards perform several functions: they hide the technological gap between the wall and floor covering (necessary for thermal expansion), protect the lower part of the wall from mechanical damage, create visual completion, and may conceal wiring.MDF is quite suitable here, especially in dry rooms (living room, bedroom, office).
MDF baseboards are denser (density 700–800 kg/m³, like oak), hold their shape well, and after painting look like wood. Drawbacks: under strong impact, they may crack (oak solid wood yields but doesn’t break), and under prolonged water contact, they may swell (solid wood does too, but less). For hallways, kitchens, bathrooms, solid wood (larch, oak) is better. For other rooms, MDF is a reasonable choice.
Medium-load zone: doors and door casings. Interior doors open and close dozens of times a day, are accidentally hit, or leaned on. MDF doors (with wooden frame inside) are a standard solution, lasting 15–20 years. Door casings (door frames) are subjected to less load — they can be made of MDF without concern.
But for Russian style, where connection to tradition is important, at least the entrance door and door casings in the main zone (living room, main bedroom) should be solid wood or with solid carved elements. Other doors in the apartment (bathroom, storage, children’s room) can be MDF.
Low-load zone: moldings, cornices, ceiling elements. Wall moldings, ceiling cornices, decorative ceiling elements are practically not subjected to mechanical impacts. No one touches them, no one walks on them, no heavy objects are placed on them. Here, MDF is absolutely appropriate.
MDF moldings are lighter than wooden ones (easier to mount on walls and ceilings), more stable (do not warp from air humidity), cheaper. After painting, it is impossible to distinguish MDF from wood — no visible texture (even solid wood’s texture is hidden under paint). For Russian style, where moldings are often painted white, MDF is the ideal choice.
Low-load zone: decorative wall panels. Paneling, decorative frames, wall trim — elements that create aesthetics but do not bear functional load. If painting is planned (white, colored), MDF works excellently here. If visible wood texture is important (transparent oil, lacquer), solid wood is required.
Zone of specific load: furniture facades. Cabinet, chest, bedside table facades open and close daily, are subject to contact (fingerprints, grease). Modern furniture in 90% of cases is made of MDF with various finishes (enamel, film, veneer). For Russian style, facades can be made of MDF for painting or with veneer (imitating solid wood), combined with carved solid wood elements (inlays, cornices).
Selection criteria: solid wood or MDF. Use solid wood where: high mechanical load (impacts, abrasion); constant contact with water; visible wood texture is important; element is exposed and touched (handrails, handles); maximum longevity is desired (30+ years). Use MDF where: low load; planned covering paint; element is high or far away (not touched); budget savings are important; stable shape is required.
Painting and RAL
The main advantage of MDF is its ideal surface for painting. Solid wood has texture, pores, knots, visible even under paint. MDF surface is perfectly uniform and smooth, resulting in even color after painting without fiber visibility. For Russian style, where clean white or colored elements are often used, this is critical.
MDF primer. MDF must be primed before painting. Primer seals pores (MDF is porous, without primer paint absorbs unevenly), creates adhesion (paint bonding to surface), and equalizes absorption. Use water-based acrylic primer (Tikkurila Otex, Dulux Trade, Belinka Base) in 1–2 coats.
Primer is applied with brush, roller, or spray gun. First coat — diluted 10% with water (for better penetration). After 4–6 hours (when dry) — light sanding with fine-grit sandpaper (grit 220–320), dust removal, second coat of primer at full concentration. Another 4–6 hours drying — surface ready for painting.
Important: MDF ends (cutting areas) are especially porous and actively absorb primer. Ends should be primed additionally, up to 3-4 coats, until they no longer absorb.
Enamel for MDF. For final coating, acrylic or alkyd enamels are used. Acrylic enamel (water-based) — odorless, dries quickly (4-6 hours between coats), eco-friendly, does not yellow. Alkyd enamel — more durable, with a slight gloss, but has odor during application, takes longer to dry (12-24 hours), may slightly yellow over time (critical for white).
For Russian style, where white is often used (white moldings, white paneling), acrylic enamel is preferred. It preserves the purity of white for decades. Known brands: Tikkurila Helmi (matte, satin, glossy), Dulux Master Lux Aqua (satin), Caparol Malerit (matte), Alpina Aqua-Lack (satin).
Enamel is applied in 2-3 coats. First coat — can be diluted with 5-10% water (for acrylic) or solvent (for alkyd). Applied with a roller (for large surfaces) or brush (for moldings, corners). After the time indicated on the can (4-6 hours for acrylic, 12-24 hours for alkyd) — light sanding (grit 320-400), dust removal, second coat. After the second coat, assess coverage: if gaps are visible, a third coat is needed. Final coat is not sanded.
RAL Colors. The RAL system — a standardized color palette used in industry, construction, and design. Each color has a code (e.g., RAL 9010 — pure white, RAL 7047 — telegray). When ordering enamel tinted to RAL, you receive the exact color specified, which can be reproduced at any time.
Colors suitable for Russian style are natural, muted RAL tones: whites (RAL 9010, RAL 9016), beiges and creams (RAL 1015, RAL 1013, RAL 1001), grays (RAL 7044, RAL 7047, RAL 7035), greens (RAL 6021 pale green, RAL 6019 pastel green), blues (RAL 5024 pastel blue, RAL 5014 blue-green), terracottas and ochres (RAL 3012 beige-red, RAL 8001 ochre-brown).
Avoid toxic, acidic colors (bright orange, lime green, fuchsia, electric) — they do not match the aesthetics of Russian style, where colors are natural and muted. If you want bright accents, use deep, saturated tones (RAL 3004 purplish-red, RAL 5010 gentian blue, RAL 6029 mint green), but sparingly, on small areas.
Matte or glossy? The gloss level of enamel affects perception. Matte enamel (gloss level 5-10 by standard) — modern, restrained, less fingerprints and scratches visible. Satin (20-30) — golden middle, light noble gloss. Semi-gloss (40-50) and glossy (60-90) — festive, decorative, but all defects, fingerprints are visible.
For Russian style, matte or satin enamel is optimal. Gloss is suitable only for accent elements (decorative moldings, carved appliqués), where light play is important.
Two-color solutions. An interesting effect is achieved by combining two colors in one composition. For example, a panelled wall: molding frames — white (RAL 9010), inside panels — beige (RAL 1015). Or skirting and cornice — dark gray (RAL 7016), wall moldings — white. Color contrast creates graphic effect, emphasizes architecture.
In two-color painting, clear boundaries are important. Use painter’s tape: first color is painted completely, dried, tape is applied to the boundary, second color is painted, tape is removed (while paint is still wet). This results in a clean line without bleed.
Updating the finish. Painted MDF is easy to update. After 5-10 years (when finish fades, scratches appear, color change is desired), surface is cleaned, lightly sanded (grit 220-320 to create roughness for new paint adhesion), covered with 1-2 fresh enamel coats. Color can be changed: white → gray; beige → terracotta. This refreshes the interior without replacing elements.
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Combinations with planks
MDF elements (skirting, moldings, panels) combine well withplank panelsmade of solid wood. This combination gives the best of both worlds: MDF saves budget on large smooth surfaces, solid wood creates live texture and tactile feel where it matters.
Scheme 1: MDF skirting + wooden planks on walls. Classic solution for living room or bedroom in Russian style. Floor skirting 120-150 mm high, MDF, painted white or matching wall color. Above skirting (starting 10-20 cm from floor) to 100-120 cm height — vertical wooden planks 30×40 or 40×50 mm, spaced 10-15 cm apart.
Planks made of pine or birch (more affordable species), covered with natural oil (texture visible) or painted (matching skirting or contrasting). MDF skirting at the bottom creates a smooth base, protects wall from impacts. Wooden planks above create texture, rhythm, live wood feel.
Skirting and plank junction is arranged so: planks start 5-10 cm above top edge of skirting, or planks reach floor and skirting is installed over them (covering lower ends of planks). Second option is more complex to install but more aesthetic.
Scheme 2: MDF moldings + wooden plank filling. Wall divided by MDF moldings into rectangular frames (panels). Moldings painted white or colored. Inside each frame — wooden plank filling (vertical or horizontal), creating texture.
MDF moldings are cheaper than wooden ones, and after painting, they are indistinguishable. Solid wood planks provide live texture. Result is rich composition at reasonable cost. Plank color can be natural (contrast with painted moldings) or also painted (monochrome, but with texture play).
Scheme 3: MDF panels + wooden appliqués. Wall covered with smooth MDF panels (or painted uniformly), decorative wooden appliqués — carved elements, solid wood moldings with visible texture, horizontal or vertical planks.
MDF panels create a smooth background (like canvas), wooden appliqués — relief, details. This is more economical than using solid wood for everything, but looks rich and authentic. Especially effective when appliqués are carved —Carved wooden window casingsoutlets, consoles made of solid wood on smooth MDF background.
Scheme 4: MDF cornices + wooden planks on ceiling. Ceiling cornices (moldings framing wall-ceiling junction) made of MDF, painted white. On ceiling — wooden planks (decorative beams or simple planks creating rhythm), covered with oil preserving wood texture.
MDF cornices are lightweight, easy to mount on walls and ceiling. Wooden planks on ceiling create coziness, reduce visual height (relevant for rooms with ceilings 3+ meters), associate with traditional house beam ceilings. Combination is practical and aesthetic.
Scheme 5: MDF doors + wooden door casings. Interior doors made of MDF (with paneling, imitating classic doors), painted white or colored. Door casings (door frames) made of solid wood, covered with oil or lacquer, visible texture, possibly carved.
MDF doors are functional, affordable, last 15-20 years. Solid wood casings create accent, emphasize importance of door opening, add elegance. This combination visually richer than fully MDF doors with MDF casings, but cheaper than fully solid wood solution.
Combination principles. Use MDF for large smooth surfaces that will be painted with covering paint (panels, skirting over 100 mm high, wide moldings, ceiling cornices). Use solid wood for elements where texture, tactility, durability matter (planks on visible areas, carved elements, railings, handles, elements touched).
Color combination: if MDF is painted, solid wood can be natural (contrast between painted and natural) or also painted, but in another color (color play). Avoid situations where painted MDF is next to painted solid wood, and colors slightly mismatch — this looks like a defect. Either exact color match, or clear contrast.
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Repair Nodes
MDF is less durable than solid wood. It may crack, dent, or chip under strong impact. However, most damage is repairable — an element can be restored without full replacement. We will examine typical damages and repair methods.
Shallow scratches (up to 0.5 mm deep, not reaching MDF, only in paint layer) are repaired by touch-up. The scratch area is cleaned, degreased, and painted with the same color (from leftover original paint or matched to the same RAL) using a fine brush. After drying, it is lightly sanded with fine sandpaper (grit 400-600) to level the surface.
Deep scratches (reaching MDF) require filling. The scratch is filled with acrylic putty (automotive finish or wood-grade), sanded to level with the surface (grit 220, then 320), primed, and painted to match. After painting, the scratch is no longer visible.
For deep dents (over 5 mm), it is better to use two-component polyester putty (automotive-grade) — it is harder and has less shrinkage than acrylic. Mix according to instructions, apply quickly (mixture life 5-10 minutes), hardens in 20-30 minutes, and can be sanded.
Chips — this is a piece of MDF breaking off with sharp edges. Chips most often occur at the corners of baseboards, moldings, and door casings. If the broken piece is retained, it can be reattached using carpenter’s PVA glue or epoxy glue (stronger). The glued area is clamped or pressed with weight for 24 hours. After drying, the joint is filled (micro-gaps are filled), sanded, and painted.
If the broken piece is lost, the chip is filled with putty. For large chips (over 10×10 mm), it is better to reinforce the putty: a piece of fiberglass cloth or muslin is embedded into fresh putty, then covered with another layer of putty. After hardening, additional putty layers form the missing area, followed by sanding and painting.
Cracks — MDF can crack from impact or improper installation (too rigid mounting without compensating for thermal expansion). The crack is widened by 1-2 mm (to allow deeper putty penetration), cleaned of dust, and filled with flexible acrylic putty or sealant. After drying, it is sanded, primed, and painted.
If the crack is through (penetrating the entire thickness of the element), an reinforcing patch is applied from the back (a strip of fiberglass cloth on epoxy glue or a piece of plywood on PVA). This prevents the crack from spreading. From the front, the crack is filled and painted.
Swelling from water — if MDF has been in prolonged contact with water (leak, flooding), it may swell, increase in volume, and deform. If the swollen MDF has not completely disintegrated, it can be attempted to restore: dry (natural drying, do not heat!), after drying it will partially return to its original size (but not fully). Then the surface is sanded (removing swollen fibers), primed in multiple layers (to seal pores), and painted.
But if swelling is severe (over 20% in thickness), it is better to replace the element. MDF that has suffered serious swelling loses strength and may deform again under increased humidity.
Replacing the damaged section — if the damage is localized (e.g., corner chip on baseboard, 20-30 cm crack on molding), only the damaged section can be replaced, not the entire element. The damaged section is cut out (straight or 45° bevel), a new MDF piece of the same profile is inserted, joined (with glue + screws or dowels), filled, sanded, and the entire element repainted.
Repainting the entire element (not just the new section) is important for color uniformity. Old paint may have faded or changed tone over the years. If only the new section is painted, the difference will be visible. Repainting makes the element visually seamless.
Prevention of damage — most damage can be prevented: install MDF elements in low-load zones; use quality fasteners (countersunk screws, flush-mounted); avoid installing near moisture sources; cover with quality enamel in 2-3 layers (protection against water and mechanical damage); install protective corner guards (in areas frequently touched).
Prevention of damage. Most damage can be prevented: install MDF elements in low-load zones; use quality fasteners (countersunk screws driven flush); do not install near moisture sources; cover with quality enamel in 2-3 layers (protection against water and mechanical damage); install protective corner caps (in areas where they are frequently touched).
Service Life
The main question when choosing between MDF and solid wood — how long the material will last. Solid wood (oak, larch) can last 50-100 years or more, becoming more noble over time. But how long will MDF last?
MDF in ideal conditions — if an MDF element is installed in a dry room (living room, bedroom, office), properly primed and painted with quality enamel in 2-3 layers, and not subjected to intense mechanical stress, it will last 20-30 years without losing functionality. Baseboards, moldings, decorative panels made of MDF will not deform or break during this time, maintaining their appearance (provided repainting every 7-10 years).
This is comparable to the interval between major apartment renovations (typically 15-25 years). That is, MDF elements will last until the next renovation, when style may change, and they will still need to be replaced.
MDF in humid conditions — if MDF is installed in a humid room (kitchen, bathroom, entryway with wet mopping), its service life is reduced to 10-15 years. MDF is hygroscopic, absorbing moisture from the air, swelling slightly (by fractions of a percent, but this accumulates), and paint begins to peel. After 10-15 years, elements lose their appearance and require replacement.
Therefore, for humid rooms, it is better to use moisture-resistant MDF (marked MDF-HLS, containing more resin, denser) or solid wood from moisture-resistant species (larch, oak).
MDF under load — if an MDF element is subjected to regular mechanical stress (e.g., baseboard in entryway, frequently hit by shoes or bags), its service life is 10-15 years. Gradually, chips, dents, and cracks accumulate. These can be repaired, but after 10-15 years, the number of damages becomes so significant that it is simpler to replace the element.
For high-load zones (entryway, kitchen), it is better to install solid wood — it is more expensive, but lasts 2-3 times longer, which is ultimately more economical (no replacement needed after 10-15 years).
MDF with surface renewal — if MDF elements are repainted every 7-10 years (cleaned, lightly sanded, repainted), their service life is extended. Fresh paint protects MDF from moisture, mechanical damage, and refreshes its appearance. With regular renewal, MDF can last 30-40 years.
But here arises the question of labor cost: is it worth repainting baseboards and moldings every 7-10 years, or is it simpler to install solid wood, which requires less attention? It depends on budget, priorities, and desire to maintain updates.
Comparison with solid wood — solid wood (oak, ash, larch) with proper finishing and installation lasts 50-100 years. An oak baseboard installed during house construction may outlast several generations of residents, multiple floor coverings, and interior style changes. An MDF baseboard under the same conditions will last 20-30 years, then require replacement.
Oak baseboard cost — 800-1200 rubles/meter, MDF — 200-400 rubles/meter (3-4 times cheaper). But considering service life: oak 50 years, MDF 25 years (with replacement once), the cost of MDF over 50 years: 200 rubles × 2 = 400 rubles/meter + labor for replacement. Oak: 800 rubles/meter once. The difference narrows.
MDF and longevity ecology — from an ecological standpoint, a material lasting 100 years is more eco-friendly than one lasting 25 years. Solid wood is a renewable resource — trees grew for decades, absorbing CO₂. If made into a baseboard lasting 100 years, carbon remains bound in the material for a century. An MDF baseboard lasts 25 years, then is discarded (mostly to landfill, rarely recycled), releasing carbon back into the atmosphere. Over 100 years, 4 MDF baseboards are needed versus 1 wooden one.
For those who prioritize ecological friendliness and material longevity — the argument favors solid wood. But if MDF is made from wood processing waste (which is often the case), it recycles material that would otherwise be burned or buried — which also has ecological merit.
MDF and ecological longevity — from an ecological standpoint, a material lasting 100 years is more eco-friendly than one lasting 25 years. Solid wood is a renewable resource — trees grew for decades, absorbing CO₂. If made into a baseboard lasting 100 years, carbon remains bound in the material for a century. An MDF baseboard lasts 25 years, then is discarded (mostly to landfill, rarely recycled), releasing carbon back into the atmosphere. Over 100 years, 4 MDF baseboards are needed versus 1 wooden one.
Conclusion: Reasonable Balance
Economical Russian style is not about cheapness, but about reasonableness. Not cutting corners everywhere, but investing where it is critical, and optimizing where possible without compromising quality. MDF and solid wood are not opposed to each other, but complement: each works where its properties are most suitable.
decor in Russian styleIt’s about material honesty, correct proportions, connection to tradition. These qualities do not depend on whether the painted white molding is made of oak or MDF. The molding profile, height, installation location, and how it works within the composition are more important.
Use MDF where it is not visible (painted elements on ceilings, high on walls), where the load is low, where cost-saving is important. Use solid wood where it is visible (elements with visible texture), where it is touched, where the load is high, where durability is important. Combine them — and you get an interior that is beautiful, practical, and affordable.
STAVROS produces elements for Russian style from solid wood and MDF. Skirting boards, moldings, cornices, decorative panels, carved elements. Solid wood — oak, beech, larch, pine, birch. MDF — class E1 (eco-friendly), density 750-800 kg/m³ (strong), primed for painting or with factory enamel.
We manufacture to custom sizes, can replicate any profile (if you have an old skirting board to extend or a molding discontinued). We paint in any RAL color at the factory (quality cabinet painting, more even and durable than hand-painted).
Delivery across Russia. For large orders (apartment, house) — free material quantity calculation based on room plans, installation consultation. 23 years on the market, tens of thousands of clients, from budget solutions to premium projects.
Delivery across Russia. For large orders (apartment, house) — free material quantity calculation based on room plans, installation consultation. 23 years on the market, tens of thousands of clients, from budget solutions to premium projects.
When contacting STAVROS, you get a choice: you can create a fully wooden interior (if budget allows) or wisely combine MDF and solid wood (if cost-saving is important). We will help you find the balance between quality, aesthetics, and price that suits you exactly.
Frequently asked questions
What is the main difference between MDF and solid wood?
Can MDF skirting boards be used in the bathroom or kitchen?
Can MDF skirting be used in the bathroom or kitchen?
Yes, but not recommended. Ordinary MDF swells and loses strength in humid conditions. If used, choose moisture-resistant MDF (HLS marking) and cover with water-resistant enamel in 3 layers. For bathrooms and kitchens, better options are larch or oak — they withstand humidity without problems.
How to distinguish MDF from solid wood after painting?
Visually (if fully covered with topcoat paint) — practically impossible. But it can be detected: by weight (MDF is lighter than oak but heavier than pine), by sound when tapped (MDF produces a dull sound, solid wood a resonant one), by the end grain (MDF shows a uniform pressed structure, solid wood reveals fibers and growth rings).
How much does it cost to finish a 18 m² room with MDF skirting boards and moldings?
Room perimeter for 18 m² is approximately 17 m. MDF 120 mm skirting (paintable) — 250 rub/m × 17 m = 4250 rub. MDF 80 mm ceiling cornice — 200 rub/m × 17 m = 3400 rub. Moldings for panel walls — 8000 rub. Painting (primer, enamel, labor) — 15000 rub. Total: 30000–35000 rub. The same elements in solid oak — 80000–100000 rub.
Do you need to prime MDF before painting?
Essential! Without primer, paint will absorb unevenly, resulting in a mottled color and excessive paint consumption. Primer seals MDF pores, creates adhesion, and equalizes absorption. Use acrylic primer in 1–2 layers. Especially important to thoroughly prime edges (most porous) — 2–3 layers of primer.
Can MDF elements be repainted in another color?
Yes, easily. Surface can be cleaned, lightly sanded (grit 220–320), and covered with 1–2 layers of new enamel. You can completely change the color: from white to gray, from beige to blue. This refreshes the interior without replacing elements. The key is to properly prepare the surface (degrease, create texture for adhesion).
What adhesive to use for repairing scratches on MDF?
For gluing detached pieces — carpentry PVA class D3 (moisture-resistant) or epoxy glue (strongest, but takes longer to harden). For filling chips — acrylic wood putty or automotive finishing putty. For large chips — two-component polyester putty reinforced with fiberglass cloth.
Is MDF harmful to health due to formaldehyde?
Modern MDF class E1 (European standard) emits formaldehyde at no more than 0.124 mg/m³, which is safe for health (lower than many natural materials). MDF class E0 (premium) emits even less, 0.05 mg/m³. After painting with enamel, emission is practically zero (paint seals pores). For residential spaces, use only MDF E1 or E0 with certificates.
Which is cheaper over 10 years of use — MDF or solid wood?
Depends on the zone. For dry rooms with low load (living room, bedroom): MDF is cheaper — 250 rub/m skirting, lasts 20–30 years without replacement. Solid wood — 800 rub/m, lasts 50+ years. Over 10 years, neither requires replacement; MDF is more economical. For humid zones and high load (kitchen, hallway): MDF — 250 rub/m, replacement every 10–15 years (another 250 rub + labor). Solid wood — 800 rub/m, lasts 50 years. Over 10 years, costs are comparable, but solid wood is more convenient (no replacement needed).
Can you carve MDF?
Yes, but more complex than on solid wood. MDF is uniform, cuts cleanly, but small carved details are brittle and may break. For carving on MDF, use CNC milling (precise and repeatable). Manual carving (as on solid wood) on MDF is practically not done. For Russian style, where traditional carving is important, carved elements are made from solid wood, while smooth elements (moldings, skirting) can be made from MDF.
