Restoration of polyurethane moldings: repair of chips and damages

A perfect interior is a myth. Life leaves marks. A ladder bump when changing a light bulb, careless furniture movement during rearrangement, excessive force during installation —repair of polyurethane moldingsbecomes relevant not after decades of use, but sometimes just months after installation. A chip on a cornice corner, a crack in a rosette, a delaminated molding section — damages destroy visual integrity, drawing attention to the defect instead of the beauty of the decor. Complete element replacement seems like the only solution, but is often excessive.Restoration of polyurethane moldings— the art of returning damaged elements to their original appearance, saving time and money while preserving already installed decor.

Polyurethane is stronger than plaster, is not afraid of moisture, and does not crack from temperature fluctuations. But absolute strength does not exist. Mechanical impacts are the main cause of damage.How to repair polyurethane moldingwithout resorting to restorers' services, without dismantling elements, without undertaking major repairs? The technology is accessible, materials are sold in any hardware store, tools are minimal. But an understanding of damage types, selection of suitable compounds, and precision in execution are required. Improper repair is more noticeable than the original damage—a lump of putty, mismatched color, rough sanding. A professional approach makesrepairing chips on moldinginvisible—even a close look cannot detect traces of intervention.

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Damage diagnosis: what exactly broke

Before starting work, it is necessary to accurately determine the type and scale of the damage. The choice of restoration method, materials, and the feasibility of DIY restoration depend on the diagnosis.

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Surface scratches and abrasions

The lightest type of damage—scratches up to half a millimeter deep that do not disrupt the relief of the ornament. They occur from friction (brushed by a ladder, rubbed with a cloth while washing walls), light impacts from objects with sharp edges. Scratches usually do not compromise the material's integrity, only removing the paint layer, exposing the white primer of the polyurethane.

Diagnosis: run your finger over the scratch. If you don't feel a depression, only roughness—the damage is superficial. Examine under side lighting (shine a flashlight along the surface)—deep scratches cast a shadow, superficial ones are barely visible.

Restoration: sanding with fine-grit sandpaper (grit 220-320) to smooth the edges, priming, touch-up painting to match the surrounding surface. Work time—ten to twenty minutes per scratch, perfect result.

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Chips: loss of material fragments

A chip is the mechanical separation of part of an element. Impact from a heavy object, falling decor during installation, careless transportation—causes. Chips are classified by size and depth.

Small chips—diameter up to ten millimeters, depth up to three millimeters. Common locations—protruding corners of cornices, edges of rosettes, thin elements of ornament (leaves, scrolls). The material breaks off in a piece, exposing a rough surface. If the broken-off fragment is preserved—it is possible to glue it back (ideal option). If lost—filling with putty.

Medium chips—diameter ten to thirty millimeters, depth three to ten millimeters. They damage not only the surface but also the relief of the ornament. Restoration requires not just filling but sculpting the lost relief—recreating the shape of a leaf, scroll, modillion. Complexity depends on the ornament's detail.

Large chips—diameter over thirty millimeters, depth over ten. They compromise the structural integrity of the element. A cornice corner broken off by five centimeters, part of a pilaster capital lost, a piece of rosette fell out. Restoration is complex—requires either gluing the broken piece (if preserved), or making the missing fragment from polyurethane mass or epoxy resin with filler, or replacing the entire element.

Cracks: integrity violation without material loss

A crack is a linear rupture of the material without separation of parts. It arises from stress (building settlement, thermal deformation), improper installation (over-tightened screw), impact (did not chip but cracked).

Hairline cracks—width up to half a millimeter, any length. Visible only up close or under certain lighting. Do not threaten the structure but are aesthetically noticeable—a thin dark line on a white surface. Simple restoration—filling with liquid putty or sealant, sanding, painting.

Medium cracks—width half to two millimeters, length from several centimeters to a meter. They run through the body of the element or along joints (if a crack is along the joint of two cornice pieces—the problem is in installation, glue is not holding). Filled with elastic putty or sealant. If the crack is spreading (edges separated by one to two millimeters)—clamping the element before filling is required.

Wide spreading cracks—width over two millimeters, edges separated by three to five millimeters, significant length. Indicate serious problems—the element is experiencing loads exceeding its strength. Causes: building settlement (cracks in walls transfer to decor), improper installation (element fixed under tension), defect of the element itself (manufacturing flaw, internal material stresses). Simply filling the crack will not solve the problem—it will reopen over time. It is necessary to eliminate the cause (strengthen the structure, reinstall the element, replace the defective one), then restore.

Detachments: loss of contact with the base

Detachment—a situation where molding pulls away from the wall or ceiling but has not yet fallen. The element sags, a gap appears between the decor and the base. Causes: insufficient glue during installation, poor surface preparation (dust, grease hindered adhesion), moisture (glue got wet, lost strength), vibrations (in houses near roads, railways, subways).

Local detachment—a small area detached (five to twenty centimeters in length) on one element. The rest holds. Restoration: inject glue into the gap, press, fix until set.

Extensive detachment—a long area detached (a meter or more) or the entire element hangs by one edge. High risk of complete detachment and falling. Urgent fixation required: inject glue along the entire length of the gap, press, fix with props, tapes until fully set (24 hours). If detachment occurred due to improper installation or defective surface—after glue sets, additional mechanical fastening is recommended (screws through decor into the wall, countersunk and puttied).

Restorer's toolkit: what you'll need

ProfessionalRestoration of polyurethane moldingsdoes not require complex equipment. A basic set is accessible, cost within one to two thousand rubles.

Materials for filling and gluing

Acrylic putty for interior work—the main material for filling chips, cracks, leveling surfaces. Choose fine-grained finishing putty in white. Advantages of acrylic: does not shrink (or minimal—five percent), sands easily, paints well. Packaged in buckets from half to five kilograms. For home restoration, a one-kilogram bucket is sufficient.

Polyurethane glue for molding—used for gluing broken fragments back, fixing detached elements. Specialized glue for polyurethane provides chemical bonding (glue molecules penetrate the polyurethane structure, creating a monolithic connection). Packaging—tubes of three hundred to four hundred milliliters for a caulking gun or jars for application with a spatula. One tube is enough for ten to fifteen small glues or one to two extensive detachments fixations.

Acrylic sealant, white - an alternative to putty for filling cracks. Advantages: elasticity (the crack can move slightly - the sealant won't crack, putty might), ease of application (squeezed from a tube, doesn't require a spatula). Disadvantages: harder to sand (rubbery structure clogs sandpaper), may shrink with a thick layer. Used for cracks wider than a millimeter where elasticity is needed.

Epoxy resin with filler (chalk, talc, microspheres) - for restoring large chips by recreating the shape. Epoxy is strong after curing, doesn't shrink, can be sanded and painted. Cons: complexity of work (need to mix resin and hardener in exact proportion, quickly shape the missing fragment before polymerization begins), toxicity (work with gloves and a respirator). For complex restorations where putty is insufficient.

Tools for application and processing

Putty knives of various widths — three to five centimeters for spot work, ten to fifteen for extended areas. Metal or plastic. Plastic ones are softer — they don't scratch polyurethane but smooth less effectively. Metal ones are stiffer — they level better but require careful handling.

Sandpaper with grit 120 (coarse, for initial processing of large putty drips), 220 (medium, for leveling), 320-400 (fine, for final sanding before painting). Better to use a sanding sponge - easier to hold, conforms to the shape of the relief. Waterproof sandpaper allows wet sanding - less dust, smoother surface.

Brushes - narrow (five to ten millimeters) for spot touch-up of restored areas, medium (twenty to thirty millimeters) for painting an element entirely. Synthetic bristles for acrylic paints.

Syringe without a needle or a pastry syringe with a wide nozzle - for injecting glue into narrow gaps when fixing delaminations, filling thin cracks with liquid putty.

Painter's tape - for protecting surrounding surfaces (walls, ceiling) from getting putty, paint. For fixing delaminated elements in a pressed position until the glue sets.

Chisel, knife, scalpel - for cleaning the edges of chips and cracks (removing flaking pieces, creating clear boundaries), forming relief in uncured putty.

Auxiliary materials

Acrylic primer for plastics - applied to puttied areas before painting. Ensures even paint absorption (putty absorbs differently than polyurethane - without primer there will be spots).

Acrylic paint matching the molding color - for touch-up of restored areas. If the molding is white - white matte paint for ceilings and walls. If colored - color matching. For exact color match, take a small piece of molding (from an inconspicuous place - inner corner, area behind furniture), bring it to the store - they will match the color using computer tinting.

Acetone or white spirit - for degreasing surfaces before gluing, cleaning tools from glue and paint.

Gloves, respirator, safety glasses - when working with epoxy resins, solvents, sanding (dust).

Technologyof molding restoration: step-by-step instructions

Different types of damage require different approaches. Let's examine each case in detail.

Filling small chips with putty

Small chip (up to ten millimeters) - the most common damage, simple to repair.

Step 1. Cleaning. Remove dust, dirt from the chip area with a soft brush or dry cloth. If the chip is greasy (touched by hands) - wipe with acetone on a cotton pad, let it evaporate.

Step 2. Cleaning the edges. Inspect the edges of the chip. Often, micro-flakes of material hang on the edge, which will soon fall off on their own. Remove them with a knife - run the blade along the chip boundary, cut off the flaking parts. The edges should be strong and clear.

Step 3. Priming. Apply primer with a thin brush to the surface of the chip. The primer will enhance putty adhesion. Let it dry (fifteen to thirty minutes).

Step 4. Filling with putty. With a narrow spatula (three to five centimeters), take a little putty, fill the chip, pressing with the spatula. Fill with a slight excess (a mound half a millimeter to a millimeter above the surrounding surface level) - the putty will shrink slightly when drying, the mound will level out. If the chip is deep (more than three millimeters), fill in two layers: first fill two-thirds of the depth, let dry (two to four hours), second - up to the surface level.

Step 5. Forming the relief. If the chip is on a smooth area - simply level it flush with the spatula. If the chip damaged the relief (edge of a leaf, curl) - form the relief in the uncured putty with the tip of a knife, chisel, toothpick. Compare with an undamaged similar element nearby, repeat the shape. Work quickly - acrylic putty begins to set in fifteen to twenty minutes.

Step 6. Drying. Leave until completely dry. Acrylic putty in a two to three millimeter layer dries in four to six hours. Don't rush - sanding wet putty smears it, rather than removing it.

Step 7. Sanding. Sand the puttied area with 220 grit sandpaper, then 320. The goal is to level the patch with the surrounding surface, remove the boundary, smooth out irregularities. Sand carefully, without pressing hard - you can remove the paint layer from the surrounding polyurethane, expanding the damage zone. For relief areas, use a sanding sponge - it conforms to the shape, stiff sandpaper breaks details.

Step 8. Priming before painting. Apply primer with a brush to the sanded area. The primer evens out absorption - putty absorbs paint differently than polyurethane. Without primer, the puttied spot will be matte on a glossy background or vice versa.

Step 9. Painting. Touch up the area with paint matching the molding color using a thin brush. Apply paint in a thin layer, blending at the edges (the boundary of the touched-up area should be invisible). Two to three thin layers with intermediate drying of one to two hours give a better result than one thick one. If the color doesn't quite match - wait for complete drying (a day), lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper, apply another layer - the color can be adjusted by layering.

Gluing back broken-off fragments

If the broken-off piece is preserved, hasn't crumbled - gluing it back gives a perfect result. Shape, texture, color match absolutely.

Step 1. Fitting. Place the broken fragment against the chipped area. Check if the shape matches (sometimes edges get damaged during chipping, and the piece no longer fits precisely). If it doesn't fit — adjust it: trim the edges with a knife, sand with sandpaper until they match.

Step 2. Cleaning and degreasing. Wipe both surfaces (the chip on the element and the back side of the broken piece) with acetone on a cotton pad. Remove dust, grease, and old adhesive residue (if this is a re-gluing — the piece has come off before).

Step 3. Applying adhesive. Apply polyurethane adhesive thinly to both surfaces. A layer of one to two millimeters is sufficient for a strong bond. Excess adhesive will squeeze out, stain the surrounding surface, and require cleaning.

Step 4. Joining and pressing. Place the fragment against the chipped area, align it precisely, and press. Hold it pressed for one to two minutes (polyurethane adhesive sets quickly — initial fixation in a minute, full strength in twelve to twenty-four hours). Immediately wipe off excess adhesive squeezed out along the edges with a damp cloth (after hardening, it's difficult to remove — you'll have to cut it off with a knife and sand).

Step 5. Fixing until full setting. If the fragment is small (a finger, easy to hold), hand pressure is sufficient. If it's large or inconveniently located (on the ceiling, in a corner) — secure it with painter's tape (wrap it over the glued area), place a brace (if on a wall — prop it from below with a board to the floor), use a clamp (if the element is removable). Leave it for a day.

Step 6. Removing fixators, checking. After a day, remove the tape, take away the braces. Check the strength — gently wiggle the glued fragment with your finger. If it holds — the gluing succeeded. If you feel movement — the adhesive didn't set or too little was applied. Repeat the procedure.

Step 7. Sealing the gap (if present). After gluing, a thin gap (fractions of a millimeter) may remain along the joint line — the chipped edges didn't match perfectly. Fill the gap with acrylic sealant: squeeze a thin strip along the gap, smooth it with a wet finger, wipe off excess. After drying (four hours), the gap is unnoticeable.

Step 8. Touching up (if needed). If a strip is visible along the gluing line (the adhesive changed the surface color, the sealant is lighter than the paint) — touch up with a fine brush. Two thin layers of paint will hide the repair marks.

Restoring Delaminated Sections

Delamination — the element sags, a gap between the decor and the wall/ceiling is visible, but the element still holds by one edge.

Step 1. Assessing the scale. Determine how much length has delaminated. If five to twenty centimeters — the work is simple. If a meter or more — an assistant will be needed (it's impossible for one person to hold and press a long element).

Step 2. Cleaning the gap. Dust, cobwebs, and possibly old adhesive residue (if the element was gradually coming off, the adhesive crumbled) have gotten into the gap between the element and the wall. Clean it: bend the element back more (carefully, don't break it), remove debris from the gap with a brush or vacuum. Wipe the wall surface in the gap with a damp cloth, let it dry.

Step 3. Introducing adhesive. Squeeze adhesive into the gap. For narrow gaps (two to five millimeters), a syringe is convenient — draw adhesive from the tube into the syringe, insert the nozzle into the gap, and squeeze evenly along the entire delaminated length. For wide gaps (more than five millimeters), apply adhesive with a spatula to the wall in the gap or to the back side of the element. Amount of adhesive — a continuous strip along the entire delaminated length, two to three millimeters thick (the adhesive will compress when the element is pressed).

Step 4. Pressing the element. Press the delaminated section against the wall, with force (the adhesive should distribute and fill the gap). Excess adhesive will squeeze out along the edges — immediately wipe it off with a damp cloth.

Step 5. Fixation. The element needs to be held pressed for twelve to twenty-four hours. Fixation options:

• Painter's tape — strips of tape every twenty to thirty centimeters, stuck from the element to the wall/ceiling, pressing it. For heavy elements, tape may not hold — use reinforced tape or combine with props.

• Props — boards, blocks, braces from the floor to the element (for ceiling cornices) or from the opposite wall (for wall moldings). The prop should press but not deform the element.

• Temporary screws — screws are driven through the element into the wall (two to three per meter of length), pressing the decor. After the adhesive sets, the screws are removed, and the holes are filled with putty. A radical method, but reliable for heavy elements.

Step 6. Removing fixation, checking. After a day, remove the tape, props, unscrew the screws (if used). Check the strength — light hand pressure, the element should not move. If it holds — restoration is complete. Fill the screw holes with putty, sand, and touch up.

Sealing Cracks with Elastic Sealant

A crack with a width from half to two millimeters is filled with sealant that remains elastic — if the crack moves slightly (thermal deformations, vibrations), the sealant won't crack.

Step 1. Widening the crack (optional). If the crack is hairline (less than half a millimeter), sealant won't penetrate it. Widen it: run the tip of a knife along the crack, deepening and widening it to a millimeter. Widening creates a cavity for the sealant, increases the contact area, and strengthens the seal.

Step 2. Cleaning. Remove dust from the crack with a vacuum or brush. Wipe the edges with a damp cloth, let it dry.

Step 3. Filling with sealant. Insert a tube of acrylic sealant into a caulking gun, cut the tube nozzle at a forty-five-degree angle (hole diameter one to two millimeters). Guide the nozzle along the crack, squeezing out sealant. The sealant should fill the crack with a slight excess (a light bead above the surface).

Step 4. Smoothing. Wet your finger with water (acrylic sealant is water-based, water is a lubricant for smoothing), run your finger along the bead of sealant, pressing and smoothing. The sealant will fill the crack completely, excess will be removed by your finger, and the surface will be smoothed. Wipe residue on your finger and along the crack edges with a damp cloth.

Step 5. Drying. Acrylic sealant dries in four to eight hours (depends on layer thickness, air humidity). Full polymerization (achieving elasticity and strength) — twenty-four hours.

Step 6. Light sanding. If after drying the sealant protrudes above the surface, lightly sand with fine sandpaper (320-400). Don't overdo it — sealant is rubbery, sands poorly, and sandpaper clogs. The goal is to remove only obvious protrusions.

Step 7. Painting. Sealant is usually white, but the shade may differ from the paint of the molding. Touch up with a fine brush — two layers with intermediate drying of an hour.

When Restoration Is Inadvisable: Replacement Criteria

Not all damage can be repaired. Sometimes it's easier, faster, and cheaper to replace the entire element.

Multiple damages on a single element

If a cornice has five chips, three cracks, and two delaminations — restoring each defect will take several hours of work. Removing the cornice and installing a new one — two hours. Replacement is more rational.

Damages in visible areas with high aesthetic requirements

A ceiling rosette under a chandelier in the center of the living room — it is constantly looked at, up close (when changing a light bulb), the relief is illuminated from below (any defect casts a shadow, is noticeable). Even a perfectly executed restoration may be visible — the boundary of the filler, a slight difference in texture. On a rosette in a storage room, this is acceptable. On a formal rosette — replacement is preferable.

Structural damages

A cornice cracked across its entire width, the crack is widening, the element is sagging — structural integrity is lost. Restoration will require complex reinforcement (gluing a metal rod into the crack), tightening, and prolonged fixation. The result is not guaranteed — it may crack again over time. Replacement is more reliable.

Damages due to improper installation

An element delaminates repeatedly (glued, fell off again after a month) — the cause is not the adhesive, but the base. The wall is crumbling, plaster is coming off, the surface is greasy. It is necessary to eliminate the cause (redo the wall), then reinstall the element. The old element may deform after multiple detachments — it is better to replace it with a new one.

Economic assessment

The cost of a simple cornice is three to seven hundred rubles per meter. Restoration (materials plus time) — two to five hundred rubles. The difference is small. A complex ornamental cornice — two to four thousand per meter. Restoration — the same two to five hundred (materials are not more expensive). Here, restoration is several times more cost-effective. Decide based on specific figures.

Damage prevention: how to avoid repair

The best restoration is the one that was not needed. Prevention is easier than repair.

Proper installation

High-quality surface preparation (cleaning, priming), sufficient adhesive amount, proper fixation until setting — the foundation of durability. Saving on adhesive (thin layer, gaps) results in delaminations after one to two years.

Protection during repair work

If you are starting a renovation, rearranging furniture, painting walls — protect the moldings. Cover with painter's tape, cover with film. A stepladder being moved around the room is a common cause of chips on cornices.

Care in operation

Washing walls, cleaning moldings — use soft materials (sponge, cloth), without abrasives, without strong pressure. A hard brush scratches the paint. Strong pressure on a thin element (leaf, curl) can break it.

Climate control

Sharp temperature and humidity fluctuations create stress in the material and adhesive. Maintain a stable climate — temperature eighteen to twenty-five degrees, humidity forty to sixty percent. Avoid leaks (from the roof, from upstairs neighbors) — water softens the adhesive.

Frequently asked questions

Can gypsum filler be used to repair polyurethane moldings?

Yes, but not optimally. Gypsum filler is hard but brittle — a repaired chip may chip again with a light impact. Gypsum shrinks (five to ten percent) — after drying, the patch sinks, requiring a second layer. Gypsum absorbs paint differently than polyurethane — stains even after priming. Acrylic filler is better — more elastic, does not shrink, easy to paint.

The chipped piece is lost. Can the shape be restored without it?

Yes, by sculpting. For simple shapes (smooth edge, simple profile) — fill the chip with excess filler, after it begins to set (ten to fifteen minutes) shape it with a spatula, knife, replicating the profile of the undamaged area nearby. For complex ornaments (leaf, curl, mask) — make a silicone cast from a similar undamaged element (apply silicone to it, let it cure, remove the mold), pour epoxy resin or plaster into the mold, obtain a copy of the ornament, glue it onto the chip location.

How much time does it take to restore one chip?

A small chip (up to ten millimeters) without complex relief — forty to sixty minutes of pure work time plus four to six hours of filler drying plus one hour of paint drying. Total — from start to finished result — six to eight hours (can be split into two days: first day — fill, second — sand and paint). A medium chip (ten to thirty millimeters) with relief restoration — one and a half to two hours of work plus drying. A large chip (over thirty) — two to four hours of work plus possibly multiple layer applications with intermediate drying — up to two to three days.

A crack reappeared after repair. Why?

The cause was not eliminated. A crack is a consequence of stress in the material or structure. If the building continues to settle, the crack opens again. If the element is fixed under tension (ends abut the walls, during thermal expansion the material cannot lengthen, it cracks), the crack returns. Solutions: eliminate the cause (wait for the building's settlement to finish, reinstall the element without tension), use elastic sealant instead of rigid filler (sealant compensates for small movements), reinforce the crack (glue a strip of fiberglass with epoxy into the crack — strengthens the area).

Can polyurethane be restored with superglue?

For gluing chipped pieces — yes, superglue (cyanoacrylate) provides a strong bond, sets in seconds. Minuses: the seam is brittle (impact — breaks again), the glue leaves whitish streaks on the surface (evaporations settle around the gluing area), does not fill gaps (if the edges do not match perfectly, a gap remains). Polyurethane adhesive is better — stronger, more elastic, fills small gaps, does not leave streaks. Superglue — for emergency temporary repair, polyurethane — for reliable permanent repair.

Is it necessary to remove the element for restoration or can it be done in place?

Most restorations are done in place — it's more convenient, faster, and eliminates the risk of damage during removal. Removal is necessary if: the damage is on the reverse side (the side against the wall — rare but possible), the element needs a complete repaint (easier to remove, paint evenly on a table from all sides, and reinstall), the element has completely detached (hanging by one screw, about to fall — remove, clean the back side, reinstall with fresh adhesive).

Conclusion: The Value of Preservation

repair of polyurethane moldings— is not just about saving on replacement parts. It's about preserving what already exists, avoiding waste, and minimizing intervention. An interior that has lived through several years carries the traces of that life — not just damage, but also the patina of time, a lived-in feel. Skillful restoration returns aesthetic integrity while preserving history. A chip, perfectly filled and touched up, is invisible to guests, but you know — here was a scratch from a stepladder when changing the chandelier; here a piece fell off when a child threw a ball; here it cracked when the house settled during its first winter. These traces, invisible to others, connect the interior to life, making the space not just beautiful, but alive.

Restoration of polyurethane moldingsis accessible to anyone who can hold a putty knife and a brush. No special skills are required — what's needed is care, patience, and following instructions. Materials are inexpensive, tools are simple, and the result is impressive. A small chip, repaired in an hour, disappears without a trace. A detached cornice, fixed with adhesive, serves for decades more. A crack, filled with sealant, no longer expands. Every successful restoration is a small victory over entropy, a return to order, a restoration of beauty.

The company STAVROS supports owners of polyurethane decor not only by supplying elements but also with expertise in care and restoration. The STAVROS website features detailed guides onrepairing chips on molding, sealing cracks, fixing detachments — with photos of each stage, material lists, and advice on choosing tools. Video tutorials on the STAVROS YouTube channel show the restoration process in real time — how to hold a putty knife, how to shape the relief, how to match paint color for touch-ups.

The STAVROS technical support service provides free consultation on restoration issues. Call, describe the damage (even better — send a photo), and get recommendations: which method to use, what materials to buy, how long the work will take, whether to restore or replace. The consultants are practitioners who have performed hundreds of restorations and know all the nuances of working with polyurethane.

STAVROS repair kits simplify the task. The kit includes: acrylic putty (a 500-gram jar), polyurethane adhesive (a 100-milliliter tube), acrylic sealant (a 100-milliliter tube), a 220-grit sanding sponge, a set of putty knives (three, five, ten centimeters), a painting brush (ten millimeters), primer (one hundred milliliters), and an instruction manual with step-by-step photos. Everything needed to restore five to ten minor damages or two to three medium ones. The kit price is one thousand two hundred rubles (buying materials separately costs one and a half to two thousand).

Professional restoration services are available in Moscow, St. Petersburg, and major cities. STAVROS masters visit the site, assess the damage, perform restoration on-site or remove elements for workshop work (for complex damage). Restoration of a minor chip — four hundred rubles. A medium chip with relief restoration — one to two thousand five hundred. A large chip with sculpting or molding of a lost fragment — three to eight thousand. Fixing a detached section — five hundred rubles per linear meter. Sealing cracks — three hundred rubles per linear meter. Complete repainting of an element with restoration of all damages — from two thousand (a simple two-meter cornice) to fifteen thousand (a complex ornamental rosette with a diameter of one hundred twenty centimeters with multiple chips).

Spare elements in the STAVROS catalog — over two thousand models of cornices, moldings, rosettes, architraves, pilasters. If an element is damaged beyond reasonable restoration — you'll find an exact replacement. For discontinued models (bought ten years ago, no longer in production) — selection of analogues by size and profile or custom manufacturing from a sample (minimum order one element, lead time two to four weeks).

Choosing STAVROS, you get not just materials, but a support system: consultations, instructions, kits, professional services. Every damage to molding ceases to be a problem and becomes a task with a clear solution. From a minor scratch to a major chip — the technologyof molding restorationis proven, accessible, effective. STAVROS doesn't just sell decor, but accompanies it throughout its entire lifecycle — from selection and installation to care and restoration, ensuring decades of flawless interior appearance, where beauty is preserved, damages disappear, and the space remains perfect regardless of the vagaries of time and the accidents of daily life.