Wooden Decorative Elements and Installation of Polyurethane Molding by Yourself: A DIY Home Project

Have you ever stood before a smooth white wall and thought: something is missing? Not color, not furniture — it lacks volume, architecture, that third dimension that turns a plane into space.Wooden decor elementsand polyurethane molding solve this problem, adding relief to walls, completeness to ceilings, and character to furniture. But the question arises: hire professionals or do it yourself? The cost of professional work can equal the cost of materials (and sometimes exceed it), which doubles the project budget. On the other hand,installation guide for polyurethane moldingshows: with the right tools, understanding of technology, and patience, installation is accessible even to a beginner. Two hands, a level, glue, a miter saw — everything you need to transform the interior.

This article is a detailed guide for those who decided to createwooden decor with your own hands, without overpaying professionals. We'll break down each stage: from project planning and material procurement to final painting and wood protection. Learn how to attach carved overlays to walls and furniture, install polyurethane moldings and cornices, correctlycut wooden baseboardsat 45 degrees without gaps and curvature. We'll find out what mistakes beginners make (and how to avoid them), which tools are critical (and which can be replaced with improvised ones), how long it takes to finish a room, and whether the savings are truly worth the effort.

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Planning a DIY project: from idea to shopping list

Any successful project begins not with purchasing materials, but with planning. Chaotic buying of decor without a clear plan leads to unnecessary expenses (bought too much), material shortages (ran short of three meters of molding, had to buy more, the shade slightly differs), and disappointment (elements don't match stylistically).

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Defining style and concept

What interior are you creating? Classic (moldings with volutes and rolls, carved overlays with acanthus, wide cornices), modern (moldings with simple profiles, minimal ornaments, clean lines), Baroque (complex multi-tiered cornices, rosettes with putti, overlays with garlands), Scandinavian (wooden slats in natural shades, minimalist baseboards)? Determine the style before buying — this will narrow the choice and eliminate doubts.

Collect references: photos of interiors you like (Pinterest, Instagram, magazines), save them in a folder. Analyze the details: which moldings are used (width, profile), how they are placed (frames on walls, cornice under the ceiling), which colors (white, natural wood, patina). References are your roadmap, making it easier to navigate than wandering in a sea of options.

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Room measurements: accuracy is the key to savings

Measure the room with a tape measure: wall length, ceiling height, perimeter (for calculating baseboard, cornice). Write it down in a notebook or file. If planning wall frames from moldings — measure the desired frame sizes (e.g., 4 frames sized 1.0×1.5 meters on one wall — need 4×(1.0+1.5+1.0+1.5)=20 meters of molding just for one wall).

Add a 10-15% reserve for cutting, mistakes, damage. If the calculation shows 22 meters of cornice needed, order 25 meters. It's better to have a small surplus (useful for future repairs if an element gets damaged) than to run short and have to buy more (waiting time, delivery).

Draw a room diagram indicating decor placement: where moldings will go (horizontal lines at 90-100 cm from the floor, frames between them and the cornice), where carved overlays will be (at frame corners, in the center), where baseboards will be (along the floor and ceiling perimeter). The diagram visualizes the project, helps calculate the exact number of elements.

Compiling a list of materials and tools

Based on measurements and the diagram, compile a list:

Materials:

• Wall moldings (20 meters, classic profile, width 60 mm)

• Ceiling cornice (25 meters, profile with volute, width 100 mm)

• Corner elements for cornice (4 internal corners)

• Wooden floor skirting board (25 meters, height 80 mm, MDF oak veneer)

• Carved corner overlays (16 pieces, size 100×100 mm)

• Carved ceiling rosette (1 piece, diameter 600 mm)

• Polyurethane adhesive (3 tubes of 310 ml)

• PVA wood glue (500 ml, for wooden elements)

• White acrylic sealant (2 tubes of 310 ml, for sealing joints)

• Acrylic putty (1 kg, for filling nail holes)

• Acrylic primer (1 liter)

• White matte acrylic paint (3 liters, for moldings, cornice, overlays)

• Wood oil (500 ml, for skirting board if not painting)

• Finish nails (100 pieces, length 30-40 mm, for temporary fixation)

• Self-tapping screws (50 pieces, 3.5×40 mm, for skirting board)

• Plastic dowels (50 pieces, 6 mm)

Tools:

• Miter saw (or miter box + handsaw, for angled cutting)

• Tape measure (5 meters)

• Level (60-80 cm, preferably laser)

• Pencil, ruler

• Adhesive gun (for 310 ml tubes)

• Rubber spatula (for smoothing sealant)

• Brushes (width 3-5 cm, for painting)

• Roller (for large areas)

• Screwdriver (or drill with bits)

• Drill bits (6 mm for dowels, 2 mm for pre-drilling wood)

• Hammer (for driving finish nails)

• Sandpaper (grit 180-220, for sanding joints)

• Damp sponge (for removing excess adhesive, sealant)

Tools can be purchased (if planning to use in the future), rented (hardware stores rent miter saws, hammer drills for 500-1000 rubles per day) or borrowed from acquaintances.

Surface preparation: the foundation on which success depends

Beautiful decor on an unprepared surface is a house built on sand. Adhesive doesn't hold on a dusty wall, moldings peel off, joints separate. Surface preparation is a boring stage you want to skip, but it's precisely what determines the durability of the result.

Cleaning walls and ceilings

Remove old wallpaper (if present), wash off whitewash (if the ceiling is whitewashed — wet with water, remove with a putty knife), clean off dust, cobwebs, grease stains (kitchen walls may be greasy — wipe with detergent, rinse with clean water). The surface must be dry, clean, and free of flaking particles.

If the wall is painted with oil-based paint (glossy, does not absorb water) — lightly sand with 80-120 grit sandpaper (create roughness for adhesive adhesion). If the wall is plastered or puttied — cleaning from dust is sufficient.

Primer: the adhesive likes primed surfaces

Apply acrylic primer with a roller or brush to walls and ceilings where moldings, cornices, and overlays will be attached. The primer strengthens the surface (binds dust, loose particles), improves adhesive adhesion (the adhesive does not absorb into the wall but bonds with the primer), and reduces adhesive consumption (primed surfaces absorb less).

Primer dries in 2-4 hours (depending on temperature, humidity). You can prime in the evening and install decor the next day.

Marking: measure twice, cut once

Mark the installation locations of the decor with a pencil and level. For a ceiling cornice: measure down from the ceiling the height of the cornice (e.g., 100 mm), place marks in the corners of the room, connect the marks with a chalk line (stretch the line, pull it back, release — a straight line remains). The cornice will be attached with its top edge to this line.

For wall moldings: measure from the floor the height of the bottom edge of the molding (e.g., 90 cm), place marks, connect with a chalk line. If making frames — mark the perimeter of each frame (vertical and horizontal lines).

A laser level simplifies marking: set it on a tripod, turn on the horizontal line — the laser projects a perfectly straight line around the room's perimeter. Attach the decor along this line.

Installing polyurethane molding: a step-by-step guide for beginners

Polyurethane moldings and cornices are the easiest decor for DIY installation. They are lightweight (no heavy-duty fasteners needed), cut with a regular handsaw, and glued with acrylic adhesive.installation guide for polyurethane moldingcontains all technical details; here I'll give practical tips that will save you from mistakes.

Cutting moldings at an angle: miter saw vs. miter box

The main difficulty when installing moldings is the corners. In room corners (90 degrees), moldings join, each cut at a 45-degree angle (45+45=90). If the angle is cut inaccurately (46 or 44 degrees), the joint ends up with a gap or overlap.

A miter saw is the ideal tool. Set the angle to 45 degrees (scale on the saw), place the molding on the platform (press against the fence), lower the saw, cut. The cut is even, the angle is precise. A miter saw costs 5000-15000 rubles (budget models), can be rented for a day for 500-800 rubles.

A miter box is a plastic or wooden tray with slots for 45 and 90-degree angles. Place the molding in the miter box, insert the handsaw into the 45-degree slot, saw. Cheaper than a saw (miter box costs 300-800 rubles), but requires skill (easy to go off track, get an uneven cut). Suitable for small volumes (1-2 rooms).

Tip: before cutting the main strips, practice on scraps. Cut two pieces of molding at 45 degrees, place them together (simulating a corner) — the joint should be tight, without gaps. If there is a gap — adjust the saw angle, try again.

Applying adhesive: more is not better

Adhesive for polyurethane is a special acrylic adhesive (liquid nails, mounting adhesive), applied with a gun from a 310 ml tube. Do not use regular PVA (poor adhesion to polyurethane), silicone sealant (does not hold weight), superglue (expensive, not for large areas).

Apply adhesive to the back of the molding in a wavy line (snake) along the center. Do not apply a continuous thick layer (excess adhesive will squeeze out when pressed, stain the wall, and need wiping). A line 5-7 mm thick is sufficient. For a 2-meter strip, adhesive consumption is about 1/4 tube (one tube is enough for 8 meters of molding).

If the molding is wide (over 100 mm), apply two lines of adhesive (along the edges of the back surface) — this improves adhesion.

Gluing and fixing: patience while the adhesive sets

Place the molding against the wall along the marking (top edge to the line), press evenly along the entire length. The adhesive does not set instantly — you need to hold it for 1-2 minutes. If released immediately, the molding may peel off under its own weight (especially on vertical sections).

For temporary fixation (until the adhesive fully sets) use finishing nails: drive 2-3 nails through the molding into the wall (spacing 60-80 cm), the nails hold the molding while the adhesive dries. Sink the nail heads with a nail set 2-3 mm into the molding body (later fill with putty, paint over).

Full adhesive drying time is 24 hours. After this, you can remove the nails (if screws were used) or leave them (finishing nails are thin, invisible after puttying).

Sealing joints: sealant works wonders

After installing all strips, inspect the joints (corners, strip connections). There may be micro-gaps between moldings (due to wall unevenness, minor cutting inaccuracies). Fill the gaps with acrylic sealant: squeeze sealant from the tube into the gap, smooth with a wet rubber spatula or finger (wet with water, run along the joint — excess sealant will be removed, the joint will become smooth).

Acrylic sealant can be painted after drying (unlike silicone, which does not hold paint). Dries in 2-4 hours, after which the joints are painted along with the moldings.

Installing wooden decor elements: carved overlays on walls and furniture

Wooden decor elementsare installed differently than polyurethane ones. Wood is heavier (an oak overlay measuring 100×100 mm weighs 150-200 grams vs. 30-40 grams for polyurethane), requiring more reliable fixation.

Fastening with wood glue: reliability tested for centuries

PVA wood glue (water-resistant D3 or D4) is a classic for wood-to-wood applications (overlay on a wooden door, furniture) and wood-to-plaster applications (overlay on a wall). Apply the glue in a thin, even layer to the back of the overlay (with a brush or by squeezing from the bottle), press it against the surface, and hold for 30-60 seconds. The glue sets in 15-20 minutes (holds without additional fastening) and fully dries in 24 hours.

If the overlay is large (size over 150×150 mm, weight over 300 grams), additionally secure it with finishing nails: drive 2-4 nails through the overlay into the base at an angle (the nail enters the overlay, goes through, and enters the wall or door). Sink the nail heads and fill with putty.

Fastening with screws: when maximum reliability is needed

For heavy carved elements (rosettes over 400 mm in diameter, large cartouches, vertical columns) use screws. Pre-drill holes in the overlay with a 3 mm drill bit (slightly smaller than the screw diameter) to prevent the wood from splitting when screwing. If attaching to a wall, drill the wall with a 6 mm bit and insert wall plugs. Apply glue to the overlay, press it against the wall, and screw through the overlay into the plugs. Sink the screw heads by 3-4 mm (pre-drill a countersink hole with a larger diameter bit to a depth of 3-4 mm, creating a recess for the head). Fill the recesses with wood putty, sand, and paint or stain to match the wood color.

Combining wood and polyurethane: harmony of materials

Wooden and polyurethane elements can be combined in one interior, gaining the advantages of both: the naturalness of wood in visible areas (doors, furniture, accent walls) and the practicality of polyurethane in high areas (cornices, ceiling moldings). After painting in one color (white, gray), the material difference visually disappears, leaving a unified style.

Installing wooden skirting boards: precision cutting and joint sealing

Wooden skirting board is the final element that covers the joint between the floor and wall, giving the interior a finished look.How to Cut Wooden BaseboardHow to cut at a 45-degree angle so that the corners meet without gaps? This requires precision, patience, and the right tool.

Cutting internal corners: two planks meet

Internal corner (a room corner where two walls meet) is the most common. Each skirting board plank is cut at a 45-degree angle, with the cuts facing inward toward the corner. Place the first plank in the miter saw with the face side toward you, set the angle to 45 degrees left, and cut. Place the second plank with the face side toward you, set the angle to 45 degrees right, and cut. The cuts should be mirror images.

Place the planks against the corner (dry, without glue) — the joint should be tight, without gaps. If there is a gap, trim the cuts with a knife or sandpaper (remove 0.5-1 mm from the protruding side).

Cutting external corners: less common, more difficult

External corner (a protruding wall corner, bay window, column) — the planks are cut the opposite way: the cuts face outward. The saw angle is the same (45 degrees), but the cut direction is opposite. Practice on scraps, place against the corner, and check the joint tightness.

Fastening skirting boards: screws or glue?

Wooden skirting board is fastened with screws through the plank into the wall (not into the floor — the floor may shift during settling, causing the skirting to detach). Pre-drill holes in the skirting with a 3 mm drill bit (spaced 50-60 cm apart), place the skirting against the wall, drill the wall with a 6 mm bit through the holes in the skirting, insert wall plugs, and screw in. Sink the screw heads and fill with putty.

Alternative — liquid nails adhesive (for MDF skirting boards, lightweight ones). Apply adhesive to the back of the skirting (in a zigzag pattern), press against the wall, and hold for 1-2 minutes. The adhesive holds the skirting; screws are not needed. However, such skirting is difficult to remove (during future renovations, it may need to be broken).

Sealing gaps between skirting board and wall

If the wall is uneven, a gap forms between the skirting board and the wall (the skirting is straight, the wall is curved). Fill the gap with acrylic sealant: squeeze into the gap and smooth with a wet finger. The sealant fills irregularities, creates a smooth transition, and after painting, the gap becomes invisible.

Finishing: puttying, sanding, painting

Installation is complete, elements are in place, but the work is not yet finished. Finishing touches transform the raw structure into a completed decor.

Puttying holes and joints

Fill all nail and screw holes with acrylic putty. Squeeze putty into the hole (slightly overfilling), smooth with a putty knife flush with the surface. Dries in 2-4 hours. After drying, sand with 180-220 grit sandpaper (the putty will become perfectly smooth and flush with the decor).

If molding or skirting joints have small steps (due to different plank thicknesses, imprecise cutting), fill with acrylic sealant and smooth. After drying, lightly sand (if the sealant protrudes).

Priming before painting

If the decor is primed white (polyurethane elements are often sold pre-primed), you can paint immediately. If the decor is unpainted (solid wood elements), apply acrylic primer with a brush. Primer improves paint adhesion and reduces consumption (the wood absorbs less paint).

Painting: technique for an even coat

Paint the decor with acrylic paint (water-based, odorless, dries quickly). Use a 3-5 cm wide brush for moldings, skirting boards, overlays (the brush reaches into all recesses of the relief). For large smooth areas (walls between moldings) use a roller.

First coat of paint — base coat, may be uneven (primer may show through). Dries in 2-4 hours. Second coat — finish coat, applied after the first dries, creates an even coverage. Two coats are sufficient for white paint over white primer. If painting a dark color over a light base — a third coat may be needed.

Tip: paint the decor before installation (if possible). Painted molding and skirting planks are easier to install (no need to paint on the wall, risking staining the wall). After installation, only touch up the joints and puttied holes.

Protecting wood with oil or varnish

If leaving wooden decor natural (unpainted), protect it with oil or varnish. Oil (linseed, tung, special wood formulations) is applied with a brush or cloth in a thin layer, rubbed into the wood, and dries in 12-24 hours. Oil enhances the grain, makes it more contrasting, and protects against moisture and dirt. It does not create a film (wood breathes) but requires renewal every 3-5 years (wipe and apply a new layer).

Varnish (acrylic matte or semi-matte) creates a protective film that is fully waterproof. It is applied with a brush in 2-3 coats (each dries for 2-4 hours, with light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper between coats). Varnish is more durable than oil (10-15 years without renewal) but visually less natural (slight shine, film is noticeable to the touch).

Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them

Mistake 1: Uneven marking

Moldings are glued unevenly (line slopes), corners do not align. Reason: marking by eye, without a level. Solution: use a laser level or a long bubble level (80-120 cm), check horizontality every 1-2 meters.

Mistake 2: Inaccurate miter cuts

Joints in corners have gaps, moldings do not meet. Reason: inaccurate saw angle setting (not 45 degrees, but 44 or 46), board wobbling during cutting (cut is crooked). Solution: check the saw angle with a protractor, press the board firmly against the saw fence, practice on scraps.

Mistake 3: Excess glue

Glue squeezes out from under the molding, stains the wall, needs wiping (leaves streaks). Reason: glue layer is too thick. Solution: apply glue in a thin line (5-7 mm thick), not a continuous layer.

Mistake 4: Painting before filling joints

Painted moldings, then filled joints with putty — white putty stands out against the painted background. Reason: incorrect sequence. Solution: first installation, putty, sanding, priming, then painting (everything together, joints do not stand out).

Error 5: Rushing

Glued molding, did not wait for the glue to set, released — molding came off, fell. Reason: impatience. Solution: hold the molding pressed for 1-2 minutes (or secure with nails), do not rush.

Saving on professionals: how much does the work cost and is it worth doing it yourself

Cost of professional work

Installation of polyurethane moldings and cornices — 300-600 rubles per linear meter (depends on region, profile complexity). Installation of wooden baseboard — 400-700 rubles/m. Installation of carved overlays — 500-1500 rubles per element (depends on size). Painting decor — 200-400 rubles/m².

Example: room 5×6 meters, perimeter 22 meters. Needed: ceiling cornice (22 m), wall moldings (40 m), baseboard (22 m), carved overlays (16 pcs), painting.

Cost of work:

• Cornice: 22 m × 500 rubles/m = 11000 rubles

• Moldings: 40 m × 400 rubles/m = 16000 rubles

• Baseboard: 22 m × 500 rubles/m = 11000 rubles

• Overlays: 16 pcs × 800 rubles/pc = 12800 rubles

• Painting (decor area approximately 15 m²): 15 m² × 300 rubles/m² = 4500 rubles

Total labor: 55300 rubles.

Cost of materials (moldings, cornices, baseboard, overlays, glue, paint) — approximately 60000-70000 rubles. Total project with professionals: 115000-125000 rubles.

Cost of DIY project

Materials — same 60000-70000 rubles. Tools (if buying): miter saw (8000 rubles), glue gun (500 rubles), level (2000 rubles), brushes, spatulas (1000 rubles), miscellaneous (1500 rubles). Total tools: 13000 rubles (but they remain, can be used in the future).

Total DIY: 73000-83000 rubles (if buying tools) or 60000-70000 rubles (if renting tools or borrowing from friends).

Savings: 32000-52000 rubles (approximately 40% of labor cost).

Time: how long a DIY project will take

An experienced professional finishes a room in 2-3 days (installation, puttying, painting). A beginner — in 5-7 days (cuts slower, takes longer to figure things out, redoes more). But if working in free time (evenings, weekends) — it will stretch to 2-3 weeks.

Plus DIY — you can work at your own pace, without deadline pressure. Minus — it takes a long time, you get tired.

Quality: professionals vs. DIY

Professionals do it more evenly, faster, without mistakes (experience from hundreds of projects). A beginner may make flaws (small gaps in joints, uneven painting). But for a residential interior (not an exhibition hall), DIY quality is quite acceptable, especially if you approach it carefully and correct mistakes.

Verdict: is it worth doing it yourself?

If the budget is limited — definitely worth it (saving 30-50 thousand). If you have time, desire to learn, and aren't afraid of physical work — worth it (plus experience that will be useful in the future). If the budget allows, you have no time, and want a guaranteed result — hire professionals.

Compromise: do simple elements yourself (straight moldings, baseboards), entrust complex ones to professionals (carved overlays, ceiling rosettes, corners in non-standard places). Savings are less, but risks are reduced.

Frequently asked questions: answers for a confident start

Can polyurethane moldings be glued onto wallpaper?

Not advisable. The adhesive holds onto the wallpaper, but the wallpaper may peel off the wall under the weight of the molding (especially if the wallpaper is on a non-woven backing, which adheres weakly). It's better to remove the wallpaper in the areas where moldings will be installed (cut the wallpaper along the molding line, remove a strip), glue onto the bare wall, then re-adhere the wallpaper to the molding.

How to cut polyurethane moldings without a miter saw?

With a regular fine-toothed saw using a miter box. Or with a utility knife (for thin moldings up to 50 mm wide): make a deep cut with the knife along a ruler, break the molding along the cut, smooth the cut with sandpaper.

How to paint carved overlays so that paint doesn't accumulate in the recesses?

Use a brush with soft bristles, apply paint in a thin layer (better two thin layers than one thick one). After application, lightly dab the recesses with a dry brush (dry brush technique — removes excess paint from recesses). Or use spray paint (from a can) — spraying creates an even, thin layer without accumulation.

Do baseboards need to be removed when laying laminate flooring?

If the floor baseboard is already installed, it's better to remove it (unscrew the screws), lay the laminate (it should go under the baseboard with a 5-10 mm gap from the wall), then reinstall the baseboard. If not removed — the laminate will butt against the baseboard, leaving no gap (when expanding, the laminate will buckle).

How long does polyurethane adhesive take to dry?

Initial set (holds without support) — 15-30 minutes. Full drying (can be painted, loaded) — 24 hours. Don't rush to paint earlier (the adhesive is still soft, the molding may shift when touched by a brush).

Can liquid nails be used instead of special polyurethane adhesive?

Yes, liquid nails (universal construction adhesive) are suitable for polyurethane. But check the composition: it should not contain solvents (acetone, toluene — they dissolve polyurethane). Acrylic liquid nails are safe.

How to remove an old molding without damaging the wall?

Pry the molding with a putty knife or chisel (start from the edge), carefully peel it off the wall (the adhesive comes off in chunks). Scrape off remaining adhesive with a putty knife, sand the wall with sandpaper, fill holes with putty, prime. If the molding is glued on tightly (super glue, polyurethane adhesive) — it's easier to cut the molding into pieces and remove it in parts.

Conclusion: create decor yourself with STAVROS materials

Wooden decor elementsand polyurethane molding turn an ordinary room into a space with architecture, style, character. And you can create this decor yourself by following theinstructions for installing polyurethane molding, learningHow to Cut Wooden Baseboardwithout gaps, mastering the installation of carved overlays, and finishing. The savings are enormous (30-50% of the project cost), the experience is invaluable (skills will be useful in future renovations), and satisfaction from the result is maximum (did it yourself, with your own hands).

Company STAVROS — a leading Russian manufacturer of decorative interior elements, offering everything needed for DIY projects. STAVROS understands: not everyone can hire professionals, many want to do it themselves, save money, and learn. Therefore, STAVROS products are designed so that installation is accessible to beginners: precise dimensions (elements are calibrated, join without steps), ready for installation (primed, sanded), detailed instructions (on the website, blog, YouTube videos).

carved inlays from solid woodSTAVROS — oak, beech, ash, linden, sizes from miniature (50×50 mm) to large (300×600 mm), patterns from simple geometric to complex baroque. Overlay thickness 8-15 mm (easy to glue, doesn't overload the surface), back side smooth and sanded (maximum contact area with adhesive). Reliable packaging (cardboard boxes with cells, each overlay protected), careful delivery.

polyurethane moldingsSTAVROS — moldings, cornices, rosettes, consoles, pilasters, polyurethane density 300-350 kg/m³ (clear relief, no voids), white primer (ready for painting), precise dimensions (profile matches across planks of the same model with 0.5 mm accuracy — joints are perfect). Corner elements in stock (for those who don't want to cut at 45 degrees), flexible moldings (for curved walls, columns).

Wooden Skirting BoardsSTAVROS — solid oak, beech, pine, MDF with oak, ash veneer, height 60-150 mm, profiles from simple to complex classical. Plank length 2.0-2.5 meters (fewer joints per room), corner and connecting elements (inside corners, outside corners, end caps). Precise calibration (height and thickness are consistent along the entire plank length — joints without steps).

Mounting accessories — polyurethane adhesive (acrylic, 310 ml tubes, consumption: 1 tube per 8-10 m of molding), waterproof D3 PVA wood glue (500 ml, for wooden elements), white acrylic sealant (for sealing joints), wood filler (for filling holes in wood, colors: oak, beech, pine), primer, paint. All in one place, compatible, tested.

Instructions and video guides — on the STAVROS website in the blog section with detailed articles (molding installation instructions, how to cut baseboards, painting wooden decor), videos on YouTube (step-by-step installation, common mistakes, life hacks). Free consultations — call, write in the chat, describe your project, STAVROS managers will advise which elements to choose, how much to order, how to install.

Warranty — 5 years on wooden elements, 10 years on polyurethane molding. Return within 14 days if you change your mind or an element doesn’t fit (packaging preserved). Delivery across Russia — by courier in Moscow and St. Petersburg (1-3 days), by transport companies to regions (5-14 days).

Choosing STAVROS means choosing quality materials (tested by thousands of projects), a complete range (everything for finishing in one place), support at every stage (from selection to installation). Make wooden decor with your own hands, save on craftsmen, get satisfaction from the result created by your own hands. Materials and knowledge — from STAVROS, craftsmanship — from you!